ABSTRACT
Human hair is a biopolymer constituted mainly of keratin intermediate filaments, lipids, pigments and water. Cosmetic treatments usually interact with the hair at the molecular level, inducing changes in its components and modifying the physicochemical and mechanical properties of the fibers. Here, the effect of acid straightening on the morphology and ultrastructure of Caucasian hair was investigated by a group of complementary experimental methods: wide-, small- and ultra-small-angle X-ray scattering; high-resolution 3D X-ray microscopy; quasi-elastic neutron scattering and inelastic neutron scattering; thermogravimetry-mass spectrometry; and differential scanning calorimetry (DSC). X-ray diffraction patterns showed that acid straightening associated with a flat iron (â¼180°C) changed the cortex of the fiber, shown by denaturation of the intermediate filaments (measured by DSC). The increase in the spacing of the lipid layers and the observation of the dehydration behavior of the fiber provided indications that water may be confined between these layers, while neutron spectroscopy showed alterations in the vibration mode of the CH2 groups of the lipids and an increase of the proton (H+) mobility in the hair structure. The latter may be associated with the extremely low pH of the formulation (pH ≃ 1). Additionally, this investigation showed that bleached hair (one-time bleached) is more damaged by the action of acid straightening than virgin hair, which was shown by a threefold increase in the percentage of total porosity of the tresses. The obtained results demonstrate that the investigation approach proposed here can provide very important thermodynamic and structural information on induced changes of hair structure, and certainly can be applied for the evaluation of the action mode and efficiency of cosmetic treatments.
ABSTRACT
An analytical method based on capillary electrophoresis (CE) with a partially aqueous electrolyte system was developed to enable the free fatty acids of Brazil nut oil to be identified in cosmetic formulations. In this study, a gel cream formulation was developed and its oil phase was extracted with a mixture of chloroform-methanol-water (1:2:0.8 v/v/v). The chloroform layer was saponified with a methanolic solution of NaOH (0.5 mol L-1) at 75-80 °C for 25 minutes. Experiments were carried out on a Beckman PACE/MDQ CE system (Fullerton, CA, USA) equipped with an on-column, diode-array detection system set at 254 nm and at 25ºC. The electrolyte consisted of 12.5 mmol L-1 sodium tetraborate buffer pH 7.0, 12.5 mmol L-1 polyoxyethylene 23-lauryl ether, 7.5 mmol L-1 sodium dodecylbenzenesulfonate (used as chromophore for indirect UV detection) and acetonitrile (35% v/v). The proposed method allowed the separation and identification of the fatty acids of Brazil nut oil in a cosmetic gel cream, as well as enabling possible interference by the oily phase components in the formulation to be identified.
Um método de análise por eletroforese capilar com sistema de eletrólito parcialmente aquoso foi desenvolvido para identificar os ácidos graxos livres do óleo de Castanha do Brasil em formulações cosméticas. No presente trabalho foi desenvolvida uma formulação cosmética (gel creme) cuja fase oleosa foi extraída com uma mistura de clorofórmio-metanol-água (1:2:0.8 v/v/v). A camada de clorofórmio, foi saponificada com solução de NaOH em metanol (0,5 mol L-1) a 75-80 °C durante 25 minutos. Os experimentos foram realizados em sistema de eletroforese capilar Beckman PACE/MDQ (Fullerton, CA, USA), com detecção de arranjo de diodos a 254 nm e a 25 ºC. O eletrólito utilizado foi 12,5 mmol L-1 de tetraborato de sódio tampão a pH 7,0, 12,5 mmol L-1 de éter de polioxietileno 23-lauril, 7,5 mmol L-1 de dodecilbenzenosulfonato de sódio (utilizado como agente cromóforo para detecção UV indireta) e acetonitrila (35% v/v). O método proposto permitiu a separação e a identificação dos ácidos graxos do óleo de Castanha do Brasil em formulações cosméticas, bem como possibilitou a identificação de interferências presentes na fase oleosa da formulação.
Subject(s)
Cosmetics , Electrophoresis, Capillary , Fatty AcidsABSTRACT
A rapid HPLC method was developed for the assay of tocopheryl acetate and ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate in cosmetic formulations. The validated method was applied for quantitative determination of these vitamins in simulated emulsion formulation. Samples were analysed directly on a RP-18 reverse phase column with UV detection at 222 nm. A mixture of methanol and isopropanol (25 : 75 v/v) was used as mobile phase. The retention time of tocopheryl acetate and ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate were 3.0 min and 5.9 min, respectively. Recovery was between 95% and 104%. In addition, the excipients did not interfere in the analysis. The method is simple, reproducible, selective and is suitable for routine analyses of commercial products.
