Starch- and carboxymethyl cellulose-based films as active beauty masks with papain incorporation.

This work aimed to evaluate the effects of the incorporation of papain in biopolymeric-based beauty face masks with exfoliation activity of the skin. The masks were produced by casting with starch and carboxymethyl cellulose blend (50:50 weight percentages). The macro and microstructure, protein distribution, thickness, moisture content, water contact angle, solubility matter, and mechanical properties were evaluated. Moreover, the in vitro proteolytic and exfoliation activity and storage stability were also evaluated. The films with papain had a more concise matrix which provided higher mechanical properties and lower water solubility when compared to the control film (without papain). Films with 1, 2, and 5 % of papain had enzymatic activity for casein and porcine skin substrates. The micrographs of porcine skin treated with 2 and 5 % of papain showed more difference when compared to the control sample, indicating the enzymatic exfoliation. Differently from the solution of papain, the enzyme that was immobilized in the films maintained its activity for up 90 days during the storage stability assay. Based on the physicochemical properties and proteolytic activities, the films preserved the exfoliation activity of papain and have interesting characteristics to act as beauty masks in the cosmetic field.

In vitro effect on the proteolytic activity of papain with proteins of the skin as substrate.

OBJECTIVE: This work aims to evaluate the effects of enzyme concentration, pH, temperature and time course degree of hydrolysis (DH) of papain regarding further development of pharmaceutical and cosmetic formulations. METHODS: The hydrolysis of casein, collagen, keratin and porcine skin at pH and temperature ranges of the human skin was evaluated. Also, low contact times of enzyme-substrate were studied. The incorporation of 3mM of cysteine improved the caseinolytic (PU), collagenolytic (CU) and keratinolytic (KU) activities of papain. RESULTS: In general, the increase from 0.1 to 1.0 or 2.0 mgmL-1 of papain improved PU, CU and KU. When 2.0 mgmL-1 of papain was used, the highest DH of casein, collagen and keratin was obtained at 240min (14%, 35% and 6% respectively). The decrease in pH and temperature reduced all proteolytic activities, but papain maintained at least 50% and 40% of its activity at 26°C and pH  4.5 respectively. Scanning electron micrographs of the surface of the skin showed that papain application had exfoliating activity. CONCLUSION: This preformulation study demonstrated that papain concentration, time of application and pH of the product should be evaluated when developing a product to promote the hydrolysis of the proteins of the skin.

OBJECTIF: Ce travail vise à évaluer les effets de la concentration d'enzyme, du pH, de la température et du degré d'hydrolyse (DH) de la papaïne concernant le développement ultérieur de formulations pharmaceutiques et cosmétiques. MÉTHODES: L'hydrolyse de la caséine, du collagène, de la kératine et de la peau porcine à des plages de pH et de température de la peau humaine a été évaluée. De plus, des faibles temps de contact enzyme-substrat ont été étudiés. L'incorporation de 3mM de cystéine a amélioré les activités caséinolytiques (PU), collagénolytiques (CU) et kératinolytiques (KU) de la papaïne. RÉSULTATS: En général, l'augmentation de 0,1 à 1,0 ou 2,0 mg.mL−1 de papaïne a amélioré la PU, la CU et la KU. Lorsque 2,0 mg mL−1 de papaïne ont été utilisés, les DH les plus élevées de caséine, de collagène et de kératine ont été obtenues à 240 min (14, 35 et 6 %, respectivement). La diminution du pH et de la température a réduit toutes les activités protéolytiques, mais la papaïne a maintenu au moins 50 et 40 % de son activité à 26 °C et pH 4,5, respectivement. Des micrographies obtenues par microscopie électronique à balayage de la surface de la peau ont montré que l'application de la papaïne avait une activité exfoliante. CONCLUSION: Cette étude de pré-formulation a démontré que la concentration de papaïne, le temps d'application et le pH du produit doivent être évalués lors du développement d'un produit pour favoriser l'hydrolyse des protéines de la peau.

An overview of the use of proteolytic enzymes as exfoliating agents.

BACKGROUND: Proteolytic enzymes are biological catalysts that can compose cosmetic formulations: These enzymes are capable of mimicking the desquamation process of the skin, acting as exfoliants. Although enzymatic exfoliation is not new and commercial products were easily found, there is a lack of scientific literature about this topic. METHODS: A search was carried out until 2021 in different scientific databases (Web of Science, Scopus, Scielo, PubMed, etc.). In vitro and in vivo studies that evaluated the application of enzymes aiming to exfoliate the skin or with a similar cosmetic or dermatological application were selected. RESULTS: Only 11 articles were found, and, among them, few studies applied enzymes as exfoliants in clinical trials. Nevertheless, the results demonstrate that the enzymes can exfoliate the skin and improve some desired characteristics of the organ. Papain, bromelain, keratinases, and microbial proteases are some enzymes already applied as exfoliants. The study of pH, temperature, and stabilization of the enzymes in cosmetic formulations were also demonstrated to be important aspects to be evaluated, principally in preventing loss of enzyme activity and possible allergens/irritations on the skin. CONCLUSION: This literature review showed the main aspects that should be evaluated before considering producing or applying proteolytic enzymes in exfoliation products/procedures. The use of enzymatic exfoliation has potential in the cosmetic industry. Hence, further robust in vivo studies are needed before the enzymatic exfoliation can be recommended with safety as a treatment modality in the current conditions.

Nonwoven membranes for tissue engineering: an overview of cartilage, epithelium, and bone regeneration.

Scaffold-type biomaterials are crucial for application in tissue engineering. Among them, the use of a nonwoven scaffold has grown in recent years and has been widely investigated for the regeneration of different types of tissues. Several polymers, whether they are synthetic, biopolymers or both, have been used to produce a scaffold that can mimic the natural tissue to which it will be applied to. The scaffolds used in tissue engineering must be biocompatible and allow cell adhesion and proliferation to be applied in tissue engineering. In addition, the scaffolds should maintain the mechanical properties and architecture of the desired tissue. Nonwoven fabrics have produced good results and are more extensively applied for the regeneration of cartilage, epithelial and bone tissues. Recent advances in tissue engineering have shown promising results, however, no ideal material or standardization parameters and characteristics of the materials were obtained. The present review provides an overview of the application of nonwoven scaffolds, including the main results obtained regarding the properties of the biomaterials and their applications in vitro and in vivo, focusing on the cartilaginous, the epithelium, and bone tissue regeneration.