Challenging the safety and efficacy of topically applied chlorogenic acid, apigenin, kaempferol, and naringenin by HET-CAM, HPLC-TBARS-EVSC, and laser Doppler flowmetry.

The integumentary system, a vital organ, constitutes a multifaceted barrier against pathogens and environmental factors, crucial for maintaining homeostasis. Intrinsic and extrinsic factors can accelerate skin aging and compromise its homeostatic functions and solar rays, particularly ultraviolet (UV) radiation, pose a significant risk for skin cancer. Polyphenols are molecules that donate hydrogen or electrons, preventing the oxidation of substances, such as lipids, or the formation of inflammatory mediators by cyclooxygenase enzymes. This study explored the in vitro safety, by HET-CAM (hen's egg test on chorioallantoic membrane), and protective effects of polyphenols (chlorogenic acid, apigenin, kaempferol, and naringenin) against stratum corneum UV-induced lipid peroxidation using an innovative method, the HPLC-TBARS-EVSC (high-performance liquid chromatography-thiobarbituric acid reactive substances-ex vivo stratum corneum), and a stress test using methyl nicotinate and laser Doppler flowmetry to establish in vivo the samples' topical anti-inflammatory ability. An aqueous gel containing 0.1% w/w of each polyphenol was formulated using ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP copolymer. Through the utilization of the HET-CAM assay for in vitro safety assessment, chlorogenic acid, apigenin, kaempferol, and naringenin were classified as non-irritating active ingredients. This classification was based on their lack of adverse reactions within the vascularization of the chorioallantoic membrane. To assess the protective capabilities of four polyphenols against lipid peroxidation in the stratum corneum, the HPLC-TBARS-EVSC protocol was conducted. It was observed that only naringenin exhibited a significant reduction in epidermal lipoperoxidation, indicating superior anti-radical potential. Conversely, chlorogenic acid, apigenin, and kaempferol displayed a pro-oxidant profile under the specified test conditions. The laser Doppler flowmetry suggested the anti-inflammatory potential of naringenin, kaempferol, and chlorogenic acid, with naringenin showing superior efficacy involving all parameters quantified. Naringenin emerged as the only polyphenol capable of reducing the intensity of the inflammatory response induced by methyl nicotinate solution in the participants, compared to the blank gel and the untreated area. This comprehensive investigation underscores the diverse protective roles of polyphenols in skin health, emphasizing naringenin's notable anti-radical and anti-inflammatory properties.

HPLC-TBARS-EVSC (high-performance liquid chromatography-thiobarbituric acid reactive substances-ex vivo stratum corneum) protocol: Selection of the subjects and approach to present the results.

OBJECTIVE: Nowadays, it is recognized the need for improved safety and efficacy protocols to evaluate the human stratum corneum (SC) and its interaction with topical and cosmetic formulations by minimally or non-invasive methodologies. The aim of our research work was to streamline the HPLC-TBARS-EVSC (high-performance liquid chromatography-thiobarbituric acid reactive substances-ex vivo stratum corneum) methodology, by exploring the results of a group of 18 subjects. METHODS: The study included nine women and nine men aged between 19 and 57 years old with phototypes from II to V. Sites in the forearm of each volunteer were randomly delimited, and the SC was collected by tape stripping. HPLC was used to quantify the MDA-TBA2 (malondialdehyde-thiobarbituric acid) adduct from the tape-stripped SC, irradiated and not by an ultraviolet (UV) simulator chamber. RESULTS: Observing the findings of our present investigation, and the statistical approach applied, the use of the ratio between the treatment site and control would be an adequate strategy to better discriminate and evaluate the results. Additionally, an optimal selection of the volunteers to respond specifically to the purpose of the ex vivo assay also can be considered advantageous. CONCLUSIONS: It seemed that in future studies focusing on the impact of SC UV-induced lipid peroxidation, determined by the HPLC-TBARS-EVSC, the most suitable subjects are females aged less than 35 years old, with phototype II.

OBJECTIF: Aujourd'hui, il est nécessaire d'améliorer les protocoles de sécurité d'emploi et d'efficacité pour évaluer le stratum corneum (SC) humain et son interaction avec les formulations topiques et cosmétiques par des méthodologies peu ou pas invasives. L'objectif de notre travail de recherche était de rationaliser la méthodologie HPLC-TBARS-SCEV, à savoir chromatographie en phase liquide à haute performance (High Performance Liquid Chromatography), substances réactives à l'acide thiobarbiturique (Thiobarbituric Acid Reactive Substances), stratum corneum ex vivo (SCEV), en explorant les résultats d'un groupe de 18 sujets. MÉTHODES: L'étude incluait 9 femmes et 9 hommes âgés de 19 à 57 ans présentant des phototypes II à V. Des sites de l'avant-bras de chaque volontaire ont été délimités de manière aléatoire, et le SC a été recueilli par « tape stripping ¼. La chromatographie en phase liquide à haute performance a été utilisée pour quantifier l'adduit MDA-TBA2 (malondialdéhyde - acide thiobarbiturique) à partir du SC recueilli par « tape stripping ¼, irradié et non irradié par une chambre de simulation à ultraviolets (UV). RÉSULTATS: En observant les résultats de notre recherche actuelle et l'approche statistique appliquée, l'utilisation du rapport entre le site traité et le site contrôle serait une stratégie adéquate pour mieux discriminer et évaluer les résultats. En outre, une sélection optimale des volontaires pour répondre spécifiquement à l'objectif du test ex vivo peut également être considérée comme bénéfique. CONCLUSIONS: Il semble que dans les études futures axées sur l'impact de la peroxydation lipidique induite par UV du SC, déterminé par la méthodologie HPLC-TBARS-SCEV, les sujets les plus appropriés sont les femmes âgées de moins de 35 ans présentant un phototype II.

Impact of Human Papillomavirus Vaccination on Male Disease: A Systematic Review.

Human papillomavirus (HPV)-related diseases are highly prevalent in men worldwide, comprising external anogenital condyloma, anal intraepithelial neoplasia (AIN), penile intraepithelial neoplasia (PIN), and anogenital and oropharyngeal cancers. There is exceptionally low vaccine coverage in the male population. Only 4% of men were fully vaccinated, worldwide, as of 2019. The aim of this review is to assess the impact of HPV vaccination on male disease. Three databases (MEDLINE, Web of Science, Scopus) and Clinical Trials.gov were searched. We included thirteen studies, eight randomized controlled trials (RCTs), and five cohorts, comprising a total of 14,239 participants. Regarding anal disease, seven studies reported HPV vaccine efficacy ranging from 91.1% to 93.1% against AIN1, and ranging from 89.6% to 91.7% against AIN2|3 and anal cancer. Five studies showed an efficacy against genital condyloma of 89.9% in HPV-naïve males, varying between 66.7% and 67.2% in intention-to-treat populations. Studies reporting no efficacy have included older participants. These results support vaccination of young men previously infected, beyond HPV-naïve males. The evidence quality was moderate to low for most outcomes, namely genital diseases. RCTs are needed to assess the efficacy of HPV vaccination on male oropharyngeal cancer.

Effect of an Emollient Emulsion Containing 15.0% of Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride on the Urocanic Acid of the Stratum Corneum.

Natural moisturizing factor (NMF) includes several compounds in the stratum corneum (SC), among them, urocanic acid (UCA). Ultraviolet (UV) exposure turns the trans-UCA of the SC into its cis isomer. We investigated the impact of a topical emollient emulsion treatment on the UCA isomers of the SC exposed to artificial UV stress. Aliquots of emollient emulsion were applied in healthy subjects for 2 h on delimited areas of the volar forearm, then, the SC was removed by tape stripping. Tapes were irradiated in a solar simulator chamber and a high performance liquid chromatograph was used to quantify UCA isomers from stripped SC extract. The amount of both UCA isomers were almost twice higher in the SC treated with the emollient emulsion. We also observed that the UV irradiation elevated the amount of the cis/trans UCA ratio on the SC (non-treated and treated), suggesting that the emollient sample was not able to avoid the UCA isomerization. The in vivo tests corroborated with the UCA data obtained ex vivo, since we found an increase in the superficial skin hydration with respective reduction of the TEWL, probably occurring by the occlusion performed by the emollient emulsion containing 15.0% w/w of caprylic/capric triglyceride.

Mixed Edge Activators in Ibuprofen-Loaded Transfersomes: An Innovative Optimization Strategy Using Box-Behnken Factorial Design.

Transfersomes have been highlighted as an interesting nanotechnology-based approach to facilitate the skin delivery of bioactive compounds. Nevertheless, the properties of these nanosystems still need to be improved to enable knowledge transfer to the pharmaceutical industry and the development of more efficacious topical medicines. Quality-by-design strategies, such as Box-Behnken factorial design (BBD), are in line with the current need to use sustainable processes to develop new formulations. Thus, this work aimed at optimizing the physicochemical properties of transfersomes for cutaneous applications, by applying a BBD strategy to incorporate mixed edge activators with opposing hydrophilic-lipophilic balance (HLB). Tween® 80 and Span® 80 were used as edge activators and ibuprofen sodium salt (IBU) was selected as the model drug. After the initial screening of the IBU solubility in aqueous media, a BBD protocol was implemented, and the optimized formulation displayed appropriate physicochemical properties for skin delivery. By comparing the optimized transfersomes to equivalent liposomes, the incorporation of mixed edge activators was found to be beneficial to upgrade the storage stability of the nanosystems. Furthermore, their cytocompatibility was shown by cell viability studies using 3D HaCaT cultures. Altogether, the data herein bode well for future advances in the use of mixed edge activators in transfersomes for the management of skin conditions.

Kefir and the Gut-Skin Axis.

The human gastrointestinal (GI) tract is a dynamic system influenced by various environmental factors, including diet and exposure to ingested probiotics, and prone to various functional impairments. These impairments are mostly related to any combination of motility alterations, visceral hypersensitivity, and changes in the mucosa, immune function, and intestinal microbiota. Intestinal microbial imbalance and immunological dysfunction have been linked to several chronic inflammatory disease states, including atopic dermatitis (AD). Disruption of the intestinal microbial balance, known as gut dysbiosis, has been demonstrated to negatively impact skin function by increasing the intestinal permeability. Consequently, the gut-skin axis may be receptive to modulation via dietary modification, namely, via ingestion of probiotics, thus representing interesting potential as an AD therapy. Kefir is an ancient probiotic food that has been demonstrated to positively impact the general condition of the digestive system, including the intestinal microbiota. However, the literature is still scarce on the impact on the gut-skin relationship of a diet containing kefir. This study, continuing research in our group, aimed to evaluate the impact of kefir intake on GI symptoms in healthy and AD skin subjects. Results showed a significant improvement in GI status, namely, in functional constipation, abdominal pain intensity, and abdominal distension, thus supporting the hypothesis that kefir intake is positively associated with improvement in GI status. The existence of a relationship between the improvement in skin parameters and the improvement in GI status after kefir consumption was established, thus reinforcing the role of homemade kefir as a potential modulator of the gut-skin axis in both healthy and atopic individuals.

The Impact of Kefir on Epidermal Water Homeostasis in Healthy Human Skin.

Kefir, a symbiotic consortium of diverse bacteria and yeasts, is one of the most popular probiotic foods on the market. Its consumption has been referred to as beneficial in human skin health, namely in the reinforcement of skin's barrier function. This benefit likely results from the productive activity of lactic acid bacteria during kefir fermentation. Lactic acid is naturally present in the skin, and actively contributes to epidermal water dynamics and "barrier." Few studies have been conducted regarding the impact of probiotic consumption in human epidermal water homeostasis. Therefore, this study was designed to explore the impact of the regular consumption of kefir on the skin water dynamics in a group of participants with healthy skin. Participants (n = 27) were healthy female volunteers from whom twelve consumed 100 mL of kefir every day for eight weeks as part of their diet. The remaining (untreated) participants served as the control group. Epidermal water balance was assessed by measuring transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and stratum corneum (SC) hydration on three different occasions-at baseline (T0), after four weeks (T4) and after eight weeks (T8) of interventive kefir consumption. Our study revealed a significant reduction in TEWL (p = 0.043) in the kefir group after eight weeks of regular consumption. In the same period, no differences were found for TEWL in the control group (p = 0.997). Regarding hydration, skin dryness was progressive in the control group, with a significant reduction in SC hydration (p = 0.002) at T8 in comparison to T0. In the kefir group, SC hydration was preserved between T0 and T8 (p = 0.997), which we believe to be related to epidermal "barrier" reinforcement. Our study seems to confirm that the regular consumption of kefir does improve cutaneous water balance even in healthy skin.

Characterization of lipid extracts from the Hermetia illucens larvae and their bioactivities for potential use as pharmaceutical and cosmetic ingredients.

There is an increasingly growing demand for the use of natural and sustainable bioactives in the field of the pharmaceutical and cosmetic industries. The biomass from black soldier fly larvae (Hermetia illucens) can be viewed as an innovative source of compounds with high aggregate value and marketing potential due to the sustainable organic matter bioconversion process used as substrate for its development. This insect can be a source of lipid compounds with high added value, mainly due to its high content in fatty acids (FA) with potential applicability in the pharmaceutical and cosmetic industry. In this context, in this work different extraction methods were tested (decoction, microwaves, maceration and ultrasound), using water, acetone, n-hexane as extraction solvents, to evaluate yields of the BSF larvae lipid extracts, as well as their lipid profile, and a preliminary safety screening was conducted. Results show that despite using different extraction techniques and solvents, similar FA composition profiles were obtained. The lauric acid content (C12: 0) is elevated in all the extracts in relation to the other FA, ranging 37%-62%. The contents in palmitic (C16: 0) and oleic (C18: 1n-9) acids, were also high in all applied extraction methods. The omega-6 FA (ω-6 PUFAs), mainly linoleic acid (C18: 2n6c), were also identified in the lipid fraction of BSF larvae biomass, with a content variation between 4.5% and 17.7%, while the omega-3 group, namely α-Linolenic acid (C18: 3n3), presented values between 0.66% and 1.95%. None of the extracts presented toxicity in preliminary tests with the Artemia salina model. Through this study, it was possible to confirm that BSF larvae oil can be obtained by sustainable methods, containing a broad mixture of FA and being highly rich in lauric acid, with a promising skin care applicability.

Impact of Portuguese propolis on keratinocyte proliferation, migration and ROS protection: Significance for applications in skin products.

OBJECTIVE: Propolis has been used since antiquity, but recent reports of its biological properties hint that it could be employed as a topical pharmaceutical and cosmetic ingredient. This work aims to probe the action of Portuguese propolis extracts on skin cells, providing mechanistic insights into its mode of action and preliminarily assessing its applicability as a skin repair ingredient. METHODS: The total phenolic content of propolis extracts was measured by the Folin Ciocalteu method. The cytotoxic effect of propolis extracts in human keratinocytes was determined and non-cytotoxic concentrations of the extracts were used to study the impact on collective cell migration, cell cycle and intracellular ROS levels. RESULTS: o significant impact was observed in collective cell migration, but one of the extracts mildly increased G2 phase while reducing the % of sub-G1 at a non-cytotoxic concentration. The two extracts with higher phenolic content strongly prevented intracellular cellular ROS accumulation upon exposure to TBHP. Collectively, these results indicate that the putative beneficial effects of propolis extracts in skin repair may not be attributable to induction of collective cell migration but could be partially ascribed to the protection from oxidative stress, which could act in synergy with its well-known antimicrobial activity. CONCLUSION: These data support the applicability of this material in topical and cosmetic formulations and further in vivo assays should be conducted to fully characterize its efficacy and safety.

OBJECTIF: la propolis est utilisée depuis l'Antiquité, mais des rapports récents sur ses propriétés biologiques suggèrent qu'elle pourrait être utilisée comme ingrédient pharmaceutique et cosmétique topique. Ce travail de recherche vise à explorer l'effet d'extraits de propolis portugaise sur les cellules cutanées, en fournissant des informations sur le plan mécanique relatives à son mode d'action et en évaluant de manière préliminaire son applicabilité en tant qu'ingrédient de réparation cutanée. MÉTHODES: la teneur en substance phénolique totale d'extraits de propolis a été mesurée par la méthode de Folin-Ciocalteu. L'effet cytotoxique d'extraits de propolis dans les kératinocytes humains a été déterminé, et des concentrations non cytotoxiques de ces extraits ont été utilisées pour étudier l'impact sur la migration cellulaire collective, le cycle cellulaire et les taux de ROS intracellulaires. RÉSULTATS: un impact significatif a été observé sur la migration cellulaire collective, mais l'un des extraits a légèrement augmenté la phase G2 tout en réduisant le % de sub-G1 à une concentration non cytotoxique. Les deux extraits présentant une teneur phénolique plus élevée ont fortement prévenu l'accumulation de ROS intracellulaires lors de l'exposition à l'hydroperoxyde de tert-butyle (TBHP). Collectivement, ces résultats indiquent que les effets bénéfiques présumés des extraits de propolis dans la réparation cutanée pourraient ne pas être attribuables à l'induction de la migration cellulaire collective, mais partiellement à la protection contre le stress oxydatif, qui pourrait agir en synergie avec son activité antimicrobienne bien connue. CONCLUSION: ces données étayent l'applicabilité de cette substance dans les formulations topiques et cosmétiques, et des tests in vivo supplémentaires doivent être réalisés afin de caractériser plus précisément son efficacité et sa sécurité d'emploi.

Dietary Supplements and the Skin: Focus on Photoprotection and Antioxidant Activity-A Review.

Skin health is not only significantly affected by ageing, but also by other lifestyle-related factors, such as sun exposure, exercise and eating habits, smoking or alcohol intake. It is known that the cutaneous tissue can exhibit visible signs of senescence, in the form of, for example, dull complexion, loss of firmness, or changes in pigmentation. Consumers attempt to improve skin health and appearance not only by cosmetic products, but also with the consumption of food supplements. Recently, there has been an increase in the amount of food supplements with claims that are related to skin and hair health. Nevertheless, the literature is still scarce in evidence of the efficacy of this type of products. Considering this scenario, we aim in this review to assemble studies and methodologies that are directed at the substantiation of the cutaneous health claims of food supplements. For example, we reviewed those that were indicative of antioxidant properties, improvement in pigmentation disorders, increased hydration or protection against the damages caused by ultraviolet radiation.

Nanodelivery Strategies for Skin Diseases with Barrier Impairment: Focusing on Ceramides and Glucocorticoids.

The human epidermis has a characteristic lipidic composition in the stratum corneum, where ceramides play a crucial role in the skin barrier homeostasis and in water-holding capacity. Several skin diseases, such as atopic dermatitis and psoriasis, exhibit a dysfunction in the lipid barrier with altered ceramide levels and increased loss of transepidermal water. Glucocorticoids are normally employed in the therapeutical management of these pathologies. However, they have shown a poor safety profile and reduced treatment efficiency. The main objective of this review is to, within the framework of the limitations of the currently available therapeutical approaches, establish the relevance of nanocarriers as a safe and efficient delivery strategy for glucocorticoids and ceramides in the topical treatment of skin disorders with barrier impairment.

Influence of the Mixtures of Vegetable Oil and Vitamin E over the Microstructure and Rheology of Organogels.

Candelilla wax (CW) and 12-hydroxystearic acid (12HSA) are classic solid-fiber-matrix organogelators. Despite the high number of studies using those ingredients in oily systems, there is scarce literature using a mixture of oil and antioxidants. Vitamin E (VE) is an important candidate for its lipophilicity and several applications on pharmaceutical, cosmetics, and food industries. In this work, we investigated the influences of mixtures between vegetable oil (VO) and VE on the microstructures and rheological properties of CW and 12HSA organogels. A weak gel (G''/G' > 0.1) with a shear-thinning behavior was observed for all samples. The presence of VE impacted the gel strength and the phase transition temperatures in a dose-dependent pattern. Larger and denser packed crystals were seen for 12HSA samples, while smaller and more dispersed structures were obtained for CW organogels. The results obtained in this work allowed the correlation of the structural and mechanical properties of the organogels, which plays an important role in the physical-chemical characteristics of these materials.

Vaccinium myrtillus L. extract associated with octocrylene, bisoctrizole, and titanium dioxide: in vitro and in vivo tests to evaluate safety and efficacy.

OBJECTIVE: The harmful effects induced by ultraviolet exposition and the significant increment in skin cancer diagnosis confirm the necessity to develop effective and safe sunscreens. Limited efficacy and cutaneous adverse reactions of traditional formulations drove the incorporation of natural extracts into multifunctional sunscreens. Vaccinium myrtillus L. extract (VME), that contains anthocyanins and flavonoids, is a potential candidate for such systems. METHODS: Considering that, we performed in vitro and in vivo tests to evaluate the sun protection factor (SPF), photostability, and safety of sunscreen samples containing VME. RESULTS: As main results, the SPF was reduced in both in vitro and in vivo evaluation in the presence of VME; nonetheless, the samples were photostable and safe. CONCLUSION: Further investigation is required to better understand the unexpected effects of VME over photoprotection, decreasing the SPF value. As a conclusion, even with interesting findings, we highlight the importance of case-by-case investigations to develop multifunctional bioactive sunscreens.

Homemade Kefir Consumption Improves Skin Condition-A Study Conducted in Healthy and Atopic Volunteers.

Diet has a fundamental role in the homeostasis of bodily functions, including the skin, which, as an essential protective barrier, plays a crucial role in this balance. The skin and intestine appear to share a series of indirect metabolic pathways, in a dual relationship known as the "gut-skin axis". Hence, the gut-skin axis might be receptive to modulation via dietary modification, where probiotics can be included, thus representing a potential therapeutic target in inflammatory skin diseases, such as atopic dermatitis (AD), in order to control and/or ameliorate symptoms. Kefir is one of the most ancient fermented foods, with probiotic characteristics that have been associated with a wide variety of health-promoting benefits, and it presents a microbiological diversity that makes its application as a probiotic in the gut-skin relationship of the utmost interest. However, the impact of a diet containing kefir on skin health has yet to be reported in scientific literature. This study aimed to assess the impact of the intake of homemade kefir in the skin of healthy and atopic volunteers. The intervention resulted in a boost on barrier function in both skin types verified only in the respective kefir intake groups. An improvement in the degree of severity of AD was also confirmed for the kefir intake group. Atopic individuals may benefit from kefir intake, especially in regard to their skin hydration. Finally, the effects observed on skin barrier function in this study probably culminate from the effects of all the ingredients in kefir, including the complex microbiota, its metabolites and macro- and micronutrients resulting from the fermentation. This work opens the way for more advanced research on the impact of the probiotic kefir on cutaneous health, further clarifying its mechanism of action namely via gut-skin axis.

Skin impacts from exposure to ultraviolet, visible, infrared, and artificial lights - a review.

Social distancing is conducive to grow the impact of artificial light in the daily life of the worldwide population with reported consequences to the skin. Sunlight is also essential for human development, indeed, solar radiation is composed of different types of wavelengths, which generate different skin effects. It can be divided into ultraviolet (UV), infrared (IR), and visible. UV radiation (UVA and UVB) has cutaneous biological effects ranging from photoaging, immunosuppression to melanoma formation, through the production of reactive oxygen species (ROS), inflammation and elevation of the energy state of organic molecules, changing the DNA structure. IR radiation reaches deeper layers of the skin and is also related to the generation of ROS, photoaging and erythema while visible light is responsible for generating ROS, pigmentation, cytokine formation, and matrix metallopeptidases (MMPs). Furthermore, artificial light could be harmful to the skin, as it can generate ROS, hyperpigmentation, and stimulate photoaging. Currently, we briefly summarized the cutaneous biological effects of sunlight, as well as artificial light on skin and remarked the opportunity of the evolution of current photoprotective formulas through new strategies with broad spectrum protection.

An Overview on Topical Administration of Carotenoids and Coenzyme Q10 Loaded in Lipid Nanoparticles.

Carotenoids and coenzyme Q10 are naturally occurring antioxidant compounds that are also found in human skin. These bioactive compounds have been the focus of considerable research due to their antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and photoprotective properties. In this review, the current state of the art in the encapsulation of carotenoids and coenzyme Q10 in lipid nanoparticles to improve their bioavailability, chemical stability, and skin absorption is discussed. Additionally, the main findings are highlighted on the cytotoxic and photoprotective effects of these systems in the skin.

Characterization of Kefir Produced in Household Conditions: Physicochemical and Nutritional Profile, and Storage Stability.

Kefir, a traditional fermented food, has numerous health benefits due to its unique chemical composition, which is reflected in its excellent nutritional value. Physicochemical and microbial composition of kefir obtained from fermented milk are influenced by the type of the milk, grain to milk ratio, time and temperature of fermentation, and storage conditions. It is crucial that kefir characteristics are maintained during storage since continuous metabolic activities of residual kefir microbiota may occur. This study aimed to examine the nutritional profile of kefir produced in traditional in use conditions by fermentation of ultra-high temperature pasteurized (UHT) semi-skimmed cow milk using argentinean kefir grains and compare the stability and nutritional compliance of freshly made and refrigerated kefir. Results indicate that kefir produced under home use conditions maintains the expected characteristics with respect to the physicochemical parameters and composition, both after fermentation and after refrigerated storage. This work further contributes to the characterization of this food product that is so widely consumed around the world by focusing on kefir that was produced in a typical household setting.

Ex vivo penetration analysis and anti-inflammatory efficacy of the association of ferulic acid and UV filters.

BACKGROUND: Unprotected chronic exposure to ultraviolet (UV) radiation generates many harmful effects to human skin and sunscreens are essential to health, however, traditional products do not provide enough protection against cutaneous oxidative stress, a process amplified by UV radiation. Therefore, the development of multifunctional photoprotective formulations seems to be a more efficacious approach, since these enable the absorption/reflection of UV radiation and maintain the cutaneous homeostasis. OBJECTIVES: In the present study, ferulic acid (FA), a well-known antioxidant, has been combined with two UV filters, bemotrizinol and ethylhexyl triazone, and the safety and efficacy of this formulation has been assessed combining ex vivo and in vivo methods. METHODS: Skin permeation assays were performed by applying the formulation in the volar forearm of participants, after which consecutive samples of the stratum corneum were collected by tape stripping, and the quantification of FA, bemotrizinol and ethylhexyl triazone was performed by high-performance liquid chromatography (HPLC). Also, the FA anti-inflammatory action in combination with the UV filters was probed through a method employing Laser Doppler flowmetry to measure the vasodilatory response to methyl nicotinate topical application. RESULTS: Skin permeation assay was able to characterize the penetration depth of each substance. It should also be noted that a specific HPLC analytical method was developed in this study to enable the rapid simultaneous quantification of the three substances. Results from Laser Doppler flowmetry showed that the FA was able to mitigate the vasodilatory response. CONCLUSIONS: FA proved to be a valuable resource in a multifunction sunscreen, not only providing an increase in the SPF of sunscreens, previously published, but also decreasing the extent of inflammation.

Bacterial nanocellulose-hyaluronic acid microneedle patches for skin applications: In vitro and in vivo evaluation.

The aim of the present study was to develop innovative patches for dermo-cosmetic applications based on dissolvable hyaluronic acid (HA) microneedles (MNs) combined with bacterial nanocellulose (BC) as the back layer. HA was employed as an active biomacromolecule, with hydrating and regenerative properties and volumizing effect, whereas BC was used as support for the incorporation of an additional bioactive molecule. Rutin, a natural antioxidant, was selected as the model bioactive compound to demonstrate the effectiveness of the system. The obtained HA-MNs arrays present homogenous and regular needles, with 200 µm in base width, 450 µm in height and 500 µm tip-to-tip distance, and with sufficient mechanical force to withstand skin insertion with a failure force higher than 0.15 N per needle. The antioxidant activity of rutin was neither affected by its incorporation in the MNs system nor by their storage at room temperature for 6 months. Preliminary in vivo studies in human volunteers unveiled their safety and cutaneous compatibility, as no significant changes in barrier function, stratum corneum hydration nor redness were detected. These results confirm the potentiality of this novel system for skin applications, e.g. cosmetics, taking advantage of the recognized properties of HA and the capacity of BC to control the release of bioactive molecules.

Analytical tools for urocanic acid determination in human samples: A review.

Urocanic acid is a chromophore found in the skin that has been identified as an important immunosuppressant and carcinogenesis mediator through its photoisomerization from trans to cis form induced by ultraviolet radiation. Research on analytical methods that explore urocanic acid isomerization is indispensable to fully understand the deleterious effects mediated by this biomarker. In this context, the current relevant analytical methods for determination of these isomers in human samples are summarized in this review. The methods presented here are applicable to human samples collected by noninvasive methods (or minimally invasive), encompassing an array of analytical techniques, including high-performance capillary electrophoresis, confocal Raman spectroscopy, gas chromatography, high-performance liquid chromatography, and mass spectrometry, among others. Developed high-performance liquid chromatography methods have proven to be advantageous, allowing noninvasive collections for in vivo analysis and the confocal Raman, specially, for real-time analysis. Among all these methods, high-performance liquid chromatography is the most investigated one with mass spectrometry or ultraviolet detector, and the mass spectrometry detector being the most studied in the last years, demonstrating high sensitivity, very low detection limits, and accurate identification, especially for clinical investigations.