Instrumental evaluation of anti-aging effects of cosmetic formulations containing palmitoyl peptides, Silybum marianum seed oil, vitamin E and other functional ingredients on aged human skin.

Anti-aging cosmetics are widely used for improving signs of aged skin such as skin wrinkles, decreased elasticity, low dermal density and yellow skin tone. The present study evaluated the effects of cosmetic formulations, eye cream and facial cream, containing palmitoyl peptides, Silybum marianum (S. marianum) seed oil, vitamin E and other functional ingredients on the improvement of facial wrinkles, elasticity, dermal density and skin tone after 4 weeks period of application on aged human skin. Healthy volunteers (n=20) with aged skin were recruited to apply the test materials facially twice per day for 4 weeks. Skin wrinkles, elasticity, dermal density and skin tone were measured instrumentally for assessing the improvement of skin aging. All the measurements were conducted prior to the application of test materials and at 2 and 4 weeks of treatment. Crow's feet wrinkles were decreased 5.97% after 2 weeks of test material application and 14.07% after 4 weeks of application in comparison of pre-application. Skin elasticity was increased 6.81% after 2 weeks and 8.79% after 4 weeks. Dermal density was increased 16.74% after 2 weeks and 27.63% after 4 weeks. With the L* value indicating skin brightness and the a* value indicating erythema (redness), the results showed that brightness was increased 1.70% after 2 weeks and 2.14% after 4 weeks, and erythema was decreased 10.45% after 2 weeks and 22.39% after 4 weeks. Hence, the test materials appear to exert some degree of anti-aging effects on aged human skin. There were no abnormal skin responses from the participants during the trial period. We conclude that the facial and eye cream containing palmitoyl peptides and S. marianum seed oil, vitamin E and other ingredients have effects on the improvement of facial wrinkles, elasticity, dermal density and skin tone.

Biological effects of rutin on skin aging.

Rutin, a quercetin glycoside is a member of the bioflavonoid family which is known to possess antioxidant properties. In the present study, we aimed to confirm the anti­aging effects of rutin on human dermal fibroblasts (HDFs) and human skin. We examined the effects of rutin using a cell viability assay, senescence-associated-ß-galactosidase assay, reverse transcription-quantitative polymerase chain reaction, and by measuring reactive oxygen species (ROS) scavenging activity in vitro. To examine the effects of rutin in vivo, rutin­containing cream was applied to human skin. A double-blind clinical study was conducted in 40 subjects aged between 30-50 years and divided into control and experimental groups. The test material was applied for 4 weeks. After 2 and 4 weeks, dermal density, skin elasticity, the length and area of crow's feet, and number of under-eye wrinkles following the application of either the control or the rutin-containing cream were analyzed. Rutin increased the mRNA expression of collagen, type I, alpha 1 (COL1A1) and decreased the mRNA expression of matrix metallopeptidase 1 (MMP1) in HDFs. We verified that ROS scavenging activity was stimulated by rutin in a dose­dependent manner and we identified that rutin exerted protective effects under conditions of oxidative stress. Furthermore, rutin increased skin elasticity and decreased the length, area and number of wrinkles. The consequences of human aging are primarily visible on the skin, such as increased wrinkling, sagging and decreased elasticity. Overall, this study demonstrated the biological effects of rutin on ROS-induced skin aging.

Altered miRNA expression profiles are involved in the protective effects of troxerutin against ultraviolet B radiation in normal human dermal fibroblasts.

The aim of this study was to investigate the mechanisms by which troxerutin protects cells against ultraviolet B (UVB) radiation. First, we demonstrate that pre-treatment with troxerutin protects normal human dermal fibroblasts (nHDFs) against UVB-induced cytotoxicity. As shown by migration assay and DNA repair analysis, troxerutin increased cell migration and DNA repair activity in the nHDFs. Subsequently, we analyzed microRNA (miRNA) expression profiles in the nHDFs. miRNAs are 19- to 24-nucleotide (nt) non-coding RNA molecules that regulate the translation of target genes through RNA interference. In UVB-exposed cells, miRNAs act on crucial functions, such as apoptosis and cellular senescence. miRNA expression is significantly altered during the protective process induced by phytochemicals. Therefore, understanding changes that occur in miRNA expression profiles may help to elucidate the protective mechanisms of troxerutin. We identified 11 miRNAs that were significantly (>2-fold) upregulated and 12 that were significantly downregulated (>2-fold) following treatment of the nHDFs with troxerutin. In addition, we investigated the biological functions of these miRNAs through the prediction of miRNA targets and Gene Ontology analysis of the putative targets. Overall, our findings indicate that pre-treatment with troxerutin increases the viability of UVB-exposed nHDFs through the alteration of the miRNA expression profiles.

Involvement of microRNAs in epigallocatechin gallate-mediated UVB protection in human dermal fibroblasts.

The green tea polyphenol epigallocatechin-3-gallate (EGCG) is a potent anti-oxidant and anticancer compound. Recently, EGCG-mediated UVB photoprotection was reported in normal human dermal fibroblasts (NHDFs); however, the molecular mechanism underlying this process remains unknown. Thus, we investigated the EGCG-specific microRNAs (miRNAs) involved in the UVB protective response in NHDFs. WST-1 assays confirmed that low doses (<50 µM) of EGCG were non-cytotoxic and capable of recovering NHDF cell viability following UVB irradiation up to 83.7% compared to the control cells. Microarray analysis identified several miRNAs that were upregulated and downregulated significantly in this UVB protective response, with downregulated miRNAs outnumbering the upregulated ones. Bioinformatic studies, including miRNA target gene prediction and gene ontology analysis, revealed that the EGCG-specific miRNAs may control genes involved in transcription regulation and inhibition of apoptosis, but not MAPK activation, in NHDFs. Therefore, these results suggest that EGCG may serve as a potential natural photoprotective agent against UVB-mediated damage in NHDFs by altering specific miRNA expression.

Titrated extract of Centella asiatica provides a UVB protective effect by altering microRNA expression profiles in human dermal fibroblasts.

The titrated extract of Centella asiatica (TECA) is a reconstituted mixture comprising of asiatic acid, madecassic acid, asiaticoside and madecassoside, and is used as a therapeutic agent in wound healing and also as an anti-microbial, anticancer and anti-aging agent. Although these properties and the associated cell signaling pathways have been elucidated, the cellular mechanism of anti-photoaging upon ultraviolet (UV) exposure in normal human dermal fibroblasts (NHDFs) remains unknown. In this study, we investigated the photoprotective role of TECA via microRNA (miRNA) expression profiling analysis. Low dose of TECA did not exhibit toxicity and showed a protective effect against UVB irradiation in NDHFs. miRNA microarray experiments revealed that specific miRNAs were altered by TECA stimulation in UVB-irradiated NHDFs. Functional bioinformatic analysis showed that the putative target genes of the altered miRNAs were associated with the positive regulation of cell proliferation, anti-apoptosis, small GTPase- and Ras-mediated signal transduction and activation of MAPKK. Therefore, these results suggest that TECA may serve as a potential natural chemoprotective agent against UVB-mediated damage in NHDFs through changes in the expression of specific miRNAs.