Characterization of the mechanical properties of the cortex region of human hair fibers by multiparametric atomic force microscopy mapping.

We show the benefit of the use of atomic force microscopy (AFM) in spectroscopy force mode (FV: force volume) for evaluation of the cosmetic active effectiveness in improving the mechanical properties of human hair fibers cortex region. For this, we characterized human hair fibers without and with chemical damage caused by bleaching process. Fiber and resin (embedding material) data were obtained simultaneously in the mapping in order to have the resin data as a reference to ensure a coherent comparison between data from the different fiber groups. Our AFM results, which were evaluated using statistical tests, demonstrated the degradation of fibers after bleaching, corroborating the findings of transmission electron microscopy analysis and the effectiveness of a cosmetic active ingredient in improving the Young's modulus (elastic modulus) (E) of the damaged fibers. We also found a radial decrease in the natural logarithm of Young's modulus ln(E) along the cross-section of the active group fiber, which is compatible with confocal Raman spectroscopy analysis by other authors, demonstrating variation of the active permeation with depth. We note that Young's modulus was also determined by a tensile tester (macro-scale technique), in which it was not possible to obtain statistically significant differences between the groups, evidencing the advantage of the FV-AFM analysis. We also found an increase in ln(E) accompanied by a decrease in maximum adhesion force between tip and sample (negative Pearson correlation coefficient). This result can be explained by the fact that structures composed of hydrophobic components have a higher Young's modulus than structures composed of hydrophilic components.

Influence of the Mixtures of Vegetable Oil and Vitamin E over the Microstructure and Rheology of Organogels.

Candelilla wax (CW) and 12-hydroxystearic acid (12HSA) are classic solid-fiber-matrix organogelators. Despite the high number of studies using those ingredients in oily systems, there is scarce literature using a mixture of oil and antioxidants. Vitamin E (VE) is an important candidate for its lipophilicity and several applications on pharmaceutical, cosmetics, and food industries. In this work, we investigated the influences of mixtures between vegetable oil (VO) and VE on the microstructures and rheological properties of CW and 12HSA organogels. A weak gel (G''/G' > 0.1) with a shear-thinning behavior was observed for all samples. The presence of VE impacted the gel strength and the phase transition temperatures in a dose-dependent pattern. Larger and denser packed crystals were seen for 12HSA samples, while smaller and more dispersed structures were obtained for CW organogels. The results obtained in this work allowed the correlation of the structural and mechanical properties of the organogels, which plays an important role in the physical-chemical characteristics of these materials.

Vaccinium myrtillus L. extract associated with octocrylene, bisoctrizole, and titanium dioxide: in vitro and in vivo tests to evaluate safety and efficacy.

OBJECTIVE: The harmful effects induced by ultraviolet exposition and the significant increment in skin cancer diagnosis confirm the necessity to develop effective and safe sunscreens. Limited efficacy and cutaneous adverse reactions of traditional formulations drove the incorporation of natural extracts into multifunctional sunscreens. Vaccinium myrtillus L. extract (VME), that contains anthocyanins and flavonoids, is a potential candidate for such systems. METHODS: Considering that, we performed in vitro and in vivo tests to evaluate the sun protection factor (SPF), photostability, and safety of sunscreen samples containing VME. RESULTS: As main results, the SPF was reduced in both in vitro and in vivo evaluation in the presence of VME; nonetheless, the samples were photostable and safe. CONCLUSION: Further investigation is required to better understand the unexpected effects of VME over photoprotection, decreasing the SPF value. As a conclusion, even with interesting findings, we highlight the importance of case-by-case investigations to develop multifunctional bioactive sunscreens.

Prevention of chemically induced hair damage by means of treatment based on proteins and polysaccharides.

BACKGROUND: There is currently a great interest not only in developing products for the protection and recovery of chemically damaged hair, but also in developing effective protocols to investigate the impact of chemical treatments and attest the efficacy of innovative hair care products. Among the most relevant cosmetic treatments for hair are bleaching and coloring, which have been shown to significantly impair mechanical and structural properties. OBJECTIVES: This study aimed to characterize the damage induced by hair bleaching and coloring and to evaluate the protective effects of a hair care treatment based on integral silk proteins (fibroin and sericin) and vegetable-derived polysaccharides from linseed (Linum usitatissimum L.). METHODS: Hair swatches were subjected to different treatment protocols in order to evaluate the protective effect of proposed and benchmark products during bleaching and coloring processes. Tensile tests were performed to assess mechanical properties and improvement in resistance to breakage. Goniophotometric measurements were applied to determine improvement in luster. Hair fiber surface and relief were evaluated by SEM image analysis. RESULTS: Swatches bleached and treated with both evaluated products had a significant increase in resistance and reduced structural damage. Swatches colored and treated with both evaluated products showed reduced structural damage, and a significant increase in resistance and luster after the 1st and 5th washes. CONCLUSIONS: The proposed product was effective in protecting and repairing bleached and colored swatches, improving resistance and luster and reducing structural damage. By applying complementary techniques within a reliable evaluation protocol, it was possible to attest the protective properties of the product under study.

Xylityl Sesquicaprylate Efficacy as an Antiseptic Ingredient for Oral Care Products (Mouthwash): An In Vitro Screening Investigation against Eight Microorganisms.

For dental caries and periodontal diseases initiated by dental plaque (as bacterial communities) and to inhibit the growth of oral pathogenic bacteria, oral care products containing antiseptic active ingredients are highly recommended, nonetheless, side effects of such actives are a concern (teeth discoloration/staining and taste perception, for example). In this context, we challenged xylityl sesquicaprylate, an antiseptic compound from natural resources, as an active ingredient to be used in an alcohol-free mouthwash formulation. The xylityl sesquicaprylate sample was compared to a respective blank mouthwash formulation and one containing triclosan. The in vitro efficacy was screened by the time-kill assay against eight microorganisms. The xylityl sesquicaprylate-containing mouthwash (0.45% w/w) presented a particularly interesting profile of efficacy against Actinomyces viscosus, Fusobacterium nucleatum, Porphyromonas gingivalis, and Tannerella forsythia, with results of greater magnitude to reduce the log10 of those microorganisms in comparison with the triclosan sample.

Propanediol (and) Caprylic Acid (and) Xylitol as a New Single Topical Active Ingredient against Acne: In Vitro and In Vivo Efficacy Assays.

In addition to dermatological complications, acne can affect the quality of life of individuals in numerous ways, such as employment, social habits and body dissatisfaction. According to our expertise, caprylic acid and propanediol would not have a direct action on Cutibacterium acnes. Despite this, we investigated the existence of a synergistic effect among xylitol, caprylic acid and propanediol as a mixture of compounds representing a single topical active ingredient that could benefit the treatment against acne. In vitro and in vivo assays were performed to challenge and to prove the efficacy of propanediol, xylitol and caprylic acid (PXCA) against acne. PXCA had its MIC challenged against C. acnes (formerly Propionibacterium acnes) and Staphylococcus aureus, resulting in concentrations of 0.125% and 0.25%, respectively, and it also developed antimicrobial activity against C. acnes (time-kill test). PXCA was able to reduce the 5-alpha reductase expression in 24% (p < 0.01) in comparison with the testosterone group. By the end of 28 days of treatment, the compound reduced the skin oiliness, porphyrin amount and the quantity of inflammatory lesions in participants. According to the dermatologist evaluation, PXCA improved the skin's general appearance, acne presence and size.

Vitamin E-loaded bigels and emulsions: Physicochemical characterization and potential biological application.

Bigels have been studied as topical formulations for its benefits over sensory and drug delivery parameters. However, there is still few evidences about the properties of the combination of organogelators, oily phases and bioactive molecules into rheological and stability behavior. We investigated the use of classical organogelators (candelilla wax and 12-hydroxystearic acid) and oily phases (sunflower and mineral oil) in 5/95 organogel/polymeric hydrogel ratio to compare vitamin E bigels with its corresponding emulsions. The rheological measurements, microstructure, physical and oxidative stability properties and biological behavior were evaluated. The obtained oil-in-water bigels and emulsions showed crystallization pattern at the interface with high thermal and centrifuge-stress stability. Viscoelastic weak gels were obtained with higher thixotropy and consistency of 12-hydroxystearic bigels. The diameter of the inner phase was increased by vitamin E, despite its little influence over physical and oxidative stability of bigels and emulsions. Those findings indicated that sensory attributes may be regulated by the organogel composition.

Composto nutracêutico aumenta a síntese de colágeno, elastina e ácido hialurônico / Nutraceutical compound increases collagen, elastin and hyaluronic acid synthesis

Introdução: O uso de produtos nutracêuticos com a finalidade de atenuar os sinais do envelhecimento da pele tem sido proposto na literatura. O estímulo à síntese de elementos de sustentação da derme é um dos mecanismos relacionados a esse efeito. Objetivo: Avaliar a eficácia de um nutracêutico contendo luteína, licopeno, vitamina C e mangânes na síntese de colágeno, elastina e ácido hialurônico. Métodos: Estudo realizado in vitro, através de cultura de fibroblastos humanos tratadas com o produto investigado em diferentes concentrações não citotóxicas. A quantificação de elastina e colágeno foi determinada através de medidas espectrofotométricas enquanto que a de ácido hialurônico foi determinada por método imunoenzimático. Resultados: As culturas celulares tratadas com as diferentes concentrações do produto apresentaram quantidade sintetizada de colágeno, elastina e ácido hialurônico significativamente maior quando comparadas com a cultura não tratada (p<0,05). Conclusões: O uso de nutracêutico contendo licopeno, vitamina C, luteína e manganês demonstrou eficácia in vitro no estímulo à síntese de colágeno, elastina e ácido hialurônico, elementos essenciais na estrutura de sustentação da derme e responsáveis pelas características de firmeza e elasticidade da pele.

Introduction: The use of nutraceutical products in order to attenuate signs of skin aging has been proposed in the literature. The stimulus to the synthesis of substances that support the dermis is one of the mechanisms linked to this effect. Objective: To evaluate the effectiveness of a nutraceutical compound containing lutein, lycopene, vitamin C and manganese for the synthesis of collagen, elastin and hyaluronic acid. Methods: An in vitro study was carried out based on the culture of human fibroblasts treated with the investigated product in different non-cytotoxic concentrations. The quantification of the elastin and collagen was performed with the assistance of spectrophotometric measurements. Hyaluronic acid was measure using a immunoenzymatic method. Results: Cell cultures treated with the different concentrations of the product showed a significantly higher amount of synthesized collagen, elastin and hyaluronic acid as compared to the untreated culture (p <0.05). Conclusions: The use of the nutraceutical compound containing lycopene, vitamin C, lutein and manganese has shown in vitro efficacy for stimulating the synthesis of collagen, elastin and hyaluronic acid, components that are crucial for providing the dermis' supporting structure, being responsible for the skin's firmness and elasticity.

Patenting in the cosmetic sector: study of the use of herbal extracts

The aim of this work was to evaluate the innovative performance of herbal extracts applied in cosmetics area, based on information collected from Brazilian, American and European patent banks. Analysis were carried out to evaluate the number of patent deposits from each database, the patent applicants profiles, the companies with most patent applications, and also the main uses of herbal extracts in cosmetics. Based on the results achieved, the number of patents filed at the Brazilian patent bank is much lower than that observed in American and European patent banks. Although the number of patents is limited, the analysis indicated a range of cosmetic applications that acts according to the international market trend, represented by a large number of multifunctional products.

O objetivo deste trabalho foi avaliar o cenário da inovação referente a extratos vegetais aplicados no setor de cosméticos, com base em informações extraídas dos bancos de patentes brasileiro, americano e europeu. Foram realizadas análises para avaliar o número de depósitos de patentes de cada banco de dados, o perfil dos depositantes, as empresas com maior número de registros de patentes, e também as principais aplicações dos extratos vegetais descritos nos documentos. Com base nos resultados obtidos, o número de patentes depositadas no banco de patentes brasileiro é muito inferior ao observado nos bancos de patentes americano e europeu. No entanto, embora o número de patentes seja limitado, as análises indicaram uma variedade de aplicações cosméticas que agem de acordo com a tendência do mercado internacional, representada por um número elevado de produtos multifuncionais.