Overview of proficiency testing results for the in vivo determination of sun protection factor.

A sunscreen product is allowed to be marketed if a protection is provided against ultraviolets (UV) including UVA rays and UVB rays expressed by the sun protection factor (SPF). UVB is radiation that is in the region of the ultraviolet spectrum which extends from about 290 to 320 nm in wavelength and that is primarily responsible for sunburn, ageing of the skin, and the development of skin cancer. Thus, since April 2009, the Bureau Interprofessionnel d'Etudes Analytiques (BIPEA) set up a proficiency testing scheme (PTS) for the determination of SPF in vivo of sunscreen products according to ISO 24444 standard [Cosmetics - Sun protection test methods - in vivo determination of the sun protection factor (SPF)] to evaluate the analytical performances of laboratories on these analyses. This PTS gathers twenty-six laboratories around the world with one trial a year. For each test, the statistical treatment of the data is performed according to ISO 13528 standard [Statistical methods for use in proficiency testing by interlaboratory comparison]. The assigned and tolerance values are calculated from the participants' data and the performances of the laboratories are evaluated individually and collectively according to ISO 17043 standard [Conformity assessment - General requirements for proficiency testing]. This paper presents the design of the PT program, its development, and an attentive analysis of laboratories results, which highlight the global performances obtained by laboratories on this type of analysis. The evaluation of the results shows, in fact, a relatively constant dispersion of data since the implementation of the PT program (variability between 10% and 50%).

Un produit solaire peut être commercialisé s'il offre une protection contre les ultraviolets (UV), y compris les rayons UVA et UVB, exprimée par le facteur de protection solaire (FPS). Les UVB sont des rayonnements qui se situent dans la région du spectre ultraviolet dont la longueur d'onde s'étend d'environ 290 à 320 nm et qui sont principalement responsables des coups de soleil, du vieillissement de la peau et du développement du cancer de la peau. Ainsi, depuis avril 2009, le Bureau Interprofessionnel d'Etudes Analytiques (BIPEA) a mis en place un système d'essais d'aptitude pour la détermination du FPS in vivo des produits de protection solaire selon la norme ISO 24444 [Cosmétiques ­ Méthodes d'essai de protection solaire ­ Détermination in vivo du facteur de protection solaire (FPS)] afin d'évaluer les performances analytiques des laboratoires sur ces analyses. Ce programme d'essais d'aptitude regroupe vingt­six laboratoires dans le monde à raison d'un essai par an. Pour chaque essai, le traitement statistique des données est effectué selon la norme ISO 13528 [Méthodes statistiques utilisées dans les essais d'aptitude par comparaison interlaboratoires]. Les valeurs assignées et les valeurs de tolérance sont calculées à partir des données des participants et les performances des laboratoires sont évaluées individuellement et collectivement conformément à la norme ISO 17043 [Évaluation de la conformité ­ Exigences générales concernant la compétence des organisateurs d'essais d'aptitude]. Cet article présente la conception du programme d'essais d'aptitude, son développement, et une analyse attentive des résultats des laboratoires, qui mettent en évidence les performances globales obtenues par les laboratoires sur ce type d'analyse. L'évaluation des résultats montre en effet une dispersion des données relativement constante depuis la mise en place du programme (variabilité entre 10% et 50%).

Nuclear and Urinary Measurements Show the Efficacy of Sun-Protection Factor 50+ Sunscreen against DNA Photoproducts upon Real-Life Recreational Exposure.

Sunscreens have been shown to protect against UVR-induced DNA damage in human skin under laboratory conditions. We presently extended these observations to real-life conditions in volunteers after their ordinary exposure habits during summer holidays. Volunteers were randomly assigned to a control group and an educated group supplied with a SPF ≥50 sunscreen and receiving instructions for use. A questionnaire was used to determine the extent of exposure. No difference in average solar UVR exposure was found between the two groups. DNA photoprotection was first assessed by, to our knowledge, a previously unreported noninvasive assay on the basis of the quantification of pyrimidine dimers released by DNA repair in urine. Damage was also quantified in the nuclear DNA extracted from the roof of suction blisters collected after recreational exposure. The urinary concentration of photoproducts was significantly higher in the control than in the educated group. The same trend was observed for the level of photoproducts in the DNA from suction blisters. The unambiguous observation of an efficient photoprotection against DNA damage afforded by sunscreen under real-life conditions provides strong support for the efficiency of the sunscreens. In addition, the results validate the use of urinary DNA photoproducts as a noninvasive assay applicable to photoprotection.

In vivo evaluation of sunscreen application by multispectral imaging: A new tool for educating sunscreen users.

BACKGROUND: The sun protection factor (SPF) of sunscreens is evaluated using standardized protocols based on the application of 2 mg/cm2 of product. However, the amount of product applied by sunscreen users in real life is likely to be much lower. OBJECTIVES: To evaluate a new multispectral imaging approach for determining the actual quantity of sunscreen applied by users and to assess the benefits of an application guide for the use of an SPF 50+ sunscreen. MATERIALS AND METHODS: Analyses of the reflectance spectra obtained from multispectral images were used to determine the actual dose of sunscreen that 26 healthy volunteers applied to their face following three application modalities: a single application, reapplication after 30 min, and application according to an instruction guide. RESULTS: Without the application guide, volunteers applied an average of 1.04 mg/cm2 of sunscreen during the single application and 1.23 mg/cm2 during the repeated application. With the application guide, the amount of sunscreen applied was 1.45 mg/cm2 : around 40% higher than during the single application. Spreading of the sunscreen was also less uniform with the unguided single application than with the other application modalities. CONCLUSIONS: This study showed that the multispectral imaging approach can be used to measure the amount of sunscreen applied in vivo. Our findings confirmed that the standard dose used for SPF measurements and other sunscreen tests is far higher than that applied by users in practice. Providing users with precise guidelines could increase the amount of sunscreen applied, resulting in more adequate photoprotection.

DNA photoproducts released by repair in biological fluids as biomarkers of the genotoxicity of UV radiation.

UV-induced formation of photoproducts in DNA is a major initiating event of skin cancer. Consequently, many analytical tools have been developed for their quantification in DNA. In the present work, we extended our previous liquid chromatography-mass spectrometry method to the quantification of the short DNA fragments containing photoproducts that are released from cells by the repair machinery. We designed a robust protocol including a solid-phase extraction step (SPE), an enzymatic treatment aimed at releasing individual photoproducts, and a liquid chromatography method combining on-line SPE and ultra-high-performance liquid chromatography for optimal specificity and sensitivity. We also added relevant internal standards for a better accuracy. The method was validated for linearity, repeatability, and reproducibility. The limits of detection and quantification were found to be in the fmol range. The proof of concept of the use of excreted DNA repair products as biomarkers of the genotoxicity of UV was obtained first in in vitro studies using cultured HaCat cells and ex vivo on human skin explants. Further evidence was obtained from the detection of pyrimidine dimers in the urine of human volunteers collected after recreational exposure in summer. An assay was designed to quantify the DNA photoproducts released from cells within short fragments by the DNA repair machinery. These oligonucleotides were isolated by solid-phase extraction and enzymatically hydrolyzed. The photoproducts were then quantified by on-line SPE combined with UHPLC-MS/MS with isotopic dilution.

Positive change in hand care habits using therapeutic patient education in chronic hand eczema.

BACKGROUND: Chronic hand eczema (CHE) is a major burden for patients. Maintenance treatment involves prevention measures limiting detrimental behaviour and aggravating factors. OBJECTIVE: To evaluate the effect of a standardised care program including therapeutic patient education (TPE) on hand care behaviours, clinical severity, quality of life, and work productivity. METHODS: A single-centre study was conducted prospectively. Together with the prescription of a topical steroid, patients participated in individual TPE sessions. Evaluations were performed initially and repeated three months after the therapeutic intervention. They included a structured analysis of hand care behaviours, the assessment of the mTLSS (modified Total Lesion Symptom Score), DLQI (Dermatology Life Quality Index), and WPAI (Work Productivity and Activity Impairment). RESULTS: Seventy-one patients were included (30 men, 42.3%). Three months after completion of the standardised care program, hand care behaviours such as hand washing and rinsing, hand drying, wearing protective gloves, using moisturizing creams, and following specific treatments and recommendations for CHE improved significantly in the 58 patients who completed the study and were associated with a significant improvement in the mTLSS, DLQI, and WPAI scores. CONCLUSIONS: TPE helps patients change their hand care behaviours and adopt skin protection measures, and may improve CHE severity, quality of life, and work productivity.

Efficacy of D-pigment dermocosmetic lightening product for solar lentigo lesions of the hand: A randomized controlled trial.

Solar lentigo, benign lesions which mostly appear on chronically, sun-exposed surfaces, are associated with ageing. Patients are increasingly requesting a more uniform skin texture, especially for hands. Treatment options include dermoabrasion, intense pulsed light, cryotherapy, peelings, and laser therapy. Topical compounds can be employed, in alternative or associated with dermatologic procedures. The current study was designed to evaluate solar lentigo hyperpigmentation, skin architecture and clinician and patient assessments comparing a dermocosmetic lightening product (active) with a moisturizing product (control) according to clinical, digital and subjective analyses in 72 lesions over 12-month follow up period. Statistically significant differences were observed between the lesions treated with the active compared to the control in terms of papillary brightness (p = 0.03) and contrast (p = 0.03), and in the limitation of dermal-epidermal junction destructuring (p = 0.03) according to dermal-epidermal junction destructuring score at Reflectance Confocal Microscopy. Luminance (p = 0.04) and redness (p = 0.03) were improved at color analysis, and physician and patient evaluations favored the active in efficacy and patient satisfaction investigations. The dermocosmetic lightening product utilized in the current study proved to be more effective, according to clinical, digital and subjective analyses in reducing lesion hyperpigmentation, stabilizing the lesion skin architecture and increasing patient satisfaction compared to the control in a cohort of 36 subjects, over a 12-month period. Beside demonstrating the efficacy of this topical lightening product, we propose a "destructuring score", which improves the robustness of solar lentigo's evaluation, and can be used in future studies to standardize the quantitative comparisons of different treatment options.

Raman characterization of human skin aging.

BACKGROUND: Skin aging is a complex biological process mixing intrinsic and extrinsic factors, such as sun exposure. At the molecular level, skin aging affects in particular the extracellular matrix proteins. MATERIALS AND METHODS: Using Raman imaging, which is a nondestructive approach appropriate for studying biological samples, we analyzed how aging modifies the matrix proteins of the papillary and reticular dermis. Biopsies from the buttock and dorsal forearm of volunteers younger than 30 and older than 60 were analyzed in order to identify chronological and photoaging processes. Analyses were performed on skin section, and Raman spectra were acquired separately on the different dermal layers. RESULTS: We observed differences in dermal matrix structure and hydration state with skin aging. Chronological aging alters in particular the collagen of the papillary dermis, while photoaging causes a decrease in collagen stability by altering proline and hydroxyproline residues in the reticular dermis. Moreover, chronological aging alters glycosaminoglycan content in both dermal compartments. CONCLUSION: Alterations of the papillary and reticular dermal matrix structures during photo- and chronological aging were clearly depicted by Raman spectroscopy.

Sub-optimal Application of a High SPF Sunscreen Prevents Epidermal DNA Damage in Vivo.

The cyclobutane pyrimidine dimer (CPD) is a potentially mutagenic DNA photolesion that is the basis of most skin cancers. There are no data on DNA protection by sunscreens under typical conditions of use. The study aim was to determine such protection, in phototypes I/II, with representative sunscreen-user application. A very high SPF formulation was applied at 0.75, 1.3 and 2.0 mg/cm2. Unprotected control skin was exposed to 4 standard erythema doses (SED) of solar simulated UVR, and sunscreen-treated sites to 30 SED. Holiday behaviour was also simulated by UVR exposure for 5 consecutive days. Control skin received 1 SED daily, and sunscreen-treated sites received 15 (all 3 application thicknesses) or 30 (2.0 mg/cm2) SED daily. CPD were assessed by quantitative HPLC-tandem mass spectrometry (HPLC-MS/MS) and semi-quantitative immunostaining. In comparison with unprotected control sites, sunscreen significantly (p ≤ 0.001-0.05) reduced DNA damage at 1.3 and 2.0 mg/cm2 in all cases. However, reduction with typical sunscreen use (0.75 mg/cm2) was non-significant, with the exception of HPLC-MS/MS data for the 5-day study (p <0.001). Overall, these results support sunscreen use as a strategy to reduce skin cancer, and demonstrate that public health messages must stress better sunscreen application to get maximal benefit.

The use of suction blisters to measure sunscreen protection against UVR-induced DNA damage.

The formation of DNA photoproducts caused by solar UVR exposure needs to be investigated in-vivo and in particular in order to assess sunscreens' level of protection against solar genotoxicity. The study's purposes were: i) to evaluate if the roof of suction blisters is an appropriate sampling method for measuring photoproducts, and ii) to measure in-vivo sunscreen protection against cyclobutane pyrimidine dimers. Skin areas on the interior forearms of eight healthy volunteers were exposed in-vivo to 2 MED of simulated solar radiation (SSR) and to 15 MED on a sunscreen protected area. After irradiation, six suction blisters were induced and the blister roofs were collected. Analysis of SSR-induced CPDs was performed by two independent methods: a chromatography coupled to mass spectroscopy (HPLC-MS/MS) approach and a 3D-imaging of CPD immunostaining by multiphoton microscopy on floating epidermal sheets. HPLC-MS/MS analyses showed that SSR-unexposed skin presented no CPD dimers, whereas 2 MED SSR-exposed skin showed a significant number of TT-CPD. The sunscreen covered skin exposed to 15 MED appeared highly protected from DNA damage, as the amount of CPD-dimers remained below the detection limit. The multiphoton-immunostaining analysis consistently showed that no CPD staining was observed on the non-SSR-exposed skin. A significant increase of CPD staining intensity and number of CPD-positive cells were observed on the 2 MED SSR-exposed skin. Sunscreen protected skin presented a very low staining intensity and the number of CPD-positive cells remained very close to non-SSR-exposed skin. This study showed that suction blister samples are very appropriate for measuring CPD dimers in-vivo, and that sunscreens provide high protection against UVR-induced DNA damage.

Visualization of dendritic cells' responses in atopic dermatitis: Preventing effect of emollient.

Atopic dermatitis (AD) is a chronic and multifactorial inflammatory skin disease involving various dendritic cells such as epidermal Langerhans cells (LC) and inflammatory dendritic epidermal cells (IDECs). Most of the clinical studies was performed on isolated cells, and thus, it would be useful to characterize directly on the human epidermal tissue the first cellular events occurred during the AD. The suction blister method was used to obtain whole epidermis samples and interstitial cutaneous fluids. Employing multiphoton microscopy, we analyzed the early dynamic behavior of inflammatory cells using Dermatophagoides pteronyssinus atopy patch test (Derp-APT) and evaluated the effects of emollient pre-application. Derp-APT application provoked rapid and strong infiltration of IDECs, and proliferation and activation of LC in the AD subjects' epidermis. Moreover, emollient pre-application strengthened the defective skin barrier and had positive effects on inflammatory cells' behavior, characterized by the complete inhibition of IDEC influx and the presence of immature LC.

In vivo quantification of epidermis pigmentation and dermis papilla density with reflectance confocal microscopy: variations with age and skin phototype.

Reflectance confocal microscopy (RCM) may help to quantify variations of skin pigmentation induced by different stimuli such as UV radiation or therapeutic intervention. The objective of our work was to identify RCM parameters able to quantify in vivo dermis papilla density and epidermis pigmentation potentially applicable in clinical studies. The study included 111 healthy female volunteers with phototypes I-VI. Photo-exposed and photo-protected anatomical sites were imaged. The effect of age was also assessed. Four epidermis components were specifically investigated: stratum corneum, stratum spinosum, basal epidermal layer and dermo-epidermal junction. Laser power, diameter of corneocytes and upper spinous keratinocytes, brightness of upper spinous and interpapillary spinous keratinocytes, number of dermal papillae and papillary contrast were systematically assessed. Papillary contrast measured at the dermo-epidermal junction appeared to be a reliable marker of epidermis pigmentation and showed a strong correlation with skin pigmentation assessed clinically using the Fitzpatrick's classification. Brightness of upper spinous and interpapillary spinous keratinocytes was not influenced by the skin phototype. The number of dermal papillae was significantly lower in subjects with phototypes I-II as compared with darker skin subjects. A dramatic reduction in the number of dermal papillae was noticed with age, particularly in subjects with fair skin. The method presented here provides a new in vivo investigation tool for quantification of dermis papilla density and epidermal pigmentation. Papillary contrast measured at the dermo-epidermal junction may be selected as a marker of skin pigmentation for evaluation in clinical studies.

Effects of Hydroxydecine(®) (10-hydroxy-2-decenoic acid) on skin barrier structure and function in vitro and clinical efficacy in the treatment of UV-induced xerosis.

10-Hydroxy-2-decenoic acid, a natural fatty acid only found in royal jelly, may be of value in correcting skin barrier dysfunction. We evaluated the activity of Hydroxydecine(®), its synthetic counterpart, in vitro on the regulation of epidermal differentiation markers, ex vivo on the inflammatory response and restoration of skin barrier function, and in vivo on UV-induced xerosis in healthy human volunteers. In cultured normal human keratinocytes, Hydroxydecine(®) induced involucrin, transglutaminase-1 and filaggrin protein production. In topically Hydroxydecine(®)-treated skin equivalents, immunohistochemical analysis revealed an increase in involucrin, transglutaminase-1 and filaggrin staining. In a model of thymic stromal lymphopoietin (TSLP)-induced inflamed epidermis, a Hydroxydecine(®)-containing emulsion inhibited TSLP release. In a model of inflammation and barrier impairment involving human skin explants maintained alive, Hydroxydecine(®) balm restored stratum corneum cohesion and significantly increased filaggrin expression, as shown by immunohistochemistry. It also decreased pro-inflammatory cytokine secretion (IL-4, IL-5 and IL-13). In healthy volunteers with UV-induced xerosis, the hydration index increased by +28.8% (p<0.01) and +60.4% (p<0.001) after 7 and 21 days of treatment with Hydroxydecine(®) cream, respectively. Hydroxydecine(®) thus proved its efficacy in activating keratinocyte differentiation processes in vitro, restoring skin barrier function and reducing inflammation ex vivo, and hydrating dry skin in vivo.

Exploration of the global antioxidant capacity of the stratum corneum by cyclic voltammetry.

Cyclic voltammetry is proposed as a new method for evaluating the antioxidant capacity of skin based on the reducing properties of low molecular weight antioxidants (LMWA). Experiments were performed simply by recording the anodic current at 0.9 V/SCE of a platinum microelectrode placed directly on the epidermis surface without any gel or water. This method ensured a direct, rapid (less than 1 min), reliable (accuracy 12%) and non-invasive measurement of the global antioxidant capacity of the stratum corneum with a high spatiotemporal resolution. At the same time, the pH of the skin surface was determined by recording the cathodic current at 0 V/SCE. Based on an exploratory study involving nine volunteer subjects, the evolution of the amperometric response of the microelectrode with time revealed a periodic modification of the redox properties.