ABSTRACT
Case studies are needed to demonstrate the use of human-relevant New Approach Methodologies in cosmetics ingredient safety assessments. For read-across assessments, it is crucial to compare the target chemical with the most appropriate analog; therefore, reliable analog selection should consider physicochemical properties, bioavailability, metabolism, as well as the bioactivity of potential analogs. To complement in vitro bioactivity assays, we evaluated the suitability of three potential analogs for the UV filters, homosalate and octisalate, according to their in vitro ADME properties. We describe how technical aspects of conducting assays for these highly lipophilic chemicals were addressed and interpreted. There were several properties that were common to all five chemicals: they all had similar stability in gastrointestinal fluids (in which no hydrolysis to salicylic occurred); were not substrates of the P-glycoprotein efflux transporter; were highly protein bound; and were hydrolyzed to salicylic acid (which was also a major metabolite). The main properties differentiating the chemicals were their permeability in Caco-2 cells, plasma stability, clearance in hepatic models, and the extent of hydrolysis to salicylic acid. Cyclohexyl salicylate, octisalate, and homosalate were identified suitable analogs for each other, whereas butyloctyl salicylate exhibited ADME properties that were markedly different, indicating it is unsuitable. Isoamyl salicylate can be a suitable analog with interpretation for octisalate. In conclusion, in vitro ADME properties of five chemicals were measured and used to pair target and potential analogs. This study demonstrates the importance of robust ADME data for the selection of analogs in a read-across safety assessment.
ABSTRACT
Absorption through the skin of topically applied chemicals is relevant for both formulation development and safety assessment, especially in the early stages of development. However, the supply of human skin is limited, and the traditional in vitro methods are of low throughput. As an alternative, an artificial membrane-based Skin Parallel Artificial Membrane Permeability Assay (Skin-PAMPA) has been developed to mimic the permeability through the stratum corneum. In this study, this assay was used to measure the permeability of a model compound, 4-phenylethyl-resorcinol (PER), dissolved in 13 different solvents that are commonly used in cosmetic formulation development. The study was performed at concentrations close to the saturated solution of PER in each solvent to investigate the maximum thermodynamic potential of the solvents. The permeability of PER in selected solvents was also measured on ex vivo pig skin for comparison. Pig ear skin is an accepted alternative model of human skin. The permeability coefficient, which is independent of the concentration of the applied solution, showed a good correlation (R2 = 0.844) between the Skin-PAMPA and the pig skin permeation data. Our results support the use of the Skin-PAMPA to screen the suitability of different solvents for non-polar compounds at an early stage of formulation development.
