Vaccinium myrtillus L. extract associated with octocrylene, bisoctrizole, and titanium dioxide: in vitro and in vivo tests to evaluate safety and efficacy.

OBJECTIVE: The harmful effects induced by ultraviolet exposition and the significant increment in skin cancer diagnosis confirm the necessity to develop effective and safe sunscreens. Limited efficacy and cutaneous adverse reactions of traditional formulations drove the incorporation of natural extracts into multifunctional sunscreens. Vaccinium myrtillus L. extract (VME), that contains anthocyanins and flavonoids, is a potential candidate for such systems. METHODS: Considering that, we performed in vitro and in vivo tests to evaluate the sun protection factor (SPF), photostability, and safety of sunscreen samples containing VME. RESULTS: As main results, the SPF was reduced in both in vitro and in vivo evaluation in the presence of VME; nonetheless, the samples were photostable and safe. CONCLUSION: Further investigation is required to better understand the unexpected effects of VME over photoprotection, decreasing the SPF value. As a conclusion, even with interesting findings, we highlight the importance of case-by-case investigations to develop multifunctional bioactive sunscreens.

Dermocosmetic applications of microalgal pigments.

Among photosynthetic microorganisms, Cyanobacteria and Microalgae species have been highly studied thank to their high value-added compounds for several industrial applications. Thus, their production is increasing in the last decade to produce raw material for cosmetics. In fact, the daily routine includes the use of cosmetics and sunscreens to protect against the environmental changes, mainly the increment of ultraviolet (UV) radiation rate with a consequent skin damage and premature aging due to this overexposure. As it is well discussed, chemical UV filters are extensively incorporated into sunscreens formulas; however, they can induce allergenic reactions as well. For these reasons, some pigments derived from microalgae, such as astaxanthin, lutein, ß-carotene as well as other biocompounds are now well described in the literature as well as biotechnologically manufactured as natural ingredients to be incorporated into skin care products with multifunctional benefits even for sunscreen purposes. Hence, this investigation summarizes the recent studies about the main pigments from photosynthetic microorganisms' biomasses as well as their uses in dermocosmetics with novel attributes, such as anti-aging agents, makeups, skin lightening and whitening, among others.

Skin impacts from exposure to ultraviolet, visible, infrared, and artificial lights - a review.

Social distancing is conducive to grow the impact of artificial light in the daily life of the worldwide population with reported consequences to the skin. Sunlight is also essential for human development, indeed, solar radiation is composed of different types of wavelengths, which generate different skin effects. It can be divided into ultraviolet (UV), infrared (IR), and visible. UV radiation (UVA and UVB) has cutaneous biological effects ranging from photoaging, immunosuppression to melanoma formation, through the production of reactive oxygen species (ROS), inflammation and elevation of the energy state of organic molecules, changing the DNA structure. IR radiation reaches deeper layers of the skin and is also related to the generation of ROS, photoaging and erythema while visible light is responsible for generating ROS, pigmentation, cytokine formation, and matrix metallopeptidases (MMPs). Furthermore, artificial light could be harmful to the skin, as it can generate ROS, hyperpigmentation, and stimulate photoaging. Currently, we briefly summarized the cutaneous biological effects of sunlight, as well as artificial light on skin and remarked the opportunity of the evolution of current photoprotective formulas through new strategies with broad spectrum protection.

Analytical tools for urocanic acid determination in human samples: A review.

Urocanic acid is a chromophore found in the skin that has been identified as an important immunosuppressant and carcinogenesis mediator through its photoisomerization from trans to cis form induced by ultraviolet radiation. Research on analytical methods that explore urocanic acid isomerization is indispensable to fully understand the deleterious effects mediated by this biomarker. In this context, the current relevant analytical methods for determination of these isomers in human samples are summarized in this review. The methods presented here are applicable to human samples collected by noninvasive methods (or minimally invasive), encompassing an array of analytical techniques, including high-performance capillary electrophoresis, confocal Raman spectroscopy, gas chromatography, high-performance liquid chromatography, and mass spectrometry, among others. Developed high-performance liquid chromatography methods have proven to be advantageous, allowing noninvasive collections for in vivo analysis and the confocal Raman, specially, for real-time analysis. Among all these methods, high-performance liquid chromatography is the most investigated one with mass spectrometry or ultraviolet detector, and the mass spectrometry detector being the most studied in the last years, demonstrating high sensitivity, very low detection limits, and accurate identification, especially for clinical investigations.

In vivo SPF from multifunctional sunscreen systems developed with natural compounds-A review.

BACKGROUND: The use of sunscreens is mandatory, especially in countries with high ultraviolet (UV) incidence. In consequence, there has been a growing interest in using compounds from natural sources to develop new multifunctional products that protect human skin from the consequences of UV exposition. Even though there are in vitro methods to determine anti-UV efficacy, it is still required to test photoprotection activity on human skin to validate product performance. AIM AND METHODS: In this review, we summarized all reported clinical studies about sun protection factor (SPF) measurements of sunscreens with natural compounds. We also discussed the probable action mechanism of those actives. RESULTS: Herein, we provided an overview on recent studies concerning photoprotection activity of compounds from natural sources, for example, rutin, ferulic acid, caffeine, shea butter, and plant extracts, mainly presented in sunscreen systems with efficacy clinically established by SPF. CONCLUSION: Our review suggested that even when the in vivo SPF evaluation has inherent difficulties, it is essential to assure the real efficacy of sunscreens. Furthermore, the incorporation of natural compounds could enhance the in vivo SPF values of such sunscreens by different mechanisms. Finally, some compounds derived from natural resources with skin benefits could be used as "green"/natural UV filters that provide broad-spectrum sunscreens with further upgrading of the multifunctional dermocosmetic formulation to enhance aesthetics and even skin health.

(Bio)Technological aspects of microalgae pigments for cosmetics.

Photosynthetic microorganisms convert carbon dioxide and solar radiation into interesting bioactive compounds not yet entirely explored. Several species of microalgae are known to be rich in colored high-valuable components that, although remarkable, are poorly explored as natural sources of pigments for cosmetics. Pigments associated to photosynthetic activity include chlorophyll, ß-carotene, astaxanthin, xanthophylls, and phycobiliproteins, many of which have shown high potential as cosmetic actives due to their antioxidant, immune-enhancing, and anti-inflammatory properties. In the last decade, concern with a young and beautiful appearance has emerged, encouraging many consumers to use anti-aging cosmetics daily. As a result, the cosmetic market has been growing and evolving rapidly to meet consumer expectations. However, due to regular use and the sensitive nature of facial skin, local adverse reactions may often occur, such as irritation, sensitization, or photoreactions, and safety evaluation is mandatory prior to marketing. It is, therefore, understandable that new actives from natural sources, such as microalgae, are perceived as attractive alternatives for consumers who seek ingredients without allergenic potential. Thus, the cosmetic industry has recently started to explore the inclusion of compounds extracted from microalgae and cyanobacteria in innovative formulations. Herein, we revised nontraditional microalgae species for pigment production with cosmetic applications, indicating those that could also be considered potential ingredients for innovative cosmetics. KEY POINTS: • Extraction methods for pigments from photosynthetic microorganisms were compiled. • Innovative cosmeceuticals could be developed with natural pigments. • Safety features of such natural pigments were also described.

Application of Physicochemical Treatment Allows Reutilization of Arthrospira platensis Exhausted Medium : An Investigation of Reusing Medium in Arthrospira platensis Cultivation.

Since cultivations of Arthrospira platensis have a high water demand, it is necessary to develop treatment methods for reusing the exhausted medium that may prevent environmental problems and obtaining useful biomass. The exhausted Schlösser medium obtained from A. platensis batch cultivation in bench-scale mini-tanks was treated by varying concentrations of different coagulants, ferric chloride (6, 10, and 14 mg L-1) or ferric sulfate (15, 25, and 35 mg L-1) and powdered activated carbon (PAC, 30 and 50 mg L-1). Such treated effluent was restored with NaNO3 and reused in new cultivations of A. platensis performed in Erlenmeyer flasks. Reusing media through the cultivation of A. platensis showed satisfactory results, particularly in the medium treated with ferric chloride and PAC. The maximum cell concentration obtained in the flasks was 1093 mg L-1, which corresponded to the medium treated with ferric chloride (6 mg L-1) and PAC (30 mg L-1). This cellular growth was higher than in the medium treated with ferric sulfate and PAC, in which values of maximum cell concentration did not exceed 796 mg L-1. The cultures in the media after treatment did not modify the biomass composition. Thus, combined coagulation/adsorption processes, commonly used in water treatment processes, can be efficient and viable for treating exhausted medium of A. platensis, allowing the production of such biomass with the reduction of production cost and saving water.

Estudo do reaproveitamento de meio no cultivo de Arthrospira (Spirulina) platensis / Study of reuse of Arthrospira (Spirulina) platensis cultivation medium

Arthrosphira (Spirulina) platensis apresenta substâncias de interesse nas indústrias alimentícia, farmacêutica e cosmética. A produção industrial envolve uma quantidade muito grande de água e sua viabilidade deve contemplar o reuso do meio, visando uma diminuição de custos com nutrientes, bem como da poluição ambiental, tornando-se assim um processo sustentável. O presente trabalho teve como objetivo principal a avaliação do reaproveitamento do meio no cultivo de A. platensis usando tratamentos físico-químicos de floculação e adsorção. Para tanto, tal cianobactéria foi cultivada em fotobiorreator (FBR) tubular em processos de batelada alimentada e contínuo em intensidade luminosa de 120 µmol fótons m-2 s-1, sob controle de pH. Foram desenvolvidas técnicas de tratamento de meio de cultivo proveniente de processo descontínuo alimentado de A. platensis para a remoção de matéria orgânica (MO) e pigmentos (60 - 96 %), permitindo assim seu reuso em novos cultivos. A. platensis foi cultivada nos meios tratados utilizando frascos Erlenmeyer, com avaliação de parâmetros como concentração celular máxima (Xm), conteúdo de clorofila-a (Chl) e conteúdo de proteína na biomassa seca (PTN). No processo simultâneo de floculação e adsorção com carvão ativado em pó (CAP), foram testados dois agentes floculantes, cloreto férrico (F) e sulfato férrico (S) bem como diferentes tempos de contato. No processo simultâneo de floculação com F e adsorção com CAP, as condições ótimas foram: CAP = 24,4 mg L-1 e F = 20,3 mg L-1durante 30,4 min de tempo de contato; com obtenção de: Xm = 4893 ± 33 mg L-1, Chl = 24,3 ± 0,1 mg g-1, PTN = 36,1 ± 0,6 %. As condições ótimas de tratamento simultâneo de floculação com S e adsorção com CAP foram: CAP = 40,0 mg L-1 e S = 32,8 mg L-1 durante 36,1 min de tempo de contato, com obtenção de: Xm = 4863 ± 64 mg L-1, Chl = 24,5 ± 0,6 mg g-1, PTN = 60,1 ± 0,6 %. No processo sequencial de floculação com F seguido de adsorção com carvão ativado granulado (CAG), as condições ótimas foram atingidas com: CAG = 108,4 g e F = 10,0 mg L-1 durante 30,8 min de tempo de residência; obtendo-se: Xm = 3140 ± 77 mg L-1, Chl = 35,4 ± 0,2 mg g-1, PTN = 44,9 ± 0,0 %. Adicionalmente, os meios tratados nessas condições ótimas de cada tratamento, também foram testados em FBR tubulares, atingindo valores de Xm, Chl e PTN maiores do que os obtidos com meio padrão. Além disso, o processo simultâneo de cultivo celular em FBR tubulares e adsorção contínua do meio de cultivo exaurido em coluna de CAG removeu 51 - 79 % de MO e pigmentos. Foi demonstrado que uma proporção de 75 % de meio tratado no meio de alimentação não produz diminuição significativa de produtividade celular (PX) e os resultados foram: concentração celular em estado estacionário (Xs) de 1568 ± 15 mg L-1, PX = 941 mg L-1 d-1, PTN = 42,0 ± 0,6 %, com diminuição de 65 % no custo de meio de cultivo. Por fim, conclui-se que é viável a utilização de processos físico-químicos no tratamento de meio a ser reaproveitado no cultivo de A. platensis, inclusive em FBR tubulares, com apreciável incremento de clorofila-a e proteínas na biomassa obtida em meio tratado

Arthrospira (Spirulina) platensis have compounds of interest in the food, pharmaceutical and cosmetic industries. Industrial production involves high volumes of water and its viability should contemplate medium reuse, aiming to reduce not only nutrient costs, but also environmental pollution, thus becoming a sustainable process. This work had as main objective the evaluation of A. platensis culture medium reuse through the physicochemical treatments flocculation and adsorption. Thus, this cyanobacterium was cultivated in tubular photobioreactor (PBR) by fed-batch and continuous processes at light intensity 120 µmol photons m-2 s-1 under pH control. Treatment techniques were developed for culture medium from fed-batch process to properly removal of organic matter (OM) and pigments (60 - 96 %), thus allowing its reuse in new cultures. A. platensis was cultivated in treated medium using Erlenmeyer flasks, with the evaluation of parameters such as maximum cell concentration (Xm), chlorophyll content (Chl) and protein content in dry biomass (PTN). For simultaneous flocculation and adsorption with powdered activated carbon (PAC), two flocculants were used: ferric chloride (F) and ferric sulfate (S), as well as different contact times. In the simultaneous process of F flocculation and PAC adsorption, optimum conditions were: PAC = 24.4 mg L-1 and F = 20.3 mg L-1 for 30.4 min contact time; results were: Xm = 4893 ± 33 mg L-1, Chl = 24.3 ± 0.1 mg g-1, PTN = 36.1 ± 0.6 %. Optimal conditions in the simultaneous process of S flocculation and PAC adsorption were: PAC = 40.0 mg L-1 and S = 32.8 mg L-1 for 36.1 min contact time; results were: Xm = 4863 ± 64 mg L-1, Chl = 24.5 ± 0.6 mg g-1, PTN = 60.1 ± 0.6 %. In the sequential process of F flocculation followed by adsorption with granular activated carbon (GAC), optimal conditions were reached at GAC = 108.4 g and F = 10.0 mg L-1 for 30.8 min of residence time, at which Xm = 3140 ± 77 mg L-1, Chl = 35.4 ± 0.2 mg g-1 and PTNPTN = 44.9 ± 0.0 % were obtained. Moreover, medium treated at each optimal condition were also tested in tubular PBRs, reaching values of Xm, Chl and PTN higher than those obtained with standard medium. Furthermore, the simultaneous process of cell cultivation in tubular PBR and continuous adsorption of spent cultivation medium through GAC column removed 51 - 79 % of OM and pigments. It was showed that 75 % of treated medium in the feed medium does not cause significant decrease in cell productivity (PX) and results were: steady-state cell concentration (Xs) = 1568 ± 15 mg L-1, PX = 941 mg L-1 d-1, PTN = 42.0 ± 0.6 %, with 65 % reduction in medium price. At last, it can be inferred that the use of physicochemical processes in medium treatment is feasible for reuse in A. platensis cultivation, including that in tubular PBR, leading to considerable increase in chlorophyll and protein contents of the biomass obtained with treated medium