Your browser doesn't support javascript.
loading
Show: 20 | 50 | 100
Results 1 - 20 de 56
Filter
1.
J Biophotonics ; : e202400107, 2024 Jun 27.
Article in English | MEDLINE | ID: mdl-38937980

ABSTRACT

The skin surface lipids (SSLs) film, composed of sebum and keratinocyte membrane lipids, is crucial to the barrier function of the stratum corneum (SC). The first part of this study investigated the impact of solar radiation on the SC based on a novel hydration and dehydration approach using Raman spectroscopy. The SSLs were found to absorb solar light, and thus participate to the protection of the skin surface. However, the protective function of the SSLs may be limited and is dependent to the heterogenous distribution of SSLs over the body surface. To ensure comprehensive protection, synergistic measures such as the application of solar filters are necessary. In this second part of the study, we have evaluated the limits of the protection capacity of SSLs and explored the protective action of a solar filters on both SSLs composition and the water hydration and dehydration kinetics in the SC.

2.
Skin Res Technol ; 30(4): e13708, 2024 Apr.
Article in English | MEDLINE | ID: mdl-38634247

ABSTRACT

BACKGROUND: Reconstructed epidermis models, obtained from 3D keratinocytes culture, have gained significant prominence as prototypes for safety and efficacy testing in skin research. To effectively evaluate these models, it is essential to perform molecular and functional characterization. The skin's barrier function is one of the essential aspects of the epidermis that needs to be assessed. A noninvasive method is thus required for the evaluation of the skin barrier in these models. With this perspective, the aim of this feasibility study is to apply the speckle technique for the assessment of the skin barrier in the Reconstructed Human Epidermis (RHE). MATERIALS AND METHODS: Speckle analysis as well as Raman microspectroscopy were performed on RHE samples at two maturation days, D17 and D20. RESULTS: Between D17 and D20, our study showed an increase in various Raman parameters, including stratum corneum percentage, lateral lipid packing, lipid-to-protein ratio, and protein secondary structure. Furthermore, the degree of light polarization and the speckle grain size also increased over this period. CONCLUSION: The speckle technique proved to be effective for evaluating the skin barrier in Reconstructed Human Epidermis (RHE) models. Comparison with Raman validates this approach and provides comprehensive molecular and functional characterization of reconstructive skin models.


Subject(s)
Epidermis , Skin , Humans , Epidermis/metabolism , Skin/chemistry , Keratinocytes , Proteins/metabolism , Lipids/analysis
3.
Int J Pharm ; 647: 123488, 2023 Nov 25.
Article in English | MEDLINE | ID: mdl-37805151

ABSTRACT

In the development and optimization of dermatological products, In Vitro Permeation Testing (IVPT) is pivotal for controlled study of skin penetration. To enhance standardization and replicate human skin properties reconstructed human skin and synthetic membranes are explored as alternatives. Strat-M® is a membrane designed to mimic the multi-layered structure of human skin for IVPT. For instance, in Strat-M®, the steady-state fluxes (JSS) of resorcinol in formulations free of permeation enhancers were found to be 41 ± 5 µg/cm2·h for the aqueous solution, 42 ± 6 µg/cm2·h for the hydrogel, and 40 ± 6 µg/cm2·h for the oil-in-water emulsion. These results were closer to excised human skin (5 ± 3, 9 ± 2, 13 ± 6 µg/cm2·h) and surpassed the performance of EpiSkin® RHE (138 ± 5, 142 ± 6, and 162 ± 11 µg/cm2·h). While mass spectrometry and Raman microscopy demonstrated the qualitative molecular similarity of EpiSkin® RHE to human skin, it was the porous and hydrophobic polymer nature of Strat-M® that more faithfully reproduced the skin's diffusion-limiting barrier. Further validation through similarity factor analysis (∼80-85%) underscored Strat-M®'s significance as a reliable substitute for human skin, offering a promising approach to enhance realism and reproducibility in dermatological product development.


Subject(s)
Skin Absorption , Skin Irritancy Tests , Humans , Reproducibility of Results , Membranes, Artificial , Skin/metabolism
4.
J Biophotonics ; 16(8): e202300055, 2023 08.
Article in English | MEDLINE | ID: mdl-37029650

ABSTRACT

This study used Raman spectroscopy to develop a new approach to evaluate the effects of solar radiation on the stratum corneum (SC). The method measures the SC's hydration and dehydration kinetics by calculating the vOH/vCH ratio to monitor the relative water content during the drying process. The study also investigated the role of skin surface lipids (SSLs) in protecting the SC from solar radiation. The SSLs film is a complex mixture of free fatty acids, triglycerides, wax esters, squalene, free and esterified cholesterols, that play a crucial role in the skin's barrier function. The results showed that solar radiation alters the water content and balance within the SC, and SSLs provide protection by acting as an optical filter by absorbing some of the energy of the solar light. This is confirmed by high temperature gas chromatography coupled to mass spectrometry analyses by revealing a decrease in specific lipids after irradiating the SSLs .


Subject(s)
Epidermis , Skin , Triglycerides , Water , Squalene/analysis , Squalene/pharmacology
5.
Talanta ; 256: 124314, 2023 May 01.
Article in English | MEDLINE | ID: mdl-36753884

ABSTRACT

Atherosclerosis - a cardiovascular disease and the primary cause of morbidity and mortality in industrialized countries - is linked to the existence of atherosclerotic plaques characterized by cholesterol-laden macrophages called foam cells. In these cells, cholesterol esters associated with triglycerides form lipid droplets (LD). The only way to remove this excess cholesterol is to promote free cholesterol efflux from macrophages to specific acceptors. It has been shown recently that eicosapentaenoic acid (EPA) reduces efflux on cholesterol-loaded THP-1 macrophages in vitro due to decreased cholesterol esters hydrolysis. These in vitro observations could reflect EPA's difficulty in facilitating in vivo the antiatherogenic process of cholesterol efflux within advanced atherosclerotic plaques. This work aims to study in vitro the impact of EPA on cholesterol esters hydrolysis in the LD of human THP-1 macrophages using vibrational Raman microspectroscopy. For this, we used deuterated EPA and recorded spectral images at the cell scale after different hydrolysis times. RESULTS: showed that EPA is involved in forming triglycerides and phospholipids of LD. Hydrolysis kinetics slowed down after 24 h, triglycerides increased, and the intensity of the characteristic bands linked to deuteration decreased. The size of LD without hydrolysis (H0) is higher than that after 24 h (H1) or 48 h (H2) of hydrolysis. The size decrease is sharper when going from H0 to H1 than from H1 to H2. Principal component analysis illustrated data' projection according to the cellular compartment, the hydrolysis time, and the supplementation of the medium.


Subject(s)
Cholesterol Esters , Plaque, Atherosclerotic , Humans , Eicosapentaenoic Acid/pharmacology , Hydrolysis , Lipid Droplets , Macrophages , Cholesterol , Triglycerides
6.
Biochim Biophys Acta Biomembr ; 1865(1): 184077, 2023 01 01.
Article in English | MEDLINE | ID: mdl-36302493

ABSTRACT

In the present work, two photosensitizing drugs, Temoporfin and Verteporfin have been studied. Both have regular approval in Europe, Temoporfin for the treatment of head and neck cancers and Verteporfin for the treatment of age-related macular degeneration (AMD). The treatment modality, known as "Photodynamic Therapy" (PDT), involves drug activation with visible light in the presence of oxygen and production of reactive oxygen species (ROS) to destroy the pathological tissues. Both drugs are inactive in the absence of light, presenting only few side effects. The incorporation of the two drugs into a SOPC bilayer -used as a model membrane- was studied by ATR-FTIR. An original approach was applied, involving lyotropic transitions and a very slow dehydration rate of the sample. In low water content and dry film, Temoporfin highly affects stretching vibrations of SOPC chains and polar groups, showing that Temoporfin is inserted into the bilayer in both apolar and polar regions. In fully hydrated layers, Temoporfin - SOPC interactions still take place but only impact Temoporfin vibration bands. Verteporfin shows smaller effect on both chain and polar groups' vibrations of SOPC, with the exception of choline group, suggesting that Verteporfin is inserted into the bilayer to a lesser extent and remains at the bilayer polar interface. These results can be used to better understand drugs behavior in biological media.


Subject(s)
Photochemotherapy , Porphyrins , Photosensitizing Agents , Verteporfin , Porphyrins/adverse effects , Photochemotherapy/methods
7.
J Biophotonics ; 16(1): e202200201, 2023 01.
Article in English | MEDLINE | ID: mdl-36153668

ABSTRACT

The epidermal protective functions are closely associated with skin hydration homeostasis. The understanding of different states of water binding is a rising concept in assessing topically applied formulations and their interaction within the stratum corneum (SC). In addition to global water content, primary bound water, partially bound water, and unbound water and barrier-related lipid lateral packing and protein secondary structure can be measured by Raman spectroscopy. This study aimed to establish an in vitro SC model to evaluate differences in the efficacy of a natural sugar-derived complex in combination with glycerol and a botanical extract in modulating SC water binding and structural proteins and barrier lipids. These compounds were selected due to their water-binding and soothing properties. The SC water profiles were assessed at the surface and in 8 µm SC depth. After a 12-hour hyperhydration and subsequent product incubation the measurements were performed during a 6 hours desiccation phase. The maximal water caption and the time until reaching a steady state are measured as well as water retention and resistance against water loss. Global water content, partially bound, and unbound water, as well as lipid and protein structures were assessed with confocal Raman microspectroscopy. Both the natural sugar-derived mixture and more pronounced, the same mixture with additional glycerol increased all three water-binding parameters at the surface and in 8 µm SC depth at the beginning and during the desiccation phase. Further addition of botanical extract did not result in an additional increase of the water-binding. All three formulations showed an increase in the lipid lateral packing values prevented the protein alteration as measured by ß-sheets signal compared to blank. The present model is suited for screening studies comparing the specific effects of different compounds on hydration states. The natural sugar-derived mixture Aquaxyl showed evidence for an improvement of all SC hydration states, lipid and protein structure which was further enhanced by the addition of glycerol 5%. This improvement was evidenced at the surface and within the SC for all hydration-related parameters, and the lipid as well the protein structures. The addition of botanical extract phytoessence blue daisy did not show further improvement.


Subject(s)
Glycerol , Water , Water/metabolism , Glycerol/pharmacology , Glycerol/metabolism , Epidermis/metabolism , Skin/metabolism , Spectrum Analysis, Raman/methods , Proteins/analysis , Lipids/analysis , Sugars/analysis , Sugars/metabolism , Sugars/pharmacology
8.
Anal Sci Adv ; 4(9-10): 293-301, 2023 Oct.
Article in English | MEDLINE | ID: mdl-38715594

ABSTRACT

Triglycerides (TGs) are one of the main components of the glycerolipid family. Their main task in cells is to store excess fatty acids. TG energy storage is mainly concentrated in adipocytes. TGs and free fatty acids constitute the majority (57.5%) of the skin surface lipids (SSLs). TGs are essential for the formation of the skin water barrier. This work is the second part of a global study that aims to evaluate the effect of solar radiations on SSLs using vibrational spectroscopy. In the first part of this work, a stepwise characterization of free fatty acids was performed, and different spectral descriptors were used to follow the different structural modifications during the photo-oxidation process, that is hydrogen abstraction, formation of hydroperoxides and peroxyl radicals as primary oxidation products and the formation of aldehydes, ketones, alcohol as secondary products. In this second part, the photo-oxidation of TGs was evaluated using Raman spectroscopy. A decrease in the CH2/CH3 stretching bands ratio that confirmed the hydrogen abstraction, an increase in the 1165/1740 cm-1 ((δ(OH) and υ(C-O))/ν(C=O) (ester)) ratio indicated the formation of secondary oxidation products such as hydroperoxides. And finally, an increase in the 1725/1740 cm-1 (υ(C=O) (ald.)/υ(C=O) (ester)) ratio and the trans ν(C=C)/cis ν(C=C) ratio highlighted the formation of aldehydes, alcohols, ketone, trans secondary products and others.

9.
Eur J Dermatol ; 32(3): 338-346, 2022 05 01.
Article in English | MEDLINE | ID: mdl-36065532

ABSTRACT

Background: The stratum corneum (SC) plays an important role in skin barrier function. It acts as a protective barrier against water loss, eliminates foreign substances and micro-organisms and acts against harmful effects of UVR. Objectives: Our aim was to study the impact of suberythemal doses of UVA and UVB exposure on the molecular structure, organization and barrier function of the SC by following different Raman descriptors. Materials & Methods: Twenty female volunteers, aged 20-30 years, with healthy skin were enrolled. Doses of 95 mJ/cm² UVA and 15 mJ/cm² UVB were applied to volunteers' forearms. In vivo Raman measurements were performed at irradiated and control regions. Results: The impact of UVA and UVB irradiation was observed following several Raman descriptors, i.e. the ratio of vasymCH2/vsymCH2 (2885 cm-1/2850 cm-1) corresponding to the organizational order of the lipid bilayer. Water content and mobility descriptors were obtained by calculating vOH/vCH ratio. Finally, protein secondary structure was evaluated based on the 1670 cm-1/1650 cm-1 ratio related to ß sheets and α helices, respectively. Conclusion: UVA induced a loosening of the lateral packing of lipids immediately after irradiation. In contrast, delayed impact caused a tightening of the lipid barrier, an increase in water content -mainly in the unbound water fraction and a higher relative amount of ß sheets in SC proteins. Overall, these observations may explain the thickening of the SC observed in previous studies. A UVB dose of 15 mJ/cm² was apparently below the threshold necessary to induce significant changes despite the trends observed in this study.


Subject(s)
Epidermis , Spectrum Analysis, Raman , Female , Humans , Skin , Ultraviolet Rays/adverse effects , Water
10.
Molecules ; 27(9)2022 Apr 29.
Article in English | MEDLINE | ID: mdl-35566190

ABSTRACT

Confocal Raman microscopy (CRM) has become a versatile technique that can be applied routinely to monitor skin penetration of active molecules. In the present study, CRM coupled to multivariate analysis (namely PLSR-partial least squares regression) is used for the quantitative measurement of an active ingredient (AI) applied to isolated (ex vivo) human stratum corneum (SC), using systematically varied doses of resorcinol, as model compound, and the performance is quantified according to key figures of merit defined by regulatory bodies (ICH, FDA, and EMA). A methodology is thus demonstrated to establish the limit of detection (LOD), precision, accuracy, sensitivity (SEN), and selectivity (SEL) of the technique, and the performance according to these key figures of merit is compared to that of similar established methodologies, based on studies available in literature. First, principal components analysis (PCA) was used to examine the variability within the spectral data set collected. Second, ratios calculated from the area under the curve (AUC) of characteristic resorcinol and proteins/lipids bands (1400-1500 cm-1) were used to perform linear regression analysis of the Raman spectra. Third, cross-validated PLSR analysis was applied to perform quantitative analysis in the fingerprint region. The AUC results show clearly that the intensities of Raman features in the spectra collected are linearly correlated to resorcinol concentrations in the SC (R2 = 0.999) despite a heterogeneity in the distribution of the active molecule in the samples. The Root Mean Square Error of Cross-Validation (RMSECV) (0.017 mg resorcinol/mg SC), The Root Mean Square of Prediction (RMSEP) (0.015 mg resorcinol/mg SC), and R2 (0.971) demonstrate the reliability of the linear regression constructed, enabling accurate quantification of resorcinol. Furthermore, the results have enabled the determination, for the first time, of numerical criteria to estimate analytical performances of CRM, including LOD, precision using bias corrected mean square error prediction (BCMSEP), sensitivity, and selectivity, for quantification of the performance of the analytical technique. This is one step further towards demonstrating that Raman spectroscopy complies with international guidelines and to establishing the technique as a reference and approved tool for permeation studies.


Subject(s)
Epidermis , Spectrum Analysis, Raman , Humans , Least-Squares Analysis , Reproducibility of Results , Resorcinols , Spectrum Analysis, Raman/methods
11.
Anal Bioanal Chem ; 414(12): 3675-3685, 2022 May.
Article in English | MEDLINE | ID: mdl-35314876

ABSTRACT

The presence of a new ceramide subclass, the 1-O-acyl omega-linoleoyloxy ceramides [1-O-E (EO) Cer], has been previously highlighted in reconstructed human epidermis (RHE). These ceramides are double esterified on two positions. The first is the 1-O position of the sphingoid base moiety with a long to very long chain of acyl residues (1-O-E), and the second is the position of the ω-hydroxyl group of the fatty acid moiety with linoleic acid (EO). Considering its chemical structure and hydrophobicity, this subclass can contribute to the skin barrier. Thus, it is important to determine whether this subclass is also present in native human stratum corneum (SC). This work compares ceramide structures of this novel subclass between RHE (in vitro) and two sources of human SC (in vivo and ex vivo) using normal-phase high-performance liquid chromatography coupled to high-resolution mass spectrometry (NP-HPLC/HR-MSn). The results confirm the presence of this double esterified ceramide subclass [1-O-E (EO) Cer] in human SC. The molecular profile obtained from the RHE was very close to that found in the human SC (in vivo and ex vivo). In addition, thanks to the targeted MS2/MS3 analysis, a new ceramide subclass was discovered and characterized in the three studied samples. We propose to name it [A-1-O-E (EO) Cer] because in these ceramides species, the fatty acid-esterified with the sphingoid base on the 1-O position-is hydroxylated on the α position. These results highlight the potential of both the analytical method and the characterization approach employed in this study.


Subject(s)
Ceramides , Skin , Ceramides/analysis , Chromatography, High Pressure Liquid/methods , Epidermis/chemistry , Fatty Acids/analysis , Humans , Skin/chemistry
12.
Anal Bioanal Chem ; 414(2): 1163-1176, 2022 Jan.
Article in English | MEDLINE | ID: mdl-34718838

ABSTRACT

Surface-enhanced Raman spectroscopy (SERS) is a powerful analytical technique capable of increasing the Raman signal of an analyte using specific nanostructures. The close contact between those nanostructures, usually a suspension of nanoparticles, and the molecule of interest produces an important exaltation of the intensity of the Raman signal. Even if the exaltation leads to an improvement of Raman spectroscopy sensitivity, the complexity of the SERS signal and the numbers of parameters to be controlled allow the use of SERS for detection rather than quantification. The aim of this study was to develop a robust discriminative and quantitative analysis in accordance with pharmaceutical standards. In this present work, we develop a discriminative and quantitative analysis based on the previous optimized parameters obtained by the design of experiments fixed for norepinephrine (NOR) and extended to epinephrine (EPI) which are two neurotransmitters with very similar structures. Studying the short evolution of the Raman signal intensity over time coupled with chemometric tools allowed the identification of outliers and their removal from the data set. The discriminant analysis showed an excellent separation of EPI and NOR. The comparative analysis of the data showed the superiority of the multivariate analysis after logarithmic transformation. The quantitative analysis allowed the development of robust quantification models from several gold nanoparticle batches with limits of quantification of 32 µg/mL for NOR and below 20 µg/mL for EPI even though no Raman signal is observable for such concentrations. This study improves SERS analysis over ultrasensitive detection for discrimination and quantification using a handheld Raman spectrometer.


Subject(s)
Epinephrine/analysis , Gold/chemistry , Metal Nanoparticles/chemistry , Norepinephrine/analysis , Spectrum Analysis, Raman/methods
13.
Spectrochim Acta A Mol Biomol Spectrosc ; 268: 120628, 2022 Mar 05.
Article in English | MEDLINE | ID: mdl-34810096

ABSTRACT

Surface Enhanced Raman Scattering (SERS) spectroscopy is a rapid and innovative analysis technique involving metallic nanoparticles (NPs). The interaction between NPs and norepinephrine gives an exaltation of the Raman signal under certain experimental conditions. The control of the signal exaltation, crucial for sensitive analyses, remains one of the main limitations of this technique. The aim of this work is to optimize the exaltation conditions for an optimal SERS signal at two concentrations of norepinephrine (NOR) and spherical gold NPs in suspension. This first work will fix the optimal experimental conditions essential for the development of robust discriminant and quantitative analysis of catecholamine. Two complete 3-factors 3-levels experiment designs were performed at 20 µg.mL-1 and 100 µg.mL-1 norepinephrine concentrations, each experiment being repeated 3 times. The optimization factors were the process of synthesis (variation of the quantity of gold and citrate used for the three synthesis SA, SB and SC) and HCl (0.3 M, 0.5 M, 0.7 M) as well as the volume ratio of NPs and norepinephrine (0.5, 2, 3.5) for SERS acquisition. Spectral acquisitions were performed with a handheld Raman spectrometer with an excitation source at 785 nm. For each sample, 31 acquisitions were realized during 3 s every 8 s. The optimization parameter was the intensity of the characteristic band of norepinephrine at 1280 cm-1. A total of 5,042 spectra were acquired and the pre-treatment selected for all spectra was asymmetric least square combined to a smoothing of Savistsky Golay (ALS - SG). The optimal contact time between norepinephrine and NPs depends on the experimental conditions and was determined for each experiment according to the mean intensity between the three replicates. After interpretation of the experimental designs, the optimal conditions retained were the quantity of gold corresponding to SA and the HCl concentration 0.7 M for the two concentrations of norepinephrine. Indeed, the optimal volume ratio depend on the NOR concentration.


Subject(s)
Gold , Metal Nanoparticles , Spectrum Analysis, Raman , Suspensions
14.
Eur J Dermatol ; 31(3): 335-341, 2021 Jun 01.
Article in English | MEDLINE | ID: mdl-34309519

ABSTRACT

There exist different methods for the determination of sun protection factor (SPF) values for sunscreens. We aimed to develop a new in vitro method using EBT3 Gafchromic® film as a substrate. The colour of EBT3 Gafchromic® film changes when exposed to UV light. Films were covered by sunscreen preparations of different SPF values ranging from 0 to 50. Uncovered and covered films were exposed to different solar light energies and their colour change was compared. Absorbance spectra of films was measured at 633 nm using a UV-VIS spectrophotometer apparatus. The colour of the film darkens when ultraviolet energy increases, which means that absorbance increases with exposure time. However, when films are covered by sunscreens, the colour change is less visible and the absorbance significantly decreases with increasing SPF value. There is a linear correlation between the absorbance of EBT3 Gafchromic® film and SPF value of sunscreens covering the film. Statistical analysis demonstrated that the SPF value of a sunscreen can be predicted using EBT3 Gafchromic® film as a substrate. This is the first report of an in vitro method based on colour change of a substrate which takes into consideration exposure time, and relates more closely to conditions of real-life. Based on these parameters, this is a reliable in vitro method for SPF testing.


Subject(s)
Radiometry/methods , Sun Protection Factor/methods , Sunscreening Agents , Humans , In Vitro Techniques , Models, Biological , Radiation Dosage , X-Ray Film
15.
Analyst ; 146(14): 4649-4658, 2021 Jul 21.
Article in English | MEDLINE | ID: mdl-34180466

ABSTRACT

Reconstructed human epidermis models are used as epidermis alternatives in skin research studies. It is necessary to provide molecular and functional characterization in order to assess these models. Our aim is to establish a link between the barrier function and the structure and composition of the stratum corneum using several complementary techniques. The following three studies were performed on reconstructed human epidermis during the keratinocyte differentiation process: (i) caffeine percutaneous penetration kinetics, (ii) epidermis thickness measurement, stratum corneum formation and lipid organization by Raman microspectroscopy and (iii) lipid composition evolution by liquid chromatography coupled to high-resolution mass spectrometry. The results demonstrated that the caffeine penetration decreased along the differentiation process. Raman in-depth images demonstrated an increase in stratum corneum and RHE thickness accompanied by the evolution of lipid organization. Lipid analysis showed an increase of the ceramide amount and an inverse relationship between ceramide and its precursor levels during the differentiation process. Different behaviors between several ceramide subclasses are highlighted and they relied on the corresponding differentiation stages. The generation of the most important ceramides for the barrier function is closely followed. A period shift between lipid generation and their organization was found. Our analytical data allowed identifying the following 3 groups of maturation days: before day 15, between days 15 and 19, and after day 19. The chemical and physiological states of the barrier function for each group are described thanks to a multimodal approach.


Subject(s)
Ceramides , Epidermis , Chromatography, Liquid , Humans , Mass Spectrometry , Skin
16.
J Biophotonics ; 14(9): e202100107, 2021 09.
Article in English | MEDLINE | ID: mdl-34105894

ABSTRACT

Skin aging is a multifactorial phenomenon that involves alterations at the molecular, cellular and tissue levels. Our aim was to carry out a multiparametric biophysical and Raman characterization of skin barrier between individuals of different age groups (<24 and >70 years old). Our results showed a significant decrease of lipids to proteins ratio overall the thickness of the stratum corneum and higher lateral packing in the outer part of the SC for elderly. This can explain the decrease in trans epidermal water loss measured values rather than only SC thickening. Both age groups showed similar water content at SC surface while elderly presented higher water content in deep SC and viable epidermis. Mechanical measurements showed a decrease in the elasticity and an increase in the fatigability with age and were correlated with partially bound water. Highest correlation and anti-correlation values were observed for the deepest part of the SC and the viable epidermis.


Subject(s)
Epidermis , Spectrum Analysis, Raman , Aged , Biophysics , Humans , Lipids , Microscopy, Confocal , Skin
17.
Analyst ; 146(9): 2965-2973, 2021 May 04.
Article in English | MEDLINE | ID: mdl-33949413

ABSTRACT

From the basal layer until the stratum corneum, lipid and protein biomarkers associated with morphological changes denote keratinocyte differentiation and characterize each epidermis layer. Herein, we followed keratinocyte differentiation in the early stages using HaCaT cells over a period of two weeks by two complementary analytical techniques: Raman microspectroscopy and high-performance liquid chromatography coupled with high resolution mass spectrometry. A high concentration of calcium in the medium induced HaCaT cell differentiation in vitro. The results from both techniques underlined the keratinocyte passage from the granular layer (day 9) to the stratum corneum layer (day 13). After 13 days of differentiation, we observed a strong increase in the lipid content, decrease in proteins, decrease in DNA, and a decrease in glucosylceramides/ceramides and sphingomyelins/ceramides ratios.


Subject(s)
Epidermis , Spectrum Analysis, Raman , Cell Differentiation , Ceramides , Keratinocytes
18.
Exp Dermatol ; 30(9): 1352-1357, 2021 09.
Article in English | MEDLINE | ID: mdl-33811391

ABSTRACT

The stratum corneum (SC) is key in the maintenance of the biomechanical barrier and hydration of skin. Our previous investigations showed beneficial effects of a combination of emollients on water capture and retention and protein and lipid organization, all of which are linked to dryness and dry skin damage. Here, we show how a formulation containing an emollient combination ("Trio") and its basal formulation (placebo) impacted the descriptors of SC hydration in SC layers. Only the Trio formulation-not its placebo formulation-modified SC biomechanical drying stress behaviour and imparted a high capacity to protect it from dehydration. This was in accordance with findings at the molecular level using Raman analyses and at the structural level using cryo-scanning electron microscopy (SEM). After topical application, only the Trio formulation profoundly increased lateral packing of lipids and their compactness. Cryo-SEM showed that, unlike the placebo formulation, the Trio formulation prevented the water loss when applied before the dehydration process. In conclusion, these studies demonstrate that stresses in the SC due to dehydration can be alleviated using a formulation containing emollients that interact with the SC lipid components.


Subject(s)
Emollients/pharmacology , Lipids/chemistry , Skin Diseases/drug therapy , Water/metabolism , Administration, Cutaneous , Humans , Spectrum Analysis, Raman
19.
J Biophotonics ; 13(11): e202000136, 2020 11.
Article in English | MEDLINE | ID: mdl-32678939

ABSTRACT

Confocal Raman mapping (CRM) is a powerful, label free, non-destructive tool, enabling molecular characterization of human skin with applications in the dermo-cosmetic field. Coupling CRM to multivariate analysis can be used to monitor the penetration and permeation of active cosmetic ingredients (ACI) after topical application. It is presently illustrated how multivariate curve resolution alternating least squares (MCR-ALS) can be applied to detect and semi-quantitatively describe the diffusion profile of Delipidol, a commercially available slimming ACI, from Raman spectral maps. Although the analysis outcome can be critically dependent on the a priori selection of the number of regression components, it is demonstrated that profiling of the kinetics of diffusion into the skin can be established with or without additionnal spectral equality constraints in the multivariate analysis, with similar results. Ultimately, MCR-ALS, applied without spectral equality contraints, specifically identifies the ACI as one of main spectral components enabling to investigate its distribution and penetration into the stratum corneum and underlying epidermis layers.


Subject(s)
Skin , Spectrum Analysis, Raman , Epidermis , Humans , Least-Squares Analysis , Multivariate Analysis
20.
Talanta ; 217: 121040, 2020 Sep 01.
Article in English | MEDLINE | ID: mdl-32498908

ABSTRACT

Antineoplastic agents are, for most of them, highly toxic drugs prepared at hospital following individualized prescription. To protect patients and healthcare workers, it is important to develop analytical tools able to identify and quantify such drugs on a wide concentration range. In this context, surface enhanced Raman spectroscopy (SERS) has been tested as a specific and sensitive technique. Despite the standardization of the nanoparticle synthesis, a polydispersity of nanoparticles in the suspension and a lack of reproducibility persist. This study focuses on the development of a new mathematical approach to deal with this nanoparticle polydispersity and its consequences on SERS signal variability through the feasibility of 5-fluorouracil (5FU) quantification using silver nanoparticles (AgNPs) and a handled Raman spectrophotometer. Variability has been maximized by synthetizing six different batches of AgNPs for an average size of 24.9 nm determined by transmission electron microscopy, with residual standard deviation of 17.0%. Regarding low performances of the standard multivariate data processing, an alternative approach based on the nearest neighbors were developed to quantify 5FU. By this approach, the predictive performance of the 5FU concentration was significantly improved. The mean absolute relative error (MARE) decreased from 16.8% with the traditional approach based on PLS regression to 6.30% with the nearest neighbors approach (p-value < 0.001). This study highlights the importance of developing mathematics adapted to SERS analysis which could be a step to overcome the spectral variability in SERS and thus participate in the development of this technique as an analytical tool in quality control to quantify molecules with good performances, particularly in the pharmaceutical field.


Subject(s)
Antineoplastic Agents/analysis , Fluorouracil/analysis , Metal Nanoparticles/chemistry , Silver/chemistry , Humans , Least-Squares Analysis , Nonlinear Dynamics , Particle Size , Spectrum Analysis, Raman , Surface Properties
SELECTION OF CITATIONS
SEARCH DETAIL
...