Ascorbic acid encapsulated into negatively charged liposomes exhibits increased skin permeation, retention and enhances collagen synthesis by fibroblasts.

Ascorbic acid (AA) is widely used in cosmetic formulations due to its antioxidant property and ability to increase collagen synthesis. Here, we encapsulated AA in vesicles with different lipid compositions. Negative liposome charge favored AA skin retention, with accumulation of 37 ± 12 and 74 ± 23 µg/cm2 in the epidermis and dermis, respectively, after 6 hours. Drug flux was influenced by the formulation composition, and both the presence of cholesterol and the liposomes surface charge were able to increase the amount of AA crossing the skin. The formulation was stable for at least 30 days and promoted a 7-fold increase in flux compared to free AA. Additionally, liposomes were able to interact better with keratinocytes and fibroblasts membranes. In vitro efficacy studies demonstrated that associating AA to these liposomes resulted in increased effectiveness of type I collagen synthesis by fibroblasts and regeneration of UVA-induced damage in keratinocytes. Our results demonstrate the applicability of AA-negatively charged liposomes in promoting AA cutaneous permeation and increasing the retention and flux of this molecule in the skin. This formulation also increased AA stability and effectiveness, opening new perspectives for its application in view of reducing certain skin ageing outcomes.

An EPR spin probe study of the interactions between PC liposomes and stratum corneum membranes.

The electron paramagnetic resonance (EPR) spin labeling methodology was used to analyze the interactions of phosphatidylcholine (PC) liposomal formulations that are commonly used as transepidermal drug delivery systems with stratum corneum (SC) membranes. The lipid dynamics of five liposome formulations were evaluated to study the influences of sorbitan monooleate (Span80), cholesterol, and cholesterol with the charged lipids 2-dioleoyl-3-trimethylammonium-propane (DOTAP) and 1,2-distearoyl-sn-glycero-3-phospho-(1'-rac-glycerol) (DSPG) on the molecular dynamics of PC vesicles. The EPR spectra of 5-doxyl-stearic acid (5-DSA) showed that the addition of Span80 to the liposomes increased the lipid fluidity, whereas cholesterol had the opposite effect, and the combination of charged lipids and cholesterol did not additionally influence the lipid bilayer dynamics. Fatty acid spin-labeled SC membranes were treated with the liposome formulations, leading to migration of the spin label to the molecular environment of the formulation and the presence of two spectral components representing distinct mobility states. In terms of molecular dynamics, these environments correspond to the lipid domains of the untreated SC and the liposome, indicating a poor interaction between the liposome and SC membranes. However, the contact was sufficient to allow a pronounced exchange of the spin-labeled fatty acid. Our data suggest that flexible liposomes may access the inner intercellular membranes of the SC and facilitate mutual lipid exchange without losing their relative liposomal integrity.

Impact of lipid dynamic behavior on physical stability, in vitro release and skin permeation of genistein-loaded lipid nanoparticles.

The aim of this study was to develop lipid nanoparticles to deliver genistein (GEN) to deeper skin layers. To do so, the impact of lipid dynamic behavior (nanoparticle flexibility) on stability, release and skin permeation studies was verified. GEN-loaded solid lipid nanoparticles (SLN) and nanostructured lipid carriers (NLC) were obtained and characterization was undertaken. Freshly prepared nanoparticles were produced with similar features (i.e., drug loading). However, a higher level of crystallization in GEN-SLN formulation was observed in differential scanning calorimetry experiments. Electron paramagnetic resonance measurements showed a lower mobility of the spin labels in the SLN, which would indicate that NLC could be more flexible than SLN. Despite the fact that NLC demonstrated more fluidity, GEN was released more slowly from NLC than from SLN. Skin permeation studies demonstrated that lipid nanoparticles increased GEN skin retention. More flexible particles (NLC) also favored drug penetration into deeper skin layers. GEN-NLC would seem to be a promising formulation for GEN topical delivery.

Development and validation of a simple and rapid liquid chromatography method for the determination of genistein in skin permeation studies.

Genistein (GEN) has potential advantages for topical skin delivery, but no literature data are available for its quantitation in different skin layers, such as the stratum corneum (SC). Therefore, a simple, rapid, selective and sensitive bioanalytical method was developed and validated for GEN quantitation in porcine skin samples following in vitro permeation studies. GEN was assayed by HPLC with UV-Vis detection (270 nm) using 0.5% acetic acid in water-n-propanol-acetonitrile (50 : 2 : 48, v/v/v) as mobile phase (flow-rate of 1.0 mL/min). Specificity was demonstrated since endogenous skin components did not interfere with GEN peak. Standard analytical curve was linear over the concentration range (0.1-60 µg/mL) and the lower limit of quantitation was determined for different skin layers (100 ng/mL). GEN recovery from skin layers ranged from 95.57 to 97.57%. Permeation studies were carried out using an automated vertical diffusion cell apparatus. No fluctuation on the amount of GEN retained in the SC was observed over time, but increasing amounts of the drug were found in deeper layers of the skin. The method was reliable and reproducible for the quantitation GEN in skin samples enabling the determination of the cutaneous penetration profile of this drug in permeation experiments.