Understanding the dandruff scalp before and after treatment: an in vivo Raman spectroscopic study.

OBJECTIVES: To study and characterize the stratum corneum (SC) of dandruff scalp using in vivo Raman spectroscopy, to study how it compares with the non-dandruff scalp and to see the effect of treatment with a zinc pyrithione (ZnPTO)-based anti-dandruff shampoo. METHODS: The scalp skin was measured using a recently developed in vivo Raman probe. This method allows the inherent molecular components of the SC to be measured in vivo and confocally with depth, in particular the levels of natural moisturizing factors (NMF), lipids, lactic acid, urea and water. RESULTS: Depth-profile data for the skin components in dandruff SC in vivo are shown for the first time. The dandruff SC has lower NMF than the non-dandruff SC (0.16 compared with 0.39 a.u.), lower hydration, elevated levels of urea and lower levels of lactic acid. Treatment with an anti-dandruff shampoo containing 1% ZnPTO substantially restores the levels of each of these components close to the non-dandruff levels. Further to this, it is shown that sebum penetrates deeper into dandruff SC and at higher levels compared with non-dandruff SC. The levels of sebum localized within the SC are also brought closer to those of the non-dandruff condition after ZnPTO treatment. CONCLUSION: The in vivo Raman probe has allowed the direct measurement of dandruff-affected skin in situ for the first time. It has been shown that the dandruff SC is different from that of the non-dandruff scalp and that it is changed by treatment with shampoo containing ZnPTO and brought towards the characteristics of non-dandruff scalp. It offers novel insights into how the nature of a healthy scalp should be defined.

Understanding glycoprotein behaviours using Raman and Raman optical activity spectroscopies: characterising the entanglement induced conformational changes in oligosaccharide chains of mucin.

We illustrate the great potential of Raman and ROA spectroscopies for investigating the structure and organisation of glycoproteins and the complex matrices they can form. In combination these spectroscopic techniques are sensitive to changes in conformation revealing details of secondary and tertiary structures, probing hydrogen bonding interactions, as well as resolving side chain orientation and the absolute configuration of chiral substructures. To demonstrate this potential we have characterised the structural changes in a complex glycoprotein, mucin. Spectral changes were observed during the entanglement transition as the mucin concentration was increased. By applying two-dimensional correlation analysis (2DCos) to the ROA and Raman concentration-dependent spectral sets delicate transitions in mucin conformation could also be determined. From ~20-40 mg/ml conformational transitions assigned mainly to the sugar N-acetyl-d-galactosamine (GalNAc), which is the linking saccharide unit to the protein backbone, were monitored. Further changes in local oligosaccharide conformation above 40 mg/ml were also monitored, together with other structural transitions observed in the protein core, particularly ß-structure formation. Consequently, these spectral techniques were shown to monitor the formation of transient entanglements formed by brush-brush interactions between oligosaccharide combs of mucin molecules identifying changes in both carbohydrate and protein moieties. This work clearly shows how these methods can be used to elucidate fresh insights into the complex behaviour of these large complex molecules.

Measuring the penetration of a skin sensitizer and its delivery vehicles simultaneously with confocal Raman spectroscopy.

Among the factors determining the propensity of a chemical to induce skin allergy are the penetration into skin and the kinetics of ingress. Confocal Raman spectroscopy can provide such information as it enables direct, spatially resolved measurement of the skin and of any chemical uptake. Several chemicals can be monitored at once, and the method is non-destructive (light in, light out) so that the skin can be kept intact for repeated and continuous measurement. Raman spectroscopy was used to follow the penetration of 2.5 weight percent trans-cinnamaldehyde and its delivery vehicle into skin in vitro, up to 24 h after topical application. A custom-made Bronaugh-type diffusion cell that was suitable for the Raman experiment was used. Four different vehicles were tested: absolute ethanol, 50% aqueous ethanol, propylene glycol and acetone:olive oil (4:1); these gave different time scales for cinnamaldehyde penetration. The acetone:olive oil vehicle phase-separated on the skin surface and the cinnamaldehyde penetrated at different rates in the different phases, which may be of significance since this is the preferred solvent for the local lymph node assay (an in vivo animal test used to generate hazard information on skin sensitization). In conclusion, the Raman method gives valuable detailed information on chemical ingress, clearly differentiates between different delivery rates and allows solvent monitoring alongside the chemical of interest.

Interaction of the acid soap of triethanolamine stearate and stearic acid with water.

Stearic acid and triethanolamine (TEA) in a molar ratio of 2:1 were mixed in aqueous solution at 80 degrees C and subsequently cooled to ambient temperature. The structural evolution of the resultant sample during storage was characterized by using light microscopy, Cryo-SEM, differential scanning calorimetery, pH, infrared spectroscopy, elemental analysis, and simultaneous small and wide-angle X-ray diffraction. It was found that a lamellar liquid crystalline phase was formed when stearic acid and TEA solution were mixed at 80 degrees C and multilamellar spheres of a few microns diameter were formed initially after cooling. A hydrolysis reaction (i.e., the reverse reaction of neutralization between stearic acid and TEA) occurred thereafter that caused the breakdown of the lamellar gel phase and the formation of platelet stearic acid crystals. Three polymorphs of stearic acid (defined following previous work as the A, C, and E forms) were formed as the result of hydrolysis reaction, which gave rise to a strong optically pearlescent appearance.

Acid soap and phase behavior of stearic acid and triethanolamine stearate.

Crystals of partially neutralized stearic acid with triethanolamine (TEA) were prepared by mixing these two materials above 80 degrees C and then cooling. The crystalline composition and the structure and melting behavior of the resultant products were characterized with small-angle and wide-angle X-ray diffraction, thermal analysis, microscopy, and infrared spectroscopy. It was discovered that an acid-soap complex of 2:1 fixed stoichiometric ratio exists between stearic acid and TEA stearate. A binary phase diagram of stearic acid and TEA soap is built based on the experimental results; this is the first published record of a binary phase diagram for amine-based soap. Its behavior is significantly different from that of binary systems of fatty acid and alkali soap.

The physico-chemical characterization of a boiling stable antifreeze protein from a perennial grass (Lolium perenne).

We have characterized a cold-induced, boiling stable antifreeze protein. This highly active ice recrystallization inhibition protein shows a much lower thermal hysteresis effect and displays binding behavior that is uncharacteristic of any AFP from fish or insects. Ice-binding studies show it binds to the (1 0 1 0) plane of ice and FTIR studies reveal that it has an unusual type of highly beta-sheeted secondary structure. Ice-binding studies of both glycosylated and nonglycosylated expressed forms indicate that it adsorbs to ice through the protein backbone. These results are discussed in light of the currently proposed mechanisms of AFP action.

Reduced barrier efficiency in axillary stratum corneum.

The skin of the axilla is cosmetically important with millions of consumers daily applying antiperspirant/deodorant products. Despite this, we know virtually nothing about axillary skin or how antiperspirant (AP) use impacts upon it. To characterize the axillary stratum corneum and determine whether this is a unique skin type, we have looked at stratum corneum composition and function, particularly its barrier properties, and compared it with other body sites. Transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and corneosurfametry (CSM) revealed a reduced barrier function in the axilla. HPTLC analysis of the stratum corneum lipids demonstrated statistically elevated levels of fatty acids, ceramides, and particularly cholesterol in the axilla. Both ceramide and cholesterol did not appear to change with depth, indicating that they were predominantly of stratum corneum origin. On the other hand, at least some of the fatty acid had a sebaceous origin. We hypothesized that the reduced barrier function might be owing to the changes in the crucial ceramide : cholesterol ratio. To address this, we used a combination of attenuated total reflectance-Fourier-transformed infrared spectroscopy (ATR-FTIR) with cyanoacrylate sampling. These results demonstrated more ordered lipid-lamellae phase behaviour in the axilla, suggesting that the elevated cholesterol might form crystal microdomains within the lipid lamellae, allowing an increase in water flux. Since an exaggerated application of antiperspirant had no effect upon the axilla barrier properties, it is concluded that this region of skin physiologically has a reduced barrier function.