From bench to counter: Discovery and validation of a peony extract as tyrosinase inhibiting cosmeceutical.

The anti-melanogenic principle of peony (Paeonia officinalis subsp. officinalis) seeds was elucidated via activity-guided isolation. Resveratroloside (trans-resveratrol-4'-O-beta-d-glucopyranoside) was found to be the main metabolite of P. officinalis subsp. officinalis seeds and its tyrosinase inhibiting activity was confirmed via an enzymatic assay. Furthermore, the in vitro activity and the therapeutic window were studied employing the murine melanoma cell line B16F10. The results from the conducted stability assay and the high content of resveratroloside in the seeds (i.e. 10.4% dw) motivated us to push the extract forward to an in vivo tolerance assay. A clinical study with forty Caucasian participants proofed a good skin-tolerance with high moisture effect and reduction of pores.

HPTLC Autography Based Screening and Isolation of Mushroom Tyrosinase Inhibitors of European Plant Species.

In the course of this project, 133 plants were evaluated on their ability to inhibit tyrosinase, a key enzyme in melanogenesis. The screening was performed by means of a HPTLC autographic assay, resulting in the selection of three plants, Asplenium trichomanes, Pinus uncinata, and Scutellaria altissima, with promising tyrosinase inhibiting activities. With the aid of the HPTLC assay, it was not only possible to select the most interesting plant extracts, but also to monitor the activity-guided fractionation which, in a relatively short time period, led to the isolation of active principles. Benzoic acid, roseoside, and dihydrovomifoliol-O-ß-d-glucopyranoside could be identified as tyrosinase inhibitors present in P. uncinata. Globularin turned out to be the active principle of S. altissima, and 4-ethenylphenyl 6-O-(6-deoxy-α-l-mannopyranosyl)-ß-d-glucopyranoside was detected as tyrosinase inhibitor of A. trichomanes. The pure compounds were tested also in a 96 well-plate assay in order to determine their IC50 values. The lowest IC50 value (42 µm) could be obtained for globularin, whereas the other compounds, e. g., benzoic acid exhibited a rather high IC50 value (IC50 =552 µm). This stood in clear contrast to the autographic assay, but is has to be taken into account that the outcome of the autography assay is not only depending on the IC50 value of a compound, but also on the content of the respective constituent in the extract.

Tyrosinase Inhibitors from the Aerial Parts of Wulfenia carinthiaca Jacq.

Activity guided isolation of a MeOH extract of the aerial plant parts of Wulfenia carinthiaca Jacq. (Plantaginaceae), using a mushroom tyrosinase assay, resulted in the isolation of five phenylethanoid glucosides and four iridoid glycosides. Two of them, 2'-O-acetylisoplantamajoside and 2',6″-O-diacetylisoplantamajoside, represent new natural products. Evaluation of the inhibitory activity of all isolated compounds revealed that the observed activity is not related to the isolated phenylethanoid glycosides but mainly due to the presence of the iridoid glycoside globularin (IC50 41.94 µm; CI95% ± 16.61/11.89 µm). Interestingly, structurally close related compounds (globularicisin, baldaccioside, and isoscrophularioside) showed no or only a weak tyrosinase inhibitory activity.