Lipase-mediated alcoholysis for in situ production of ester bioaromas in licuri oil for cosmetic applications.

Bioaromas can be produced by lipases either through their hydrolytic or (trans)esterifying activities. Therefore, this work reports the development of a lipase-catalyzed biotransformed licuri oil, forming volatile ethyl esters with odor notes resembling tropical fruits. Ethyl octanoate formation was promoted when 7.0 % (m/v) Lipozyme 435® was used to convert a grain alcohol:licuri oil mixture (51:49, v/v) at 58ºC and 70 rpm for 6 hours. The biotransformed oil has shown antimicrobial activity against Staphylococcus hominis, S. epidermidis, and Corynebacterium xerosis, bacteria associated with bad skin odor. Finally, this biotransformed oil was used without further treatments (e.g., recovery or purification procedures) to prepare two cosmetic formulations (in a dosage of 1.5 %), aiming for both fragrant and deodorant activity.

Effects of 1,3-propanediol associated, or not, with butylene glycol and/or glycerol on skin hydration and skin barrier function.

OBJECTIVE: This study aimed to assess the effect of 1,3-propanediol at different concentrations (5%, 10%, or 15%), either applied alone or in combination with butylene glycol (BG) (5%) and/or glycerol (5%), on skin hydration and skin barrier function. The measurements were conducted using capacitance to determine skin hydration and trans epidermal water loss (TEWL) rates to evaluate skin barrier function. METHODS: A total of 30 healthy female subjects participated in the study. Capacitance and TEWL measurements were conducted at multiple time points, including before application and at 15 min, 2 and 8 h after the humectants were applied to the forearms of the subjects. All the subjects provided written informed consent. RESULTS: The 1,3-propanediol in all concentrations and in all combinations (with BG and/or glycerol) increased skin hydration and improved skin barrier function 15 min, 2 and 8 h after application. Glycerol increased the hydration performance of 1,3-propanediol. The application of 1,3-propanediol at a concentration of 15%, either alone or in combination with other humectants, reduced the TEWL to a greater extent than lower concentrations of 1,3-propanediol. Furthermore, the addition of glycerol to 1,3-propanediol 15% improved the skin barrier and reduced TEWL when compared with 1,3-propanediol alone and with the combination of 1,3-propanediol + BG. CONCLUSION: The humectants significantly improved skin hydration and reduced TEWL throughout the 8-h time course. The increase in 1,3-propanediol concentration, as well as its combination with glycerol, provided a greater benefit to the skin, improving both hydration and the skin barrier function.

OBJECTIF: Cette étude visait à évaluer l'effet sur l'hydratation de la peau et la fonction de barrière cutanée du 1,3-propanediol à différentes concentrations (5 %, 10 % ou 15 %), appliqué seul ou en association avec du butylène glycol (5 %) et/ou du glycérol (5 %). Les mesures ont été effectuées à l'aide de la capacitance pour déterminer l'hydratation de la peau et les taux de perte d'eau transépidermique (Trans Epidermal Water Loss, TEWL) pour évaluer la fonction de barrière cutanée. MÉTHODES: Au total, 30 sujets de sexe féminin en bonne santé ont participé à l'étude. Les mesures de la capacitance et de la TEWL ont été effectuées à plusieurs moments, y compris avant l'application, 15 minutes, 2 heures et 8 heures après l'application des produits humectant sur les avant-bras des sujets. Tous les sujets ont fourni un consentement éclairé écrit. RÉSULTATS: Le 1,3-propanediol, à toutes les concentrations et dans toutes les associations (avec le butylène glycol et/ou le glycérol), a augmenté l'hydratation de la peau et amélioré la fonction de barrière cutanée à 15 minutes, 2 heures et 8 heures après l'application. Le glycérol a augmenté les performances d'hydratation du 1,3-propanediol. L'application de 1,3-propanediol à une concentration de 15 %, seul ou en association avec d'autres produits humectant, a réduit la TEWL dans une plus grande mesure que des concentrations inférieures de 1,3-propanediol. En outre, l'ajout de glycérol au 1,3-propanediol 15 % a amélioré la barrière cutanée et réduit la TEWL par rapport au 1,3-propanediol seul et à l'association 1,3-propanediol + butylène glycol. CONCLUSION: Les produits humectant ont significativement amélioré l'hydratation de la peau et réduit la TEWL tout au long des 8 heures. L'augmentation de la concentration de 1,3-propanediol, ainsi que son association avec le glycérol, ont apporté un plus grand bénéfice à la peau, améliorant à la fois l'hydratation et la fonction de barrière cutanée.

Topical Application of Ascorbic Acid and its Derivatives: A Review Considering Clinical Trials.

BACKGROUND: The topical use of vitamin C has been explored for many decades due to its antioxidant potential, whitening action, and the essential role it plays in the synthesis and maintenance of collagen. As Ascorbic Acid (AA) is unstable, derivative molecules and stabilization strategies have been explored to facilitate its incorporation into dermatological products. Even though these molecules are already for sale, there is still a shortage of scientific data regarding efficacy studies of these assets, especially in vivo. OBJECTIVE: The purpose of this review was to investigate and discuss issues regarding the topical application of vitamin C and its most common derivatives, including the difficulties, biases, and prospects for future clinical studies to better elucidate its effects. METHODS: A literature review was carried out to select studies that evaluated the topical use of ascorbic acid and/or its derivatives. The studies which are "fully available", "in vivo" and "in vitro", were used as inclusion criteria. RESULTS: Due to the instability of Ascorbic Acid, it is essential to study derivative molecules that maintain or even improve their effectiveness in dermatological products. Despite this, the studies of these derivatives presented in the scientific literature are mostly in vitro. In recent years, it has been possible to observe an increase in in vivo efficacy tests, and this trend is expected to continue in the future. However, they present very different approaches and issues. CONCLUSION: Studies of stability, safety, adverse reactions, and especially in vivo efficacy studies with a relevant number of subjects and standardized parameters are essential for better elucidating the effects of the topical application of vitamin C derivatives in comparison to ascorbic acid formulations for the skin.

Perspectives of topical formulations for melasma.

Melasma is acquired hyperpigmentation that mainly affects the face, can cause negative changes in self-esteem, and mostly affects women. Treatment is difficult, and different drugs can be used in mono or combination therapy. In this article, we present a brief overview of melasma, how to evaluate it, and a synthesis of the most commonly used topical therapies and their indications, including sunscreens, pharmacological agents, and plant extracts. Hydroquinone (4%) in monotherapy or combined with corticosteroids (dexamethasone and fluocinolone acetonide) and retinoids (tretinoin); arbutin (1%); methimazole (5%); kojic (2%), azelaic (20%), and tranexamic (5%) acids are the pharmacological agents that stand out. Correct application of these substances determines a variable improvement in melasma but often causes adverse reactions such as erythema, itching, and burning at the application site. Vitamin C can contribute to the reduction of melasma and have little or no adverse effects while sunscreens are normally used as coadjuvant therapies. In conclusion, we have compiled specific topical therapies for treating melasma and discussed those that are the most used currently. We consider it important that prescribers and researchers evaluate the best cost-benefit ratio of topical therapeutic options and develop new formulations, enabling efficacy in the treatment with safety and comfort during application, through the reduction of adverse effects.

Neuromuscular Electrical Stimulation in Facial Aging: an Integrative Literature Review / Estimulación Eléctrica Neuromuscular en el Envejecimiento Facial: Revisión Integradora della Literatura / Estimulação Elétrica Neuromuscular no Envelhecimento Facial: uma Revisão Integrativa da Literatura

ABSTRACT Despite of being a natural physiological process, aging is considered a degenerative process with evident effects on aging skin, such as reduced elasticity, wrinkles, reduced facial fat and muscle tone, sagging, changes in facial contour, and sarcopenia on the face. These changes can generate social stigma, suffering, and psychological discomfort for the patient. Thus, this study aimed to evaluate the effectiveness of Neuromuscular Electrical Stimulation (NMES), a technique used in physical therapy for muscle training, in attenuating the signs of facial aging. For this purpose, a scientific survey of publications indexed on the Medline (PubMed), CINAHL, Embase, PEDro, Lilacs, ERIC, Scopus, Web of Science, and Google Scholar databases was conducted and, based on pre-established criteria, two relevant publications for the topic were selected for discussion. The scientific literature regarding the use of NMES to attenuate the signs of aging is still very scarce. The survey showed the need to discuss the current state of knowledge. Our results suggest that, theoretically, NMES could be a promising method to attenuate the signs of aging; however, there are still no conclusive results regarding the clinical effectiveness of using NMES in the facial muscles since few studies relate NMES to facial rejuvenation. More studies are needed, with greater methodological rigor and low level of bias, using precise techniques in the evaluation and allowing to interpret with greater scientific commitment of the physiological mechanism of the muscular stimulus and its interrelation with the integumentary system, proving its effectiveness in the improvement of skin appearance.

RESUMEN El envejecimiento es un proceso fisiológico natural, aunque se considera un proceso degenerativo. Sus efectos son evidentes en la piel envejecida, que presenta disminución de la elasticidad, grasa y tono muscular, así como arrugas, flacidez, cambios de contorno y sarcopenia. Estos cambios pueden generar un estigma social y malestar psicológico para el portador. En ese contexto, el objetivo de este estudio fue evaluar la efectividad del uso de la estimulación eléctrica neuromuscular (NMES), una técnica utilizada en Fisioterapia de entrenamiento muscular para atenuar los signos del envejecimiento facial. Para ello, se realizó un relevamiento de las publicaciones indexadas en las plataformas MEDLINE (PubMed), CINAHL, Embase, PEDro, LILACS, ERIC, Scopus, Web of Science y Google Scholar, y, con base en criterios preestablecidos, se seleccionaron dos publicaciones relevantes sobre el tema. La literatura científica sobre el uso de NMES en la atenuación de los signos del envejecimiento es aún escasa. La búsqueda reveló la necesidad de una discusión sobre el estado actual del conocimiento. Los resultados de esta revisión sugieren que la NMES puede ser un método prometedor de entrenamiento muscular cuando se aplica para atenuar los signos del envejecimiento. Sin embargo, todavía hay poca evidencia con respecto a la efectividad de NMES en los músculos faciales, ya que pocos estudios relacionan NMES con el rejuvenecimiento facial. Son necesarios estudios con mayor rigor metodológico para minimizar sesgos y el uso de técnicas de evaluación precisas, que permitan dilucidar el mecanismo fisiológico del estímulo muscular y su interrelación con el sistema tegumentario y que permitan probar la eficacia de la NMES en la mejora del aspecto de la piel del rostro.

RESUMO Embora seja um processo fisiológico natural, o envelhecimento é considerado degenerativo. Seus efeitos são evidentes na pele envelhecida, que apresenta redução de elasticidade, gordura e tônus muscular, assim como rugas, flacidez, alteração de contornos e sarcopenia. Tais mudanças podem gerar um estigma social e desconforto psicológico para o seu portador. Nesse contexto, objetivou-se avaliar a eficácia do uso da estimulação elétrica neuromuscular (EENM), uma técnica utilizada na Fisioterapia para o treinamento muscular, visando à atenuação dos sinais do envelhecimento facial. Para isso, foi realizado um levantamento de publicações indexadas nas plataformas MEDLINE (PubMed), CINAHL, Embase, PEDro, LILACS, ERIC, Scopus, Web of Science e Google Scholar e, a partir de critérios preestabelecidos, foram selecionadas duas publicações relevantes sobre o tema. A literatura científica sobre o uso da EENM na atenuação dos sinais do envelhecimento ainda é escassa. O levantamento revelou a necessidade de uma discussão a respeito do estado atual do conhecimento. Os resultados desta revisão sugerem que a EENM pode ser um método promissor de treinamento muscular quando aplicado à atenuação dos sinais de envelhecimento. Contudo, ainda há poucas evidências quanto à eficácia da EENM na musculatura da face, visto que poucos estudos relacionam a EENM ao rejuvenescimento facial. São necessários estudos com maior rigor metodológico, a fim de minimizar vieses, e utilização de técnicas precisas de avaliação, permitindo a elucidação do mecanismo fisiológico do estímulo muscular e sua inter-relação com o sistema tegumentar e possibilitando a comprovação da eficácia da EENM na melhoria da aparência da pele facial.

In vivo evaluation of topical ascorbic acid application on skin aging by 50 MHz ultrasound.

INTRODUCTION: Ascorbic acid (AA) is a powerful antioxidant capable of acting significantly both in the prevention and treatment of the skin aging process. One way to assess the in vivo efficacy of anti-aging treatments is by using the high-frequency ultrasound (HFUS) skin image analysis technique, a non-invasive approach that allows for a new level of evaluating the effectiveness of dermatological and cosmetic products. The aim of the present study was to assess the performance of a topical emulsion of liquid crystalline structures containing AA using the 50 MHz HFUS skin image analysis method. METHODS: Twenty-five healthy female participants between 35 and 60 years were included, all of whom randomly applied a placebo formulation and an AA-containing formulation to each forearm, once a day, for 30 days. HFUS measurements were performed before using the products (T0), 2 h later (T2h), and after 30 days of use (T30d). The analyzed parameters included total skin, dermal, and epidermal echogenicity; variation and mean thickness of total skin, the epidermis and dermis; and surface roughness. Statistical analyses were performed using the Friedman test, followed by Dunn's test for comparisons of multiple means (α = 0.05). RESULTS: A significant increase in total skin and dermal echogenicity was observed after topical AA application. CONCLUSION: Our findings suggest that collagen synthesis significantly increased after topical therapy with AA, which was responsible for the increment in dermal echogenicity. This study showed, through the HFUS technique, that the topical use of AA promoted dermal redensification after 30 days of application.

A review of alternative methods to the use of animals in safety evaluation of cosmetics.

Alternative methods to the use of animals in research have been a global trend, mainly after the publication of the 3R's principle (Replacement, Reduction, and Refinement), proposed by Russel and Burch. In the cosmetic sector, safety and efficacy assessments using animals have generated controversial debates. For this reason, in vitro research techniques are widely used to assess acute toxicity; corrosivity and irritation; skin sensitization; dermal and percutaneous absorption; repeated dose toxicity; reproductive toxicity; mutagenicity and genotoxicity; carcinogenicity; toxicokinetic studies; photo-induced toxicity; and human data. Although there are many methodologies described, validated, and widely used in the cosmetic area, the evaluation of the safety of cosmetic ingredients and products is still an expanding field. It needs global collaboration among regulatory agencies, universities, and industry, to meet several unmet needs in the fields of sensitization, carcinogenicity, systemic action, among other issues involving safety of users of cosmetic products. This review article will cover the currently most relevant in vitro models regarding irritation, corrosion, sensitization, mutagenicity, genotoxicity, and phototoxicity, to help to choose the most appropriate test for evaluating the safety and toxicity of cosmetic ingredients and products.

Effect of accelerated stability on the physical, chemical, and mechanical properties of experimental bleaching gels containing different bioadhesive polymers.

OBJECTIVE: To evaluate the physical-chemical (weight, pH, quantification of hydrogen peroxide) and mechanical (texture profile and rheology tests) properties of the experimental bleaching gel based on the bioadhesive polymer Aristoflex® AVC, after accelerated stability testing. MATERIALS AND METHODS: A total of 300 syringes of bleaching gels were divided into 5 groups (n = 60): Whiteness Perfect® 10%-FGM (WP); carbamide peroxide 10% with aristoflex (CPa); carbamide peroxide 10% with Carbopol (CPc); aristoflex thickener (A); and Carbopol thickener (C). According to the following requirements and time, the accelerated stability test was performed: in an incubator at 40 °C and 75% humidity per 1, 3, and 6 months, and baseline (refrigerator at 5 °C and 25% humidity). The variables were analyzed following the statistical tests: Two-way ANOVA and Tukey's test were applied to pH; weight data were analyzed using a mixed model for repeated measurements over time and the Tukey-Kramer test; one-way ANOVA and Tukey's test analyzed the rheology test; generalized linear models were used to quantify the peroxide amount and texture profile data. A significance level of 5% was considered. RESULTS: The experimental bleaches CPa and CPc had the highest pH values when compared to the others in 6 months. Thickeners A and C did not change the pH, weight, and active content over the accelerated stability times (p > 0.05). Furthermore, there was weight loss after 3 months of storage for CPa and CPc (p < 0.05). In the quantification of hydrogen peroxide, the WP group showed the highest values over time (p < 0.0001), only showing a significant loss after the 3rd month. Meanwhile, CPa and CPc showed a reduction in quantification from the 1st month. CONCLUSIONS: Temperature and humidity directly influenced the active content and properties of bleaching gels. In addition, the presence of components regardless of thickeners, such as stabilizers, in the commercial gel allowed for greater stability over time. CLINICAL RELEVANCE: The development of experimental bleaching gels for clinical use requires careful testing. Therefore, accelerated stability testing represents a valuable tool in the development and evaluation of cosmetic formulations.

Evaluation of skin using infrared thermal imaging for dermatology and aesthetic applications.

INTRODUCTION: The use of thermography in the medical field has been experiencing a renaissance due to advances in the infrared thermographic imaging technology, which improves thermographic equipment and promises cost saving and increased safety. Dermatology is one of the most promising fields of application among the medical areas with potential for the use of thermography. OBJECTIVE: To review the findings on this subject and to describe the use of such technique for dermatology and aesthetic applications. METHODS: A bibliographic survey was carried out, selecting relevant publications and guidelines, focused on monitoring medical diagnostic applications and benefits of thermography for dermatology, inflammatory skin diseases, and aesthetic applications. RESULTS: Inflammatory skin diseases lead to changes of the IRT image. A quantification of treatment effects and monitoring changes on skin can be possible by repeated measurements over time. CONCLUSION: Infrared imaging is a noninvasive, powerful tool in the diagnosis and clinical management of skin conditions and monitoring of aesthetic procedures.

Skin occlusive performance: Sustainable alternatives for petrolatum in skincare formulations.

BACKGROUND: The emollients are important ingredients used in skincare formulations that can act as moisturizing agents through their occlusive potential, preventing skin water loss. Consumer interest in natural and sustainable products has grown considerably in the last few years, requiring efforts from the cosmetic industry to design products with raw materials of natural, organic, and sustainable origin. Thus, it is essential to improve the knowledge about the behavior of cosmetic raw materials that can be used as sustainable alternatives to synthetic ingredients. AIM: This work aimed to evaluate the occlusive performance of different vegetable oils used as emollients in skincare cosmetics, through comparative analysis with petrolatum, a synthetic emollient with a high occlusive skin potential. METHOD: The study included 80 healthy female adult volunteers. TEWL measurements were performed before and after 15 min, 2 and 6 h of emollients application on the forearms of the research participants. All research participants provided written informed consent. RESULTS: The results obtained showed that the vegetable oils were effective in providing an occlusive effect on the skin. When compared to the petrolatum, the vegetable oils did not provide a high immediate skin occlusion effect. However, most of them showed a skin occlusion performance comparable to petrolatum throughout the 6 h time course. CONCLUSION: Vegetable oils can be used as a sustainable alternative to synthetic emollients, and they are promising in replacing petrolatum in skincare formulations with respect to the occlusion effect of the skin. The vegetable oils did not provide a high immediate skin occlusion effect (15 min post-application) as the petrolatum, which is known to have increased occlusion properties. However, most of them showed a skin occlusion performance comparable to petrolatum throughout the 6-hour time course.

A review of alternative methods to the use of animals in safety evaluation of cosmetics

ABSTRACT Alternative methods to the use of animals in research have been a global trend, mainly after the publication of the 3R's principle (Replacement, Reduction, and Refinement), proposed by Russel and Burch. In the cosmetic sector, safety and efficacy assessments using animals have generated controversial debates. For this reason, in vitro research techniques are widely used to assess acute toxicity; corrosivity and irritation; skin sensitization; dermal and percutaneous absorption; repeated dose toxicity; reproductive toxicity; mutagenicity and genotoxicity; carcinogenicity; toxicokinetic studies; photo-induced toxicity; and human data. Although there are many methodologies described, validated, and widely used in the cosmetic area, the evaluation of the safety of cosmetic ingredients and products is still an expanding field. It needs global collaboration among regulatory agencies, universities, and industry, to meet several unmet needs in the fields of sensitization, carcinogenicity, systemic action, among other issues involving safety of users of cosmetic products. This review article will cover the currently most relevant in vitro models regarding irritation, corrosion, sensitization, mutagenicity, genotoxicity, and phototoxicity, to help to choose the most appropriate test for evaluating the safety and toxicity of cosmetic ingredients and products.

Current status of whitening agents and enzymes in Dentistry

Abstract This study reviews the knowledge on the use of conventional dental whitening and the use of enzymes as a new approach in bleaching. A review of the literature was based on academic articles and on patents related to the use of enzymes in dental bleaching. Tooth whitening techniques used nowadays are well reported in the literature, and its mechanism of action consists of an oxidoreduction reaction with the release of free radicals. The great instability of radicals, when in contact with the tissues, promotes oxidation and reduction in the size of the pigment chains incorporated into them. These pigments are eventually broken down into smaller and smaller molecular chains and end up being diffused from the dental structure. In turn, the use of enzymes aimed at tooth whitening can be a less harmful alternative to the tooth because their specificity regarding the substrate makes them of great interest to perform specific reactions, reducing collateral effects. The use of proteolytic enzymes and oxidoreductases paired with the application of peroxides, can be a promising alternative for obtaining even better results in the dental bleaching process.

Effectiveness of sunscreens and factors influencing sun protection: a review

Abstract The effectiveness of sun protection depends directly on the photo-protective product employed, the way it is used and the amount applied. Many studies report that sunscreens are often applied incorrectly, at amounts much lower than those recommended for the sun protection factor (SPF) specified on the label. When not used properly, the effectiveness of the product against sun exposure damage is reduced. Currently, sunscreens are available in a variety of different formulations and types, such as stick (bar), aerosol, cream, lotion, oil, tanning formulations and makeup. However, developing an effective stable photo-protective formula that can be correctly applied regardless of type poses a challenge, as effectiveness is dependent on several factors. Factors influencing effectiveness include sun exposure conditions (direct or indirect), level of protection (SPF), amount of product applied, maximum exposure period before reapplication, product type (spray, lotion, etc.), layer thickness required, coverage, and ability to spread and permeate into the skin. Studies comparing the effectiveness of different forms of sunscreens, the amount of product applied by consumers and SPF and UVA protection determined by validated methodologies, are lacking. Therefore, the objective of this study was to review the available literature on the topic and discuss the effectiveness of sunscreen formulations and factors influencing sun protection. This review was carried out on the scientific databases MEDLINE, PubMed and Scielo. Of the many publications retrieved, thirty-nine articles most relevant for this review were selected.

High-frequency ultrasound as a scientific tool for skin imaging analysis.

Ultrasonic imaging is one of the most important diagnostic tools in clinical medicine due to its cost, availability and good correlation with pathological results. High-frequency ultrasound (HFUS) is a technique used in skin science that has been little explored, especially in comparison with other sites and imaging techniques. HFUS shows real-time images of the skin layers, appendages and skin lesions in vivo and can significantly contribute to advances in skin science. This review summarizes the potential applications of HFUS in dermatology and cosmetology, with a focus on quantitative tools that can be used to assess various skin conditions. Our findings showed that HFUS imaging is a reproducible and powerful tool for the diagnosis, clinical management and therapy monitoring of skin conditions. It is also a helpful tool for assessing the performance of dermatological products. This technique may eventually become essential for evaluating the performance of dermatological and cosmetic products.

Characterization of skin aging through high-frequency ultrasound imaging as a technique for evaluating the effectiveness of anti-aging products and procedures: A review.

INTRODUCTION: High-frequency ultrasound skin imaging analysis (HFUS) is a non-invasive technique that allows a unique approach to the analysis of skin aging, as well as in evaluating the effectiveness of dermatological and cosmetic products, especially for skin rejuvenation. OBJECTIVE: To describe the impact of skin aging and different anti-aging strategies from the perspective of high-frequency ultrasound. METHODS: A bibliographic survey was carried out, selecting relevant articles that evaluated the characterization of the skin features from different points of view such as gender (male and female), age (young skin and mature skin), and ethnicity, in addition to individual variations between body regions and daily variations. RESULTS: Some studies also evaluated the impact of cosmetic treatments and esthetic procedures in the skin. Parameters such as dermal thickness, echogenicity, skin texture, and subepidermal low-echogenic band (SLEB) were analyzed. It can be concluded that there is a trend, although not unanimous in the consequences of aging on the skin, being different between men and women, plus the individual nuances resulted from each one's lifestyle and exposure to the sun. CONCLUSION: As for the technique, it is concluded that high-frequency ultrasound is an important evaluative alternative for dermatological studies and the effectiveness of anti-aging products and treatments.

Skin effect of facial cleansing combined with an electric sonic device.

BACKGROUND: New technologies, such as sonic devices, have been developed to optimize the skin cleansing process and improve its efficiency. To evaluate the effectiveness of these cosmetic procedures, skin bioengineering is an objective method to assess the biophysical parameters of the skin. AIMS: This study aimed to assess the effect of facial cleansing on the physiological properties of the skin by comparing a cleansing process with cosmetic product applied manually to cleansing with cosmetic product associated with the use of an electric sonic device. PATIENTS/METHODS: A gentle skin cleanser was applied to the entire face of 12 subjects; the sonic device was used on one half of the face and the manual process was performed on the other half. Instrumental skin analyses included sebummetry, corneometry, transepidermal water loss (TEWL), infrared thermography, and high-frequency ultrasound and were measured before and up to 90 min after cleansing. Results were compared using two-way ANOVA and Friedman tests. RESULTS: Data obtained from the statistical analysis of sebummetry, TEWL, thermography, and ultrasound parameters did not show any significant difference. When assessing the corneometry parameters, a significant reduction in hydration values (17.19%) was observed in the manual cleansing area, while the values remained similar to baseline values in the area where the sonic device was used. CONCLUSION: The cleansing process with a sonic device did not cause a significant hydration reduction, suggesting better preservation of skin homeostasis when compared to manual cleansing.

Effect of in-office bleaching gels with calcium or fluoride on color, roughness, and enamel microhardness.

BACKGROUND: Commercial bleaching gels with remineralizing agents were developed to reduce the adverse effects of dental bleaching. The present study evaluated the effects on teeth of in-office bleaching gels containing 35-40% hydrogen peroxide (HP) with Calcium (Ca) or Fluoride (F). MATERIAL AND METHODS: Bovine enamel/dentin blocks (4x4x2.5 mm) were randomly divided into the following groups (n=12): no treatment (control); 35% HP (Whiteness HP, FGM); 35% HP with Ca (Whiteness HP Blue, FGM); 40% HP with F (Opalescence Boost, Ultradent). The specimens were analyzed for color (ΔL*, Δa*, Δb*, and ΔE), roughness (Ra), and Knoop microhardness (KHN). The color and KHN data were submitted to ANOVA and Tukey's test, while Ra values were analyzed using mixed models for repeated measures and Tukey-Kramer's test (α=0.05). RESULTS: The bleached groups did not exhibit statistical differences among them for color. For roughness, 35% HP provided a slight increase of Ra, which was statistically different from the control. For microhardness, 35% HP and 40% HP with F presented KHN values that were statistically lower from the control, while the 35% HP with Ca did not statistically differ from the control. CONCLUSIONS: The presence of Ca or F in bleaching gels did not interfere with bleaching efficacy. However, only the enamel exposed to the bleaching gel containing Ca obtained microhardness values similar to unbleached enamel. Key words:Hydrogen peroxide, tooth bleaching, tooth bleaching agents, laboratory research.

Vitamin C: One compound, several uses. Advances for delivery, efficiency and stability.

Vitamin C (Vit C) is a potent antioxidant with several applications in the cosmetic and pharmaceutical fields. However, the biggest challenge in the utilization of Vit C is to maintain its stability and improve its delivery to the active site. Several strategies have been developed such as: controlling the oxygen levels during formulation and storage, low pH, reduction of water content in the formulation and the addition of preservative agents. Additionally, the utilization of derivatives of Vit C and the development of micro and nanoencapsulated delivery systems have been highlighted. In this article, the multiple applications and mechanisms of action of vitamin C will be reviewed and discussed, as well as the new possibilities of delivery and improvement of stability.