Macrocystis pyrifera ferment-containing creams for optimizing facial skin rejuvenation.

BACKGROUND: There is an increasing demand for facial skin rejuvenation. Specialized aesthetic skincare treatments may be one of the first steps to help prevent or treat facial signs of aging. This article discusses aesthetic skin care for facial skin rejuvenation, particularly data on two creams containing Macrocystis pyrifera ferment. METHODS: The authors convened a dermatology advisory board to discuss challenges and practices in using skincare for facial rejuvenation, combining their expert opinion and experience on facial rejuvenation with preclinical and clinical data on two creams containing Macrocystis pyrifera ferment and a review of the literature. RESULTS: Preclinical and clinical studies on Macrocystis pyrifera ferment and two creams containing the ferment exhibit anti-inflammatory, anti-aging, and healing properties. In preclinical studies, the ferment demonstrated collagen type I enhancing properties in ex vivo skin models, and skin cells treated with the ferment migrated faster than untreated cells in the in vitro study. In clinical studies measuring visible anti-inflammatory activity, the ferment alone and the ferment-containing products significantly decreased erythema, and in anti-aging studies, they improved visible skin aging parameters. Finally, in clinical studies on the stratum corneum, the two creams increased moisture levels and decreased transepidermal water loss (TEWL), reflecting healing by enhancing barrier strength and recovery. CONCLUSIONS: The Macrocystis pyrifera ferment and creams containing the ferment are effective skin care treatment products to decrease the visible effects of inflammation and signs of aging while promoting healing by enhancing barrier resilience and recovery.

Mitofusin-2 Negatively Regulates Melanogenesis by Modulating Mitochondrial ROS Generation.

Inter-organellar communication is emerging as one of the most crucial regulators of cellular physiology. One of the key regulators of inter-organellar communication is Mitofusin-2 (MFN2). MFN2 is also involved in mediating mitochondrial fusion-fission dynamics. Further, it facilitates mitochondrial crosstalk with the endoplasmic reticulum, lysosomes and melanosomes, which are lysosome-related organelles specialized in melanin synthesis within melanocytes. However, the role of MFN2 in regulating melanocyte-specific cellular function, i.e., melanogenesis, remains poorly understood. Here, using a B16 mouse melanoma cell line and primary human melanocytes, we report that MFN2 negatively regulates melanogenesis. Both the transient and stable knockdown of MFN2 leads to enhanced melanogenesis, which is associated with an increase in the number of mature (stage III and IV) melanosomes and the augmented expression of key melanogenic enzymes. Further, the ectopic expression of MFN2 in MFN2-silenced cells leads to the complete rescue of the phenotype at the cellular and molecular levels. Mechanistically, MFN2-silencing elevates mitochondrial reactive-oxygen-species (ROS) levels which in turn increases melanogenesis. ROS quenching with the antioxidant N-acetyl cysteine (NAC) reverses the MFN2-knockdown-mediated increase in melanogenesis. Moreover, MFN2 expression is significantly lower in the darkly pigmented primary human melanocytes in comparison to lightly pigmented melanocytes, highlighting a potential contribution of lower MFN2 levels to higher physiological pigmentation. Taken together, our work establishes MFN2 as a novel negative regulator of melanogenesis.

Superior even skin tone and anti-ageing benefit of a combination of 4-hexylresorcinol and niacinamide.

OBJECTIVES: To demonstrate the synergistic effect of 4-hexylresorcinol (4-HR) with niacinamide in boosting anti-melanogenic efficacy in vitro and establish the in vivo efficacy and safety of the combination in a human trial. METHODS: Primary human epidermal melanocytes and 3D pigmented skin equivalents were treated with 4-HR, niacinamide, and their combinations for their effect on pigmentation. This was followed by a randomized, double-blind, split-face clinical study in Chinese subjects, and effects on skin tone, hyperpigmentation, fine lines and wrinkles, hydration, and skin firmness were measured for a 12-week study period. RESULTS: In vitro tyrosinase enzyme activity studies showed that 4-HR is one of the most potent tyrosinase inhibitors. The combination of 4-HR and niacinamide showed a synergistic reduction in melanin production in cultured melanocytes and lightened the 3D skin equivalent model. In vitro as well as in the human trial, the combination of 4-HR and niacinamide showed significantly improved efficacy over niacinamide alone on hyperpigmentation spots as measured by L*, the visual appearance of fine lines and wrinkles in crow's feet and perioral area and skin firmness, with no product-related adverse events. CONCLUSIONS: A formulation containing a combination of 4-HR and niacinamide delivered superior skin tone and anti-ageing benefits significantly better than niacinamide alone with no adverse events. This study demonstrates that a product designed to affect multiple pathways of melanogenesis, inflammation, and ageing may provide an additional treatment option, beyond hydroquinone and retinoids, for hyperpigmentation and ageing.

OBJECTIFS: Démontrer l'effet synergique du 4-hexylrésorcinol (4-HR) associé au niacinamide pour stimuler in vitro l'efficacité antimélanogène, et établir l'efficacité et la sécurité d'emploi in vivo de cette association dans un essai chez l'homme. MÉTHODES: Des mélanocytes épidermiques humains primaires et des équivalents cutanés pigmentés en 3D ont été traités avec du 4-HR, du niacinamide et leurs combinaisons pour leur effet sur la pigmentation. Ceci a été suivi d'une étude clinique randomisée, en double aveugle en hémi-visage chez des sujets chinois, et les effets sur le teint, l'hyperpigmentation, les rides et ridules, l'hydratation et la fermeté de la peau ont été mesurés pendant une durée d'étude de 12 semaines. RÉSULTATS: Les études in vitro sur l'activité enzymatique de la tyrosinase ont montré que le 4-HR est l'un des inhibiteurs de la tyrosinase les plus puissants. L'association du 4-HR et du niacinamide a montré une réduction synergique de la production de mélanine dans les mélanocytes de culture et donné de la luminosité au modèle cutané 3D équivalent. Également in vitro avec l'étude chez l'homme, l'association du 4-HR et du niacinamide a fait ressortir une efficacité significativement plus élevée qu'avec le niacinamide seul sur les taches d'hyperpigmentation mesurées par L*, l'aspect visuel des rides et ridules des pattes d'oie et de la zone périorale, et la fermeté de la peau, sans événements indésirables liés au produit. CONCLUSIONS: Une formulation contenant une association de 4-HR et de niacinamide a permis d'obtenir un teint et un effet anti-âge nettement supérieurs à ceux du niacinamide seul, sans événements indésirables. Cette étude démontre qu'un produit conçu pour toucher plusieurs voies de mélanogenèse, d'inflammation et de vieillissement peut constituer une nouvelle option thérapeutique, au-delà de l'hydroquinone et des rétinoïdes, pour l'hyperpigmentation et le vieillissement.

Traffic-derived air pollution compromises skin barrier function and stratum corneum redox status: A population study.

BACKGROUND: Since air pollution is only one of many environmental stressors that can affect skin, it has been challenging to identify skin appearance or functional features profoundly affected by chronic exposure to traffic-derived air pollution. AIMS: The current population study focused on taxi drivers working in urban and rural areas in order to take advantage of difference in occupational exposure. METHODS: The skin conditions of 100 middle-aged male taxi drivers from urban Shanghai and 66 from rural Chongming were measured with facial tape strips were collected for biomarker analyses. RESULTS: Trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL) values before and after tape stripping were considerably higher in urban taxi drivers from Shanghai. Contrary to previous studies, there was no apparent detrimental effect on skin wrinkle or pigmentation from traffic pollution, which might be attributed to the higher than general public level of photo-exposure in this population. At the same time, pollution exposure especially the heavy traffic pollution exposure was found to associate with lower stratum corneum trypsin-like enzyme activity (SCTE), reduced catalase activity and total antioxidant capacity (TAOC) in tape strips. CONCLUSION: The evidence suggests that traffic-derived air pollution could deteriorate skin's physical and antioxidant barrier, whereas factors like photo-exposure can be overwhelming against appearance aging. Therefore, in addition to photoprotection, skin barrier care should be considered for people with high air pollution exposure.

Growth differentiation factor 11 (GDF11) has pronounced effects on skin biology.

Growth differentiation factor 11 (GDF11) belongs to the TGF-ß superfamily of proteins and is closely related to myostatin. Recent findings show that GDF11 has rejuvenating properties with pronounced effects on the cardiovascular system, brain, skeletal muscle, and skeleton in mice. Several human studies were also conducted, some implicating decreasing levels of circulating GDF11 with age. To date, however, there have not been any reports on its role in human skin. This study examined the impact of GDF11 on human skin, specifically related to skin aging. The effect of recombinant GDF11 on the function of various skin cells was examined in human epidermal keratinocytes, dermal fibroblasts, melanocytes, dermal microvascular endothelial cells and 3D skin equivalents, as well as in ex vivo human skin explants. GDF11 had significant effects on the production of dermal matrix components in multiple skin models in vitro and ex vivo. In addition, it had a pronounced effect on expression of multiple skin related genes in full thickness 3D skin equivalents. This work, for the first time, demonstrates an important role for GDF11 in skin biology and a potential impact on skin health and aging.

Niacinamide and 12-hydroxystearic acid prevented benzo(a)pyrene and squalene peroxides induced hyperpigmentation in skin equivalent.

Skin surface is constantly exposed to environmental and secreted stressors such as UV, air pollution and peroxidized sebum. The current study aims to use reconstructed human skin equivalents to demonstrate topical stressor-induced hyperpigmentation and evaluate bioactives' potential protective effect. Given that polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons are representative airborne particle-bound organic compounds with known relevance to pigmentation pathways, benzo(a)pyrene was selected as surrogate environmental toxin. On the other hand, squalene monohydroperoxides are well-characterized sebum peroxidation product under UV and pollutant exposure, thus are used as another representative skin stressor. With 3-day continuous exposure, 30 pmol/cm2 of benzo(a)pyrene and 3.4 nmol/cm2 of squalene monohydroperoxides induced significant viability loss, inflammatory response, and approximately 10 shades of pigmentation increase in pigmented living skin equivalents. At the same time, pretreatment and co-treatment with 12-hydroxystearic acid (12-HSA, 20 µmol/L) or niacinamide (5 mmol/L) ameliorated such stressor-induced consequences. Niacinamide was particularly effective against benzo(a)pyrene damage, probably as a substrate for important NAD+ dependent detoxification pathways, while 12-HSA was potent against squalene monohydroperoxides through barrier enhancing, anti-inflammatory, and anti-oxidative mechanisms. In summary, topical stressor-induced hyperpigmentation was achieved in vitro, with known bioactives showing protective benefits.

In vivo multiphoton microscopy of melasma.

Melasma is a skin disorder characterized by hyperpigmented patches due to increased melanin production and deposition. In this pilot study, we evaluate the potential of multiphoton microscopy (MPM) to characterize non-invasively the melanin content, location, and distribution in melasma and assess the elastosis severity. We employed a clinical MPM tomograph to image in vivo morphological features in melasma lesions and adjacent normal skin in 12 patients. We imaged dermal melanophages in most dermal melasma lesions and occasionally in epidermal melasma. The melanin volume fraction values measured in epidermal melasma (14% ± 4%) were significantly higher (p < 0.05) than the values measured in perilesional skin (11% ± 3%). The basal keratinocytes of melasma and perilesions showed different melanin distribution. Elastosis was predominantly more severe in lesions than in perilesions and was associated with changes in melanin distribution of the basal keratinocytes. These results demonstrate that MPM may be a non-invasive imaging tool for characterizing melasma.

Novel virtual screening approach for the discovery of human tyrosinase inhibitors.

Tyrosinase is the key enzyme involved in the human pigmentation process, as well as the undesired browning of fruits and vegetables. Compounds inhibiting tyrosinase catalytic activity are an important class of cosmetic and dermatological agents which show high potential as depigmentation agents used for skin lightening. The multi-step protocol employed for the identification of novel tyrosinase inhibitors incorporated the Shape Signatures computational algorithm for rapid screening of chemical libraries. This algorithm converts the size and shape of a molecule, as well its surface charge distribution and other bio-relevant properties, into compact histograms (signatures) that lend themselves to rapid comparison between molecules. Shape Signatures excels at scaffold hopping across different chemical families, which enables identification of new actives whose molecular structure is distinct from other known actives. Using this approach, we identified a novel class of depigmentation agents that demonstrated promise for skin lightening product development.

Investigation of age-related decline of microfibril-associated glycoprotein-1 in human skin through immunohistochemistry study.

During aging, the reduction of elastic and collagen fibers in dermis can lead to skin atrophy, fragility, and aged appearance, such as increased facial wrinkling and sagging. Microfibril-associated glycoprotein-1 (MAGP-1) is an extracellular matrix protein critical for elastic fiber assembly. It integrates and stabilizes the microfibril and elastin matrix network that helps the skin to endure mechanical stretch and recoil. However, the observation of MAGP-1 during skin aging and its function in the dermis has not been established. To better understand age-related changes in the dermis, we investigated MAGP-1 during skin aging and photoaging, using a combination of in vitro and in vivo studies. Gene expression by microarray was performed using human skin biopsies from young and aged female donors. In addition, immunofluorescence analysis on the MAGP-1 protein was performed in dermal fibroblast cultures and in human skin biopsies. Specific antibodies against MAGP-1 and fibrillin-1 were used to examine protein expression and extracellular matrix structure in the dermis via biopsies from donors of multiple age groups. A reduction of the MAGP-1 gene and protein levels were observed in human skin with increasing age and photoexposure, indicating a loss of the functional MAGP-1 fiber network and a lack of structural support in the dermis. Loss of MAGP-1 around the hair follicle/pore areas was also observed, suggesting a possible correlation between MAGP-1 loss and enlarged pores in aged skin. Our findings demonstrate that a critical "pre-elasticity" component, MAGP-1, declines with aging and photoaging. Such changes may contribute to age-related loss of dermal integrity and perifollicular structural support, which may lead to skin fragility, sagging, and enlarged pores.

Biological effects of glycolic acid on dermal matrix metabolism mediated by dermal fibroblasts and epidermal keratinocytes.

Glycolic acid (GA), one of the alpha-hydroxy acids, is widely used as an agent for chemical peeling. Although there are several reports about the clinical effects of GA in the literature, its biological mechanism remains mostly unclear, and there are only a few reports about its effects on skin rejuvenation mediated by keratinocytes. The aim of this study was to investigate the effect of GA on the dermal matrix metabolism of keratinocytes and fibroblasts using in vitro and ex vivo systems. Our study shows that GA not only directly accelerates collagen synthesis by fibroblasts, but it also modulates matrix degradation and collagen synthesis through keratinocyte-released cytokines. We confirm that IL-1alpha is one of the primary mediators for matrix degradation released from keratinocytes after GA treatment. These results suggest that GA contributes to the recovery of photodamaged skin through various actions, depending on the skin cell type.