Engineered inorganic nanoparticles and cosmetics: facts, issues, knowledge gaps and challenges.

The cosmetic industry is among the first adaptors of nanotechnology through the use of engineered nanoparticles (ENPs) to enhance the performance of their products and meet the customers' needs. Recently, there have been increasing concerns from different societal stakeholders (e.g., governments, environmental activist pressure groups, scientists, general public, etc.) concerning the safety and environmental impact of ENPs used in cosmetics. This review paper seeks to address the twin concerns of the safety of cosmetics and the potential environmental impacts due to the constituent chemicals-the ENPs. The safety aspect is addressed by examining recently published scientific data on the possibility of ENPs penetrating human skin. Data indicates that although particular types of ENPs can penetrate into the skin, until now no penetration has been detected beyond the stratum corneum of the ENPs used in cosmetics. Yet, important lessons can be learned from the more recent studies that identify the characteristics of ENPs penetrating into and permeating through human skin. On the part of the environmental impact, the scientific literature has very limited or none existent specific articles addressing the environmental impacts of ENPs owing to the cosmetic products. Therefore, general ecotoxicological data on risk assessment of ENPs has been applied to ascertain if there are potential environmental impacts from cosmetics. Results include some of the first studies on the qualitative and quantitative risk assessment of ENPs from cosmetics and suggest that further research is required as the knowledge is incomplete to make definitive conclusions as is the case with skin penetration. The authors conclude that the cosmetic industry should be more transparent in its use of nanotechnology in cosmetic products to facilitate realistic risk assessments as well as scientists and pressure groups being accurate in their conclusions on the general applicability of their findings. Transparency in cosmetics needs nanotechnology, but nanotechnology in cosmetics also needs transparency...

Hydrophilic and lipophilic moisturizers have similar penetration profiles but different effects on SC water distribution in vivo.

Dry skin is often treated with hydrophilic and/or lipophilic moisturizers. Hydrophilic moisturizers must penetrate the stratum corneum (SC) deeply to function properly, whereas lipophilic moisturizers should remain in the upper SC layers. In this study, both types of moisturizers were applied on volunteers for 3 h, after which the relative amount of moisturizer and the water distribution in the SC were determined using attenuated total reflectance-Fourier transform infrared (ATR-FTIR) spectroscopy in combination with tape-stripping. The results show that while hydrophilic moisturizers penetrate much more readily than lipophilic moisturizers, the latter are abundantly present in the upper regions of the SC. It was also observed that a 3-h treatment with lipophilic moisturizer did not result in increased water levels in the SC, whereas hydrophilic moisturizers retained water where they are located. The results suggest that upon prolonged application, adequate amounts of moisturizer can be obtained in those regions where they may cause moisturization in the central part of the SC. However, a single application of 3 h is probably too short to exert increased hydration as measured with ATR-FTIR.

Quantitative determination of octadecenedioic acid in human skin and transdermal perfusates by gas chromatography-mass spectrometry.

A gas chromatographic (GC) method with mass spectrometric (MS) detection is developed and validated for the accurate and precise determination of octadecenedioic acid (C18:1 DIOIC) in human skin samples and transdermal perfusates. C18:1 DIOIC is extracted using methanol. The saturated analogue 1,18-octadecanedioic acid (C18:0 DIOIC) is added as internal standard. Prior to analysis, both compounds are converted to their trimethylsilylated derivatives using N,O-bis(trimethylsilyl)trifluoroacetamide with 15% trimethylchlorosilane. Quantitation is performed in selected ion monitoring mode with a limit of quantitation of 250 ng/mL. Linearity with a correlation coefficient of 0.998 is obtained over a concentration range of 250-2000 ng/mL. Values for within-day accuracy range from 94.5% to 102.4%, and from 97.5% to 105.8% for between-day accuracy. Within- and between-day precision values are better than 5% and 7%, respectively. The recovery values from the various matrices vary from 92.6% to 104.0%. The GC-MS method is employed for the determination of C18:1 DIOIC after application of an emulsion containing the active ingredient onto human skin in vitro. The results demonstrate that the method is suitable for the determination of C18:1 DIOIC in human skin samples and transdermal perfusates.

Lipophilic and hydrophilic moisturizers show different actions on human skin as revealed by cryo scanning electron microscopy.

To study the mode of action of moisturizers on human skin, hydrophilic moisturizers in water and neat lipophilic moisturizers were applied on excised skin for 24 h at 32 degrees C. Samples of the treated skin were subsequently visualized in a cryoscanning electron microscope. The stratum corneum (SC) appeared as a region of swollen corneocytes (the swollen region) sandwiched between two layers of relatively dry corneocytes (the upper and lower non-swelling regions respectively). Lipophilic moisturizers increased the water content of the SC, whereas hydrophilic moisturizers can also reduce the water content of the SC. When focusing on the effect of the moisturizers on the three different regions, it was observed that cells in the swelling region are most sensitive to the application of the moisturizers and that the change in SC thickness is most influenced by the change in the thickness of the swelling region. Summarizing, SC cells are not equally sensitive to moisturizer application: centrally located corneocytes are more sensitive than corneocytes in the upper and the lowest regions of the SC.

Water distribution and related morphology in human stratum corneum at different hydration levels.

This study focused on the water distribution in human stratum corneum and on the swelling of the corneocytes. For this purpose stratum corneum was hydrated to various levels and used either for Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy or for cryo-scanning electron microscopy. The images were analyzed with respect to water localization and cell shape. The Fourier transform infrared spectra were measured to study the water-lipid interactions. The results show that water only slightly changes the lipid transitions in the stratum corneum even at a hydration level of 300% wt/wt compared to stratum corneum and that water is inhomogeneously distributed in the stratum corneum. No gradual increase in water level was observed in depth. At 57%-87% wt/wt water content the hydration level in the central part of stratum corneum is higher than in the superficial and deeper cell layers. Water domains are mainly present within the corneocytes and not in the intercellular regions. At a very high hydration level (300% wt/wt), the corneocytes are strongly swollen except for the deepest cell layers adjacent to the viable epidermis. The corneocytes in these layers are not swollen. At 300% wt/wt hydration level water domains are also present in intercellular regions. Between 17% wt/wt and 300% wt/wt the cell thickness increases linearly with the hydration level suggesting that swelling of cells mainly occurs in the direction perpendicular to the skin surface. At an increased hydration level, the corneocyte envelope more efficiently surrounds the cell content compensating for the increased cell volume. The changes in stratum corneum morphology with increasing water level have also been observed in dermatomed skin.