In vitro and in vivo confocal Raman study of human skin hydration: assessment of a new moisturizing agent, pMPC.

The hydration capacities of a biomimetic polymer, 2-methacryloyloxethylphosphorylcholine polymer (pMPC), alone and microencapsulated, in association with another well known hydrating polymer, Hyaluronic acid, were investigated in vitro on skin models and in vivo on volunteers by using confocal Raman microspectroscopy. The hydration impact and the relative water content in the Stratum corneum were calculated from the Raman spectra using the OH (water)/CH3 (protein) ratio. Moreover, the follow-up of the presence of pMPC through the Stratum corneum was possible with confocal Raman microspectroscopy, using a characteristic vibration of pMPC, different from that of the encapsulating material. From our in vitro measurements, the improved hydration of the Stratum corneum was confirmed by the use of the encapsulated form of pMPC, which was higher when combined with Hyaluronic acid. On the basis of these in vitro findings, we validated this trend in in vivo measurements on 26 volunteers, and found a good correlation with the in vitro results. Mechanical and ultrastructural studies have been carried out to demonstrate the positive effects of the pMPC on the Stratum corneum function, namely the interaction with lamellar lipids and the plasticizing effects, which are both supposed to spell out the moisturizing effect. This study demonstrates the efficiency of a original hydrating agent, pMPC, entrapped with Hyaluronic acid in a new type of microcapsules by the use of a novel tool developed for both in vitro and in vivo approaches. This indicates a new step to evaluate and improve new moisturizers in response to the cosmetics or dermatologic demands.

Nanoemulsions: a new vehicle for skincare products.

Nanoemulsions consist in very fine oil-in-water dispersions, having droplet diameter smaller than 100 nm. Compared to microemulsions, they are in a metastable state, and their structure depends on the history of the system. In the present work, nanoemulsions were prepared with a high shear device, which is less constraining than spontaneous emulsification procedures. Nanoemulsions are very fragile systems by nature. As they are transparent, the slightest sign of destabilisation appears visually. Two major sources of unstability were identified and extensively studied: Ostwald ripening and depletion induced floculation following the addition of thickening polymers. The control of these two mechanisms allowed the industrial production of a large variety of cosmetic products, from water-like fluids, to ringing gels obtained by increasing the oil phase content or by adding polymers. The nanoemulsions are easily valued in skin care due to their good sensorial properties (rapid penetration, merging textures) and their biophysical properties (especially their hydrating power).