Topical ceramides neither enhance UVB-induced apoptosis in normal human keratinocytes nor affect viability in UVB-irradiated reconstructed human epidermis.

Ceramides are the major lipid of lamellar sheets present in intercellular spaces of the stratum corneum contributing to epidermal barrier properties. Therefore, ceramides and their analogues have been studied for barrier enhancing and water-holding properties for decades. In vitro studies have indicated cytotoxic potential for cell-permeable ceramides thereby raising the question whether topical ceramide application might contribute to UVB-induced apoptosis. Phytosphingosine, N-hexanoyl-phytosphingosine and N-stearoylphytosphingosine (ceramide III) in concentrations ≤5 µm have been used for co-stimulation with low (160 J/m(2) ) or high (600 J/m(2) ) UVB doses in subconfluent basal and confluent differentiating keratinocytes. Significantly, increased caspase-3 activity was observed in basal keratinocytes irradiated with 600 J/m(2) UVB and in differentiating keratinocytes with both UVB doses. Co-stimulation with the named ceramides did not further increase (i) caspase-3 activity and (ii) nucleosomal fragmentation in differentiating keratinocytes. Moreover, co-stimulation with 1-mm ceramides did not further affect viability/lactate dehydrogenase release in UVB-irradiated reconstructed human epidermis corroborating the safety of these ceramides.

Efficacy of cream-based novel formulations of hyaluronic acid of different molecular weights in anti-wrinkle treatment.

BACKGROUND: Due to its strong water-binding potential, hyaluronic acid (HA) is a well-known active ingredient for cosmetic applications. Native HA is proposed to help the skin to retain and maintain elasticity, turgor and moisture. OBJECTIVE: To observe the efficacy of topical application of 0.1% hyaluronan formulations of different molecular weights (MW) (50, 130, 300, 800 and 2000 kDa, respectively) in the periocular area as anti-wrinkle treatment. MATERIAL AND METHODS: Seventy-six female subjects between 30 and 60 years of age with clinical signs of periocular wrinkles applied one of the formulations twice-daily to the area of interest in a randomized fashion for 60 days. Around the other eye, a vehicle control cream was applied. Measurements of skin hydration and skin elasticity were performed before treatment, 30 and 60 days thereafter. At similar time points negative replicas were taken and evaluated by semi-automated morphometry. RESULTS: All HA-based creams utilized in this study demonstrated a significant improvement in skin hydration and overall elasticity values (R2) when compared to placebo. Measurements of wrinkle depth using mean roughness (Ra) and maximum roughness (Rz) values revealed significant improvement in the 130 and the 50 kDa HA group after 60 days of treatment compared to placebo-treated area. CONCLUSION: Topical application of all 0.1% HA formulations used in this study led to significant improvement in skin hydration and elasticity. Application of low-molecular-weight (LMW) HA was associated with significant reduction of wrinkle depth, which may be due to better penetration abilities of LMW HA.

Facial skin-lightening benefits of the tetrapeptide Pro-Lys-Glu-Lys on subjects with skin types V-VI living in South Africa.

BACKGROUND: Irregular skin pigmentation may be a substantial contributor to the signs of aging and to a person's lack of psychological well-being. Although a large number of skin-lightening agents are available, the opportunity exists to identify more efficacious agents, agents that target alternative biological mechanisms. AIMS: To provide clinical evidence of the skin-lightening effect of the tetrapeptide, Pro-Lys-Glu-Lys (PKEK), on subjects with skin types V-VI living in South Africa. METHODS: Pro-Lys-Glu-Lys was evaluated in a double-blind and vehicle-controlled clinical study using expert grading of digital images by comparing its effects in subjects with skin types V-VI suffering from facial melasma and postinflammatory hyperpigmentation. RESULTS: This study demonstrated the efficacy of PKEK on subjects with skin types V-VI. On comparing the two treatments, the skin-lightening peptide-containing formulation was significantly superior to the vehicle at 12 weeks on overall appearance (P < 0.05) and evenness of skin tone (P < 0.01). CONCLUSIONS: The tetrapeptide, PKEK, has proven skin-lightening benefits on skin discoloration from melasma and postinflammatory hyperpigmentation. These studies have been conducted on subjects with skin types V-VI living in South Africa, but we believe this technology to be suitable for all racial groups.

Bioactive tetrapeptide GEKG boosts extracellular matrix formation: in vitro and in vivo molecular and clinical proof.

The 'matrikine' concept claims that processing of the precursors for collagen results in the formation of peptides such as KTTKS which in turn augments extracellular matrix (ECM) production. In the present study, we show the development of an anti-ageing active from an in silico approach by molecular design resulting in the tetrapeptide GEKG derived from ECM proteins. The efficacy of the peptide to significantly induce collagen production of the protein level and mRNA level has been demonstrated in vitro in human dermal fibroblasts and in vivo in a double-blind, randomized, placebo-controlled study enroling 10 volunteers with an average age of 48.2 years. The effect of GEKG on facial wrinkles was studied in 30 volunteers using state of the art fringe projection, which allows determination of surface roughness in three-dimensions. Here, only GEKG but not the placebo was able to significantly decrease skin roughness as a measure for wrinkles.

Arrangement of ceramide [EOS] in a stratum corneum lipid model matrix: new aspects revealed by neutron diffraction studies.

The lipid matrix in stratum corneum (SC) plays a key role in the barrier function of the mammalian skin. The major lipids are ceramides (CER), cholesterol (CHOL) and free fatty acids (FFA). Especially the unique-structured omega-acylceramide CER[EOS] is regarded to be essential for skin barrier properties by inducing the formation of a long-periodicity phase of 130 angstroms (LPP). In the present study, the arrangement of CER[EOS], either mixed with CER[AP] and CHOL or with CER[AP], CHOL and palmitic acid (PA), inside a SC lipid model membrane has been studied for the first time by neutron diffraction. For a mixed CER[EOS]/CER[AP]/CHOL membrane in a partly dehydrated state, the internal membrane nanostructure, i.e. the neutron scattering length density profile in the direction normal to the surface, was obtained by Fourier synthesis from the experimental diffraction patterns. The membrane repeat distance is equal to that of the formerly used SC lipid model system composed of CER[AP]/CHOL/PA/ChS. By comparing both the neutron scattering length density profiles, a possible arrangement of synthetic long-chain CER[EOS] molecules inside a SC lipid model matrix is suggested. The analysis of the internal membrane nanostructure implies that one CER[EOS] molecule penetrates from one membrane layer into an adjacent layer. A 130 angstroms periodicity phase could not be observed under experimental conditions, either in CER/CHOL mixtures or in CER/CHOL/FFA mixture. CER[EOS] can be arranged inside a phase with a repeat unit of 45.2 angstroms which is predominately formed by short-chain CER[AP] with distinct polarity.