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1.
Int J Cosmet Sci ; 46(1): 106-118, 2024 Feb.
Article in English | MEDLINE | ID: mdl-37736006

ABSTRACT

OBJECTIVE: With the constant upgrading of healthcare concepts, silicone-free hair products have attracted more attention among consumers. In the present study, transparent silicone-free shampoo containing proteins was successfully fabricated by mixing mild non-sulphate surfactants, compound cationic conditioners, natural silicone oil substitutes, protein conditioners, thickeners, and other auxiliary ingredients. The effects of the type of surfactants, hair conditioners and thickeners, the type and content of proteins, and the mass ratio of compound proteins on the hair foaming performance, hair grooming performance, and penetration performance were investigated. METHODS: The basic formulation framework for transparent silicone-free shampoo was established at first. Then, various hydrolyzed proteins were further added to the basic formulation in the form of single use or compound use to prepare transparent silicone-free shampoo containing different proteins. The morphology of hair samples and penetration of protein in hair were evaluated with a scanning electron microscope and laser confocal fluorescence microscopy, respectively. And the hair grooming performance was also determined by a dynamic combing tester. RESULTS: The compound proteins of Croquat WKP PE-LQ-WD and Gluadin® Kera-PLM with mass ratios of 1:9 and 1:1 at 2 wt% total protein content added to the silicone-free shampoo brought a higher contact angle and a lower frictional coefficient than commercial silicone-free shampoo without proteins. In addition, the compound proteins also have the dual effect of adsorbing the hair surface and penetrating deep into the interior of the hair. CONCLUSION: The combination of cationic modified hydrolyzed protein (e.g., Croquat WKP PE-LQ-WD) and hydrolyzed protein with low molecular weight (e.g., Gluadin® Kera-P LM) at an appropriate mass ratio exhibited a strong synergistic effect on hair conditioning properties. It could provide a significant reference for developing silicone-free hair products with more benefits.


OBJECTIF: Avec l'amélioration constante des concepts de soins de santé, les produits capillaires sans silicone ont attiré l'attention des consommateurs. Dans la présente étude, un shampooing transparent sans silicone contenant des protéines a été fabriqué avec succès en mélangeant des tensioactifs doux sans sulfate, des conditionneurs cationiques composés, des substituts naturels de l'huile de silicone, des conditionneurs protéiques, des épaississants et d'autres ingrédients auxiliaires. On a étudié les effets du type de tensioactifs, de conditionneurs pour les cheveux et d'épaississants, du type et de la teneur en protéines et du rapport massique des protéines composées sur les performances de moussage des cheveux, du nettoyage des cheveux et de la pénétration. MÉTHODES: le cadre de formulation de base pour le shampooing transparent sans silicone a d'abord été établi. Ensuite, diverses protéines hydrolysées ont été ajoutées à la formulation de base sous forme d'utilisation unique ou d'utilisation de composés pour préparer un shampooing transparent sans silicone contenant différentes protéines. La morphologie des échantillons de cheveux et la pénétration des protéines dans les cheveux ont été évaluées à l'aide d'un microscope électronique a balayage et d'une microscopie confocale laser à fluorescence, respectivement. Les performances de nettoyage des cheveux ont également été déterminées par un testeur de peignage dynamique. RÉSULTATS: les protéines composées de Croquat WKP PE-LQ-WD et de GluadinR Kera-PLM avec des rapports massiques de 1:9 et 1:1 à 2 % en poids de teneur en protéines totales ajoutées au shampooing sans silicone ont un angle de contact plus élevé et un coefficient de frottement plus faible que le shampooing sans silicone commercial sans protéines. En outre, les protéines composées ont également doublé l'effet d'adsorption à la surface des cheveux et de pénétration à l'intérieur des cheveux. CONCLUSION: la combinaison de protéines hydrolysées modifiées cationiques (par exemple, Croquat WKP PE-LQ-WD) et de protéines hydrolysées de faible poids moléculaire (par exemple, GluadinR Kera-P LM) avec un rapport massique approprié a montré un fort effet synergique sur les propriétés de conditionnement des cheveux. Il pourrait fournir une référence significative pour le développement de produits capillaires sans silicone avec plus d'avantages.


Subject(s)
Dermatologic Agents , Hair Preparations , Silicones , Hair Preparations/pharmacology , Hair , Silicone Oils/pharmacology , Dermatologic Agents/pharmacology , Surface-Active Agents/pharmacology
2.
Arch Dermatol Res ; 315(8): 2271-2281, 2023 Oct.
Article in English | MEDLINE | ID: mdl-36961534

ABSTRACT

Sensitive skin is described as an unpleasant sensory response to a stimulus that should not cause a sensation. Sensitive skin affects an increasing proportion of the population. Sixty-seven participants who tested positive to lactic acid sting test were recruited and randomized into two groups to observe the clinical efficacy and safety of a new birch juice spray for repairing sensitive skin. One group used test spray A, while the other group used spray B as a control. Both groups were sprayed six times daily for 28 days. Noninvasive testing instruments were used to measure stratum corneum hydration, sebum content, transepidermal water loss rates, skin blood perfusion and current perception threshold before and after using spray. Facial images were captured by VISIA-CR, and the image analysis program (Image-Pro Plus) was used to analyze these to obtain the redness value of the facial skin. Moreover, lactic acid sting test scores and participants' self-assessments were also performed at baseline, week 2 and week 4. Both sprays A and B significantly decreased the lactic acid sting test score, transepidermal water loss rates, skin blood perfusion, and redness, while increasing the stratum corneum hydration. Compared to spray B, spray A increased sensory nerve thresholds at 5 Hz and decreased the transepidermal water loss rates, skin blood perfusion, and lactic acid sting test score. Sprays containing birch juice improved cutaneous biophysical properties in participants with sensitive skin.


Subject(s)
Betula , Skin , Humans , Erythema , Lactic Acid , Water
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