Predicting skin penetration of actives from complex cosmetic formulations: an evaluation of inter formulation and inter active effects during formulation optimization for transdermal delivery.

Twenty products, containing a radiolabelled form of each active in typical cosmetic formulations, were made and applied to female human epidermal membranes mounted in Franz diffusion cells for 48 h under 'in use' conditions. The products consisted of combinations of five formulations (a hydro-alcoholic gel, an oil in water emulsion, a water in oil emulsion, a microemulsion and an oil) with four model drug actives (testosterone, hydrocortisone, 5-fluorouracil and ketoconazole). Steady-state flux appeared to be reached by 8 h and maintained for all products, other than for the microemulsions, consistent with the actives being present in the residual formulation on the skin at saturation. The recovery for each active at the end of the 48-h study (from a series of stratum corneum tape strips, the remaining skin, cumulative amount penetrating into the receptor solution, product washed from the skin and on the donor chamber cap) ranged from 86.5% to 100.6%. The rank order of the fluxes for the actives from the hydro-alcoholic gel is consistent with the known active molecular size and polarity determinants for maximum epidermal flux. Actives with similar steady-state (maximum) fluxes from a range of formulations had retention in the stratum corneum and similar transport rate constants through the stratum corneum. The microemulsion formulation significantly enhanced both the stratum corneum steady-state flux and transport rate constant for 5-fluorouracil, hydrocortisone and testosterone. The penetration flux of each active could be related to its size and polarity and appeared maximal when the actives in the different cosmetic formulations applied to the skin under 'in use' conditions were likely to remain in the residual product on the skin as a saturated solution after solvent evaporation. Enhanced penetration fluxes can be achieved by formulation selection and an appropriate choice/mix of emollients/adjuvants. The principles described here provide a framework for understanding the delivery of cosmetic ingredients from various formulations.

Effect of emulsifiers and their liquid crystalline structures in emulsions on dermal and transdermal delivery of hydroquinone, salicylic acid and octadecenedioic acid.

This study investigated the effect of emulsifiers and their liquid crystalline structures on the dermal and transdermal delivery of hydroquinone (HQ), salicylic acid (SA) and octadecenedioic acid (DIOIC). Emulsions containing liquid crystalline phases were compared with an emulsion without liquid crystals. Skin permeation experiments were performed using Franz-type diffusion cells and human abdominal skin dermatomed to a thickness of 400 mum. The results indicate that emulsifiers arranging in liquid crystalline structures in the water phase of the emulsion enhanced the skin penetration of the active ingredients with the exception of SA. SA showed a different pattern of percutaneous absorption, and no difference in dermal and transdermal delivery was observed between the emulsions with and without liquid crystalline phases. The increase in skin penetration of HQ and DIOIC could be attributed to an increased partitioning of the actives into the skin. It was hypothesized that the interaction between the different emulsifiers and active ingredients in the formulations varied and, therefore, the solubilization capacities of the various emulsifiers and their association structures.

Formulation effects of topical emulsions on transdermal and dermal delivery.

It has been recognized that the vehicle in which a permeant is applied to the skin has a distinctive effect on the dermal and transdermal delivery of active ingredients. The cutaneous and percutaneous absorptions can be enhanced, e.g. by an increase in thermodynamic activity, supersaturation and penetration modifiers. Furthermore, dermal and transdermal delivery can be influenced by the interactions that may occur between the vehicle and the skin on the one hand, and interactions between the active ingredient and the skin on the other hand. Emulsions are widely used as cosmetic and pharmaceutical formulations because of their excellent solubilizing capacities for lipophilic and hydrophilic active ingredients and application acceptability. This review focuses, in particular, on the effect of emulsions on the dermal and transdermal delivery of active ingredients. It is shown that the type of emulsion (w/o vs. o/w emulsion), the droplet size, the emollient, the emulsifier as well as the surfactant organization (micelles, lyotropic liquid crystals) in the emulsion may affect the cutaneous and percutaneous absorption. Examples substantiate the fact that emulsion constituents such as emollients and emulsifiers should be selected carefully for optimal efficiency of the formulation. Moreover, to understand the influence of emulsion on dermal and transdermal delivery, the physicochemical properties of the formulation after application are considered.

Effect of penetration modifiers on the dermal and transdermal delivery of drugs and cosmetic active ingredients.

In this study the effect of 2 penetration modifiers, dimethyl isosorbide (DMI) and diethylene glycol monoethyl ether (DGME) on the skin delivery of hydroquinone (HQ), salicylic acid (SA) and octadecenedioic acid (DIOIC) was investigated. Ten percent DMI and DGME were separately formulated into oil-in-water emulsions containing 1.8% HQ, SA and DIOIC, respectively. Skin delivery and the flux across split-thickness human skin of the active ingredients were determined using Franz diffusion cells. An emulsion with 10% water incorporated instead of the water-soluble penetration modifiers served as a control. The study showed that neither 10% DMI nor 10% DGME significantly enhanced the skin permeation of the various lipophilic active ingredients or the uptake into the skin. It was hypothesized that the addition of the penetration modifiers to the emulsions not only enhanced the solubility of the various active ingredients in the skin but also in the formulation, resulting in a reduced thermodynamic activity and hence a weaker driving force for penetration. Therefore, the effect of DMI and DGME on the solubility of the active ingredients in the skin was counteracted by a simultaneous reduction in the thermodynamic activity in the formulation.

A study on the influence of emulsion droplet size on the skin penetration of tetracaine.

OBJECTIVES/AIMS: The influence of emulsion droplet size on the skin penetration of a model drug, tetracaine, was studied. For this purpose, in vitro dermal and transdermal delivery of tetracaine from 6 emulsions (3 macro-emulsions with droplet sizes >1 microm and 3 nano-emulsions with droplet sizes <100 nm) were tested. METHODS: Two approaches were used: in the first one, the composition of the emulsions was kept constant, while in the second one, the surfactant concentration in the aqueous phase was kept constant by varying the overall surfactant concentration. RESULTS: The results from emulsions differing only in droplet size did not provide statistically significant evidence for the anticipated increase in transdermal or dermal delivery (after 24 h) when reducing emulsion droplet size. The same results were obtained when the surfactant concentration in the aqueous phase was kept constant, indicating that there is no influence of emulsion droplet size on the skin penetration of tetracaine within the droplet size range studied. CONCLUSION: This is in contrast to what has been reported in various publications that claim penetration to increase with reducing droplet size. It should be noted that the results reported so far are based on emulsions that apart from droplet size also differed in composition and/or system components.

Interaction of lipophilic moisturizers on stratum corneum lipid domains in vitro and in vivo.

Dry skin symptoms such as scaling and itching are often treated with lipophilic moisturizers. The aim of this study was to investigate the effect of lipophilic moisturizers on the stratum corneum (SC) ultra-structure and lipid organization. Lipophilic moisturizers were applied on the forearms of 4 healthy volunteers for 3 h. Subsequently, the application sites were tape stripped, and selected tape strips prepared for Freeze Fracture Electron Microscopy (FFEM), a method to visualize the SC intercellular lipid parallel to the skin surface. To investigate the effect of lipid moisturizers on the lipid lamellae, isolated SC was pretreated with the lipophilic moisturizers for 24 h prior to performing small angle X-ray diffraction (SAXD) measurements. Additionally, the lipid organization of mixtures prepared with ceramides, cholesterol, free fatty acids and lipophilic moisturizer in a 2:1:1:1 molar ratio were studied using SAXD. The FFEM data (in vivo) as well as the SAXD data (in vitro) show that the lipophilic moisturizers do not change the lipid lamellar organization in the SC. Addition of 20% m/m lipophilic moisturizer to the ceramide:cholesterol:free fatty acids mixture did not inhibit the formation of the long periodicity phase, the characteristic lamellar phase in the SC, even though there was clear evidence that two of the three moisturizers were at least partially incorporated in the long periodicity phase. Concluding, all findings suggest that the lipophilic moisturizers investigated in this study do not drastically change the lamellar organization of the SC intracellular lipid matrix, but that the moisturizers form separate domains in the SC, as was visualized by FFEM.

A new mechanism of action for skin whitening agents: binding to the peroxisome proliferator-activated receptor.

Synopsis Octadecenedioic acid is known as a skin whitening agent but its activity is not mediated via a direct inhibition of tyrosinase. Based on the secondary properties of this molecule, such as its anti-inflammatory and anti-ageing effects, we postulated that octadecenedioic acid interacted with the peroxisome proliferator-activated receptor (PPAR) as this nuclear receptor also mediates these effects. Using reporter gene technology, we were indeed able to demonstrate binding of octadecenedioic acid to all three PPAR subtypes, in particular PPARgamma with an EC(50)-value of approx. 1 x 10(-6) m. Binding to PPARgamma of octadecenedioic acid or rosiglitazone, a known pharmaceutical PPARgamma agonist, led to reduced melanogenesis. Subsequently also tyrosinase mRNA (as measured by real-time polymerase chain reaction) and tyrosinase levels (as measured by Western blot) were reduced, suggesting the existence of a complete novel mechanism of skin whitening agents: binding to PPARgamma results in reduced tyrosinase mRNA expression which in turn results in less tyrosinase being formed. This in turn leads to reduced melanogenesis both in vitro and in vivo Because octadecenedioic acid binds not only to PPARgamma but also to PPARalpha and PPARdelta, other efficacies mediated via these receptors may also be expected.

GARField magnetic resonance profiling of the ingress of model skin-care product ingredients into human skin in vitro.

A preliminary study of the ingress of mineral oil, decanol, and glycerine into samples of human abdominal skin tissue in vitro made using magnetic resonance profiling with a GARField magnet is reported. Two layers, each circa 50 microm thick and attributed to stratum corneum and viable epidermis, are spatially resolved. Clear differences are observed in the magnetic resonance response of these layers arising from the application of the model skin-care product ingredients. In the case of decanol and glycerine, it is suggested that the profiles show evidence for the effects of moisturization, as distinct from hydration. In the case of glycerine, the effective ingress diffusion coefficient is calculated to be 1.3 +/- 0.5 x 10(-9) cm2s(-1).

Formulating for efficacy.

Active ingredients have been around in cosmetics for a long time but have they really resulted in active cosmetic products? In order to achieve this, the right active needs to be delivered to the right location at the right concentration for the correct period of time. And the extent (and therefore the concentration) of this delivery depends on the formulation. From a rather theoretical approach based on the polarity of the active ingredient, the stratum corneum and the oil phase, the Relative Polarity Index was established that enables the selection of a suitable emollient for ensuring skin penetration of the active ingredient. Practical examples subsequently show the validity of this approach that demonstrates that one can regulate the delivery of an active molecule (and therefore the efficacy of a cosmetic formulation) by selection and control of the emollient system. Cosmetic formulations are generally quite complex mixtures and subsequent experiments using different emulsifier systems indicated that this component of a cosmetic formulation could also have an impact on steering the active ingredient to the right layer of the skin, although it is too early to be able to derive general rules from this.

Irritancy ranking of anionic detergents using one-time occlusive, repeated occlusive and repeated open tests.

Discrepancies between the one-time patch test and the wash test regarding the ranking of irritancy of detergents have been found in the literature. The aim of the present study was to investigate the concordance of irritancy rank order of 4 anionic detergents tested by 3 different exposure methods, namely one-time occlusive, repeated short-time occlusive and repeated short-time open tests. These detergents were sodium cocoyl isethionate (ISE), sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS), soap and disodium lauryl 3-ethoxysulfosuccinate (SUC). The reactions were evaluated by visual scoring and by transepidermal water loss (TEWL) measurement. When scored visually, the rank order in the one-time test was: SOAP > or = SLS > or = ISE > SUC. The other test methods yielded a different order: SLS > ISE > or = SOAP > SUC. A similar rank order was obtained with TEWL measurement for all exposure methods. Generally, the concordance among the different exposure methods was high when evaluated by TEWL. The concordance was lower when evaluation was performed by visual scoring. The present study demonstrates that the choice of exposure model and evaluation method may be important variables influencing the outcome of irritancy testing. It is proposed that the repeated open test is the best way to simulate most in-use situations where the uncovered skin is exposed to detergents. The repeated occlusive test or the one-time patch test may be better to simulate situations in which the skin is occluded after irritation by detergents.

Metabolic conversion of cyoctol during skin passage in humans.

Upon application of 14C-labeled cyoctol to the forearm of healthy volunteers, no parent cyoctol was detectable in ipsilateral blood plasma. The 14C activity was largely accounted for by a component with higher lipophilicity than the parent compound, as justified from their HPLC retention. Thus, this study suggests that human skin is capable of nearly complete cutaneous first-pass metabolism, resulting in negligible systemic availability of cyoctol. In a comparable experiment, rabbits were also able to convert cyoctol during skin absorption to a more lipophilic metabolite, which was identified as the palmitoleic acid ester of O-demethylated cyoctol by GC/MS. However, chromatographic evidence indicates that the human ipsilateral metabolite differs from the rabbit cyoctol metabolite.

Transdermal drug delivery: efficacy and potential applications of the penetration enhancer Azone.

In this review, the properties, pharmaceutical profile, and metabolism of Azone are described, and the mechanism of its action in facilitating transdermal drug delivery is discussed. It is concluded that the compound is safe for human use, and of value in enhancing the cutaneous absorption of many types of drugs.

Disposition and metabolic profiling of the penetration enhancer Azone. I. In vitro studies: urinary profiles of hamster, rat, monkey, and man.

Chain-labeled 14C-Azone was intravenously administered to hamster, monkey, and rat, to compare its metabolic profile with that obtained previously in humans after dermal application. Azone-derived radioactivity was excreted predominantly in the urine for both hamster and monkey, which is similar to the disposition in humans. Metabolic profiling in urine revealed extensive systemic metabolism to occur in all species studied. The main fraction of the metabolites was most polar in man, followed by rat, monkey, and hamster. Traces of the parent compound were detectable only in hamster urine. Although some of the polar major human metabolites were also present in rat urine, the animals were unsuitable for collecting metabolites of Azone observed in humans. In rats, complete cleavage of the dodecyl side chain was ruled out by administering Azone that had been labeled at two distinct positions of the molecule. Additionally, oral administration of Azone to rats resulted in the same metabolic profile as intravenous administration, indicating that gastrointestinal metabolism does not occur or is similar to systemic metabolism.

Percutaneous absorption, metabolic profiling, and excretion of the penetration enhancer azone after multiple dosing of an azone-containing triamcinolone acetonide cream in humans.

Radioactive Azone (1.6%; 1-dodecylazacycloheptan-2-one) was incorporated in a therapeutic formulation containing triamcinolone acetonide at a concentration of 0.05%. This cream (TAZ) was applied for four consecutive days to human volunteers on the same 24-cm2 application area on the forearm for 12 h under occlusion. The percutaneous absorption of Azone as measured in the excreta appeared to be only 3.47 +/- 0.33% during the whole study period. Azone-derived radioactivity was predominantly excreted by the kidneys (97.8 +/- 0.4%). From the urinary excretion plot, it could be deduced that the flux of Azone through human skin increased during the study period, reaching a plateau within 2-3 d. Accumulation of Azone in the stratum corneum did not occur. Only unchanged Azone could be detected in the stratum corneum. Excretion was mainly in the form of very polar metabolites. Compared with pure Azone, the therapeutic formulation did not influence the metabolism, excretion route, or urinary elimination rate of the penetration enhancer.

The barrier function of the skin in relation to percutaneous absorption of drugs.

There is currently a high level of interest in using the skin as a route for delivering drugs. The skin, however, provides an efficient barrier against percutaneous absorption of drugs. This barrier function can be ascribed to the macroscopical structure of the stratum corneum, which consists of alternating lipoidal and hydrophylic regions. For this reason, physico-chemical characteristics of the drug, such as partition coefficient and molecular weight, play an important role in determining the facility of percutaneous absorption. Another factor to consider in transdermal drug delivery, is the vehicle in which the drug is formulated as it acts on the release of drug from the formulation. Moreover, vehicles may also interact with human stratum corneum, thereby affecting its barrier function. Surfactants and penetration enhancers are well-known examples of the latter. Subsequently, dosing conditions, such as humidity, temperature and occlusion, also have their impact on the actual input (rate) of drug through human skin. Finally, all bits of information are combined to form a reasonably faithful picture of percutaneous absorption.

Percutaneous absorption and elimination of the penetration enhancer Azone in humans.

The percutaneous absorption and elimination of Azone, a new penetration enhancer, were investigated in humans. The distribution and accumulation of Azone in the skin were studied by means of tape stripping. These studies reveal that pure Azone is poorly absorbed. Furthermore, what little Azone is absorbed appears to be rapidly cleared from the circulation by the kidneys. In order to explain the urinary excretion profile, the formation of at least one metabolite is suggested. No accumulation of Azone in the skin was observed.

Further in vitro and in vivo studies with the putative presynaptic dopamine agonist N,N-dipropyl-7-hydroxy-2-aminotetralin.

The in vitro binding of the putative dopamine autoreceptor agonist [3H]DP-7-ATN to rat striatal membrane homogenates was investigated. The maximum number of binding sites Bmax was 497.5 +/- 50.2 fmol/mg protein and the affinity constant KD was 8.3 +/- 1.5 nM using 10 microM (+) butaclamol to define non-specific binding. Lesion of the left medium forebrain bundle by 6-hydroxydopamine resulted in an almost complete loss of dopamine in the striatum but did not affect the binding of [3H]DP-7-ATN. The binding of [3H]DP-7-ATN to the homogenates of the dopaminergic cell bodies in the substantia nigra revealed a Bmax of 542.4 +/- 40.1 fmol/mg protein and a KD of 11.1 +/- 1.3 nM. The pharmacological profile of the binding was characterized as being to D-2 receptors. No direct in vitro evidence could be found for a selective binding to DA autoreceptors. The dopamine uptake inhibitor GBR 12909 interacted in a noncompetitive manner with the in vitro binding of [3H]DP-7-ATN and the latter compounds uptake into isolated synaptosomes was not through the specific dopamine uptake system but rather through diffusion. GBR 12909 failed to reveal any agonistic or antagonistic activity in the GBL model but was able to antagonize the hypomotility in rats induced by 0.25 mg/kg DP-7-ATN. The inhibitory effect of DP-7-ATN on DA release was also demonstrated using in vivo brain dialysis in conscious rats. Based on the above results, the possibility is discussed that the release regulating DA autoreceptors, which might be coupled to the reuptake complex, and the DA biosynthesis regulating autoreceptors, are different entities.