Glycan distribution and density in native skin's stratum corneum.

BACKGROUND: The glycosylation of proteins on the surface of corneocytes is believed to play an important role in cellular adhesion in the stratum corneum (SC) of human skin. Mapping with accuracy the localization of glycans on the surface of corneocytes through traditional methods of immunohistochemistry and electron microscopy remains a challenging task as both approaches lack enough resolution or need to be performed in high vacuum conditions. MATERIALS AND METHODS: We used an advanced mode of atomic force microscope (AFM), with simultaneous topography and recognition imaging to investigate the distribution of glycans on native (no chemical preparation) stripped samples of human SC. The AFM cantilever tips were functionalized with anti-heparan sulfate antibody and the lectin wheat germ agglutinin (WGA) which binds specifically to N-acetyl glucosamine and sialic acid. RESULTS: From the recognition imaging, we observed the presence of the sulfated glycosaminoglycan, heparan sulfate, and the glycans recognized by WGA on the surface of SC corneocytes in their native state. These glycans were found associated with bead-like domains which represent corneodesmosomes in the SC layers. Glycan density was calculated to be ~1200 molecules/µm2 in lower layers of SC compared to an important decrease, (~106 molecules/µm2 ) closer to the surface due probably to corneodesmosome degradation. CONCLUSION: Glycan spatial distribution and degradation is first observed on the surface of SC in native conditions and at high resolution. The method used can be extended to precisely localize the presence of other macromolecules on the surface of skin or other tissues where the maintenance of its native state is required.

Surfactant-polymer interactions: molecular architecture does matter.

Polymer-surfactant mixtures are found in many industrial formulations, and hence there is a significant interest in understanding, at a molecular level, how the self-assembly of surfactant is affected by oppositely-charged polyelectrolytes (PEs). We use self-consistent field modeling and show that the modes of interaction of PEs strongly depend on the architecture of the PE on the segmental level. Hydrophilic cationic PEs with their charge proximal to the linear backbone are expected to bind electrostatically to the outsides of the coronas of the spherical micelles of anionic surfactants, such as sodium laureth sulphate (SLES). As a result, the surfactant aggregation number increases, but at the same time the colloidal stability deteriorates, due to bridging of the PEs between micelles. PEs with their charge somewhat displaced from the backbone by way of short hydrophobic spacers, are expected to be present inside a micelle at the core-corona boundary. In this case the aggregation number decreases, yet the colloidal stability is retained. Hence, SLES tends to remove hydrophilic PEs from an aqueous solution, whereas it solubilizes more hydrophobic ones. The binding isotherm shows that the uptake of PEs remains typically below charge compensation and in this case the spherical micelle topology remains the preferred state.

Chronological ageing of human hair keratin fibres.

Examination of very long hair (length > 2.4 m) using a large range of evaluation methods including physical, chemical, biochemical and microscopic techniques has enabled to attain a detailed understanding of natural ageing of human hair keratin fibres. Scrutinizing hair that has undergone little or no oxidative aggression--because of the absence of action of chemical agents such as bleaching or dyeing--from the root to the tip shows the deterioration process, which gradually takes place from the outside to the inside of the hair shaft: first, a progressive abrasion of the cuticle, whilst the cortex structure remains unaltered, is evidenced along a length of roughly 1 m onwards together with constant shine, hydrophobicity and friction characteristics. Further along the fibre, a significant damage to cuticle scales occurs, which correlates well with ceramides and 18-Methyl Eicosanoic Acid (18-MEA) decline, and progressive decrease in keratin-associated protein content. Most physical descriptors of mechanical and optical properties decay significantly. This detailed description of natural ageing of human hair fibres by a fine analysis of hair components and physical parameters in relationship with cosmetic characteristics provides a time-dependent 'damage scale' of human hair, which may help in designing new targeted hair care formulations.

Formulation, characterization, and efficacy of an adenosine-containing dissolvable film for a localized anti-wrinkle effect.

A water-dissolvable film was developed to topically deliver adenosine for a localized anti-wrinkle effect. The polymers used to produce the film were cellulose derivatives. An aqueous mixture of the film components was made, coated on a liner, and then dried to form a solid film. No preservatives were added and the film was shown to be stable over time. The film quickly dissolves in water to form a uniform layer at the surface of the skin, as shown by scanning electron microscopy. The film layer can still be visualized on the wrinkle six hours after being applied on the skin. A randomized, placebo-controlled, investigator-blind study was conducted in female volunteers to assess the efficacy of the 1% adenosine-containing dissolvable film. After three weeks and eight weeks, a twice daily application led to a significant decrease in the skin roughness parameters as observed using fast optical in vivo topometry (FOITS). These results demonstrate that water-dissolvable films may be used as novel, preservative-free, cosmetic delivery systems.

Investigation of dyed human hair fibres using apertureless near-field scanning optical microscopy.

We present the first studies of dyed human hair fibres performed with an apertureless scanning near-field optical microscope. Samples consisted of 5-microm-thick cross-sections, the hair fibres being bleached and then dyed before being cut. Hair dyed with two molecular probes diffusing deep inside the fibre or mainly spreading at its periphery were investigated at a wavelength of 655 nm. An optical resolution of about 50 nm was achieved, well below the diffraction limit; the images exhibited different optical contrasts in the cuticle region, depending on the nature of the dye. Our results suggest that the dye that remains confined at the hair periphery is mainly located at its surface and in the endocuticle.