Characteristic Photoprotective Molecules from the Sphagnum World: A Solution-Phase Ultrafast Study of Sphagnic Acid.

A natural UV-absorbing chromophore extracted from sphagnum mosses, sphagnic acid, is proposed as a new natural support to chemical UV filters for use in cosmetic applications. Sphagnic acid is structurally related to the cinnamate family of molecules, known for their strong UV absorption, efficient non-radiative decay, and antioxidant properties. In this study, transient electronic absorption spectroscopy is used, in conjunction with steady-state techniques, to model the photodynamics following photoexcitation of sphagnic acid in different solvent systems. Sphagnic acid was found in each system to relax with lifetimes of ~200 fs and ~1.5 ps before generating a cis-isomer photoproduct. This study helps to elucidate the photoprotective mechanism of a new potential natural support to sunscreens, from a unique plant source.

From Coffee Waste to Active Ingredient for Cosmetic Applications.

Coffee silverskin (CS) is the thin epidermis covering and protecting the coffee bean and it represents the main by-product of the coffee roasting process. CS has recently gained attention due to its high content in bioactive molecules and the growing interest in valuable reutilization of waste products. Drawing inspiration from its biological function, here its potential in cosmetic applications was investigated. CS was recovered from one of the largest coffee roasters located in Switzerland and processed through supercritical CO2 extraction, thereby generating coffee silverskin extract. Chemical profiling of this extract revealed the presence of potent molecules, among which cafestol and kahweol fatty acid esters, as well as acylglycerols, ß-sitosterol and caffeine. The CS extract was then dissolved in organic shea butter, yielding the cosmetic active ingredient SLVR'Coffee™. In vitro gene expression studies performed on keratinocytes showed an upregulation of genes involved in oxidative stress responses and skin-barrier functionality upon treatment with the coffee silverskin extract. In vivo, our active protected the skin against Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS)-induced irritation and accelerated its recovery. Furthermore, this active extract improved measured as well as perceived skin hydration in female volunteers, making it an innovative, bioinspired ingredient that comforts the skin and benefits the environment.

Unravelling the Photoprotection Properties of Garden Cress Sprout Extract.

Plants, as with humans, require photoprotection against the potentially damaging effects of overexposure to ultraviolet (UV) radiation. Previously, sinapoyl malate (SM) was identified as the photoprotective agent in thale cress. Here, we seek to identify the photoprotective agent in a similar plant, garden cress, which is currently used in the skincare product Detoxophane nc. To achieve this, we explore the photodynamics of both the garden cress sprout extract and Detoxophane nc with femtosecond transient electronic absorption spectroscopy. With the assistance of liquid chromatography-mass spectrometry, we determine that the main UV-absorbing compound in garden cress sprout extract is SM. Importantly, our studies reveal that the photoprotection properties of the SM in the garden cress sprout extract present in Detoxophane nc are not compromised by the formulation environment. The result suggests that Detoxophane nc containing the garden cress sprout extract may offer additional photoprotection to the end user in the form of a UV filter booster.

Dereplication of Natural Extracts Diluted in Glycerin: Physical Suppression of Glycerin by Centrifugal Partition Chromatography Combined with Presaturation of Solvent Signals in 13C-Nuclear Magnetic Resonance Spectroscopy.

For scientific, regulatory, and safety reasons, the chemical profile knowledge of natural extracts incorporated in commercial cosmetic formulations is of primary importance. Many extracts are produced or stabilized in glycerin, a practice which hampers their characterization. This article proposes a new methodology for the quick identification of metabolites present in natural extracts when diluted in glycerin. As an extension of a 13C nuclear magnetic resonance (NMR) based dereplication process, two complementary approaches are presented for the chemical profiling of natural extracts diluted in glycerin: A physical suppression by centrifugal partition chromatography (CPC) with the appropriate biphasic solvent system EtOAc/CH3CN/water 3:3:4 (v/v/v) for the crude extract fractionation, and a spectroscopic suppression by presaturation of 13C-NMR signals of glycerin applied to glycerin containing fractions. This innovative workflow was applied to a model mixture containing 23 natural metabolites. Dereplication by 13C-NMR was applied either on the dry model mixture or after dilution at 5% in glycerin, for comparison, resulting in the detection of 20 out of 23 compounds in the two model mixtures. Subsequently, a natural extract of Cedrus atlantica diluted in glycerin was characterized and resulted in the identification of 12 metabolites. The first annotations by 13C-NMR were confirmed by two-dimensional NMR and completed by LC-MS analyses for the annotation of five additional minor compounds. These results demonstrate that the application of physical suppression by CPC and presaturation of 13C-NMR solvent signals highly facilitates the quick chemical profiling of natural extracts diluted in glycerin.

Multiple solvent signal presaturation and decoupling artifact removal in 13C{1H} nuclear magnetic resonance.

The analysis by proton-decoupled carbon-13 nuclear magnetic resonance spectroscopy of samples dissolved in solvents presenting strong multiple resonances can be facilitated by the suppression of these resonances by multisite presaturation. The advantage drawn from this operation is the elimination of the possible artifacts that arise from the solvent signals in non-optimized decoupling conditions. Solvent presaturation was implemented on glycerol, 1,2-propanediol, 1,3-propanediol, 1,2-butanediol, and 1,3-butanediol with at least 94 % on-resonance efficiency and a bandwidth of less than 50 Hz measured at 50 % signal intensity decrease. The experimental measurement of the signal suppression bandwidth leads to unexpected selectivity profiles for close-frequency resonances. Computer resolution of the Bloch equations during multisite presaturation provide an insight into the origin of the observed profile perturbations.

Acefylline activates filaggrin deimination by peptidylarginine deiminases in the upper epidermis.

BACKGROUND: Peptidylarginine deiminases (PADs) catalyze deimination (or citrullination), a calcium-dependent post-translational modification involved in several physiological processes and human diseases, such as rheumatoid arthritis and cancer. Deimination of filaggrin (FLG) by PAD1 and PAD3 during the last steps of keratinocyte differentiation is a crucial event for the epidermis function and homeostasis. This allows the complete degradation of FLG, leading to the production of free amino acids and their derivatives that are essential for epidermal photoprotection and moisturizing of the stratum corneum. OBJECTIVE: To increase the flux of this catabolic pathway, we searched for activators of PADs. METHODS: A large chemical library was screened first in silico and then by using an automated assay based on an indirect colorimetric measurement of recombinant human PAD activity. Potential activators were then confirmed using a recombinant human FLG as a substrate, and secondly after topical application at the surface of three-dimensional reconstructed human epidermis. RESULTS: The data obtained after the library screening pointed to xanthine derivatives as potential PAD activators. Among seven xanthine derivatives tested at 50-300µM, caffeine, theobromine and acefylline proved to be the most potent enhancers of in vitro deimination of FLG by PAD1 and PAD3. After topical application of a gel formulation containing 3% acefylline at the surface of reconstructed epidermis, immunoblotting analysis showed an increase in the total amount of deiminated proteins, and confocal microscopy showed an enhanced deimination in the stratum corneum. This demonstrated the activation of PADs in living cells. CONCLUSION: As a PAD activator, acefylline will be useful to study the role of deimination and could be proposed to increase or correct the hydration of the cornified layers of the epidermis.

Evaluation of antioxidant properties of monoaromatic derivatives of pulvinic acids.

The natural mushroom pigment Norbadione A and three other pulvinic acids were shown by our group to display very efficient antioxidant properties by comparison with a collection of potent molecules including catechols, flavonoids, stilbenes, or coumarins. Despite numerous publications on robust and straightforward synthetic access to pulvinic acids by us and others, no report has been made to unravel the structure-activity relationships that govern the striking antioxidant activity. Herein is presented the synthesis of 18 diverse pulvinic acid derivatives and the study of their radical scavenging capacities by four different assays. The influence of each of the two phenyl rings, of their substituents and of the lateral chain on the antioxidant properties, was explored to reveal a simplified structure of excellent activity. These results, along with the absence of cytotoxicity, make the synthesized compounds interesting to evaluate for several biological activities and especially for anti-inflammatory effects and skin protection against UV induced oxidative stress.

Synthesis of pulvinic derivatives via TBAF-mediated regioselective opening of an unsymmetrical monoaromatic pulvinic dilactone.

The synthesis of the monoaromatic pulvinic dilactone 1 from a tetronic acid derivative is reported. The reaction of 1 with various amines was found to provide the two pulvinamides regioisomers 2a and 2b. Using tetrabutylammonium fluoride (TBAF) as an activator, pulvinamides 2a could be obtained with excellent regioselectivities and good yields. Additions of alcohols to 1 are also studied, leading to similar observations.

Stereoselective construction of the tricyclic core of neoliacinic acid.

The tricyclic core of the plant-derived sesquiterpene natural product neoliacinic acid was synthesized using a novel synthetic strategy. The pivotal synthetic transformations are construction of the key bicyclic ether-bridged intermediate by sequential deployment of metal carbenoid C-H insertion and ylide-forming reactions and installation of the lactone portion of neoliacinic acid by an acid-catalyzed intramolecular ring-opening reaction of an epoxide with a carboxylic acid.

New spiro-piperidines as 5-HT2B receptor antagonists.

A functional screening highlighted a series of spiro-piperidines as 5-HT2B receptor antagonists. Preliminary structure-activity relationship has been explored driving to potent antagonists (IC50 = 1 nM) and indicating directions for further explorations.

Discovery of protein-protein binding disruptors using multi-component condensations small molecules.

A series of small molecule compounds interfering with the binding process of VEGF and NRP1 has been identified and further optimized. Full synthetic details as well as SAR are reported which demonstrate that expeditious MCC-based syntheses may lead to valuable molecules addressing challenging targets such as protein-protein interactions. Preliminary functional assay data confirm that these compounds may be further developed toward drug candidates.

Efficient Total Synthesis of (-)-Ilimaquinone.

The total synthesis of (-)-ilimaquinone, a metabolite isolated from sea sponges, is described. The key step of the synthesis is the attachment of the quinone moiety to the drimane skeleton. Alkylation of enone 11 obtained in four steps from the readily available diketone 8, with tetramethoxybenzyl bromide 15 as the alkylating agent, led to addition product 16 in excellent yield. The presence of the tetramethoxybenzyl group induced stereoselective hydrogenation of the exo olefin 18, leading to the required isomer in a 9:1 ratio. Treatment of compound 21 with ceric ammonium nitrate (CAN) afforded formation of the quinone and deprotection of only one methyl ether in one step to furnish the desired ilimaquinone 1.