ABSTRACT
BACKGROUND: Mechanisms involved in hair metabolism are diverse, and the availability of ingredients that normalize dysfunctions or mitigate the effects of extrinsic stress suffered daily is greatly desired by consumers to improve the aesthetic appearance of hair. AIMS: In this work, we carried out a preclinical exploratory approach to evaluate the effects of a complex of nanoencapsulated active ingredients (AcPi), as well as a cosmetic formulation containing AcPi (ShPi and HtPi) in mechanisms involving hair loss and follicular aging. METHODS: Human hair follicle dermal papilla cells and human scalp culture were treated with AcPi, ShPi, or HtPi and stimulated with UV radiation or testosterone for further measurement of mitochondrial biogenesis, reactive oxygen species (ROS), ß-catenin, dyhidrotestosterone (DHT), collagen XVIIα1 (COL17A1), and cutaneous permeation. RESULTS: Our results demonstrated that AcPi prevents oxidative stress and balances mitochondial activity disturbed by exposure to UV radiation. AcPi also promoted an enrichment of WNT/ß-catenin signaling pathway, stimulating hair growth, and lengthening the anagen phase of hair cycle. ShPi and HtPi were able to prevent hair aging, minimizing the excessive degradation of COL17A1 in hair follicle exposed to UV radiation, in addition to controlling androgenic metabolism by reducing DHT production. CONCLUSION: The integral effects of AcPi have not been completely elucidated; however, these results, associated with clinical evidences, allow us to infer that this ingredient prevents follicular aging, miniaturization, and consequently hair loss by mechanisms involving energetic homeostasis maintenance, antioxidant, and anti-androgenic actions.
