Analysis of natural red dyes (cochineal) in textiles of historical importance using HPLC and multivariate data analysis.

A new analytical approach based on high-performance liquid chromatography with diode array detector (HPLC-DAD) and multivariate data analysis was applied and assessed for analyzing the red dye extracted from cochineal insects, used in precious historical textiles. The most widely used method of analysis involves quantification of specific minor compounds (markers), using HPLC-DAD. However, variation in the cochineal markers concentration, use of aggressive dye extraction methods and poor resolution of HPLC chromatograms can compromise the identification of the precise insect species used in the textiles. In this study, a soft extraction method combined with a new dye recovery treatment was developed, capable of yielding HPLC chromatograms with good resolution, for the first time, for historical cochineal-dyed textiles. After principal components analysis (PCA) and mass spectrometry (MS), it was possible to identify the cochineal species used in these textiles, in contrast to the accepted method of analysis. In order to compare both methodologies, 7 cochineal species and 63 historical cochineal insect specimens were analyzed using the two approaches, and then compared with the results for 15 historical textiles in order to assess their applicability to real complex samples. The methodology developed here was shown to provide more accurate and consistent information than the traditional method. Almost all of the historical textiles were dyed with Porphyrophora sp. insects. These results emphasize the importance of adopting the proposed methodology for future research on cochineal (and related red dyes). Mild extraction methods and HPLC-DAD/MS(n) analysis yield distinctive profiles, which, in combination with a PCA reference database, are a powerful tool for identifying red insect dyes.

Characterization of weld (Reseda luteola L.) and spurge flax (Daphne gnidium L.) by high-performance liquid chromatography-diode array detection-mass spectrometry in Arraiolos historical textiles.

The natural dyes, and dye sources, in two seventeenth century Arraiolos carpets from the National Museum of Machado de Castro were analysed by high-performance liquid chromatography with UV-vis diode array detection (HPLC-DAD) and HPLC-mass spectrometry (LC-MS). Weld (Reseda luteola L.), indigo and spurge flax (Daphne gnidium L.) were found to be the dye sources, in agreement with original dyeing recipes collected during the nineteenth century. In order to fully characterize the plant sources, LC-MS conditions were optimized with plant extracts and the chromatographic separation and mass detection were enhanced. Extraction of the dyes, in the Arraiolos carpet samples, was performed using mild conditions that avoid glycoside decomposition. For the blues a dimethylformamide solution proved to be efficient for indigotin recovery. For all the other colours, an improved mild extraction method (with oxalic acid, methanol, acetone and water) was used, enabling to obtain the full dye source fingerprint, namely the flavonoid glycosides in the yellow dyes.

A photochemical study on the blue dye indigo: from solution to ancient Andean textiles.

The degradation of indigo and its water soluble derivative indigo carmine was investigated under light excitation in the presence and absence of molecular oxygen in solution (homogeneous) and gels (heterogeneous) media. Collagen and carboxymethylcellulose (CMC) aqueous gels were chosen to simulate a natural textile environment, wool and cotton, respectively. Isatin was found to be the major degradation product of indigo. In solution, the photodegradation quantum yields (Phi(R)) were in the order of 10(-4), with the exception of aqueous media (Phi(R) = 9 x 10(-6)), and dependent on the irradiation wavelength. In the case of indigo carmine the Phi(R) values were found to suffer a 2-fold increase upon going from water to gels. The results indicate the absence of degradation products involving singlet oxygen and suggest peroxides, or other oxygen based radicals, to have a key role in the degradation of indigo. Finally, the relevance of the simulation is discussed by comparing the main degradation products to those found in the blues of millenary Andean textiles.

Flavylium chromophores as species markers for dragon's blood resins from Dracaena and Daemonorops trees.

A simple and rapid liquid chromatographic method with diode-array UV-vis spectrophotometric detection has been developed for the authentication of dragon's blood resins from Dracaena and Daemonorops trees. Using this method it was discovered that the flavylium chromophores, which contribute to the red colour of these resins, differ among the species and could be used as markers to differentiate among species. A study of parameters, such as time of extraction, proportion of MeOH and pH, was undertaken to optimise the extraction of the flavyliums. This method was then used to make extracts from samples of dragon's blood resin obtained from material of known provenance. From the samples analysed 7,6-dihydroxy-5-methoxyflavylium (dracorhodin), 7,4'-dihydroxy-5-methoxyflavylium (dracoflavylium) and 7,4'-dihydroxyflavylium were selected as species markers for Daemonorops spp., Dracaena draco and Dracaena cinnabari, respectively. The chromatograms from these samples were used to build an HPLC-DAD database. The ability to discriminate among species of dragon's blood using the single marker compounds was compared with a principal components analysis of the chromatograms in the HPLC-DAD database. The results from the HPLC-DAD method based on the presence of these flavylium markers was unequivocal. The HPLC-DAD method was subsequently applied to 37 samples of dragon blood resins from the historical samples in the Economic Botany Collection, Royal Botanic Gardens, Kew. The method identified anomalies in how samples in this collection had been labelled. It is clear that the method can be used to evaluate the provenance of samples used in different areas of cultural heritage. It also could be used to monitor the trade of endangered species of dragon's blood and the species being used in complex formulations of traditional Chinese medicine.

A study in mauve: unveiling Perkin's dye in historic samples.

The analysis of different historic mauve samples--mauve salts and dyed textiles--was undertaken to establish the exact nature of the iconic dye produced by W. H. Perkin in the nineteenth century. Fourteen samples from important museum collections were analyzed, and it was determined that, in contrast to the general wisdom that mauveine consists of C(26) and C(27) structures, Perkin's mauveine is a complex mixture of at least thirteen methyl derivatives (C(24) to C(28)) with a 7-amino-5-phenyl-3-(phenylamino)phenazin-5-ium core. A fingerprint was established in which mauveines A or B were dominant, and in which mauveines B2 and C(25) were found to be important tracers to probe the original synthesis. Counterion analysis showed that all the mauve salts should be dated after 1862. Perkin's original recipe could be identified in three textile samples, and in these cases, mauveines A and C(25) were found to be the major chromophores. These are now shown to be the samples containing the "original mauve".