Enzymatic synthesis of a skin active ingredient - glochidone by 3-ketosteroid dehydrogenase from Sterolibacterium denitrificans.

In this study, we applied AcmB2, sourced from Sterolibacterium denitrificans, to catalyze the oxidative dehydrogenation of 3-ketolupeol (lupenone), a derivative of lupeol, triterpene obtained from birch bark. This enzymatic Δ1-dehydrogenation catalyzed by AcmB2 yielded glochidone, a bioactive compound frequently obtained from medicinal plants like Salvia trichoclada and Maytenus boria. Glochidone is known for its broad biological activities, including antibacterial, antifungal, anti-inflammatory, anticancer, antidiabetic as well as acetylcholinesterase inhibition. Our research demonstrates >99% conversion efficiency with 100% regioselectivity of the reaction. The effective conversion to glochidone employed an electron acceptor e.g., potassium hexacyanoferrate III, in mild, environmentally friendly conditions: 8-16% 2-hydroxypropyl-ß-cyclodextrin, and 2-3% 2-methoxyethanol. AcmB2 reaction optimum was determined at pH 8.0 and 30 °C. Enzyme's biochemical attributes such as electron acceptor type, concentration and steroid substrate specificity were investigated. Among 4-, 5- and 6-ring steroid derivatives androst-4-en-3,17-dione and testosterone propionate were determined as the best substrates of AcmB2. Δ1-Dehydrogenation of substrates such as lupenone, diosgenone and 3-ketopetromyzonol was confirmed. We have assessed the antioxidant and rejuvenating characteristics of glochidone as an active component in formulations, considering its precursors, lupeol, and lupenone as well. Glochidone exhibited limited antioxidant and chelating capabilities compared to lupeol and reference compounds. However, it demonstrated robust rejuvenating properties, with a sirtuin induction level of 61.5 ± 1.87%, notably surpassing that of the reference substance, E-resveratrol (45.15 ± 0.09%). Additionally, glochidone displayed 26.5±0.67 and 19.41±0.76% inhibition of elastase and collagenase, respectively. The safety of all studied triterpenes was confirmed on skin reconstructed human Epidermis model. These findings provide valuable insights into the potential applications of glochidone in formulations aimed at addressing skin health concerns. This research presents the first example of an enzyme in the 3-ketosteroid dehydrogenase (KstD) family catalyzing the Δ1-dehydrogenation of a pentacyclic triterpene. We also explored structural differences between AcmB, AcmB2, and related KstDs pointing to G52 and P532 as potentially responsible for the unique substrate specificity of AcmB2. Our findings not only highlight the enzyme's capabilities but also present novel enzymatic pathways for bioactive compound synthesis.

Vitis vinifera (Vine Grape) as a Valuable Cosmetic Raw Material.

This review refers to botanical, ecological and phytochemical characteristics of Vitis vinifera L. (vine grape)-a species, the valuable properties of which are widely exploited in the food industry and in recent times in medicine as well as in phytocosmetology. The general characteristic of V. vinifera, followed by the chemical composition and biological activities of different extracts obtained from the plant (fruit, skin, pomace, seed, leaf and stem extracts), are provided. A concise review of the extraction conditions of grape metabolites and the methods of their analysis are also presented. The biological activity of V. vinifera is determined by the presence of high contents of polyphenols, mainly flavonoids (e.g., quercetin, kaempferol), catechin derivatives, anthocyanins and stilbenoids (e.g., trans-resveratrol, trans-ε-viniferin). The review pays particular attention to the application of V. vinifera in cosmetology. It has been proven that V. vinifera possesses strong cosmetological-related properties, such as anti-ageing properties, anti-inflammatory properties and skin-whitening properties. Moreover, a review of studies on V. vinifera biological activities, which are of particular interest for dermatologic problems, are disclosed. Furthermore, the work also emphasises the importance of biotechnological studies on V. vinifera. The last part of the review is addressed to the safety of the use of V. vinifera.