Significant Reversal of Facial Wrinkle, Pigmented Spot and Roughness by Daily Application of Galactomyces Ferment Filtrate-Containing Skin Products for 12 Months-An 11-Year Longitudinal Skin Aging Rejuvenation Study.

Facial skin aging is an important psychophysical and social concern, especially in women. We compared facial parameters reflecting aging of the skin in 1999 and 2010 in 86 female volunteers. Then, all subjects applied three Galactomyces ferment filtrate-containing skin care products (G3 products; SK-II Facial Treatment Essence, SK-II Cellumination Essence, and SK-II Skin Signature Cream) twice daily for 12 months (M), with the skin parameters being measured at 2 M, 8 M, and 12 M during this period. Facial skin aging parameters such as wrinkles, hyperpigmented spots, and roughness significantly deteriorated during the 11-year interval. This 11-year aging process was associated with reduced hydration and increased transepidermal water loss (TEWL). Notably, treatment with G3 products significantly and cumulatively increased skin hydration with a correlated reduction of TEWL during the 12 M treatment period. Such treatment also significantly and cumulatively reversed the 11-year facial skin aging in the three parameters of wrinkles, spots, and roughness. These results suggest that facial skin retains the potential to recover from the aging process when it is applied with appropriate cosmetic agents.

Enhanced Fluctuations in Facial Pore Size, Redness, and TEWL Caused by Mask Usage Are Normalized by the Application of a Moisturizer.

Mask wearing is described as one of the main public health measures against COVID-19. Mask wearing induces various types of subjective and objective facial skin damage, such as hair pore dilatation and redness. Facial pore size and redness show morning-to-evening intra-day fluctuations. It remains unknown whether mask usage affects fluctuations in pore size and redness. We measured facial skin hydration, transepidermal water loss (TEWL), pore size, and redness four times a day for 6 weeks in 20 healthy young women. After a 2-week no-mask-usage period (baseline period), all subjects wore unwoven masks for 2 weeks; then, for the following 2 weeks, they applied masks after the topical application of a moisturizer containing a Galactomyces ferment filtrate (GFF) skin care formula (Pitera™). We demonstrated that mask wearing significantly increased the intra-day fluctuations of pore size, redness, and TEWL. In addition, significant correlations were evident among these three parameters. Notably, these mask-induced skin changes were significantly improved, achieving a return to baseline levels, by the application of a GFF-containing moisturizer. In conclusion, mask wearing aggravates intra-day fluctuations in pore size and redness. Appropriate moisturization can minimize this mask-related skin damage, most likely by normalizing the elevated TEWL.

Daily Fluctuation of Facial Pore Area, Roughness and Redness among Young Japanese Women; Beneficial Effects of Galactomyces Ferment Filtrate Containing Antioxidative Skin Care Formula.

Young women often complain about the daily fluctuation of their facial skin conditions. However, no objective study has been carried out on such changes. This study is aimed at quantitatively elucidating daily skin fluctuation and evaluating the efficacy of cosmetic skin care treatment. We developed the first portable and self-guided facial skin imaging device (eMR Pro) to reproducibly capture facial images at home. Two 8 week clinical studies were then conducted to analyze daily skin fluctuation of facial pore areas, roughness and redness in young Japanese women (n = 47 in study 1 and n = 57 in study 2) by collecting facial images three times a day, during the morning after wake-up, during the morning after face wash, and during the evening after face wash. After a 4 week baseline measurement period (week -4 to week -1), all subjects applied Galactomyces ferment filtrate (GFF, Pitera®) skin care formula twice a day for 4 weeks (week 1 to week 4). These three skin conditions did exhibit different fluctuation patterns. The pore area and roughness showed the "morning after wake-up"-largest fluctuation pattern, whereas redness showed the "evening after face wash"-largest fluctuation pattern. GFF treatment significantly reduced the net values and delta fluctuation of pore area, roughness, and redness, which were consistently observed in two studies. In conclusion, the daily fluctuation of facial skin conditions is potentially a new target field for investigating healthy skin maintenance.

New image analysis tool for facial pore characterization and assessment.

BACKGROUND: Visible facial pores are an important cosmetic concern especially among young females. Number of different methodologies is used today to assess facial pores and efficacy of technologies. Main limitations of these methods are, however, (a) moderate correlation with visual perception, (b) characterization is mostly limited to size or number of pores, (c) measurement is limited to a smaller area of face, and (d) operational difficulties. In order to address these limitations, we developed a 2D image analysis tool to assess and characterize visible facial pores. MATERIALS AND METHODS: Two clinical studies were conducted with northeast Asian skin type females. In the first study, 40 subjects age between 20 and 40 with different degree of pore severity were recruited. In the second study, 15 subjects age between 20 and 40 with enlarged pores were recruited to evaluate pore product efficacy. In both studies, full face images were taken using Visia-CR and assessed by means of the newly developed tool and visual grading. RESULTS: A high correlation between visual grading and pore size was obtained (r = 0.86). New methodology was able to differentiate products similar to visual grading. CONCLUSION: Novel pore image analysis method using 2D skin surface imaging with standard photography has been developed and validated. In addition to pore size measurements, we propose this method to be used to measure pore shape, color, and orientation for a comprehensive characterization of facial pores.

Race, rather than skin pigmentation, predicts facial hair growth in women.

BACKGROUND: The Ferriman-Gallwey hirsutism score is the currently accepted standard for assessing excess hair growth that may indicate hyperandrogenicity. The score was originally based on 60 Caucasian women, and recent studies suggest that it may need modification to be used in other populations. OBJECTIVES: To investigate ethnic, racial, and pigmentary variations in hair growth of the upper lip in diverse multinational populations. RESULTS: Variations in hair growth of the upper lip were significantly related to self-reported ethnicity and race. In a logistic regression with racial groups and skin lightness, all racial groupings (African American, Hispanic, Asian Indian, and East Asian) were predictive of hair growth (all p<0.0001), but skin lightness was not (all p>0.05). CONCLUSION: The observed differences in constitutive hair growth illustrate the need to develop an ethnically stratified visual scoring method to more accurately characterize the severity of excess hair growth.

Sunlight exposure may be a risk factor of hearing impairment: a community-based study in Japanese older men and women.

BACKGROUND: Oxidative stress is an important factor in the pathology of age-related hearing loss. Recent animal studies have reported that ultraviolet radiation in sunlight is related to systemic induction of oxidative stress. Chronic sun exposure leads to photodamaged skin, which is manifested as facial skin wrinkling and hyperpigmentation. We hypothesized that sunlight exposure, as assessed by the severity of facial skin photodamage, might be associated with hearing impairment through an oxidative stress mechanism. To examine this, we performed a cross-sectional analysis by using the baseline data from a community-based cohort study of older Japanese. METHODS: A total of 805 residents (342 men and 463 women) aged 65 years or older living in Kurabuchi Town, Gunma prefecture, Japan, were examined between 2005 and 2006. Facial skin condition was quantified by image analysis of standardized facial images. Hearing impairment was defined as a failure to hear a 30-dB signal at 1 kHz and a 40-dB signal at 4 kHz in the better ear in pure-tone audiometric tests. RESULTS: In men, facial wrinkle was positively associated with hearing impairment (for highest vs lowest: multivariate-adjusted odds ratio, 2.16; 95% confidence interval, 1.00-4.66; p for trend = .01). Stratified analysis by age, educational level, smoking status, sunscreen or foundation use, and diabetes showed results similar to those for men as a whole. This association was particularly pronounced in men with the low levels of antioxidants and without occupational noise exposure. We observed no apparent association in women. CONCLUSIONS: The results support the hypothesis that chronic sun exposure is a risk factor of hearing impairment.

Development of new in vivo imaging methodology and system for the rapid and quantitative evaluation of the visual appearance of facial skin firmness.

BACKGROUND/AIMS: Lack of firmness is a key sign of skin aging, but there are no methods for quantifying the firmness of facial skin as perceived visually. The objective of this study was to develop a convenient and accurate method for this purpose. METHODS: A compact imaging system (Magic Ring) was developed to capture images of facial skin. By using an image-analysis algorithm, the number of facial lines and their direction were analyzed to give an index termed the 'Ageless Vector'. Correlations between the Ageless Vector and visually perceived facial skin firmness, mechanical skin firmness (R5), and actual age were examined for 108 Asian females. The technique was also used to assess the effects of a 14-day skin-moisturization regimen in 47 Asian female volunteers. RESULTS: The Ageless Vector showed highly significant correlation with visually perceived skin firmness (r = 0.816) and significant correlation with mechanical skin firmness (R5) (r = -0.775). Skin moisturization significantly improved both the Ageless Vector (P < 0.05) and the visual grading of apparent skin firmness. CONCLUSIONS: We confirmed by two clinical studies that the imaging methodology using the Ageless Vector and the Magic Ring facial-imaging system was sufficiently sensitive to permit the measurement of apparent visible skin firmness and that it is an excellent method suitable for practical in vivo applications.

Skin wrinkling morphology changes suddenly in the early 30s.

BACKGROUND/PURPOSE: Does the morphology of wrinkles alter gradually with aging or suddenly at a certain age? On the basis of the theoretic wrinkle simulation of ideal skin, we have suggested that the wrinkle morphology suddenly changes from stratum corneum wrinkling to epidermis wrinkling; the former induces shallow fine furrows, and the latter induces deep prominent wrinkles. To examine the existence of drastic change in wrinkling morphology, we developed a new measurement system for facial skin wrinkling test. METHODS: The mechanical compression test of facial skin was carried out for 102 Japanese women aged 25-56 years. The test was performed on the right temple area skin, and the area of wrinkles induced by the compression was measured using a digital video camera. The rate of increase in wrinkle area during compression was defined as the skin wrinkling rate, and it was calculated for all subjects automatically by image processing. RESULTS: The test results showed that the skin wrinkling rate underwent a step increase at the age 33, which means that the wrinkling morphologies of young and old skins are completely different, and so it changes suddenly in the early 30s. CONCLUSION: A new skin measurement system was developed to validate our theory of wrinkle formation mechanism with aging. The results demonstrated the wrinkling morphology changes suddenly at early 30s.

Acne vulgaris in women: prevalence across the life span.

BACKGROUND: Acne vulgaris is a common skin disease with a large quality of life impact, characterized by comedones, inflammatory lesions, secondary dyspigmentation, and scarring. Although traditionally considered a disease of adolescence, reports suggest it is also a disease of adults, especially adult women. Our objectives were to determine acne prevalence in a large, diverse group of women and to examine acne by subtype and in relation to other skin findings, measurements, and lifestyle factors. METHODS: We recruited 2895 women aged 10-70 from the general population. Photographs were graded for acne lesions, scars, and dyspigmentation. Measurements were taken of sebum excretion and pore size, and survey data were collected. RESULTS: Of the women studied, 55% had some form of acne: 28% had mild acne, and 27% had clinical acne, 14% of which was primarily inflammatory and 13% of which was primarily comedonal. Acne peaked in the teenage years, but 45% of women aged 21-30, 26% aged 31-40, and 12% aged 41-50 had clinical acne. Women with inflammatory acne were younger than those with comedonal acne (p≤0.001), and postmenopausal women had less acne than age-matched peers (p<0.0001). Acne was associated with facial hirsutism (p=0.001), large pores (p=0.001), and sebum excretion (p=0.002). Smokers had more, primarily comedonal, acne than nonsmokers. CONCLUSIONS: The cross-sectional design precludes conclusions about progression of acne with age. Participation was restricted to women. The photographic nature of the study imposes general limitations. Techniques used in this study were not sufficiently sensitive to identify cases of subclinical acne. More than a quarter of women studied had acne, which peaked in the teens but continued to be prevalent through the fifth decade.

Characterization of comprehensive appearances of skin ageing: an 11-year longitudinal study on facial skin ageing in Japanese females at Akita.

BACKGROUND: Facial appearance is regarded as a typical index of ageing. However, people of the same age do not necessarily show the same degree of the facial appearance. The ageing of facial skin proceeds relatively slowly and therefore requires long-term follow-up to elucidate the mechanism of ageing changes. OBJECTIVES: The purpose of this study was to identify facial skin parameters contributing the subjective impression of the overall ageing and characterize the degree of skin ageing by a 11 year longitudinal skin monitoring. METHODS: One-hundred-eight healthy Japanese females excluded outside workers aged 5-64 at 1999, and lived in Akita, Japan till 2010 were enrolled. Facial images were collected to quantify various skin optical parameters. Skin colour, hydration and barrier function were measured with Chromameter, Corneometer and TEWAmeter, respectively. The visual evaluation of the overall facial skin ageing impression was also carried out. The skin parameters contributing visible impression of skin ageing were identified by variable importance in projection analysis, and the degree of facial skin ageing over 11 years was statistically classified by a cluster analysis. RESULTS: Facial skin parameters that comprehensively influenced visible skin ageing, including hyperpigmented spots, wrinkles and texture were studied. The Skin Ageing Score calculated from these three skin factors was used to classify the subjects into a mild, age-appropriate, and severe skin ageing group. The mild skin ageing group maintained significant better both skin optical and physical conditions. CONCLUSIONS: Variability and classification of the degree of facial skin ageing appearance were studied from this longitudinal research.

Antioxidant activities and skin hydration effects of rice bran bioactive compounds entrapped in niosomes.

Bioactive compounds [ferulic acid (F), gamma-oryzanol (O) and phytic acid (P)] in rice bran have been widely used as antioxidants in skin care products. However, one of the major problems of antioxidants is the deterioration of their activities during long exposure to air and light. Niosomes have been used to entrap many degradable active agents not only for stability improvement, but also for increasing skin hydration. The objective of this study was to determine antioxidant activities [by in vitro ORAC (oxygen radical absorbance capacity) and ex vivo lipid peroxidation inhibition assay] and in vivo human skin hydration effects of gel and cream containing the rice bran extracts entrapped in niosomes. Gel and cream containing the rice bran extracts entrapped in niosomes showed higher antioxidant activity (ORAC value) at 20-28 micromol of Trolox equivalents (TE) per gram of the sample than the placebo gel and cream which gave 16-18 micromolTE/g. Human sebum treated with these formulations showed more lipid peroxidation inhibition activity than with no treatment of about 1.5 times. The three different independent techniques including corneometer, vapometer and confocal Raman microspectroscopy (CRM) indicated the same trend in human skin hydration enhancement of the gel or cream formulations containing the rice bran extracts entrapped in niosomes of about 20, 3 and 30%, respectively. This study has demonstrated the antioxidant activities and skin hydration enhancement of the rice bran bioactive compounds when entrapped in niosomes and incorporated in cream formulations.

Reduction in the appearance of facial hyperpigmentation by topical N-undecyl-10-enoyl-L-phenylalanine and its combination with niacinamide.

OBJECTIVES: N-undecyl-10-enoyl-L-phenylalanine (Sepiwhite), N-undecylenoyl phenylalanine), a reported alpha-melanocyte-stimulating hormone (MSH) receptor antagonist, has been observed to reduce melanin production in cultured melanocytes. In other testing, niacinamide has been found to inhibit melanosome transfer in cultured cells and to reduce the appearance of hyperpigmented spots in clinical studies. Since these two agents function by different mechanisms, we conducted two studies to determine if their combination is more effective than niacinamide alone in reducing facial hyperpigmentation. METHODS: Two double-blind, 10-week (2-week washout + 8-week treatment), left-right randomized, split-face clinical studies were conducted. In one, two groups of Japanese women applied one of two pairs of test emulsion formulations: a vehicle control and a 5% niacinamide formulation (n= 40), or a 5% niacinamide and a 5% niacinamide plus 1%N-undecylenoyl phenylalanine formulation (n = 40). Each formulation was applied to the randomly assigned side of the face. In the second study, Caucasian women applied one of three emulsions: vehicle control, 5% niacinamide formulation, or combination 5% niacinamide plus 1%N-undecylenoyl-phenylalanine formulation to the randomly assigned side of the face (n = approximately 60 treatment sites per formulation). In both studies, hyperpigmented spots were evaluated at weeks 4 and 8 by quantitative image analysis. RESULTS: In both studies, the combination formulation was significantly more effective than the vehicle and the 5% niacinamide formulation in reducing the appearance of hyperpigmentation after 8 weeks. CONCLUSIONS: The combination of 5% niacinamide and 1%N-undecylenoyl phenylalanine is an effective anti-aging technology for use on facial skin.

Lifestyle factors and visible skin aging in a population of Japanese elders.

BACKGROUND: The number of studies that use objective and quantitative methods to evaluate facial skin aging in elderly people is extremely limited, especially in Japan. Therefore, in this cross-sectional study we attempted to characterize the condition of facial skin (hyperpigmentation, pores, texture, and wrinkling) in Japanese adults aged 65 years or older by using objective and quantitative imaging methods. In addition, we aimed to identify lifestyle factors significantly associated with these visible signs of aging. METHODS: The study subjects were 802 community-dwelling Japanese men and women aged at least 65 years and living in the town of Kurabuchi (Takasaki City, Gunma Prefecture, Japan), a mountain community with a population of approximately 4800. The facial skin condition of subjects was assessed quantitatively using a standardized facial imaging system and subsequent computer image analysis. Lifestyle information was collected using a structured questionnaire. The association between skin condition and lifestyle factors was examined using multivariable regression analysis. RESULTS: Among women, the mean values for facial texture, hyperpigmentation, and pores were generally lower than those among age-matched men. There was no significant difference between sexes in the severity of facial wrinkling. Older age was associated with worse skin condition among women only. After adjusting for age, smoking status and topical sun protection were significantly associated with skin condition among both men and women. CONCLUSIONS: Our study revealed significant differences between sexes in the severity of hyperpigmentation, texture, and pores, but not wrinkling. Smoking status and topical sun protection were significantly associated with signs of visible skin aging in this study population.

Reduction in the appearance of facial hyperpigmentation by topical N-acetyl glucosamine.

Glucosamine has been reported to inhibit melanin production in melanocyte culture. It thus has a potential to reduce hyperpigmentation via topical use. Due to stability limitations of glucosamine, we chose to clinically evaluate the stable derivative N-acetyl glucosamine (NAG). Based on in vitro Franz cell testing, NAG is a good skin penetrant. In an 8-week, double-blind, placebo-controlled, left-right randomized, split-face clinical test, topical 2% NAG reduced the appearance of facial hyperpigmentation. In a second clinical study involving the topical combination of 2% NAG with 4% niacinamide, an agent previously shown to be clinically active, the effect on hyperpigmentation was greater. Both of these agents are well tolerated by the skin. This high tolerance coupled with relative ease of formulation and stability in solution make NAG, especially in combination with niacinamide, a suitable cosmetic ingredient for use in skin care products dealing with issues of skin hyperpigmentation.

Ultrasound enhanced skin-lightening effect of vitamin C and niacinamide.

BACKGROUND/PURPOSE: Cutaneous hyperpigmentation occurs in multiple conditions. There is a strong need for the improvement of hyperpigmentation especially among Asian women. However, the effect of existing skin-lightening agents is not sufficient. One reason attributes to the limited capability of active agents to be delivered transepidermally. Ultrasound is one promising approach to enhance transepidermal transport. In this work, we investigate the effect of the use of high-frequency ultrasound together with coupling gel containing skin-lightening agents (ascorbyl glucoside and niacinamide) on facial hyperpigmentation in vivo in Japanese women. METHODS: The effect of ultrasound on the absorption of skin-lightening agents into the stratum corneum was evaluated in a tape-stripping method on human forearms in vivo. The skin efficacy was assessed in a facial clinical trial involving 60 subjects with hyperpigmentation in a paired design. Subjects were assigned to two groups, each group using two treatments (one on each facial cheek): (1) skin-lightening gel with ultrasound vs. no treatment or (2) skin-lightening gel with ultrasound vs. skin-lightening gel treatment. Changes in facial hyperpigmentation were objectively quantified by computer analysis and visual grading of high-resolution digital images of the face in addition to the subjective assessment via questionnaire. RESULTS: Ultrasound radiation enhanced the absorption of skin-lightening agents in the stratum corneum in a radiation-time-dependent manner. In the facial clinical trial, use of ultrasound radiation together with the skin-lightening gel significantly reduced facial hyperpigmented spots compared with both no treatment and skin-lightening gel alone after 4 weeks. CONCLUSIONS: The data suggest that use of high-frequency ultrasound radiation together with skin-lightening gel is effective to reduce hyperpigmentation via enhancing transepidermal transport of skin-lightening agents.

Development of a digital imaging system for objective measurement of hyperpigmented spots on the face.

BACKGROUND/AIMS: There are few available methods that can be used to quantify hyperpigmented spots on a wide area of the face. The objective of this study was to develop such a method through the use of specialized image analysis technologies. METHODS: This imaging system was composed of a source of illumination whose light intensity was controlled with a dimmer, a 3-CCD video camera connected to a computer, and a positioning device used to correctly align the subject's face. This system was calibrated by adjusting the light intensity, the camera position, and white balance of the camera in order to acquire reproducible images. Using a specific algorithm for the image analysis, this system enabled us to measure both the total area of hyperpigmented spots (mm2) and the averaged skin colour tone (quasi L*a*b*) excluding the area of those hyperpigmented spots in a wide area of the face. The accuracy and reproducibility of the system was validated using a mannequin head with six standard colour chips obtained from the GretagMacbeth ColorChecker, and brown-coloured patches that simulated hyperpigmented spots whose colour and area were both known. The correlation between CIE L*a*b* and quasi L*a*b* values was examined by conducting simultaneous measurements of the facial skin colour of 187 subjects with a tristimulus colourimeter (Minolta Chromameter) and our imaging system. RESULTS: The measurement errors in quasi L*a*b* values of colour chips and the area of brown patches were less than 2 and 5%, respectively, unless these chips or patches were located in the peripheral zone of the mannequin head. The variation in quasi L*a*b* values and the area of hyperpigmented spots (mm2) in five repeated measurements performed once every hour was less than 2%. There was an excellent correlation between the CIE L*a*b* and quasi L*a*b* values, and the Pearson's correlation coefficient between CIE L* and quasi L* value, for instance, was 0.908. CONCLUSIONS: : As long as the region to be evaluated is limited to the cheek and periorbital areas, this system enables automatic detection of hyperpigmented spots in a wide area of the face, as well as the correct measurement of those areas and determination of skin colours.

Utilization of a high-resolution digital imaging system for the objective and quantitative assessment of hyperpigmented spots on the face.

BACKGROUND/AIMS: The aim of this study was to quantify and confirm the efficacy of cosmetic formulations for hyperpigmented spots over a wide area of the face using a high quality digital imaging system that we developed. METHODS: A total of 120 Japanese female volunteers aged 25-60 years with solar lentigines were treated for 6 months with a skin lightening moisturizer (SLM, thereafter) containing 3% magnesium ascorbyl phosphate on one side of the face and vehicle on the other side. During the course of the study, facial images were collected by the image analysis to measure facial skin colour and the total area of hyperpigmented spots. The evaluation was also conducted by visual grading. Measurements were made before and 1, 3, and 6 months after starting the application, and again 6 months after discontinuing the treatment. Three similar clinical studies using the same protocol were repeated for up to one-month to confirm the reproducibility of the results and to examine seasonal variation. RESULTS: SLM significantly reduced the total area of hyperpigmented spots (P < 0.005) after one month of treatment compared to the vehicle, with no significant variation in facial skin colour tone in the areas outside the hyperpigmented spots. The results of the visual grading were consistent with those obtained by image analysis. The total area of hyperpigmented spots 6 months after discontinuing the treatment had returned to pre-treatment levels. The reproducibility of these clinical results was demonstrated in three follow-up studies. CONCLUSIONS: A high-resolution digital imaging method, combined with a split-face clinical protocol is sensitive enough to prove that SLM readily reduces hyperpigmented spots, while maintaining normal facial skin colour.