Physical and material properties of an emulsion-based lipstick produced via a continuous process.

OBJECTIVES: Water-in-oil emulsions in lipsticks could have the potential to improve moisturizing properties and deliver hydrophilic molecules to the lips. The aim of this work was to investigate the effect of a continuous process (scraped surface heat exchanger (SSHE) and pin stirrer (PS)) on the physical and material properties of an emulsion-based lipstick by altering the processing conditions of both the SSHE and PS. METHODS: Emulsion formation was achieved using a SSHE and PS. Emulsions were analysed using nuclear magnetic resonance restricted diffusion (droplet size), texture analysis and rheology (mechanical properties). RESULTS: Results showed that a higher impeller rotational velocity (IRV) (1500 r.p.m.) and a lower exit temperature (52°C) produce the smallest droplets (~ 4 µm), due to greater disruptive forces and a higher viscosity of the continuous phase. The addition of a PS reduces the droplet size (14-6 µm) if the SSHE has a low IRV (500 r.p.m.), due to greater droplet disruption as the emulsion passes through the PS unit. Results also show that if the jacket temperature of a SSHE is 65°C, so that crystallization occurs in both process and post-production, droplets can be integrated into the network resulting in a stiffer wax network (G' - 0.12, in comparison to 0.02 MPa). This is due to small crystals creating a shell around water droplets which can form connections with the continuous network forming a structured network. The addition of a pin stirrer can disrupt a formed network reducing the stiffness of the emulsion (0.3-0.05 MPa). CONCLUSION: This work suggests the potential use of a continuous process in producing an emulsion-based lipstick, particularly when wax crystals are produced in the process. Future work should consider the moisturizing or lubricating properties of wax continuous emulsions and the release of hydrophilic compounds from the aqueous phase.

Interfacial behaviour of sodium stearoyllactylate (SSL) as an oil-in-water pickering emulsion stabiliser.

The ability of a food ingredient, sodium stearoyllactylate (SSL), to stabilise oil-in-water (O/W) emulsions against coalescence was investigated, and closely linked to its capacity to act as a Pickering stabiliser. Results showed that emulsion stability could be achieved with a relatively low SSL concentration (≥0.1 wt%), and cryogenic-scanning electron microscopy (cryo-SEM) visualisation of emulsion structure revealed the presence of colloidal SSL aggregates adsorbed at the oil-water interface. Surface properties of SSL could be modified by altering the size of these aggregates in water; a faster decrease in surface tension was observed when SSL dispersions were subjected to high pressure homogenisation (HPH). The rate of SSL adsorption at the sunflower oil-water interface also increased after HPH, and a higher interfacial tension (IFT) was observed with increasing SSL concentration. Differential scanning calorimetry (DSC) enabled a comparison of the thermal behaviour of SSL in aqueous dispersions with SSL-stabilised O/W emulsions. SSL melting enthalpy depended on emulsion interfacial area and the corresponding DSC data was used to determine the amount of SSL adsorbed at the oil-water interface. An idealised theoretical interfacial coverage calculation based on Pickering emulsion theory was in general agreement with the mass of SSL adsorbed as predicted by DSC.

Competitive adsorption of surfactants and hydrophilic silica particles at the oil-water interface: interfacial tension and contact angle studies.

The effect of surfactants' type and concentration on the interfacial tension and contact angle in the presence of hydrophilic silica particles was investigated. Silica particles have been shown to have an antagonistic effect on interfacial tension and contact angle in the presence of both W/O and O/W surfactants. Silica particles, combined with W/O surfactant, have no effect on interfacial tension, which is only dictated by the surfactant concentration, while they strongly affect interfacial tension when combined with O/W surfactants. At low O/W surfactant, both particles and surfactant are adsorbed at the interface, modifying the interface structure. At higher concentration, interfacial tension is only dictated by the surfactant. By increasing the surfactant concentration, the contact angle that a drop of aqueous phase assumes on a glass substrate placed in oil media decreases or increases depending on whether the surfactant is of W/O or O/W type, respectively. This is due to the modification of the wettability of the glass by the oil or water induced by the surfactants. Regardless of the surfactant's type, the contact angle profile was dictated by both particles and surfactant at low surfactant concentration, whereas it is dictated by the surfactant only at high concentration.

O/W emulsions stabilised by both low molecular weight surfactants and colloidal particles: The effect of surfactant type and concentration.

The stability against coalescence of O/W emulsions in the presence of both surfactants and colloidal particles was investigated. In particular the effect of the surfactant type and concentration in these emulsifier mixtures on the O/W emulsions' stability was studied. Two types of surfactants were selected; those that have the ability to stabilise O/W emulsions on their own (O/W surfactants) and those that cannot (W/O surfactants). Tween 60 and Sodium Caseinate were selected as the O/W surfactants and lecithin as the W/O surfactant. Oil-in-water emulsions prepared with both particles and any of the three surfactants were stable against coalescence but, depending on the type of surfactant, the behaviour of the systems was found to depend on surfactant concentration. The droplet sizes of emulsions stabilised by mixed emulsifier systems containing low concentrations of O/W surfactants (Tween 60 or Sodium Caseinate) were smaller than those solely stabilised by either the surfactant or particles alone. At intermediate O/W surfactants concentrations, the droplet sizes of the emulsions increased. Further increases in the O/W surfactants' concentration, resulted in the complete removal of particles from the interface with the system now behaving as a surfactant-only stabilised emulsion. The behaviour of emulsions stabilised by emulsifier mixtures containing W/O surfactants was not dependent on the concentration of surfactant: no removal of particles was observed.

Mixed-emulsifier stabilised emulsions: Investigation of the effect of monoolein and hydrophilic silica particle mixtures on the stability against coalescence.

The stability against coalescence of vegetable oil-in-water "food grade" emulsions in the presence of both surfactant (monoolein) and colloidal particles (hydrophilic silica) has been studied and compared to the stability of systems where only the low molecular weight surfactant or the colloidal particles act as the emulsifier. No attempt was made to stop the emulsions from creaming and the data presented for coalescence stability is for droplets in the creamed layer. These are severe conditions as the contact time between droplets in such closed packed conditions is very high or even infinite. These mixed emulsifier systems were found to induce long-term emulsion stability against coalescence via a synergistic "two-part" mechanism in which both the surfactant and colloidal particles components have specific functions. The role of the surfactant is to initially "delay" the re-coalescence phenomena and induce further droplet break-up during emulsification by rapidly covering the new (naked) interface and reducing interfacial tension in order to allow the time for the silica particles to assemble at the oil/water interface and provide long-term stability. This dual manner by which mixed-emulsifier systems induced stability was found to depend on the concentrations of both monoolein and silica particles.

In vivo cytotoxicity of the prion protein fragment 106-126.

Transmissible spongiform encephalopathies are fatal neurological diseases characterized by astroglyosis, neuronal loss, and by the accumulation of the abnormal isoform of the prion protein. The amyloid prion protein fragment 106-126 (P106-126) has been shown to be toxic in cultured hippocampal neurons (). Here, we show that P106-126 is also cytotoxic in vivo. Taking advantage of the fact that retina is an integral part of the central nervous system, the toxic effect of the peptide was investigated by direct intravitreous injection. Aged solutions of P106-126 induced apoptotic-mediated retinal cell death and irreversibly altered the electrical activity of the retina. Neither apoptosis nor electroretinogram damages were observed with freshly diluted P106-126, suggesting that the toxicity is linked to the aggregation state of the peptide. The retina provides a convenient in vivo system to look for potential inhibitors of cytotoxicity associated with spongiform encephalopathies.

Selective tolerization of Th1-like cells after nasal administration of a cholera toxoid-LACK conjugate.

Recent reports have suggested that after infection of BALB/c mice with Leishmania major, CD4+ T cells responding to a single antigen, LACK (Leishmania homologue of receptors for activated C kinase), drive the differentiation of other responding T cells to the Th2 phenotype and so allow lesion development to occur. Transgenic mice expressing LACK in the thymus are tolerant to LACK and thus resolve infection with L. major. The oral administration of soluble protein to mice has been shown to result in the peripheral tolerance of antigen-specific CD4+ T cells. We therefore sought to tolerize LACK reactive T cells in non-transgenic BALB/c mice in order to determine the effectiveness of this tolerization approach as an alternative to standard vaccination protocols against L. major infection. Surprisingly, oral or nasal administration of up to 8 mg of recombinant LACK did not affect the outcome of infection. We therefore conjugated LACK to cholera toxin beta subunit (CTB-LACK) which has previously been shown to improve the effectiveness of oral tolerance to conjugated antigens. Nasal administration of as little as 12 microg of CTB-LACK effectively diminished the capacity of mice to mount a subsequent proliferative response to LACK and further delayed the onset of lesion development in infected mice. However, pretreatment with CTB-LACK did not prevent the eventual onset and progression of disease in these mice. An examination of cytokine responsiveness to LACK after tolerization with CTB-LACK revealed that while the Th1 response to LACK was suppressed, Th2 cytokine production was unaffected. Similar experiments using an ovalbumin-CTB conjugate suggested that this selective tolerance of Th1 cells was not specific to the LACK protein but may be an effect common to CTB-conjugated proteins.