ABSTRACT
The SWAN wave model is widely used in coastal waters and the main focus of this work is on its application in a harbor. Its last released version - SWAN 40.51 - includes an approximation to compute diffraction, however, so far there are few published works that discuss this matter. The performance of the model is therefore investigated in a harbor where reflection and diffraction play a relevant role. To assess its estimates, a phase-resolving Boussinesq wave model is employed as well, together with measurements carried out at a small-scale model of the area behind the breakwater. For irregular, short-crested waves with broad directional spreading, the importance of diffraction is relatively small. On the other hand, reflection of the incident waves is significant, increasing the energy inside the harbor. Nevertheless, the SWAN model does not achieve convergence when it is set to compute diffraction and reflection simultaneously. It is concluded that, for situations typically encountered in harbors, with irregular waves near reflective obstacles, the model should be set without the diffraction option.
O modelo de ondas SWAN é amplamente empregado em simulações na região costeira e o presente trabalho investiga sua aplicação dentro de um porto. A última versão disponibilizada para a comunidade - SWAN 40.51 - inclui uma aproximação para computar a difração, embora, até o momento, poucos trabalhos abordando este tema foram publicados. O desempenho do modelo é estudado em um porto onde os fenômenos de reflexão e difração são importantes. Para avaliar suas estimativas, um modelo do tipo Boussinesq também é empregado, juntamente com medições realizadas em um modelo em escala reduzida da área atrás do quebramar. Para ondas irregulares, com cristas curtas e espalhamento direcional mais amplo, a importância da difração é relativamente menor. Contudo, o modelo SWAN não alcança convergência quando programado para estimar difração e reflexão simultaneamente. Conclui-se que, para situações normalmente encontradas em portos, com ondas irregulares próximas a obstáculos refletivos, o modelo deve ser empregado sem a opção de difração.
ABSTRACT
Synthetic Aperture Radar (SAR) onboard satellites is the only source of directional wave spectra with continuous and global coverage. Millions of SAR Wave Mode (SWM) imagettes have been acquired since the launch in the early 1990's of the first European Remote Sensing Satellite ERS-1 and its successors ERS-2 and ENVISAT, which has opened up many possibilities specially for wave data assimilation purposes. The main aim of data assimilation is to improve the forecasting introducing available observations into the modeling procedures in order to minimize the differences between model estimates and measurements. However there are limitations in the retrieval of the directional spectrum from SAR images due to nonlinearities in the mapping mechanism. The Max-Planck Institut (MPI) scheme, the first proposed and most widely used algorithm to retrieve directional wave spectra from SAR images, is employed to compare significant wave heights retrieved from ERS-1 SAR against buoy measurements and against the WAM wave model. It is shown that for periods shorter than 12 seconds the WAM model performs better than the MPI, despite the fact that the model is used as first guess to the MPI method, that is the retrieval is deteriorating the first guess. For periods longer than 12 seconds, the part of the spectrum that is directly measured by SAR, the performance of the MPI scheme is at least as good as the WAM model.
