Cognitive-behavioural processes during route previewing in bouldering.

INTRODUCTION: In the Olympic climbing discipline of bouldering, climbers can preview boulders before actually climbing them. Whilst such pre-climbing route previewing is considered as central to subsequent climbing performance, research on cognitive-behavioural processes during the preparatory phase in the modality of bouldering is lacking. The present study aimed at extending existing findings on neural efficiency processes associated with advanced skill level during motor activity preparation by examining cognitive-behavioural processes during the previewing of boulders. METHODS: Intermediate (n = 20), advanced (n = 20), and elite (n = 20) climbers were asked to preview first, and then attempt two boulders of different difficulty levels (boulder 1: advanced difficulty; boulder 2: elite difficulty). During previewing, climbers' gaze behaviour was gathered using a portable eye-tracker. RESULTS: Linear regression revealed for both boulders a significant relation between participants' skill levels and both preview duration and number of scans during previewing. Elite climbers more commonly used a superficial scan path than advanced and intermediate climbers. In the more difficult boulder, both elite and advanced climbers showed longer preview durations, performed more scans, and applied less often a superficial scan path than in the easier boulder. CONCLUSION: Findings revealed that cognitive-behavioural processes during route previewing are associated with climbing expertise and boulder difficulty. Superior domain-specific cognitive proficiency seems to account for the expertise-processing-paradigm in boulder previewing, contributing to faster and more conscious acquisition of perceptual cues, more efficient visual search strategies, and better identification of representative patterns among experts.

The model of the brain as a complex system: Interactions of physical, neural and mental states with neurocognitive functions.

The isolated approaching of physical, neural and mental states and the binary classification into stable traits and fluctuating states previously lead to a limited understanding concerning underlying processes and possibilities to explain, measure and regulate neural and mental performance along with the interaction of mental states and neurocognitive traits. In this article these states are integrated by i) differentiating the model of the brain as a complex, self-organizing system, ii) showing possibilities to measure this model, iii) offering a classification of mental states and iv) presenting a holistic operationalization of state regulations and trait trainings to enhance neural and mental high-performance on a macro- and micro scale. This model integrates current findings from the theory of constructed emotions, the theory of thousand brains and complex systems theory and yields several testable hypotheses to provide an integrated reference frame for future research and applied target points to regulate and enhance performance.

The structure of cognitive strategies for wayfinding decisions.

Literature proposes five distinct cognitive strategies for wayfinding decisions at intersections. Our study investigates whether those strategies rely on a generalized decision-making process, on two frame-specific processes-one in an egocentric and the other in an allocentric spatial reference frame, and/or on five strategy-specific processes. Participants took six trips along a prescribed route through five virtual mazes, each designed for decision-making by a particular strategy. We found that wayfinding accuracy on trips through a given maze correlated significantly with the accuracy on trips through another maze that was designed for a different reference frame (rbetween-frames = 0.20). Correlations were not significantly higher if the other maze was designed for the same reference frame (rwithin-frames = 0.19). However, correlations between trips through the same maze were significantly higher than those between trips through different mazes that were designed for the same reference frame (rwithin-maze = 0.52). We conclude that wayfinding decisions were based on a generalized cognitive process, as well as on strategy-specific processes, while the role of frame-specific processes-if any-was relatively smaller. Thus, the well-established dichotomy of egocentric versus allocentric spatial representations did not translate into a similar, observable dichotomy of decision-making.

The naturalness bias in sport.

We examined the naturalness bias - the tendency to prefer people who seem to come by their talent naturally and not through work or effort - on ratings of athletic ability. Football (soccer) coaches, athletes, fans, and non-fans (n = 430) read about an athlete described as either being a natural or a striver. After watching a video of the athlete going through drills, participants rated the athlete on likelihood of success, athletic skill, mental strength, and physiological ability. Participants of all expertise levels tended to rate the athlete described as a natural as being higher in mental toughness than did the participants rating the athlete described as being a striver. There were no significant differences in ratings for the natural and the striver for measures of skill and explosiveness. It appears that the naturalness bias was most likely to influence ratings not easily judged by viewing a single performance.

The relationships between relative age effect, personality constructs and achievement level in soccer.

Introduction: Youth soccer academies are challenged with the constant recruitment process of young talented players to select those who will achieve long-term success as an athlete. Youth soccer academies strive to enhance the physical and technical skill development as well as personality development of talented players because psychological characteristics play a crucial role in players' future success in their transition to professional soccer. The least mature players and relatively young players may have a greater need to possess superior technical/tactical or psycho-behavioral skills than those relatively older counterparts because of the higher selection rates of early maturing players. Due to RAEs, a significant decrease in the overall quality of professional soccer teams might be observed because of the loss of talent of physically smaller, but psychologically stronger and more versatile relatively young players who possess proper technical and tactical attributes at an early age. The first objective of this study was to examine any possible relationship between RAE and personality constructs. A second objective was to identify factors and effects that can help in the further improvement of talent selection and equal opportunities for elite youth soccer players based on their underlying RAE. The third objective was to consider the impact of RAE on long-term career development. Methods: In this retrospective observational study, 151 elite youth soccer players between 15 and 18 years of age were first grouped in birth quartiles. Personality constructs were then assessed, using a combination of observations, interviews, and a self-assessment questionnaire. Next competition level after 8 years was evaluated to identify RAEs, differences in personality characteristics and opportunities to reach professional soccer player status between relatively older vs. younger players. Results: A clear significant RAE was observed for the whole database (Q1 = 38.4% vs. Q4 = 13.9%) with OR of 2.61 (χ2 = 19.46, p < 0.01, r = -0.85). Relatively young players had higher median scores on personality constructs such as self-confidence (p = 0.04), while relatively old players had higher median scores on personality constructs such as team orientation (p = 0.03). In the long term, more players of the youngest birth quartile were signed as professional players (76.2%), compared with relatively old players (46.6%). 65.0% of the 20 players had the highest total score on personality constructs developed as a professional soccer player, vs. 35.0% of the 20 players with the lowest scores. Discussion: In conclusion, this study showed not only further evidence of the RAE but also provided evidence supporting "the underdog hypothesis" in national elite youth teams. Relatively young players were also more likely to get higher value senior professional contracts in the long term. We propose that this may be due to the relatively young players developing superior psychological skills and technical expertise to compensate for their early physical disadvantage. This in turn suggests the need for greater awareness of the importance of personality constructs in the future development of youth elite soccer players. Therefore, the crux of the issue is how youth soccer academies elicit the "best of both worlds" ie. moderating RAE whilst also gaining the benefits of the underdog hypothesis by creating the right environment for every player to develop to their full potential in elite youth soccer academies.

Running with whole-body electromyostimulation improves physiological determinants of endurance performance - a randomized control trial.

BACKGROUND: This study aimed to evaluate the physiological and metabolic adaptations to an eight-week running intervention with whole-body electromyostimulation (wbEMS) compared to running without wbEMS. METHODS: In a randomized controlled trial (RCT), 59 healthy participants (32 female/ 27 male, 41 ± 7 years, rel.V̇O2max 40.2 ± 7.4 ml/min/kg) ran twice weekly à 20 min for eight weeks either with a wbEMS suit (EG) or without wbEMS (control group, CG). Before and after the intervention, (i) rel.V̇O2max, heart rate and time to exhaustion were recorded with an incremental step test with an incremental rate of 1.20 km/h every 3 min. They were interpreted at aerobic and (indirect) anaerobic lactate thresholds as well as at maximum performance. (ii) Resting metabolic rate (RQ) as well as (iii) body composition (%fat) were assessed. RESULTS: Following the intervention, V̇O2max was significantly enhanced for both groups (EG ∆13 ± 3%, CG ∆9 ± 3%). Velocity was elevated at lactate thresholds and maximum running speed (EG ∆3 ± 1%, CG ∆2 ± 1%); HRmax was slightly reduced by -1 beat/min. No significant changes were observed for time until exhaustion and lactate. RQ was significantly enhanced following both trainings by + 7%. %fat was reduced for both groups (EG ∆-11 ± 3%, CG ∆-16 ± 5%), without any changes in body mass. Results did not differ significantly between groups. CONCLUSIONS: Both interventions had a positive impact on aerobic power. The rightward shift of the time-velocity graph points towards improved endurance performance. The effects of wbEMS are comparable to those after high-intensity training and might offer a time-efficient alternative to affect physiological and metabolic effects. TRIAL REGISTRATION: German Clinical Trials Register, ID DRKS00026827, date 10/26/21.

Analysis of contextualized intensity in Men's elite handball using graph-based deep learning.

Manual annotation of data in invasion games is a costly task which poses a natural limit on sample sizes and the level of granularity used in match and performance analyses. To overcome this challenge, this work introduces FAUPA-ML, a Framework for Automatic Upscaled Performance Analysis with Machine Learning, which leverages graph neural networks to scale domain-specific expert knowledge to large data sets. Networks were trained using position data of match phases (counter/position attacks), annotated manually by domain experts in 10 matches. The best network was applied to contextualize N = 539 matches of elite handball (2019/20-2021/22 German Men's Handball Bundesliga) with 86% balanced accuracy. Distance covered, speed, metabolic power, and metabolic work were calculated for attackers and defenders and differences between counters and position attacks across seasons analyzed with an ANOVA. Results showed that counter attacks are shorter, less frequent and more intense than position attacks and that attacking is more intense than defending. Findings show that FAUPA-ML generates accurate replications of expert knowledge that can be used to gain insights in performance analysis previously deemed infeasible. Future studies can use FAUPA-ML for large-scale, contextualized analyses that investigate influences of team strength, score-line, or team tactics on performance.

Synchronization of passes in event and spatiotemporal soccer data.

The majority of soccer analysis studies investigates specific scenarios through the implementation of computational techniques, which involve the examination of either spatiotemporal position data (movement of players and the ball on the pitch) or event data (relating to significant situations during a match). Yet, only a few applications perform a joint analysis of both data sources despite the various involved advantages emerging from such an approach. One possible reason for this is a non-systematic error in the event data, causing a temporal misalignment of the two data sources. To address this problem, we propose a solution that combines the SwiftEvent online algorithm (Gensler and Sick in Pattern Anal Appl 21:543-562, 2018) with a subsequent refinement step that corrects pass timestamps by exploiting the statistical properties of passes in the position data. We evaluate our proposed algorithm on ground-truth pass labels of four top-flight soccer matches from the 2014/15 season. Results show that the percentage of passes within half a second to ground truth increases from 14 to 70%, while our algorithm also detects localization errors (noise) in the position data. A comparison with other models shows that our algorithm is superior to baseline models and comparable to a deep learning pass detection method (while requiring significantly less data). Hence, our proposed lightweight framework offers a viable solution that enables groups facing limited access to (recent) data sources to effectively synchronize passes in the event and position data.

The obligation to succeed when it matters the most-The influence of skill and pressure on the success in football penalty kicks.

In order to gain a more comprehensive understanding of the influence of skill and pressure on the success in football penalty kicks, we analyzed 1711 penalties taken over a 15-year period in major international tournaments. We conducted a multiple correspondence analysis in order to reduce six variables that are associated with skill and pressure to two dimensions that reflect our target concepts. Then, we used these two factors as independent variables in a logistic regression and fit different models using three binary dependent variables. The results show that high situational pressure significantly increases the probability of missing the goal entirely by about 6%, independent of the player's skill level. The probability that the goalkeeper saves a penalty significantly decreases by roughly 4% when a highly skilled player takes the shot. In general, high situational pressure decreases the probability of scoring a penalty kick. Furthermore, the probability to score a penalty increases if a highly skilled player takes the kick which indicates that a high skill level can act as a kind of buffer against debilitating effects caused by performance pressure.

Head movement direction in football - a field study on visual scanning activity during the UEFA-U17 and -U21 European Championship 2019.

Visual exploration (scanning) of one's environment is a key aspect in team sports. Based on Gibson's (1979) ecological approach of visual perception, this study aims to advance the understanding of scanning by focusing on the direction of head movements in football and its implications for subsequent on-ball actions. The video-based data analysis consisted of nine selected matches and 162 players of the Union of European Football Associations (UEFA) U17 and U21 European Championship 2019. The results indicate that the direction of the last scan prior to receiving the ball is related to the foot used for the first ball contact. This relationship was further analysed in view of the game context (direction of play and opponent pressure) and with information about the player's dominant foot. The findings reveal a relationship between the direction of the last scan before receiving the ball and the direction the game is proceeded in. Further, when a player performs the last scan to the side of their dominant foot, the probability increases that their dominant foot is used for the subsequent first ball contact. Depending on the direction of the last scan, opponent pressure had various effects on the foot used for the first contact.

Analysis of Motion Characteristics and Metabolic Power in Elite Male Handball Players.

While handball is characterized by repeated sprints and changes of direction, traditional player load models do not consider accelerations and decelerations. The aim of this study was to analyze the differences between metabolic power and speed zones for player load assessment with regard to the player role. Position data from 330 male individuals during 77 games from the 2019/20 German Men's Handball-Bundesliga (HBL) were analyzed, resulting in 2233 individual observations. Players were categorized into wings, backs and pivots. Distance covered in different speed zones, metabolic power, metabolic work, equivalent distance (metabolic work divided by energy cost of running), time spend running, energy spend running, and time over 10 and 20 W were calculated. A 2-by-3 mixed ANOVA was calculated to investigate differences and interactions between groups and player load models. Results showed that total distance was longest in wings (3568 ± 1459 m in 42 ± 17 min), followed by backs (2462 ± 1145 m in 29 ± 14 min), and pivots (2445 ± 1052 m in 30 ± 13 min). Equivalent distance was greatest in wings (4072.50 ± 1644.83 m), followed by backs (2765.23 ± 1252.44 m), and pivots (2697.98 ± 1153.16 m). Distance covered and equivalent distance showed moderate to large interaction effects between wings and backs (p < .01, ES = 0.73) and between wings and pivots (p < .01, ES = 0.86) and a small interaction effect between backs and pivots (p < .01, ES = 0.22). The results underline the need for individualized management of training loads and the potential of using information about locomotive accelerations and decelerations to obtain more precise descriptions of player load during handball game performance at the highest level of competition. Future studies should investigate the influence of physical performance on smaller match sequences, like ball possession phases.

Effects of plyometric training on kicking performance in soccer players: A systematic review and meta-analysis.

This systematic review and meta-analysis aimed to determine the pooled effect size (ES) of plyometric training (PT) on kicking performance (kicking speed and distance) in soccer players depending upon some related factors (i.e., age, gender, skill level, and intervention duration). This study was carried out according to the PRISMA guidelines. Four electronic databases-EBSCO, PubMed, Scopus, and Web of Science-were searched for relevant studies. A total of n = 16 studies yielding 17 ES with n = 553 participants were finally included in the meta-analysis. A random-effects model was used to calculate Hedge's g with a 95% confidence interval (CI), which showed that plyometric training had a large-sized positive effect on soccer kicking performance (g = 0.979, 95% CI [0.606, 1.353], p < 0.001). Subgroup analyses were performed according to participants' characteristics (i.e., age, gender, skill level) and intervention duration, demonstrating no significant differences between these subgroups. The study pointed out that plyometric training is a generally effective method to improve soccer players' kicking performance, which plays a crucial role in passing and shooting actions during games. As for soccer players and strength and conditioning coaches, the plyometric training aiming to enhance kicking performance has valuable implications in practice. Therefore, besides well-known training methods like power training in the weight room, plyometric training could be incorporated into the overall strength and conditioning programs for soccer players to reach high standards of kicking performance.

A color-related bias in offside judgments in professional soccer: A matter of figure-background contrast?

We investigated the impact of outfit colors on the frequency of offside judgments in soccer. In a recent laboratory study, observers made more offside judgments against forwards wearing the outfit of Schalke 04 (blue shirts, white shorts) than against forwards wearing the outfit of Borussia Dortmund (yellow shirts, black shorts), when figure-background luminance contrast was higher for the former team. Here, we investigated whether a similar effect is present in real matches of the German Bundesliga. Study 1 revealed a higher offside score for Schalke 04 than for Borussia Dortmund in matches between these clubs. Studies 2-4 showed higher offside scores for teams wearing a blue/white outfit, and lower offside scores for teams wearing a yellow/black outfit, in their matches against all other Bundesliga teams. Together, results suggest that more offside judgments are made against teams of higher salience, possibly induced by differences in figure-background contrast. Notably, this color-related bias occurred in our study even though a Video-Assistant Referee (VAR) supervised the (offside) decisions of the Assistant Referees.

Choice between decision-making strategies in human route-following.

To follow a prescribed route, we must decide which way to turn at intersections. To do so, we can memorize either the serial order of directions or the associations between spatial cues and directions ("at the drug store, turn left"). Here, we investigate which of these two strategies is used if both are available. In Task S, all intersections looked exactly alike, and participants therefore had to use the serial order strategy to decide which way their route continued. In Task SA, each intersection displayed a unique spatial cue, and participants therefore could use either strategy. In Task A, each intersection displayed a unique cue, but the serial order of cues varied between trips, and participants therefore had to use the associative cue strategy. We found that route-following accuracy increased from trip to trip, was higher on routes with 12 rather than 18 intersections, and was higher on Task SA than on the other two tasks, both with 12 and with 18 intersections. Furthermore, participants on Task SA acquired substantial knowledge about the serial order of directions as well as about cue-direction associations, both with 12 and with 18 intersections. From this we conclude that, when both strategies were available, participants did not pick the better one but rather used both. This represents dual encoding, a phenomenon previously described for more elementary memory tasks. We further conclude that dual encoding may be implemented even if the memory load is not very high (i.e., even with only 12 intersections).

Whole-Body Electromyostimulation Impacts Physiological Responses During Aerobic Running: A Randomized Trial.

Objective: The aim of the current study was to evaluate the physiological and metabolic responses to running with whole-body electromyostimulation (wbEMS) compared to running without electromyostimulation (control, CG). Methods: Twenty healthy participants (9 male/11 female, age 42 ±7 years) conducted an incremental step test with respiratory gas analysis until exhaustion. Trials were conducted as wbEMS and CG in a random order. As outcome measures, (A) objective total exhaustion, (B) athletic responses (max. time and velocity) and (C) physiological and metabolic responses (V'O2/ kg, V'E, EE, RER, lactate) were compared. (D) The impact on the skeletal muscle was assessed prior, 48 h & 72 h after trial. Results: During both trials, participants (A) ran until total exhaustion. Nonetheless, (B) time and velocity till exhaustion as well as (C) RER prior to the first lactate threshold and V'E were reduced with wbEMS. All other correlates did not differ significantly between wbEMS and CG. Following 48 h and 72 h after the trial with wbEMS, (D) the impact on the skeletal muscle was 7- to 9-fold higher compared to baseline values. Values differed significantly to those after running without wbEMS. Conclusion: With the additional stimulation during voluntary activation, wbEMS induces earlier fatigue and a shift in energy metabolism toward fat utilization. Even during aerobic endurance tasks, a great impact on the skeletal muscle indicated by the rise in CK could be observed which promotes wbEMS as an alternative training stimulus that is easy-to-apply and effective during endurance training.

Investigating the impact age has on within-over and death bowling performances in international level 50-over cricket.

The aims of this investigation were to determine if ageing effects were present in elite international level cricket. Ball-by-ball data were analysed for 96 bowlers in the 50-Over World Cup 2019. Bowlers were categorized into 1 of 3 age groups GROUP 1 (18-24), GROUP 2 (25-31) and GROUP 3 (32+). Ordinal Logistic Regressions (OLR) and Multinomial Logistic Regressions (MLR) were conducted to estimate the relationship between age and bowling performances. OLR Results revealed that younger bowlers were significantly more likely to concede a greater number of runs on the last ball of their overs than their older counterparts (p = 0.001). A separate MLR analysis was conducted for those bowlers entrusted to bowl during the "death" phase of an innings, and results revealed that GROUP 2 bowlers were significantly more likely to take wickets than either GROUP 1 (p = 0.021) or GROUP 3 (p = 0.022) bowlers. The evidence indicates that wicket taking "death bowlers" will likely perform at their peak between the ages of 25-31, which could inform the bowling strategy of team captains. Furthermore, there is evidence to suggest that younger bowlers are not as skilled as their older counterparts at restricting runs conceded.

The impact of COVID-19 lockdown on soccer positional and physical demands in the Spanish La Liga.

The present study aimed to analyse the playing surface area, dispersion and distance covered of professional football teams comparing the pre-lockdown and post-lockdown periods. Positional and match physical demands data were collected from all matches played in the First Spanish Division (n = 760) during season 2019/2020. Pre-lockdown (1st-27th matchday) and post-lockdown periods (28th-38th matchday) were compared. Variables related to team-level spatial (i.e., convex hull, team width and team length) and physical performance (i.e., total distance and high-speed running distance) were analysed using an optical tracking system (i.e., ChyronHego). In addition, these variables were concerned with respect to the match location contextual variable. Linear mixed models were used to examine the difference between the pre-lockdown and post-lockdown periods following a hierarchical structure considering players, matches and teams. The results revealed that the pandemic lockdown affected the teams' performance when comparing the periods before and after lockdown, showing a general decrease in the average values of the spatial and physical variables measured. The current data could assist practitioners in making informed decisions in order to design and improve training plans for similar situations in which teams return to competition after an unusual period with no training.

Emergent Coordination of Heading in Soccer: Of Two Players and a Single Ball.

Purpose: In many sports situations, two or more players need to coordinate their actions to make sure that one of them intercepts a ball or opponent. We considered how two soccer players head back a thrown ball. Two accounts for the joint decision making by both players were considered. These two accounts not only differ in their theoretical basis but also have vastly different implications for training practice. In a first account, players know their areas of responsibility for interception, and combine this with their prediction of the ball's landing location. In a second account, the coordination emerges from the unfolding dynamics of the system of informationally connected players and ball. According to this second account, especially for balls aimed in between the two players, both of the players may start moving and one player sees that the ball will be interceptable for the other player, and subsequently yields the interception. Methods: We instrumented soccer players and the ball with Kinexon sensors and had pairs of players head back the thrown ball. Results: In line with the second account, the results showed a fair number of instances where the player who intercepted the ball had to move the longest distance. Furthermore, considerable movement by both players was not an exception. Conclusion: The results can be taken as a first step towards an understanding of joint coordination as an emergent phenomenon.

Mechanisms underlying superior memory of skilled climbers in indoor bouldering.

INTRODUCTION: Bouldering is an Olympic climbing discipline that encompasses short climbing sequences, referred to as boulders, set up on low-height bouldering walls. Memory plays a critical role in bouldering, as it allows climbers to develop climbing strategies, to mentally rehearse climbing movements, and to recall climbing holds of boulders. This study extends previous research on memory in climbing and bouldering with the purpose to elucidate potential mechanisms underlying superior memory abilities of skilled climbers. METHODS: Sixty climbers with intermediate (n = 20), advanced (n = 20), or elite (n = 20) skill levels were tasked to memorise the climbing holds and movements of a boulder, set up on a spray wall and demonstrated by a bouldering expert. RESULTS: Findings revealed a positive relation between the participants' bouldering skills and sport-specific movement knowledge and both, the number of climbing holds and movements they were able to memorise following a two-minute rehearsal period. CONCLUSION: Consistent with previous research, bouldering expertise is positively associated with the ability to memorise domain-specific information. Superior memory abilities among skilled climbers appear to be associated with climbing-specific movement knowledge, coupled with better mental visualisation and increased attentional focus towards functional aspects of boulders.

Penalty feet positioning rule modification and laterality effect on soccer goalkeepers' diving kinematics.

In 2019, a new rule was applied in soccer. It allows the goalkeeper to have only one foot or part of it on the goal line when the kicker hits the ball, unlike the previous rule that determined the goalkeeper should have both feet on the line. The purpose of the present study was to analyze how the change in the rule and the lower limbs laterality influences on the diving save kinematic performance in penalties. Six goalkeepers, two professionals and four amateurs, performed a total of 20 dives in the laboratory and had their force and impulse exerted by the lower limb and displacement/velocity data from the center of body mass collected through force plates and kinematic analysis. The side preference was collected through an inventory. The results showed that goalkeepers dive further (p < 0.001) and faster (p < 0.001) when diving according to the new rule. Dives for the non-dominant side presented higher values than the trials for the dominant side in mediolateral (p = 0.02) and resultant (p = 0.03) displacements. Concluding, the goalkeepers performed better with the new rule in the analyzed variables and the lower limb preference has influenced only the mediolateral and resultant displacement.