Dietary Supplements and the Skin: Focus on Photoprotection and Antioxidant Activity-A Review.

Skin health is not only significantly affected by ageing, but also by other lifestyle-related factors, such as sun exposure, exercise and eating habits, smoking or alcohol intake. It is known that the cutaneous tissue can exhibit visible signs of senescence, in the form of, for example, dull complexion, loss of firmness, or changes in pigmentation. Consumers attempt to improve skin health and appearance not only by cosmetic products, but also with the consumption of food supplements. Recently, there has been an increase in the amount of food supplements with claims that are related to skin and hair health. Nevertheless, the literature is still scarce in evidence of the efficacy of this type of products. Considering this scenario, we aim in this review to assemble studies and methodologies that are directed at the substantiation of the cutaneous health claims of food supplements. For example, we reviewed those that were indicative of antioxidant properties, improvement in pigmentation disorders, increased hydration or protection against the damages caused by ultraviolet radiation.

Assessment of the Potential Skin Application of Plectranthus ecklonii Benth.

Plectranthus ecklonii Benth. has widespread ethnobotanical use in African folk medicine for its medicinal properties in skin conditions. In this study, two different basic formulations containing P. ecklonii extracts were prepared, one in an organic solvent and the other using water. The aqueous extract only contained rosmarinic acid (RA) at 2.02 mM, and the organic extract contained RA and parvifloron D at 0.29 and 3.13 mM, respectively. RA in aqueous solution permeated skin; however, in P. ecklonii organic extract, this was not detected. Thus, P. ecklonii aqueous extract was further studied and combined with benzophenone-4, which elevated the sun protection factor (SPF) by 19.49%. No significant cytotoxic effects were observed from the aqueous extract. The Staphylococcus epidermidis strain was used to determine a minimum inhibitory concentration (MIC) value of 10 µg.mL-1. The aqueous extract inhibited the activity of acetylcholinesterase by 59.14 ± 4.97%, and the IC50 value was 12.9 µg.mL-1. The association of the P. ecklonii extract with a UV filter substantially elevated its SPF efficacy. Following the multiple bioactivities of the extract and its active substances, a finished product could be claimed as a multifunctional cosmeceutical with broad skin valuable effects, from UV protection to antiaging action.

Using ordered mesoporous silica SBA-15 to limit cutaneous penetration and transdermal permeation of organic UV filters.

Avobenzone (AVO), oxybenzone (OXY), and octyl methoxycinnamate (OMC), are widely used UV filters. The aim of this study was to investigate the effect of incorporation in mesoporous silica (SBA-15) on their cutaneous deposition and permeation. Stick formulations containing "free" and "incorporated" UV filters (SF1 and SF2, respectively) were prepared and characterized with respect to their physicochemical, thermal, and functional properties. Cutaneous delivery experiments using porcine skin with quantification by UHPLC-MS/MS, demonstrated that skin deposition of AVO and OXY after application of SF2 for 6 and 12 h was significantly lower than that from SF1 at each time-point (Student t-test, p < 0.05): e.g. OXY permeation across the skin was 30-, 12- and 1.5-fold lower after 6, 12 and 24 h, respectively, following application of SF2. Cutaneous biodistribution profiles of AVO and OXY to 800 µm evidenced a significant decrease in the amounts in the viable epidermis and dermis. In contrast, deposition of the more lipophilic OMC was not significantly different (p ˃ 0.05). In vitro photoprotective efficacy results demonstrated that adsorption/entrapment of UV filters enhanced the sun protection factor by 94%. In conclusion, SBA-15, an innovative mesoporous material, increased photoprotection by UV filters while reducing their cutaneous penetration and transdermal permeation.

Is Vitamin D3 Transdermal Formulation Feasible? An Ex Vivo Skin Retention and Permeation.

Vitamin D3 supplementation is important to prevent and treat hypovitaminosis that is a worldwide public health issue. Most types of supplementation are by oral route or fortification foods. The alternative route must be investigated, as transdermal route, for people with fat malabsorption or other diseases that impair the absorption of vitamin D3. This study focused on verifying the feasibleness of vitamin D3 skin retention and permeation with the presence of chemical penetration enhancers (soybean lecithin, isopropyl palmitate, propylene glycol, ethoxydiglycol, and cereal alcohol) at different pharmaceutical forms (gel and cream) through a human skin. The integrity of skin was evaluated by transepidermal water loss (TEWL) during the skin retention and permeation test. The combination of chemical penetration enhancers presented in cream did not compromise the skin, different from the gel that association of cereal alcohol and propylene glycol compromised the skin in 24 h. Gel formulation showed vitamin D3 detection at stratum corneum in 4 h and at epidermis and dermis in 24 h. Vitamin D3 demonstrated an affinity with the vehicle in the cream formulation and was detected at the skin surface. No active was found at receptor fluid for both formulations. In conclusion, the vitamin D3 did not indicate feasibleness for transdermal use probably due to its physical-chemical characteristics such as high lipophilicity since it was not permeated through a human skin. Nevertheless, the transdermal route should be continuously investigated with less lipophilic derivates of vitamin D3 and with different combination of penetration enhancers.

Relaxing/straightening of Afro-ethnic hair: historical overview.

Afro-ethnic hair, when compared with naturally straight hair, presents some important variations such as differences in diameter in many points of the thread, ellipsoidal threads, and low trend of hydrating the scalp thus turning the hair drier, because the natural sebum distribution is irregular along the thread. This kind of hair may be straightened through both chemical and thermal methods. Straightening is a chemical process by which excessively curly hair is straightened in an irreversible way. Generally, the products used are formulated in a cosmetic emulsion with high pH. In this review, we present the historical development of hair straightening or relaxing through the evolution of the product categories.