Topical activity of ascorbic acid: from in vitro optimization to in vivo efficacy.

We present here a new cosmetic formula system containing 3% ascorbic acid based on an optimized oil-in-water (O/W) emulsion. This formulation demonstrated a good long-term stability of the active ingredient and also of the emulsion itself. It could be deduced from in vitro release studies that this O/W emulsion enabled a better release of the hydrophilic active agent than an alternative W/O emulsion. By measuring the ultraweak photon emission, which is a well-established parameter for the oxidative stress in the skin, the high in vivo antioxidant capacity of 3% ascorbic acid was demonstrated after 1 week of product application. This placebo-controlled study also proved that ascorbic acid in an O/W cream reduced oxidative stress in human skin significantly better than the derivative sodium ascorbyl-2-phosphate, a more stable vitamin C replacement commonly used in cosmetic formulations. With increasing age, the number of papillae in the epidermal-dermal junction zone in human skin are reduced. This implies a possible consequence of reduced mechanical resistance of the skin and impaired supply of the epidermis with nutrients. In a 1-month placebo-controlled study on 25 human volunteers, a significant increase in the number of dermal papillae after application of the 3% ascorbic acid cream was demonstrated, using a confocal laser scanning microscope. Fine lines and wrinkles are a characteristic sign of aged and especially photo-aged skin. Application of 3% ascorbic acid in a 12-week placebo-controlled usage study indicated a significant reduction of facial wrinkles. Altogether, 3% ascorbic acid in a cosmetic O/W emulsion has been shown to be appropriately stable and to enable a good release of the active agent in vitro as a precondition for a high efficacy in vivo. Application in vivo resulted in a significant reduction of oxidative stress in the skin, an improvement of the epidermal-dermal microstructure and a reduction of fine lines and wrinkles in aged skin. These results were received within a relatively short period of time of product application.

Effects of repeated sunbed exposures on the human skin. In vivo measurements with confocal microscopy.

BACKGROUND: Ultraviolet (UV) lamps used in commercial sunbeds are usually defined as UVA sources. Although it is well accepted that sunbed exposure significantly increases melanin pigmentation, its capacity to induce epidermal thickening is discussed controversially. OBJECTIVES: The aim of this study was to assess non-invasively the effects of repeated sunbed exposures on epidermal thickness, cell size, and pigmentation by means of confocal laser-scanning microscopy (CLSM) in vivo. METHODS: Eight volunteers had sunbed exposures six times in a 3-week period (cumulative dose: 126 J/cm(2) UVA). During irradiation, a small site (2 cm x 2 cm) on the lateral aspect of the inner forearm was covered with a UV-opaque sheet (non-exposed site). CLSM was performed with the Vivascope (Lucid, Henrietta, NY, USA) 24 h after the last UVA exposure on non-exposed sites and UVA-exposed sites that were on the medial aspect of the inner forearm at a distance of 2 cm to the non-exposed measurement site. The following parameters were assessed: thickness of the horny layer (DSC), minimal thickness of the epidermis (E(min)), minimal thickness of the viable epidermis (VE(min)), cell size of the granular layer (A(gran)), and the epidermal melanin content (MI). Additionally, colorimetric measurements have been carried out on non-exposed and UVA-exposed sites. RESULTS: DSC of the UVA-exposed skin was significantly higher than the one of non-exposed sites (mean+/-SD: 15+/-2.9 microm vs. 12.8+/-3 microm). Although E(min) was significantly higher in UVA-exposed sites (mean+/-SD: 40.4+/-3.6 microm vs. 39+/-2.9 microm), a slight but not statistically significant (P>0.05) decrease of VE(min) was observed (25.5+/-2.1 microm vs. 26.2+/-2.4 microm). The median of cell size of the granular layer (A(gran)) significantly (P=0.008) differed between non-exposed (752.1 microm(2)) and UVA-exposed sites (600 microm(2)). MI was significantly (P=0.014) higher for the UVA-exposed skin (1.12 vs. 1.34). Accordingly, colorimetry revealed significantly (P< 0.01) lower skin brightness for UVA-exposed sites (L*=60.2+/-4.3) as compared with non-exposed sites (L*=63.4+/-3.9). CONCLUSIONS: Sunbed exposures seem to induce photoadaptation not only by skin pigmentation but also by epidermal thickening that is predominantly due to an increase in thickness of the horny layer. Moreover, our data indicate that UVA radiation has an influence on the cell size of the granular layer. CLSM is a promising tool for photobiological studies in vivo.

Investigation of basal cell carcinoma [correction of carcionoma] by confocal laser scanning microscopy in vivo.

BACKGROUND/PURPOSE: In vivo confocal laser scanning microscopy (CLSM) allows to study human skin up to 200 micro m deep non-invasively. Aim of this study was to investigate basal cell carcinoma (BCC) using in vivo CLSM, and to compare the micromorphologic features of BCC with uninvolved skin. METHODS: Twelve patients with histological diagnosis of BCC referred to our department for tumor excision were investigated on the lesion(s) and on clinically uninvolved sites preoperatively by in vivo CLSM using the Vivascope 1000 (Lucid Inc., Rochester, USA). The images were compared to histological examinations of the excised tissue. RESULTS: Typical changes in vasculature such as increase in number and diameter of the blood vessels, loss of the vascular architecture, parallelly and horizontally orientated vessels, and accumulation and rolling phenomena of bright reflecting cells of 11.88 +/- 1.75 micro m in diameter along the vessel wall were observed in all BCCs. The tumor stroma of the BCCs showed a strong reflectance mainly due to numerous bundles of collagen fibers encoating dark, cell-rich areas of tumor parenchym. In five patients, slim basaloid cells with relatively large, elongated dark nuclei were observed in the periphery of the tumor parenchym. In the fibrosing type of BCC, curled bundles of collagen with large cells represented the tumor stroma. CONCLUSIONS: BCC can be investigated by CLSM and provide typical features. Besides the tumor parenchym and stroma, typical changes in vasculature seem to be a sensitive criteria for BCC and may in future help in diagnosing BCC by CLSM as well as in assessing the margins of large tumors. We suggest that CLSM is a promising non-invasive tool for the diagnostics of BCC and the assessment of tumor margins prior to surgery.

Uncommon vascular naevi associated with focal acantholytic dyskeratosis.

Cutis marmorata telangiectatica congenita and vascular twin naevi are rare vascular anomalies in which focal acantholytic dyskeratosis is usually not observed. We describe a 44-year-old-man who presented for evaluation of skin lesions that had been present since birth. Physical examination revealed anaemic macules adjacent to a naevus telangiectaticus on the chest. Naevus anaemicus was also seen on the shoulders, arms, and left leg. There was bluish-reddish reticulate marking of the skin and cutaneous atrophy. Shortening and hypoplasia of the left leg was observed. Histologic examination of two biopsy specimens revealed focal acantholytic dyskeratosis. In vivo confocal laser scanning microscopy showed dilated capillaries and vessels of the upper dermal plexus in the telangiectatic and decreased capillary blood flow in the anaemic skin sites. The findings were consistent with a diagnosis of cutis marmorata telangiectatica congenita, vascular twin naevi, and incidental focal acantholytic dyskeratosis. The particularities of the present case are the following: firstly, the association of two rare vascular anomalies to which the genetic concept of mosaicism can be applied; secondly, the occurrence of incidental focal acantholytic dyskeratosis in sites of vascular naevi.

Serum folate levels after UVA exposure: a two-group parallel randomised controlled trial.

BACKGROUND: Photodegradation of certain vitamins such as riboflavins, carotinoids, tocopherol, and folate has been well-documented. Previous observations suggest that ultraviolet (UV) radiation may cause folate deficiency. This is of great importance since folate deficiency is also known to be linked with the development of neural tube defects. To investigate the influence of UVA radiation on serum folate levels in vivo, we conducted a two-group randomised controlled trial on healthy subjects. MATERIAL AND METHODS: Twenty-four healthy volunteers with skin type II were enrolled into the study. Eight volunteers of the study population were randomly assigned to the control group. UVA irradiation was administered with an air-conditioned sunbed. Blood samples were taken from all volunteers at baseline (T1), 30 min after the first UVA exposure (T2), and at the end of the study 24 h after the sixth UV exposure (T3). The volunteers had two UVA exposures weekly within three weeks (cumulative UVA dose: 96 J/cm2). Volunteers of the control group had no UVA exposures. Serum folate was analysed with an automated immunoassay system. RESULTS: At all times of blood collection the differences between serum folate levels were insignificant (P > 0.05), except of the non-exposed controls at T2 (P < 0.05). We did not observed significant differences of folate levels between UVA exposed and non-exposed volunteers (P > 0.05). CONCLUSIONS: Our data suggest that both single and serial UVA exposures do not significantly influence serum folate levels of healthy subjects. Therefore, neural tube defects claimed to occur after periconceptual UVA exposure are probably not due to UVA induced folate deficiency.