Novel aspects of intrinsic and extrinsic aging of human skin: beneficial effects of soy extract.

Biochemical and structural changes of the dermal connective tissue substantially contribute to the phenotype of aging skin. To study connective tissue metabolism with respect to ultraviolet (UV) exposure, we performed an in vitro (human dermal fibroblasts) and an in vivo complementary DNA array study in combination with protein analysis in young and old volunteers. Several genes of the collagen metabolism such as Collagen I, III and VI as well as heat shock protein 47 and matrix metalloproteinase-1 are expressed differentially, indicating UV-mediated effects on collagen expression, processing and degradation. In particular, Collagen I is time and age dependently reduced after a single UV exposure in human skin in vivo. Moreover, older subjects display a lower baseline level and a shorter UV-mediated increase in hyaluronan (HA) levels. To counteract these age-dependent changes, cultured fibroblasts were treated with a specific soy extract. This treatment resulted in increased collagen and HA synthesis. In a placebo-controlled in vivo study, topical application of an isoflavone-containing emulsion significantly enhanced the number of dermal papillae per area after 2 weeks. Because the flattening of the dermal-epidermal junction is the most reproducible structural change in aged skin, this soy extract appears to rejuvenate the structure of mature skin.

Tight control of matrix metalloproteinase-1 activity in human skin.

Chronic ultraviolet irradiation leads to photoaging in human skin, which is associated with degradation of connective tissue. This is partly due to the fibroblast collagenase (matrix metalloproteinase 1 [MMP-1]). Using complementary DNA array technique we demonstrate that after UV irradiation, MMP-1, MMP-3 and the tissue inhibitor of matrix metalloproteinase 1 (TIMP-1) are time-dependently induced on the messenger RNA level in dermal fibroblasts in vitro and in vivo in human buttock skin. This increase in gene expression is paralleled by an increase of latent and active MMP-1 protein after low-dose UV-A exposure in vitro. In vivo the concentration of latent MMP-1 in suction blister fluids peaks 24 h after irradiation with 2 minimal erythema doses of solar simulated radiation. However, only a small proportion of MMP-1 in vitro (5.5 +/- 1.5%) and in vivo is active, whereas the majority of MMP-1 remains in its inactive proform. Interestingly, in suction blister fluid the concentration and duration of TIMP-1 expression exceeds that of MMP-1. Taken together, these data indicate that MMP-1 activity is tightly regulated transcriptionally and posttranscriptionally. Furthermore, the pronounced individual differences in all targets investigated provide a possible explanation for the different susceptibility of individuals to UV exposure and, thus, to the clinical features of photodamage.