Synergistic use of bioactive agents for the management of different skin conditions: an overview of biological activities.

Recently, many plant-derived bioactive agents have been included in dermo-cosmetics formulations. This leads to an extensive portfolio of innovative products with an expanded range of benefits, including anti-aging, antioxidant, hydrating and depigmenting. Although different technologies drawing on science and nature are used to create these high-performing molecules, there remains some debate about the mechanism of action of the natural bioactive ingredients within dermo-cosmetics. This review recapitulates the main biological mechanisms underlying the activity of natural active ingredients, with a specific focus on their synergistic use for the management of common, yet quite specific, skin conditions. A total of 28 plant-derived bioactives were selected from the Givaudan Active Beauty (Argenteuil, France) portfolio, a multinational company specializing in innovative natural actives research. An extensive literature review about their biological activity was conducted by a PubMed search using different keywords. No language or publication date restrictions were used. Givaudan Active Beauty data on file were also considered. The bioactive ingredients were described according to the pathogenetic mechanisms underlying 10 common skin conditions that dermo-cosmetics may address. Literature data have shown that plant-derived bioactives are involved in a wide range of biological mechanisms showing anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, and moisturizing properties, along with skin barrier protection and collagen synthesis activities. As a result, different combinations of bioactives within dermo-cosmetics can be defined to counteract simultaneously the different pathogenetic mechanisms underlying different skin conditions. Available literature supports the synergistic use of plant-derived bioactive agents within dermo-cosmetics as a viable and safe option for managing the most common skin conditions.

Conformation changes in human hair keratin observed using confocal Raman spectroscopy after active ingredient application.

OBJECTIVE: In hair care cosmetic products' evaluation, one commonly used method is to evaluate the hair appearance as a gold standard in order to determine the effect of an active ingredient on the final state of the hair via visual appreciation. Although other techniques have been proposed for a direct analysis of the hair fibres, they give only surface or structural information, without any accurate molecular information. A different approach based on confocal Raman spectroscopy has been proposed for tracking in situ the molecular change in the keratin directly in the human hair fibres. It presents a high molecular specificity to detect chemical interactions between molecules and can provide molecular information at various depths at the cortex and cuticle levels. METHODS: To evaluate the potential of confocal Raman spectroscopy in testing the efficiency of cosmetic ingredients on keratin structure, we undertook a pilot study on the effectiveness of a smoothing shampoo on natural human hair, by analysing α-helix and ß-sheet spectral markers in the Amide I band and spectral markers specific to the cystin sulfur content. RESULTS: We confirmed that an active proved to be effective on a gold standard decreases α-helix keratin conformation and promotes ß-sheet keratin conformation in the hair fibres. We also showed that treatment with the effective active decreases the intensity of covalent disulfide (S-S at 510 cm-1 ) cross-linking bands of cysteine. These data confirm that the effective active also acts on the tertiary structure of keratin. CONCLUSION: From these experiments, we concluded that the effective active has a smoothing effect on the human hair fibres by acting on α-helix and ß-sheet keratin conformation and on the tertiary structure of keratin. Based on these results, confocal Raman spectroscopy can be considered a powerful technique for investigating the influence of hair cosmetic ingredients on keratin structure in human hair fibres. Moreover, this analytical technique has the advantage of being non-destructive and label free; in addition, it does not require sample extraction or purification and it can be applied routinely in cosmetic laboratories.

OBJECTIF: Dans l'évaluation des produits cosmétiques pour le soin des cheveux, une méthode communément utilisée consiste à évaluer l'aspect des cheveux afin de déterminer l'effet d'un principe actif sur l'état final des cheveux via l'appréciation visuelle. Bien que d'autres techniques ont été proposées pour une analyse directe de la fibre capillaire, elles ne donnent que des informations de surface ou de structure, sans aucune information moléculaire précise. Une approche différente par la spectroscopie confocale Raman a été proposée pour le suivi in situ du changement moléculaire de la kératine directement dans les fibres de cheveux humains. Il présente une grande spécificité moléculaire, détecter les interactions chimiques entre les molécules et peut fournir des informations moléculaires à différents niveaux de profondeur du cortex et de la cuticule. MÉTHODES: Afin d'évaluer le potentiel de la spectroscopie Raman confocale pour tester l'efficacité des ingrédients cosmétiques sur la structure de la kératine, nous avons entrepris une étude pilote sur l'efficacité d'un shampooing lissant sur cheveux naturels, en analysant les marqueurs spectraux de l'hélice α et du feuillet ß dans la bande Amide I et les marqueurs spectraux spécifiques au contenu en sulfure-cystine. RÉSULTATS: Nous avons confirmé qu'un actif s'avérant efficace sur un gold standard diminue la conformation de la kératine en hélice α et favorise la conformation de la kératine en feuillet ß dans les fibres des cheveux. Nous avons également montré que le traitement avec l'actif efficace diminue l'intensité des bandes de cystéine réticulant sous forme de ponts disulfures covalents (S - S à 510 cm-1). Ces données confirment que l'actif efficace agit également sur la structure tertiaire de la kératine. CONCLUSION: À partir de ces expériences, nous avons conclu que l'actif efficace a un effet lissant sur les fibres du cheveu humain en agissant sur la conformation hélice α et feuillet ß de la kératine et sur la structure tertiaire de la kératine. Sur la base de ces résultats, la spectroscopie confocale Raman peut être considérée comme une technique puissante pour étudier l'influence des ingrédients cosmétiques sur la structure de la kératine dans les fibres de cheveux. De plus, cette technique analytique a l'avantage d'être non destructive et ne nécessite pas de marquage; de plus, elle ne nécessite pas d'extraction ou de purification des échantillons et peut être appliquée en routine dans les laboratoires de cosmétiques.

Live performance, carcass quality, and economic assessment of over 100kg slaughtered pigs / Desempenho, qualidade de carcaça e avaliação econômica de suínos abatidos acima de 100kg

Recent genetic improvement has developed pigs with maximum potential for protein deposit at higher weights; however, their optimal slaughter weight still needs to be determined. The objective of the study was to evaluate live performance, carcass traits, and economic viability of 417 Agroceres PIC pigs slaughtered with 100, 115, 130, and 145kg live weight. Pigs were reared in pens with 10-11 barrows and gilts each, offered a feed allowance of 2.8kg/pig/day until the following slaughter weights (SW): 99.65±0.82kg, 118.53±0.98kg, 133.97±1.17kg, and 143.90±1.24. There was no interaction between sex and SW (P>0.05). Backfat thickness, fat area, and loin eye area linearly increased with SW (P<0.001; R2: 70.12-77.44%), and carcass yield increased in a quadratic manner (P<0.001; R²=24.66%). Lean yield was not affected (P>0.05), and feed conversion ratio (R²=43.29%) linearly worsened with SW (P<0.001), but the effect of SW on live production cost (R$/kg) was quadratic, with the minimum point at 134.8kg. It was concluded that, under the applied management, increasing SW results in larger amount of lean tissue with no change in its yield and little effect on growth performance.

A evolução das linhagens sintéticas de suínos propiciou a obtenção de animais com potencial máximo de deposição proteica em pesos superiores; entretanto o peso ótimo de abate dessas linhagens não é conhecido. O objetivo do estudo foi avaliar o desempenho, características de carcaça e avaliação econômica de 417 suínos da linhagem Agroceres PIC abatidos com 100, 115, 130 e 145kg de peso vivo. Os suínos foram criados em baias com 10-11 machos ou fêmeas, com fornecimento programado de 2,8kg de ração por animal, por dia, a partir de 80kg até os pesos de abate (PA) de 99.65±0.82kg, 118.53±0.98kg, 133.97±1.17kg, e 143.90±1.24. Não houve interação entre sexo e PA (P>0,05). A espessura de toucinho, área de gordura e área de olho de lombo aumentaram linearmente com o PA (P<0,001; R² entre 70,12 e 77,44%), e o rendimento de carcaça aumentou de forma quadrática (P<0,001; R²=24,66%). A porcentagem de carne magra não foi afetada (P>0.05) e a conversão alimentar (R²=43,29%) apresentou discreta piora linear com o PA (P<0,001), mas o efeito sobre o custo de produção (R$/Kg) foi quadrático, com ponto de mínima aos 134,85kg. Conclui-se que, com o manejo utilizado, a elevação do PA resulta em aumento na quantidade de carne produzida sem alteração no seu rendimento e apresenta pouco efeito sobre o desempenho.

Meat quality and cut yield of pigs slaughtered over 100kg live weight / Qualidade de carne e rendimento de cortes de suínos abatidos acima de 100kg de peso vivo

Meat quality and cut yield of pigs slaughtered between 100 and 150kg live weight were evaluated. Pigs (417 Agroceres PIC barrows and gilts) were fed a daily allowance of 2.8kg per head from 80kg until 100.71±0.85, 118.58±0.99, 134.07±1.18 or 143.90±1.24kg live weight. Seventy-one pigs were used for the evaluation of primal and subprimal cuts. There was no interaction between sex and slaughter weight for any of the evaluated parameters. Ham, shoulder, and loin weights linearly increased (P<0.01; R2: 84.3-93.2%) with increasing slaughter weight, which, however, had little effect on primal cuts meat yield. Increasing slaughter weight promoted a linear (P<0.05) and a quadratic (P<0.01) increase of red/green coordinate (a* value) of the loin and ham, respectively. Shear force showed a quadratic response (P<0.05), with minimum value estimated at 122kg slaughter weight. It was concluded that, under the applied management, increasing slaughter weight increased the volume of meat, but had little effect on meat yield. The meat of pigs slaughtered at heavier weights showed more intense red color and the same intramuscular fat content as lighter pigs, while tenderness was slightly affected.

Foi avaliada a qualidade da carne e os cortes de suínos abatidos entre 100 e 145kg de peso vivo. Os suínos (417 machos castrados e fêmeas, linhagem Agroceres PIC) foram mantidos sob fornecimento programado de 2,8kg de ração por animal por dia a partir de 80kg até o abate aos: 100,71±0,85, 118,58±0,99, 134,07±1,18 ou 143,90±1,24kg de peso vivo. Destes, 71 suínos foram usados para avaliação dos cortes primários e secundários. Não foi observada interação entre sexo e peso de abate em nenhuma das variáveis avaliadas. Os pesos do pernil, da paleta e do carré aumentaram linearmente (P<0,01; R2entre 84,3 e 93,2%) com o peso de abate, com pouco efeito sobre o rendimento da carne. A coordenada vermelho/verde (valor de a*) aumentou linearmente (P<0,05) no lombo e de forma quadrática (P<0,01) no pernil com o aumento do peso de abate. A força de cisalhamento apresentou resposta quadrática (P<0,05), com redução até o valor mínimo estimado para os 122kg de peso vivo. Conclui-se que, com o manejo utilizado neste estudo, a elevação do peso de abate resulta em aumento na quantidade de carne produzida, com pouco efeito sobre o rendimento de carne. A carne de suínos abatidos em pesos elevados apresenta cor vermelha mais intensa e mesmo nível de gordura intramuscular que a carne de suínos mais leves, enquanto a maciez é alterada apenas de maneira discreta.

Efeito da adição de agentes tróficos na dieta de leitões desmamados sobre a estrutura e ultraestrutura do intestino delgado e sobre o desempenho / The effect of the addition of trofic agents in weaned piglet diets over the structure and ultra-structure of small intestine and over performance

Foram estudados os efeitos da glutamina, dos ácidos graxos poli-insaturados e da parede celular de levedura (PCL) sobre a estrutura e ultraestrutura do intestino delgado e o desempenho de leitões. Foram utilizados 45 leitões, desmamados aos 21 dias de idade, para testar os seguintes tratamentos: T1 - dieta basal; T2 - dieta basal + 1 por cento de glutamina; T3 - dieta basal + 0,2 por cento de PCL; T4 - dieta basal + 5 por cento de óleo de peixe. Nos dias sete e 14 pós-desmame, foram abatidos cinco leitões de cada tratamento. Os aditivos testados não alteraram a altura e a densidade dos vilos nem a profundidade das criptas do intestino delgado. Foi observado efeito de idade, mostrando redução na altura e na densidade dos vilos e na profundidade das criptas após o desmame. No duodeno e jejuno, foram observados maiores valores de relação vilo:cripta, que aumentaram com a idade pós-desmame. Ocorreram redução da altura dos microvilos do duodeno aos sete dias e aumento da largura dos microvilos do jejuno aos 14 dias pós-desmame. A área de superfície apical dos enterócitos não foi alterada pelos fatores estudados. Os aditivos estudados não foram eficientes em prevenir a atrofia da mucosa intestinal do jejuno, ao não interferir na sua ultraestrutura. Os aditivos incluídos na dieta não influenciaram o desempenho dos leitões no pós-desmame.

The effects of glutamine, poliunsatured fatty acids and cellular wall of yeast (CWY) under the structure and ultra structure of the small gut and the performance of the piglets were studied. Forty five piglets weaned at 21 days were used to test the following treatments: T1 - basal diet; T2 - basal diet + 1 percent of glutamine; T3 - basal diet + 0,2 percent of CWY; T4 - basal diet + 5 percent of fish oil. At seven and 14 post weaning days, five piglets of each treatment were slaughtered. The height, density of villus and depth of small gut crypts were not altered by the inclusion of additives. The effect of age was observed, showing a reduction in the height and density of villus and depth of crypts after weaning. In duodenum and jejunum higher values were observed in the relation villus:crypt, which increased with the post wean age. There was a decrease in the height of microvillus of the duodenum at 7 days and an increase of the width of the microvillus of jejunum at 14 days after wean. The area of the apical surface of the enterocytes was not altered by the studied factors. The studied additives were not efficient to prevent the atrophy of the intestinal mucosa of the jejunum, since they did not interfere on its ultra structure. Piglet performance was not affected by the additives included in the diet.

Elastin-derived peptides enhance melanoma growth in vivo by upregulating the activation of Mcol-A (MMP-1) collagenase.

BACKGROUND: Elastin peptides possess several biological activities and in vitro data suggest they could be involved in the early phase of melanoma growth. METHODS: Using diverse in vitro and in vivo techniques (cell proliferation, invasion and migration assays, zymography, western blots, collagen degradation assay, reverse transcription PCR, melanoma allographs and immunohistochemistry), we analysed the effect of elastin-derived peptides (EDPs) on B16F1 melanoma growth and invasion, as well as on the proteolytic systems involved. RESULTS: We found that EDPs dramatically promote in vivo tumour development of B16F1 melanoma, as well as their in vitro migration and invasion. The inhibition of serine proteases and matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs) activities, by aprotinin and galardin, respectively, demonstrated that these enzymes were involved in these processes. However, we found that EDPs did not increase urokinase-type plasminogen activator, tissue-type plasminogen activator or MMP-2 expression and/or activation, neither in vitro nor in vivo. Nevertheless, we observed a strong increase of pro-MMP-9 secretion in EDPs-treated tumours and, more importantly, an increase in the expression and activation of the murine counterpart of MMP-1, named murine collagenase-A (Mcol-A). Moreover, we show that plasminogen system inhibition decreases collagen degradation by this enzyme. Finally, the use of a specific blocking antibody against Mcol-A abolished EDP-induced B16F1 invasion in vitro, showing that this MMP was directly involved in this process. CONCLUSION: Our data show that in vivo, EDPs are involved in melanoma growth and invasion and reinforced the concept of elastin fragmentation as a predictive factor.

Qualitative feed restriction for heavy swines: effect on digestibility and weight of organs of digestive tract, and environmental impact of feces / Restrição alimentar qualitativa para suínos pesados: efeito sobre digestibilidade e peso dos órgãos do trato digestório e impacto ambiental das fezes

A total of 50 barrows were used to evaluate qualitative feed restriction on digestibility of dietary components, weight of organs of digestive tract, and composition and production of feces. Five experimental diets, with increasing levels of qualitative feed restriction of 0, 5, 10, 15, and 20 percent were used. There was linear reduction (P<0.001) of all digestibility coefficients on the levels of qualitative feed restriction, except for acid detergent fiber, which presented a quadratic response (P<0.05). Contents of total solids (P<0.01), volatile solids (P<0.05), and total minerals (P<0.001) in the feces augmented with increasing levels of qualitative feed restriction, whereas the levels of K (P<0.05), Cu (P<0.01), N, P, Na, Ca, Mg, Fe, and Zn (P<0.001) presented a quadratic response. Daily feces excretion; and contents of total solids, volatile solids, total minerals, and levels of N, P, K, Mn, and Cu (P<0.001) and Ca, Na, Mg, and Fe (P<0.05) presented a clear increase in function of the qualitative feed restriction level. Qualitative feed restriction can be an alternative for the disposal of agribusiness waste, providing good crop-fertilizing by the use of swine feces.

Foram utilizados 50 suínos machos castrados para avaliar o efeito da restrição alimentar qualitativa sobre a digestibilidade dos componentes dietéticos, os órgãos do trato digestório, a composição e a produção fecal. Foram utilizadas cinco dietas experimentais, com níveis de restrição qualitativa de 0, 5, 10, 15 e 20 por cento. Houve redução linear (P<0,001) para todos os coeficientes de digestibilidade, com exceção da fibra em detergente ácido, que apresentou resposta quadrática (P<0,05). Os teores de sólidos totais (P<0,01) e voláteis (P<0,05), e minerais totais (P<0,001) nas fezes aumentaram com os níveis de restrição alimentar, enquanto os níveis de K (P<0,05), Cu (P<0,01) e de N, P, Na, Ca, Mg, Fe e Zn (P<0,001), apresentaram resposta quadrática. A excreção diária de fezes, sólidos totais e voláteis, minerais totais, N, P, K, Mn e Cu (P<0,001), Ca, Na, Mg e Fe (P<0,05) apresentaram aumento em função do nível da restrição alimentar qualitativa. A restrição qualitativa pode ser alternativa para destinação de resíduos da agroindústria, conferindo boas propriedades às fezes suínas, no que diz respeito à utilização para adubação de culturas.