Energy balance at high altitude of 6,542 m.

Weight loss due to malnutrition and possibly intestinal malabsorption is a well-known phenomenon in high-altitude climbers. Up to approximately 5,000 m, energy balance may be attained and intestinal energy digestibility remains normal. To see whether 1) energy balance may also be attained at 6,542 m and, if not, 2) whether decreased energy digestibility would play a significant role in the energy deficit, energy intake (EI), energy expenditure, body composition, and energy digestibility of 10 subjects (4 women, 6 men; 27-44 yr) were assessed during a 21-day sojourn on the summit of Mt. Sajama, Bolivia (6,542 m). EI was measured during two 3-day intervals: EI1 (days 7-9) and EI2 (days 17-19). Total fecal energy loss during EI1 was calculated from fecal energy measured by bomb calorimetry. Average daily metabolic rate (ADMR) at altitude was measured in six subjects (2 women, 4 men) using doubly labeled water over a 10-day interval (days 9-19). Basal metabolic rate was measured before and after the expedition by respiratory gas analysis. Body composition was estimated from skinfolds and body mass before and during the altitude sojourn. Subjects were in negative energy balance throughout the observation period (EI1-ADMR = -2.9 +/- 1.8 MJ/day and EI2-ADMR = -2.3 +/- 1.8 MJ/day based on a gross energy digestibility of 95%). The activity level, expressed as ADMR to basal metabolic rate, was 1.56-2.39. The loss of fat mass (3.7 +/- 1.5 kg) represented 74 +/- 15% of the loss of body mass.(ABSTRACT TRUNCATED AT 250 WORDS)

Adrenergic status of humans during prolonged exposure to the altitude of 6,542 m.

Plasma norepinephrine (NE) concentration increases with altitude exposure while maximal heart rate (HR) and chronotropic response to isoproterenol (IP) are blunted. Downregulation of cardiac beta-adrenergic receptors (beta-AR) has been evoked to explain this phenomenon. Chronotropic response was studied at extreme altitude in 10 subjects (4 women, 6 men; aged 35 +/- 6 yr). Observations were made in normoxia (N) and after 1 (H1) and 3 (H3) wk at 6,542 m. Acclimatization was accomplished by gradual climbing from 4,000 to 6,542 m over 10 days. Plasma NE was obtained at rest and during submaximal exercise. Successive doses of IP (0.02, 0.04, and 0.06 microgram/kg-1.min-1) were infused for 5 min each. Density and affinity of lymphocyte beta 2-AR were also measured. Increase in HR for maximal dose of IP decreased from 57 +/- 12 to 34 +/- 7 and 37 +/- 10 min-1 in H1 and H3, respectively (P < 0.001 for both). IP dose for which HR rises by 25 min-1 (I25) increased from 27 +/- 5 in N to 42 +/- 10 and 43 +/- 17 ng.kg-1.min-1 in H1 and H3, respectively (P < 0.001 for both). Arterial O2 saturation at rest was 98 +/- 2% in N, 72 +/- 6% in H1 (P < 0.001), and 79 +/- 5% in H3 (P < 0.001). The chronotropic response was neither restored nor further attenuated after 3 wk at 6,542 m. Plasma NE levels at rest and during exercise were higher at 6,542 m than values obtained in previous studies at 4,350 and 4,800 m.(ABSTRACT TRUNCATED AT 250 WORDS)

Control of erythropoiesis in humans during prolonged exposure to the altitude of 6,542 m.

Altitude hypoxia induces an increase in erythropoiesis. Some of the factors involved in the control of altitude polycythemia were studied. Ten subjects (4 women, 6 men) were exposed for 3 wk to extreme altitude (6,542 m). Blood was withdrawn in normoxia (N) and after 1 wk (H1), 2 wk (H2), or 3 wk (H3) at 6,542 m for the measurement of serum erythropoietin (EPO), blood hemoglobin (Hb), hematocrit (Hct), intraerythrocyte folate (Fol), and plasma ferritin (Fer) concentrations. Renal blood flow (RBF) and absolute proximal reabsorption rate (APR) were measured by the p-aminohippuric acid and lithium clearance, respectively, in N and H2 conditions. O2 supply to the kidneys was calculated using RBF and arterial O2 content (CaO2). After an initial sharp increase in EPO, it decreased at H2 and H3. Hct and Hb increased from N to H1 and H2 and then unexpectedly decreased from H2 to H3. Mean corpuscular Hb content (MCHC = Hb/Hct) was lower in all H than in N conditions. Increase in EPO at H1 varied from 3- to 134-fold among individuals. Women showed a smaller increase in Hct and Hb and a greater decrease in MCHC. Two women showed a large increase in EPO without increase in Hb. Fol was not modified by altitude hypoxia. Fer showed a marked decrease in H1 and H3 compared with N. Hb was positively related to Fer in hypoxia. Iron intake in food was markedly decreased during the 2-wk ascent to 6,542 m. EPO was inversely related to CaO2 and positively related to APR.(ABSTRACT TRUNCATED AT 250 WORDS)

Use of a hypobaric chamber for pre-acclimatization before climbing Mount Everest.

Climbing Mount Everest needs an acclimatization period of 3 to 4 weeks between 3000 and 6000 m. In order to reduce this period of time spent in dangerous conditions, an experience of pre-acclimatization was performed with 5 elite alpinists (4 male, 1 female), aged 30 +/- 4 yrs (mean +/- SD), before their attempt to climb Mount Everest. Subjects first remained one week on Mont-Blanc (between 4350 and 4807 m), then spent a total of 38 hours in a hypobaric chamber (in 4 consecutive days) from 5000 to 8500 m standard altitude. Then, they flew to Kathmandu and reached 7800 m five days only after leaving the base camp. The pre-acclimatization period showed a 12% increase in hemoglobin concentration, and no change in ventilatory response to hypoxia. Arterial oxygen saturation at submaximal exercise in hypoxia (FIO2 = 0.115) increased from 75 +/- 4 to 82 +/- 3%, probably because of an efficient ventilatory acclimatization. On Mount Everest, the speed of ascent was very high (5600 m of altitude gain in 6 days), knowing that in conventional expeditions, 12 to 32 days are generally necessary to reach, safe, the same altitude. In conclusion, pre-acclimatization seems to have triggered efficient mechanisms which allowed climbers to save 1 to 3 weeks of time in mountain conditions.

MIBG scintigraphic assessment of cardiac adrenergic activity in response to altitude hypoxia.

High altitude hypoxia induces a decrease in the cardiac chronotropic function at maximal exercise or in response to isoproterenol infusion, suggesting an alteration in the cardiac sympathetic activation. Iodine-123 metaiodobenzylguanidine [( 123I]MIBG) was used to map scintigraphically the cardiac sympathetic neuronal function in six male subjects (aged 32 +/- 7 yr) after an exposure to high altitude that created hypoxic conditions. Results obtained just after return to sea level (RSL) were compared with the normal values obtained after 2 or 3 mo of normoxia (N). A static image was created as the sum of the 16-EKG gated images recorded for 10 min in the anterior view of the chest at 20, 60, 120, and 240 min after injection. Regions of interest were located over the heart (H), lungs (L), and mediastinum (M) regions. There was a significant decrease in the H/M and the L/M ratios in RSL compared to N condition. Plasma norepinephrine concentration was elevated during the stay at altitude but not significantly different in RSL compared to N. In conclusion, cardiac [123I]MIBG uptake is reduced after an exposure to altitude hypoxia, supporting the hypothesis of an hypoxia-induced reduction of adrenergic neurotransmitter reserve in the myocardium. Furthermore, the observed significant decrease in pulmonary MIBG uptake suggests an alteration of endothelial cell function after exposure to chronic hypoxia.

Reversal of hypoxia-induced decrease in human cardiac response to isoproterenol infusion.

A decrease in heart rate response to isoproterenol (IP) infusion has been previously described in humans exposed to acute (2-3 days) or chronic (21 days) exposure to altitude hypoxia (J. Appl. Physiol. 65: 1957-1961, 1988). To evaluate this cardiac response in subacute (8 days) hypoxia and to explore its reversal with restoration of normoxia, six subjects received an IP infusion under normoxia (condition N), after 8 days in altitude (4,350 m, condition H8), on the same day in altitude after inhalation of O2 restoring normoxic arterial O2 saturation (SaO2, condition HO), and 6-11 h (condition RN) and 4-5 mo (condition ND) after the return to sea level. Cardiac chronotropic response to IP, evaluated by the mean increase in heart rate from base value (delta HR, min-1), was lower in condition H8 [mean 30 +/- 13 (SD)] than in condition N (50 +/- 14, P less than 0.03); it was slightly higher in condition HO (38 +/- 14) or condition RN (42 +/- 15) than condition H8 but still significantly different from condition N (P less than 0.03), despite normal values of SaO2. delta HR in condition ND (55 +/- 10) returned to base N value. These findings confirm the hypothesis of a hypoxia-induced decrease in cardiac chronotropic function. Two possible mechanisms are suggested: an O2-dependent one, rapidly reversible with recent restoration of normoxia, and a more slowly reversible mechanism, probably a downregulation of the cardiac beta-receptors.