Betula alba Bark Extract and Empetrum nigrum Fruit Juice, a Natural Alternative to Niacinamide for Skin Barrier Benefits.

The Scandinavian region is home to a unique biome with endemic plant species. The aim of this study was to explore this natural diversity and identify plant extracts providing positive skin barrier effects. Six plant extracts were identified as starting material. Following biochemical screening, two candidates outperformed the rest: Betula alba (BA) and Empetrum nigrum (EN). Quantitative PCR analysis showed that BA and EN upregulated barrier genes, when used individually and in combination. Betula alba increased AQP3 and OCLN protein expression, something niacinamide was incapable of. Additionally, the skin barrier was strengthened, evidenced by inhibition of KLK5 and hyaluronidase and showed strong antioxidant and anti-inflammatory activity through DPPH and COX2 inhibition, respectively. A first split-face clinical study was conducted using the combination of extracts versus placebo. There was a significantly better skin restructuring effect and corneocyte cohesion on the side treated with combined extracts. A second split-face clinical study assessed the combined extracts versus 3% niacinamide. Significant variations in skin hydration and TEWL were observed in favor of the extract treated side. In conclusion, we identified a natural alternative to niacinamide for improving skin barrier health, in Scandinavian plant extracts, which yield strong performance, but at a lower concentration.

A novel multifunctional skin care formulation with a unique blend of antipollution, brightening and antiaging active complexes.

BACKGROUND: High demand on anti-aging skin care encourage the improvement and development of more personalized formulations with additional benefits for general skin health and age associated skin signs. The skin aging physical and biological phenotypes manifest differently between diverse ethnic populations. A highly polluted environment can be viewed as an extrinsic factor accelerating the skin aging process. AIM: To develop a unique formula with active complexes, having multifunctional effects for anti-pollution, brightening and anti-aging/barrier strengthening purposes with confirmed activities in vitro and ex vivo skin models, suitable for polluted skin. METHODS: In vitro culture model with primary human skin cells, ex vivo studies with full-thickness human skin, melanocyte 3D coculture model, gene expression of epidermal and dermal genes, anti-glycation, proteasomal activity, melanin, and cytokine assays. RESULTS: In vitro and ex vivo studies clearly demonstrated that diglucosyl gallic acid (active A) and the formulation complex inhibited pollution mediated MMP1 protein, CYP1A1 gene expression, and IL-6 protein secretion, while caprylic/capric triglyceride, diacetyl boldine (active B) had anti-melanogenic effect in in vitro primary melanocyte monoculture and 3D spheroid model. Another active compound, acetyl dipeptide 1 cetyl ester (active D), significantly upregulated epidermal barrier genes (Aquaporin 3 [AQP3], Filaggrin [FLG], caspase 14, and keratin 10) in human primary keratinocytes. Interestingly, both acetyl dipeptide 1 cetyl ester (active D) and niacinamide (active C) improved dermal gene expression (fibrillin-1, Collagen type 1 alpha 1, Decorin, Lysyl oxidase-like 1) and, moreover, had significant anti-glycant and proteasomal promoter activity in human primary fibroblasts. CONCLUSION: Considering consumers need in heavily polluted areas, we developed a multipurpose formulation comprised of unique active complexes toward pollution, pollution induced inflammation, skin brightening, and antiaging concerns with beneficial results demonstrated by in vitro and ex vivo studies.