Tactile friction of topical creams and emulsions: Friction measurements on excised skin and VitroSkin® using ForceBoard™.

Tactile perception can be investigated through ex vivo friction measurements using a so-called ForceBoard™, providing objective assessments and savings in time and money, compared to a subjective human panel. In this work we aim to compare excised skin versus VitroSkin® as model substrates for tactile friction measurements. A further aim is to detect possible differences between traditional surfactant-based creams, and a particle-stabilized (Pickering) cream and investigate how the different substrates affect the results obtained. It was found that the difference in tactile friction between excised skin and VitroSkin® was small on untreated substrates. When topical creams were applied, the same trends were observed for both substrates, although the frictional variation over time relates to the difference in surface structure between the two substrates. The results also confirmed that there is a difference between starch-based Pickering formulations and surfactant-based creams after application, indicating that the latter is greasier than Pickering cream. It was also shown that the tactile friction of Pickering emulsions was consistently high even with high amounts of oil, indicating a non-greasy, and non-sticky formulation. The characteristics of starch-stabilized Pickering formulations make them promising candidates in the development of surfactant-free topical formulations with unique tactile properties.

Relationship between sensorial and physical characteristics of topical creams: A comparative study on effects of excipients.

Rising consumer demands for safer, more natural, and sustainable topical products have led to increased interest in finding alternative excipients, while retaining functionality and cosmetic appeal. Particle-stabilized Pickering creams have emerged as possible alternatives to replace traditional surfactant-stabilized creams and are thus one of the focuses in this study. The aim of this paper was to study relationships between sensorial characteristics and physical properties to understand how different excipients affect these aspects, comparing one starch particle-stabilized and three surfactant-stabilized formulations. A human panel was used to evaluate sensorial perception, while physical properties were deduced by rheology and tactile friction, together with in vivo and ex vivo skin hydration measurements. The results show that sensorial attributes related to the application phase can be predicted with rheology, while afterfeel attributes can be predicted with tactile friction studies. Differences in rheological and sensory properties among surfactant-based creams could mainly be attributed to the type of emollients used, presence of thickeners and surfactant composition. Differences between surfactant-based creams and a Pickering cream were more evident in relation to the afterfeel perception. Presence of starch particles in the residual film on skin results in high tactile friction and low perception of residual coating, stickiness, greasiness, and slipperiness in sensorial afterfeel.

Tactile friction of topical formulations.

BACKGROUND: The tactile perception is essential for all types of topical formulations (cosmetic, pharmaceutical, medical device) and the possibility to predict the sensorial response by using instrumental methods instead of sensory testing would save time and cost at an early stage product development. Here, we report on an instrumental evaluation method using tactile friction measurements to estimate perceptual attributes of topical formulations. METHODS: Friction was measured between an index finger and an artificial skin substrate after application of formulations using a force sensor. Both model formulations of liquid crystalline phase structures with significantly different tactile properties, as well as commercial pharmaceutical moisturizing creams being more tactile-similar, were investigated. Friction coefficients were calculated as the ratio of the friction force to the applied load. The structures of the model formulations and phase transitions as a result of water evaporation were identified using optical microscopy. RESULTS: The friction device could distinguish friction coefficients between the phase structures, as well as the commercial creams after spreading and absorption into the substrate. In addition, phase transitions resulting in alterations in the feel of the formulations could be detected. A correlation was established between skin hydration and friction coefficient, where hydrated skin gave rise to higher friction. Also a link between skin smoothening and finger friction was established for the commercial moisturizing creams, although further investigations are needed to analyse this and correlations with other sensorial attributes in more detail. CONCLUSION: The present investigation shows that tactile friction measurements have potential as an alternative or complement in the evaluation of perception of topical formulations.

Nanotechnologic biosensor ellipsometry and biomarker pattern analysis in the evaluation of atherosclerotic risk profile.

A proteoheparan sulfate coated, hydrophobic silica surface serves as lipoprotein receptor at which the Ca(2+)-driven arteriosclerotic nanoplaque formation can be pursued by laser-based ellipsometry. Any lipoprotein from human blood can be very sensitively tested for its atherogenic properties. From the same blood sample, it is possible to determine the concentration and activity of a series of interacting biomarker molecules which, through a pattern analysis, allow to assess the state of health with respect to cardiovascular diseases. These two interlinked and complementary biosensors make a prospective cardio-cerebro-vascular risk stratification feasible, especially the sequelae of an underlying arteriosclerotic disease. Based on these diagnostic tools, an optimized therapy decision for the patient can be taken and the necessary preventive measures for the still healthy person.

Reduction of atherosclerotic nanoplaque formation and size by Ginkgo biloba (EGb 761) in cardiovascular high-risk patients.

Coating a silica surface with the isolated lipoprotein receptor proteoheparan sulfate (HS-PG) from arterial endothelium and vascular matrices and adding both the atherogenic VLDL/IDL/LDL lipid fraction in its native composition and Ca(2+) ions, we could observe in vitro the earliest stages of atherosclerotic plaque development by ellipsometric techniques (patent EP 0 946 876). This so-called nanoplaque formation is represented by the ternary aggregational complex of the HS-PG receptor, lipoprotein particles and calcium ions. The model was validated in several clinical studies on statins in cardiovascular high-risk patients. In eight patients who had undergone an aortocoronary bypass operation, the reduction of atherosclerotic nanoplaque formation amounted to 11.9+/-2.5% (p<0.0078) and of nanoplaque size to 24.4+/-8.1% (p<0.0234), respectively, after a 2-month therapy with Ginkgo biloba extract (2x 120 mg daily, EGb 761). Additionally, superoxide dismutase (SOD) activity was upregulated by 15.7+/-7.0% (p<0.0391), the quotient oxLDL/LDL lowered by 17.0+/-5.5% (p<0.0234) and lipoprotein(a) concentration decreased by 23.4+/-7.9% (p<0.0234) in the patients' blood. The concentration of the vasodilating substances cAMP and cGMP was augmented by 37.5+/-9.1% (p<0.0078) and 27.7+/-8.3% (p<0.0156), respectively. A multiple regression analysis between the patients' VLDL/IDL/LDL lipoprotein fraction applied in the ellipsometry measurements as well as the further risk factors oxLDL/LDL and Lp(a) on the one hand and changes in nanoplaque formation on the other hand reveals a basis for a mechanistic explanation of nanoplaque reduction under ginkgo treatment. The atherosclerosis inhibiting effect is possibly due to an upregulation in the body's own radical scavenging enzymes and an attenuation of the risk factors oxLDL/LDL and Lp(a).