Ionic composition of Shotokuseki extract alters cell differentiation and lipid metabolism in three-dimensional cultured human epidermis.

Corneocytes and intercellular lipids form the stratum corneum. The content and composition of intercellular lipids in the stratum corneum significantly affect skin barrier function. The purpose of this study was to demonstrate the effect of Shotokuseki extract (SE) on intercellular lipid production and metabolism in human three-dimensional cultured human epidermis. SE or ion mixtures containing five common ions were applied to three-dimensional cultured human epidermis for 2-8 days for each assay. The mRNA expression levels of epidermal differentiation markers and lipid metabolism genes were quantified by real-time PCR. After extraction of lipids from the epidermis, ceramide, sphingosine, free fatty acids, and cholesterol were quantified by LC-MS/MS, GC-MS, or HPLC. The results showed that the application of SE increased the gene expression levels of epidermal differentiation markers keratin10 and transglutaminase. Elongation of very long-chain fatty acids protein 3, serine palmitoyl transferase, ceramide synthase 3, and acid ceramidase mRNA expression levels increased and fatty acid synthase mRNA expression decreased. The content of each lipid, [EOS] ceramide decreased and total sphingosine content increased on day 4. On day 8 of application, ceramide [NDS], [NP], and [EODS] increased and total free fatty acid content decreased. These results show that SE alters the lipid composition of the epidermis, increasing ceramides and decreasing free fatty acids in the epidermis. The composition of the ions in the SE may be responsible for the changes in lipid composition. These behaviors were different from those observed when the ion mixture was applied. Supplementary Information: The online version contains supplementary material available at 10.1007/s10616-024-00616-3.

Non-invasive Microneedle Application Increases Ceramide and Natural Moisturizing Factors in a Reconstructed Human Skin Model.

Recently, microneedling as a cosmetic product has attracted attention as one way to improve skin barrier function and moisturizing function to reduce wrinkle formation. However, some cases of erythema and edema have been reported as side effects. In order to develop safer microneedle cosmetics, we investigated whether microneedles can improve skin barrier function and moisturizing function even when applied in a non-invasive manner that does not penetrate the stratum corneum. We established the condition of non-penetrating microneedle application on reconstructed human full-thickness skin models and examined the effect on the skin models when microneedles were applied under this condition. Microneedle application increased the gene expression of serine palmitoyltransferase long chain base subunit (SPTLC) 3, filaggrin, and transglutaminase 1. The amount of ceramide produced by SPTLC was also increased by microneedle application. Gene expression of filaggrin-degrading enzymes and the amount of free amino acids, a product of filaggrin degradation, were also increased by microneedling. These results suggest that non-invasive microneedle application can improve skin barrier function and moisturizing function by increasing the amount of ceramide and natural moisturizing factors.

Sphingomyelin reduces melanogenesis in murine B16 melanoma cells through indirect suppression of tyrosinase.

Growing consumer interest in skin whitening has led to intensive investigations of whitening methods. In this study, we evaluated the effect of sphingomyelin, a component of cell membranes, on melanin production. B16 mouse melanoma cells were treated with lauroyl-sphingomyelin (SM) or its metabolite lauroyl-ceramide (CER) and measured for cell viability, melanin content, and direct and indirect tyrosinase activity. Expression of melanin synthesis-related genes encoding tyrosinase (Tyr), tyrosinase-related proteins (Trp1 and Trp2), and microphthalmia-associated transcription factor (Mitf) were quantified by real-time PCR, and SM content in cells was measured by fluorescence high-performance liquid chromatography. SM treatment decreased melanin content in a concentration-dependent manner, without significantly altering the number of viable cells. By contrast, treatment with CER at the same concentrations did not decrease melanin content. SM inhibited the activity of intracellular tyrosinase, but not mushroom-derived tyrosinase. Gene expression levels of Tyr and Mitf were significantly reduced by treatment with SM, while those of Trp2 and Mitf were significantly reduced by CER. Fluorescence-labeled SM was converted to fluorescence-labeled CER in cells over time. In conclusion, CER was found to inhibit melanogenesis without inhibiting tyrosinase activity, suggesting that SM is more water soluble than CER, and is more effectively taken up into cells.

2-kDa hyaluronan ameliorates human facial wrinkles through increased dermal collagen density related to promotion of collagen remodeling.

BACKGROUND/AIMS: Hyaluronan (HA) oligosaccharides are involved in several biological processes, primarily collagen remodeling and wound healing. Collagen remodeling is retarded in aging skin and causes wrinkles. The aim of this study was to evaluate the effect of 2-kDa HA oligosaccharides (HA2k) on wrinkles by permeation through the stratum corneum and promotion of collagen remodeling. METHODS: A 3D skin model and excised human skin were used to evaluate the permeation of fluorescein-labeled HA2k. The effect of HA2k on collagen metabolism was evaluated by measuring the protein level of type 1 pro-collagen (COL1A1) and matrix metalloproteinase-1 (MMP-1) in the 3D skin model. 0.1% HA2k solution and vehicle control was applied to the human forearm for 8 weeks to evaluate dermal collagen density. To evaluate the effect of HA2k on depth of facial wrinkles, a randomized controlled trial was conducted with 0.1% HA2k lotion and vehicle lotion for 8 weeks. RESULTS: HA2k was confirmed to permeate through the stratum corneum by fluorescent microscopy. Both COL1A1 and MMP-1 were upregulated by HA2k application in a 3D skin model culture. The collagen density was higher for the HA2k-treated forearm than for the vehicle control-treated forearm after 4 weeks. The maximum wrinkle depths in the nasolabial fold and crow's feet area were significantly shallower in the HA2k lotion group than in the control group. CONCLUSION: HA2k permeated the stratum corneum, activated collagen synthesis and degradation simultaneously, and ameliorated wrinkles.

Modulation of function and structure of stratum corneum in sphingomyelin synthase 2-deficient mice.

Sphingomyelin synthase (SMS) synthesizes sphingomyelin (SM) from ceramide (Cer), a precursor of Cer. The effects of SMS deficiency on stratum corneum (SC) barrier function and SC lamellar structure are unknown. In this report, permeation of hydrophilic and lipophilic compounds through full-thickness skin or stripped skin of SMS2-knockout (KO) and wild-type (WT) mice was examined. Furthermore, small-angle and wide-angle X-ray scattering (SAXS and WAXS) measurements of the SC were performed as a function of temperature to analyze the lamellar structure and hydrocarbon chain packing, where a SC sample was changed from 10 °C to 120 °C at 2 °C/min and the X-ray diffraction profile in the small-angle region and the wide-angle region was observed. Skin permeability of the hydrophilic compound increased significantly for SMS2-KO mice when compared with that of WT mice. In contrast, no difference was observed in the penetration of lipophilic compounds in the skin of both SMS2-KO and WT mice. In SC of SMS2-KO mice, two sharp SAXS peaks were observed due to the lamellar structure with a repetition period of 4.8 nm. The WAXS revealed that the intensity ratio R0.42/0.37 of the 0.42 nm peak at 2.4 nm-1 to the 0.37 nm peak at 2.7 nm-1 was smaller in the SMS2-KO mouse than in the WT mouse. Due to the temperature dependence of the WAXS, the peaks of 2.4 and 2.7 nm-1 remained until the higher temperatures in SMS2-KO mouse SC than those in WT mouse SC. The results of X-ray diffraction suggest that deficiency of SMS2 may cause the appearance of highly ordered structures of SC, which in turn may reduce the barrier function of SC.

The ion balance of Shotokuseki extract promotes filaggrin fragmentation and increases amino acid production and pyrrolidone carboxylic acid content in three-dimensional cultured human epidermis.

Natural moisturizing factor (NMF) in the stratum corneum contributes to the retention of moisture there. The purpose of this study was to determine the penetration of ions in Shotokuseki extract (SE) into the three-dimensional cultured epidermis and the effect of NMF on the biosynthesis of amino acids and pyrrolidone carboxylic acid formation. Various ions, amino acids and pyrrolidone carboxylic acid were quantified by inductively coupled plasma mass spectrometry, fully automatic amino acid analyzer or high-performance liquid chromatography (HPLC) in three-dimensional cultured epidermis after application of SE. Gene expression levels of profilaggrin, calpain1, caspase14, and bleomycin hydrolase, which are involved in NMF production, were determined by reverse-transcription qPCR and bleomycin hydrolase activity was determined by aminopeptidase assay. The application of SE increased Na, K, Mg, Ca, Al, and Fe levels in three-dimensional cultured epidermis. The mRNA levels of the starting material of amino acid synthesis profilaggrin, and calpain1 and bleomycin hydrolase, which are involved in its fragmentation, increased. The activity of bleomycin hydrolase also increased. Furthermore, the levels of amino acids and pyrrolidone carboxylic acid increased in the three-dimensional cultured epidermis. This suggests that the ionic composition of SE may be involved in its moisturizing effect on the stratum corneum.

Effect of estrogen/progesterone ratio on the differentiation and the barrier function of epidermal keratinocyte and three-dimensional cultured human epidermis.

AIMS: Estrogen (E) and progesterone (P) are the major female hormones and are secreted with changing concentration ratios throughout the menstrual cycle. These hormones have been studied individually regarding their physiological function in the skin, but their concentration ratio (E/P) and its effect on the skin has not yet been investigated. The purpose of this study was to clarify the effect of the E/P ratio on skin barrier function. The menstrual cycle was divided into the menstrual, follicular, ovulation, and luteal phases. MATERIALS AND METHODS: The E/P concentration ratios corresponding with each phase were added to a three-dimensional epidermal model or normal human epidermal keratinocytes for 5 days. Gene and protein expression levels of several markers of cell differentiation, including loricrin (LOR) and transglutaminase (TGase), were quantified by real-time PCR and western blotting, respectively. Transepidermal water loss (TEWL) of the three-dimensional epidermal model was measured, and ceramide content was quantified by thin-layer chromatography. KEY FINDINGS: Gene expression of the epidermal differentiation markers, LOR and TGase, increased when applying the concentration ratio of E/P associated with the menstrual and luteal phases. The LOR protein level decreased from menstrual to luteal phases, and the TGase protein level increased from menstrual to luteal phases. During the same phases, ceramide NS increased and TEWL decreased. SIGNIFICANCE: Skin barrier function was improved by culturing cells at specific E/P concentration ratios, which would, therefore, be considered beneficial for female skin. This suggests that dysregulated E/P concentration ratios may be the cause of certain skin problems.

Effect of galactosylceramide on stratum corneum intercellular lipid synthesis in a three-dimensional cultured human epidermis model.

Intercellular lipids in the stratum corneum (SC), such as ceramide (CER), free fatty acid (FFA), and cholesterol (CHOL), contribute to the formation of stable lamellar structures in the SC, making them important for skin barrier function. ß-Galactosylceramide (GalCer) is a glycosphingolipid that is used in some cosmetics and quasi-drugs in anticipation of a moisturizing effect. GalCer promotes keratinocyte differentiation and increases CER production by increasing ß-glucocerebrosidase (ß-GCase) activity. However, few reports have described the mechanism of these effects, and detailed studies on the role of GalCer in intercellular lipid production in the SC have not been conducted. This study investigated the effect of GalCer on the metabolism and production of intercellular lipids in the SC in a three-dimensional cultured epidermis model. After reacting GalCer with a homogenate solution of three-dimensional cultured epidermis, GalCer was hardly metabolized. Treatment of the three-dimensional cultured epidermis with GalCer increased the expression of genes involved in the ß-GCase metabolic pathway and promoted CER production. In addition, GalCer treatment reduced the expression of FFA metabolism-related genes as well as palmitic acid levels. In addition, transepidermal water loss, which is a barrier index, was reduced by GalCer treatment. These findings suggested that GalCer, which is hardly metabolized, affects the production of intercellular lipids in the SC and improves skin barrier function.

[Pathogenic and Compensatory Mechanisms in Epidermis of Sphingomyelin Synthase 2-Deficient Mice].

Sphingomyelin (SM) is a constituent of cellular membranes, while ceramides (Cer) produced from SM on plasma membranes serve as a lipid mediator that regulates cell proliferation, differentiation, and apoptosis. In the skin, SM also is a precursor of Cer, an important constituent of epidermal permeability barrier. We investigated the role of epidermal SM synthase (SMS)2, an isoform of SMS, which modulates SM and Cer levels on plasma membranes. Although SMS2-knockout (SMS2-KO) mice were not neonatal lethal, an ichthyotic phenotype with epidermal hyperplasia and hyperkeratosis was evident at birth, which persisted until 2 weeks of age. These mice showed abnormal lamellar body morphology and secretion, and abnormal extracellular lamellar membranes in the stratum corneum. These abnormalities were no longer evident by 4 weeks of age in SMS2-KO mice. Our study suggests that (1) exposure to a dry terrestrial environment initiates compensatory responses, thereby normalizing epidermal ichthyotic abnormalities and (2) that a nonlethal gene abnormality can cause an ichthyotic skin phenotype.

Enhancement of Cornified Envelope-Related Gene and Protein Expression by Carba Cyclic Phosphatidic Acid in Normal Human Epidermal Keratinocytes.

The aim of this study was to examine the effects of carba cyclic phosphatidic acid (ccPA) on cornified envelope (CE) formation and keratinocyte differentiation. ccPA-treated keratinocytes showed higher mRNA and protein levels of differentiation markers and CE components than untreated cells. These results suggest that ccPA could serve as therapeutic targets for treating skin barrier dysfunction because of their roles in upregulating genes and proteins associated with CE formation and keratinocyte differentiation.

Effect of Lactic Fermentation Products on Human Epidermal Cell Differentiation, Ceramide Content, and Amino Acid Production.

INTRODUCTION: Lactic fermentation products (LFPs) are thought to affect "good" bacteria in the gut. We previously reported that oral administration of LFPs has beneficial therapeutic effects in a mouse model of atopic dermatitis. However, it is unclear how LFPs affect human epidermal cell differentiation, ceramide (Cer), and amino acid production. OBJECTIVE: The aim of this study was to determine the effects of LFPs on epidermal cell differentiation, by assessing amino acid and Cer production. METHODS: A 3-dimensional cultured human epidermis model and normal human epidermal keratinocytes were used. Cytotoxicity tests were performed using alamar Blue. Transepidermal water loss (TEWL) was used as an index to assess barrier function. Keratin 1 (K1), keratin 5 (K5), keratin 10 (K10), involucrin (INV), calpain 1, and transglutaminase (TGase) (markers of differentiation) and profilaggrin (proFLG) and bleomycin hydrolase (amino acid synthesis-related genes) expression levels were quantified by RT-PCR. In addition, TGase protein levels were measured by Western blotting. The intercellular lipid content of the stratum corneum was measured by high-performance thin-layer chromatography. Amino acids were quantified using an amino acid analyzer. Finally, bound water content in the stratum corneum was measured by differential scanning calorimetry. RESULTS: Cell viability did not change, but TEWL was significantly decreased in the cells treated with LFPs compared with the control cells. Treatment with LFPs significantly increased expression of the late-differentiation markers INV and TGase at the RNA level. Furthermore, TGase protein expression was significantly increased by treatment with LFPs. Treating a 3-dimensional cultured epidermis model with LFPs significantly increased the intercellular lipid content of the stratum corneum and production of the amino acid arginine (Arg). The amount of bound water in the stratum corneum was increased significantly in the LFP application group. CONCLUSION: Treatment with LFPs promotes human epidermal cell differentiation and increases the intercellular content of the free fatty acid, Chol, Cer [NS], Cer [AS], and Cer [AP]. This may result in improved skin barrier function. The increased amount of Arg observed in keratinocytes may help improve water retention.

[Improvement of the Skin Barrier Function with Physiologically Active Substances].

Intercellular lipids in the stratum corneum (SC), including ceramides (CERs), cholesterol, and fatty acids, are important for maintaining the skin barrier function. CERs in the SC have vital roles in water retention and the barrier function. A decrease in intercellular lipids, however, reduces the skin barrier function. In this study, the ability of CER precursors to increase the level of CERs in the SC and improve the skin barrier function was examined. Glucosylceramide and sphingomyelin liposomes were used as CER precursors and prepared with a thin-film method. The particle diameter and surface potential of glucosylceramide liposomes were 120.0 nm and -20 mV, while those of sphingomyelin liposomes were 153.3 nm and -11.4 mV, respectively. Transmission electron microscopy images showed that both liposomes were closed vesicles having a lamellar structure. These liposomes were applied from the SC side of a three-dimensional cultured human epidermis model, and the level of CERs in the epidermis was measured by high-performance thin-layer chromatography. In this study, the application of glucosylceramide or sphingomyelin liposomes increased the amount of CERs. In addition, the precursors of CERs were effective in improving the skin barrier function.

Influence of Oral Administration of Lactic Acid Bacteria Metabolites on Skin Barrier Function and Water Content in a Murine Model of Atopic Dermatitis.

The effects of orally administered lactic acid bacteria metabolites on skin were studied using an atopic dermatitis-like murine model generated by feeding HR-AD to mice. Lactic acid bacteria metabolites were obtained by inoculating and culturing soy milk with 35 strains of 16 species of lactic acid bacteria. The atopic dermatitis-like murine model was generated by feeding HR-AD to HR-1 mice for 40 days. The skin condition of HR-AD-fed mice worsened compared with normal mice, showing reduced water content in the stratum corneum, increased transepidermal water loss (TEWL), reduced ceramide AP content in the stratum corneum, and increased epidermis thickness. When HR-AD-fed mice were orally administered a raw liquid containing lactic acid bacteria metabolites, water content in the stratum corneum, TEWL, ceramide AP content in the stratum corneum, and epidermis thickness improved. To determine the active components responsible for these effects, filtrate, residue, and lipid components extracted from the raw liquid containing lactic acid bacteria metabolites were examined. While water-soluble components and residue obtained after filtration had no effects, the lipid fraction showed similar effects to the raw liquid. These findings suggest that lactic acid bacteria metabolites improve skin injury in an atopic dermatitis-like murine model.

Chimyl Alcohol Suppresses PGE2 Synthesis by Human Epidermal Keratinocytes through the Activation of PPAR-γ.

Alkyl glyceryl ethers (AKGs) are widely used as emulsion stabilizers, and their anti-inflammatory effects are well known. Daily exposure to environmental stresses, such as chemicals, low humidity and ultraviolet light (UV), can initiate and promote the development of various skin problems. Among those stresses, it has been established that UV induces skin pigmentation and accelerates premature skin aging due to the inflammation that results. Here, we investigated whether chimyl alcohol (CA), which is an AKG, suppresses the inflammatory process. The suppression of cell damage and the reduction of intracellular levels of reactive oxygen species (ROS) in normal human epidermal keratinocytes (NHEKs) after UVB exposure was evaluated using the Neutral red (NR) and the 2',7'-dichlorodihydrofluorescein diacetate (DCFDA) assays, respectively. Moreover, the expression levels of mRNAs and proteins related to inflammation were evaluated by Real-time RT-PCR and ELISA assays, respectively. CA suppressed prostaglandin E2 (PGE2) production in UVB-exposed NHEKs according to the down-regulated expression level of cyclooxygenase-2 (COX-2) mRNA. Furthermore, CA up-regulated the mRNA expression levels of peroxisome proliferator-activated receptor (PPAR)-γ, nuclear factor E2-related factor 2 (Nrf2) and γ-glutamyl cysteine synthase (γ-GCS) in NHEKs. Finally, we examined the effects of CA on siPPAR-γ transfected NHEKs. siPPAR-γ transfection of NHEKs abolished the mRNA expression levels of Nrf2 and UVB-stimulated PGE2 secretion that were regulated by CA. Hence, CA suppresses the UVB-induced COX-2 mRNA expression and PGE2 production through PPAR-γ as an agonist. We conclude that CA provides useful protection and/or alleviation against UV damage.

A new strategy for the passive skin delivery of nanoparticulate, high molecular weight hyaluronic acid prepared by a polyion complex method.

Restoring hyaluronic acid (HA) content is important for maintaining the function of photo-aged skin. This study aimed to evaluate the passive delivery into skin of HA nanoparticles formed by the polyion complex method. Nanoparticles were prepared by mixing and stirring anionic HA with a cationic polymer, protamine, at the charge ratio 55:45. The permeation of fluorescently-labelled HA nanoparticles (HANP) or free HA through hairless mouse skin was characterized in vitro. HANP or free HA was applied to ultraviolet (UV)-irradiated mice in vivo, and their transepidermal water loss (TEWL) was measured after 4 days. HA that had been delivered into skin was separated and characterized by molecular sieve chromatography. HANP were able to deliver HA into the dermis both in vitro and in vivo, whereas free HA penetrated no further than the stratum corneum. Following HANP application, HA within the skin was present in the form of free HA rather than nanoparticles. When applied in vivo, HANP significantly reduced the TEWL caused by UV irradiation. Thus, although free HA does not penetrate into the skin by passive diffusion, HA can be effectively delivered by nanoparticles. HA is then released from the nanoparticles and can contribute to barrier recovery following UV irradiation.

Epidermal permeability barrier function and sphingolipid content in the skin of sphingomyelin synthase 2 deficient mice.

Sphingomyelin synthase (SMS) is an enzyme that generates sphingomyelin (SM) from ceramide (CER) and phosphatidylcholine. SM in the epidermis is a precursor of CER, an important lipid for epidermal permeability barrier function. However, the physiological role of SMS in skin is unclear. To uncover the function of SMS in skin, we investigated sphingolipid metabolism enzyme activity in skin, SM content in the epidermis, CER content in the stratum corneum (SC) and transepidermal water loss (TEWL) as an indicator of barrier function in SMS2-knockout (KO) mice. The activities of sphingolipid metabolism enzymes in skin homogenates were measured using a fluorescently labelled substrate. Enzymatic reaction products were detected by high-performance liquid chromatography (HPLC). Lipids in the epidermis or SC were extracted and quantified by high-performance thin layer chromatography (HPTLC). TEWL was measured using a Tewameter TM300. In SMS2-KO mice, SMS activity in skin homogenates, epidermal SM content and SC CER content were significantly decreased relative to wild-type (WT) mice. The TEWL of SMS2-KO mice was significantly increased compared to WT mice. Our data indicate that SMS2 generates SM in the epidermis and contributes to epidermal permeability barrier function and will support understanding of SM-related metabolic disorders.

Recovery Effects of Oral Administration of Glucosylceramide and Beet Extract on Skin Barrier Destruction by UVB in Hairless Mice.

Purified glucosylceramide from beet extract (beet GlcCer) and beet extract containing an equal amount of GlcCer were administered orally to ultra violet B (UVB)-irradiated mice, and differences in the protective effects against skin barrier dysfunction caused by UVB irradiation were compared. In the beet GlcCer group, epidermal thickening and the decrease in stratum corneum (SC) ceramide content caused by UVB irradiation were reduced. In the group that was orally administered beet extract containing glucosylceramide, effects similar to those in the beet GlcCer group were observed. Oral administration of beet GlcCer had no obvious effects against an increase in TEWL or decrease in SC water content after UVB irradiation, but there was improvement in the beet extract group. Oral administration of beet GlcCer is effective in improving skin barrier function in UVB-irradiated mice. Beet extract contains constituents other than GlcCer that are also effective in improving skin barrier function.

Effect of glycation focusing on the process of epidermal lipid synthesis in a reconstructed skin model and membrane fluidity of stratum corneum lipids.

We previously reported that epidermal glycation causes an increase in saturated fatty acid (FA) content in a differentiated reconstructed skin model and HaCaT cells. However, the relationship between ceramides (CERs) and glycation and their effects on stratum corneum (SC) barrier function was not elucidated. In this study, we investigated the effect of glycation on lipid content in 6-day-old cultured reconstructed skin. We used the EPISKIN RHE 6D model and induced glycation using glyoxal. In addition to transepidermal water loss, content of CERs, cholesterol and FA in the reconstructed epidermal model were analyzed by high performance thin layer chromatography. Expression of genes related to ceramide metabolism was determined by real time RT-PCR. Membrane fluidity of stratum corneum lipid liposomes (SCLL) that mimic glycated epidermis was analyzed using an electron spin resonance technique. It was found that FA was significantly increased by glycation. CER[NS], [AP], and cholesterol were decreased in glycated epidermis. Expression of ceramide synthase 3 (CERS3) was significantly decreased while fatty acid elongase 3 was increased by glyoxal in a dose dependent manner. Membrane fluidity of SCLL mimicking the lipid composition of glycated epidermis was increased compared with controls. Therefore, disruption of CER and FA content in glycated epidermis may be regulated via CERS3 expression and contribute to abnormal membrane fluidity.

The Effect of Glycation on Epidermal Lipid Content, Its Metabolism and Change in Barrier Function.

BACKGROUND/AIMS: Advanced glycation end products, which are linked to both aging and hyperglycemia, cause marked functional and structural alterations in human skin. Though it is well known that the metabolism of glucose is closely associated with that of fatty acid (FA), sharing the same energy-yielding reaction pathways as glucose, its effect on the epidermis has been unclear so far. METHODS: Content of ceramides, cholesterol and FA in a reconstructed epidermal model glycated by glyoxal was analyzed by high-performance thin-layer chromatography. FA species extracted from HaCaT keratinocytes was determined by gas chromatography/mass spectrometry. Regulation of FA synthesis was analyzed by real-time PCR. For physiological analysis, excised mouse skin was glycated using a vertical diffusion cell and used for the evaluation of barrier function by transepidermal water loss measurement and observation of penetration of sodium fluorescein. RESULTS: Saturated FA content was significantly increased in glycated epidermis, and glycation upregulated mRNA expression of FA elongases 2 and 3 and FA synthase in HaCaT cells. Further, both inside-out and outside-in barriers were disrupted in glycated excised skin. CONCLUSION: Biological and physical change in the epidermis, especially upregulation of FA synthesis by glycation, contributed to barrier disruption, and inhibiting glycation may offer an effective treatment option for aged or glycated skin.