Novel Cosmetic Ingredient CS-AA Polyion Complex and Skin Moisturizing Effect.

PURPOSE: The study explored the enhanced skin moisturizing capabilities and moisture retention effects achieved by forming a polyion complex using sulfated glycosaminoglycan (GAG), specifically chondroitin sulfate (CS), and amino acids (AA) such as glutamine (Q) and arginine (R). The overall hydration effect of this CS-AA complex was examined. METHODS: After analyzing the CS-AA polyion complex structure using spectroscopic methods, the ex vivo moisture retention ability was assessed under dry conditions using porcine skin samples. Additionally, the efficacy of the CS-AA polyion complex in reducing transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and improving skin hydration was evaluated on human subjects using a digital evaporimeter and a corneometer, respectively. RESULTS: Validating a systematic reduction in particle size, the following order was observed: CS > CS/AA simple mixture > CS-AA complex based on dynamic light scattering (DLS) and transmission electron microscopy (TEM) analysis. Furthermore, observations revealed that the CS-AA complex exhibits negligible surface charge. Additionally, Fourier-transform infrared spectroscopy (FT-IR) analysis demonstrated a distinct peak shift in the complex, confirming the successful formation of the CS-AA complex. Subsequently, the water-holding effect through porcine skin was assessed, revealing a notable improvement in moisture retention (weight loss) for the CS-Q complex: 40.6% (1 h), 20.5% (2 h), and 18.7% (4 h) compared to glycerin. Similarly, the CS-R complex demonstrated enhancements of 50.2% (1 h), 37.5% (2 h), and 33% (4 h) compared to glycerin. Furthermore, TEWL improvement efficacy on human skin demonstrated approximately 25% improvement for both the CS-Q complex and CS-R complex, surpassing the modest 12.5% and 18% improvements witnessed with water and glycerin applications, respectively. Finally, employing a corneometer, hydration changes in the skin were monitored over 4 weeks. Although CS alone exhibited nominal alterations, the CS-Q complex and CS-R complex showed a significant increase in moisture levels after 4 weeks of application. CONCLUSION: In this study, polyion complexes were successfully formed between CS, a sulfated GAG, and AA. Comparisons with glycerin, a well-known moisturizing agent, confirmed that the CS-AA complex exhibits superior moisturizing effects in various aspects. These findings suggest that the CS-AA complex is a more effective ingredient than CS or AA alone in terms of efficacy.

Enhancement of Exfoliating Effects through the Novel Cosmetic Ingredient Mandelic acid_Carnitine Ion-Pairing Complex.

PURPOSE: This study aimed to develop a novel exfoliating material with high efficacy and low irritation by synthesizing the Mandelic acid_Carnitine ion pairing complex (M_C complex) and evaluating its exfoliating properties. Additionally, the study assessed the skin improvement effects of the M_C complex through clinical evaluations. METHODS: The M_C complex was synthesized in a 1:1 molar ratio of Mandelic acid and Carnitine. Structural characterization was performed using dynamic light scattering and Fourier-transform infrared spectroscopy. Exfoliating efficacy was evaluated on porcine skin, and clinical assessments were conducted on human subjects to measure various skin improvement parameters. RESULTS: The formation of the M_C complex was confirmed through particle size analysis, zeta-potential measurements, and FT-IR spectroscopy. The M_C complex demonstrated superior exfoliating efficacy compared to Mandelic acid alone, especially at pH 4.5. Clinical evaluations showed significant improvements in blackheads, whiteheads, pore volume, depth, density, count, and affected area, as well as skin texture. No adverse reactions were observed. CONCLUSION: The M_C complex exhibits high exfoliating efficacy and minimal irritation, making it a promising cosmetic ingredient for improving skin health. These findings support its potential as a low-irritation exfoliating material under mildly acidic conditions, contributing to overall skin health enhancement.

Two new secoiridoid glycosides from the rhizomes of Gentiana scabra Bunge.

Two new secoiridoid glycosides, 4'''-O-beta-D-glucopyranosyltrifloroside 1 and 4'''-O-beta-D-glucopyranosylscabraside 2, along with three known secoiridoids were isolated from the rhizomes of Gentiana scabra (Gentianaceae) in our recent phytochemical study. Their chemical structures were determined by spectroscopic data including 1D and 2D NMR spectra. The chemotaxonomic significance of the secoiridoid glycosides is briefly discussed.