Hydroxypropyl-ß-Cyclodextrin-Based Helichrysum italicum Extracts: Antioxidant and Cosmeceutical Activity and Biocompatibility.

Two Helichrysum italicum extracts, OPT-1 (rich in phenolic acids) and OPT-2 (rich in total phenols and flavonoids), were prepared using hydroxypropyl-ß-cyclodextrin (HP-ß-CD)-assisted extraction. The prepared extracts were rich in phenolic compounds, including flavonoids and phenolic acids. GC-MS analysis of the extracts identified neryl acetate, neo-intermedeol, ß-selinene, γ-curcumene, italidione I, and nerol as the main volatile components of the extracts, as well as plant sterols, γ-sitosterol, campesterol, and stigmasterol. The antioxidant (DPPH radical scavenging, reducing power, and a carotene linoleic acid assay) and cosmeceutical (anti-hyaluronidase, anti-tyrosinase, anti-lipoxygenase, ovalbumin anti-coagulation, and a UV-absorption assay) activity of the extracts in most of the assays was better than the activity of the applied positive controls. Especially low were the IC50 values of the extracts in the anti-hyaluronidase (14.31 ± 0.29 µL extract/mL and 19.82 ± 1.53 µL extract/mL for OPT-1 and OPT-2, respectively) and the anti-lipoxygenase (0.96 ± 0.11 µL extract/mL and 1.07 ± 0.01 µL extract/mL for OPT-1 and OPT-2, respectively) assays. The extracts were non-toxic to HaCaT cells in concentrations of up to 62.5 µL extract/mL assuring their status as excellent candidates for cosmeceutical product development appropriate for direct use in cosmetic products without solvent evaporation.

Optimization of Cyclodextrin-Assisted Extraction of Phenolics from Helichrysum italicum for Preparation of Extracts with Anti-Elastase and Anti-Collagenase Properties.

Helichrysum italicum is a plant traditionally used for skin-related disorders that is becoming an increasingly popular ingredient in cosmetic products. In this work, a "green" ultrasound-assisted extraction method for H. italicum phenolics was developed using skin-friendly cyclodextrins (CDs). Extraction conditions needed for the greatest yield of target compounds (total phenolics, phenolic acids, and flavonoids) were calculated. The composition of the extracts was determined using LC-MS and spectrophotometric methods. Among the tested CDs, 2-hydroxylpropyl-beta-CD (HP-ß-CD) was the best suited for extraction of target phenolics and used to prepare two optimized extracts, OPT 1 (the extract with the highest phenolic acid content) and OPT 2 (the extract with the highest total phenol and flavonoid content). The extracts were prepared at 80 °C, using 0.089 g of plant material/g solvent (0.6 mmol of HP-ß-CD), with or without addition of 1.95% (w/w) lactic acid. The main metabolite in both extracts was 3,5-O-dicaffeoylquinic acid. It was found that the addition of lactic acid greatly contributes to the extraction of arzanol, a well-known anti-inflammatory agent. IC50 values of the anti-elastase (22.360 ± 0.125 µL extract/mL and 20.067 ± 0.975 for OPT-1 and OPT-2, respectively) and anti-collagenase (12.035 ± 1.029 µL extract/mL and 14.392 ± 0.705 µL extract/mL for OPT-1 and OPT-2, respectively) activities of the extracts surpassed those of the applied positive controls, namely ursolic and gallic acids. This activity deems the prepared extracts promising ingredients for natural cosmetics, appropriate for direct use in cosmetic products, removing the need for the evaporation of conventional solvents.

Extraction Optimization, Antioxidant, Cosmeceutical and Wound Healing Potential of Echinacea purpurea Glycerolic Extracts.

Echinacea purpurea is a plant with immunomodulating properties, often used in topical preparations for treatment of small superficial wounds. In the presented study, the best conditions for ultrasound-assisted extraction of caffeic acid derivatives (caftaric and cichoric acid) (TPA-opt extract), as well as the conditions best suited for preparation of the extract with high radical scavenging activity (RSA-opt extract), from E. purpurea aerial parts were determined. A Box-Behnken design based on glycerol content (%, w/w), temperature (°C), ultrasonication power (W) and time (min) as independent variables was performed. Antioxidant, antiaging and wound healing effects of the two prepared extracts were evaluated. The results demonstrate that glycerol extraction is a fast and efficient method for preparation of the extracts with excellent radical scavenging, Fe2+ chelating and antioxidant abilities. Furthermore, the extracts demonstrated notable collagenase, elastase and tyrosinase inhibitory activity, indicating their antiaging properties. Well-pronounced hyaluronidase-inhibitory activities, with IC50 values lower than 30 µL extract/mL, as well as the ability to promote scratch closure in HaCaT keratinocyte monolayers, even in concentrations as low as 2.5 µL extract/mL (for RSA-opt), demonstrate promising wound healing effects of E. purpurea. The fact that the investigated extracts were prepared using glycerol, a non-toxic and environmentally friendly solvent, widely used in cosmetics, makes them suitable for direct use in specialized cosmeceutical formulations.

Wound Healing Properties of Jasione montana Extracts and Their Main Secondary Metabolites.

The effects of different extracts obtained from Jasione montana L. (JM1-JM6) and their main metabolites on biological processes during wound healing were evaluated. The effect on wound closure in the scratch test was established, and collagen type I synthesis and anti-inflammatory effects were assessed by flow cytometry in a human dermal fibroblast model (PCS-201-012). Additionally, the antioxidant activity (DPPH and FRAP) and degree of inhibition of elastase participating in the proliferation processes of skin fibroblasts were determined in an in vitro model. The extracts and fractions were analyzed using high-performance liquid chromatography-photodiode array detection (HPLC-PDA) to quantitatively characterize their main polyphenolic compounds. The high antioxidant activity of the JM4-JM5 fractions correlated with the content of luteolin and its derivative 7-O-glucoside. Luteolin also showed the highest anti-elastase activity with an IC50 value of 39.93 ± 1.06 µg/mL, and its substantial content in the JM4 fraction presumably determines its activity (359.03 ± 1.65 µg/mL). At lower concentrations (<50 µg/mL) of all extracts, cell proliferation and migration were significantly stimulated after 24 h of treatment. The stimulation of cell migration was comparable with that of allantoin, which was used as a positive control. However, most of the tested extracts showed limited capacity to affect collagen type I biosynthesis. Moreover, the tested samples exhibited a complex effect on cytokine secretion, and the strongest anti-inflammatory activity through the moderation of IL-1ß, IL-6 and IL-8 was observed for JM4 and luteolin. Based on the obtained results of the quantitative analysis, the anti-inflammatory activity of JM4 may be due to the high content of luteolin. In summary, extracts from J. montana, which is flavonoid-rich, promote the viability and accelerate the migration of fibroblasts as well as moderate oxidant and inflammatory processes and elastase activity. Hence, they may be potentially useful for topical therapeutic applications to stimulate the wound healing process.

Optimization of Bioactive Phenolics Extraction and Cosmeceutical Activity of Eco-Friendly Polypropylene-Glycol-Lactic-Acid-Based Extracts of Olive Leaf.

Olive leaf is a rich source of phenolic compounds with numerous activities related to skin health and appearance. In this study, a green extraction method was developed using eco-friendly solvents: polypropylene glycol (PPG), lactic acid (LA), and water. The optimal extraction conditions were established, including solvent, extraction time, technique (magnetic stirrer vs. ultrasound-assisted extraction), and herbal material/solvent ratio. The composition of the solvent mixture was optimized using a mixture design. The content of phenolic compounds, including oleuropein and verbascoside, was determined using high-performance liquid chromatography (HPLC) and spectrophotometric methods. Using different extraction conditions, three extracts were prepared and their phytochemical compositions and antioxidant and skin-related bioactivities were investigated. The extracts were excellent inhibitors of elastase, collagenase, tyrosinase, and lipoxygenase. The best activity was shown by the extract richest in phenolics and prepared using magnetic-stirrer-assisted extraction for 20 min, with 0.8 g of herbal material extracted in 10 mL of PPG/LA/water mixture (28.6/63.6/7.8, w/w/w), closely followed by the extract prepared using the same extraction conditions but with 0.42 g of herbal material. The investigated PPG/LA/water mixtures contributed to the overall enzyme-inhibitory activity of the extracts. The prepared extracts were appropriate for direct use in cosmetic products, thus saving the time and energy consumption necessary for the evaporation of conventional solvents.

Glycerol and Natural Deep Eutectic Solvents Extraction for Preparation of Luteolin-Rich Jasione montana Extracts with Cosmeceutical Activity.

Jasione montana is a plant from the family Campanulaceae rich in phenols with health-beneficial properties such as luteolin (LUT) derivatives. In this work, a glycerol-based ultrasound-assisted extraction method was developed and optimized for in total phenol (TP) and LUT content, as well as antiradical activity (RSA). The best conditions (glycerol content, temperature, plant material weight, and ultrasonication power) for the preparation of J. montana extracts richest in TP (OPT-TP), LUT (OPT-LUT), and having the best RSA (OPT-RSA) were determined. Furthermore, numerous natural deep eutectic solvents (NADES), containing proline, glycerol, betaine, urea, and glucose were prepared and used for the extraction of J. montana. Contents of TP, LUT, and RSA in the prepared extracts were established. Antioxidant and cosmeceutical activity of the prepared extracts was tested. The OPT-TP, OPT-LUT, and OPT-RSA, as well as the most efficient NADES-based extract, PG-50-TP, were excellent antioxidants and Fe2+ ion chelators. In addition, they were potent inhibitors of collagenase and hyaluronidase, as well as good significant anti-elastase and -lipoxygenase activity. The observed antioxidant- and enzyme-inhibiting activity of J. montana extracts prepared using environmentally friendly methods and non-toxic solvents makes them promising ingredients of cosmeceutical products.

In Vitro Anticancer Potential of Jasione montana and Its Main Components against Human Amelanotic Melanoma Cells.

Jasione montana L. (Campanulaceae) is used in traditional Belarusian herbal medicine for sleep disorders in children, but the chemical composition and biological activity have not been investigated. In this study, the activities of J. montana extracts, their fractions and main compounds were evaluated in amelanotic melanoma C32 (CRL-1585) cells and normal fibroblasts (PCS-201-012). The extracts and fractions were analyzed using liquid chromatography-photodiode array detection-electrospray ionization-mass spectrometry (LC-PDA-ESI-MS/TOF) to characterize 25 compounds. Further, three major and known constituents, luteolin (22) and its derivatives such as 7-O-glucoside (12) and 7-O-sambubioside (9) were isolated and identified. The cytotoxic activities against fibroblasts and the amelanotic melanoma cell line were determined using the fixable viability stain (FVS) assay. The influence of diethyl ether (Et2O) fraction (JM4) and 22 on apoptosis induction was investigated using an annexin V binding assay. The obtained results showed significant cytotoxicity of JM4 and 22 with IC50 values of 119.7 ± 3.2 and 95.1 ± 7.2 µg/mL, respectively. The proapoptotic potential after 22 treatment in the C32 human amelanotic melanoma cell line was comparable to that of vinblastine sulfate (VLB), detecting 29.2 ± 3.0% apoptotic cells. Moreover, 22 displayed less necrotic potential against melanoma cells than VLB. In addition, the influences of JM4 and 22 on the dysfunction of the mitochondrial membrane potential (MMP), cell cycle and activity of caspases 3, 8, 9, and 10 were established. The effects of JM4 on MMP change (74.5 ± 3.0% of the cells showed a reduced MMP) corresponded to the results obtained from the annexin V binding assay and activation of caspase-9. JM4 and 22 displayed a significant impact on caspase-9 (40.9 ± 2.4% of the cells contained active caspase-9 after JM4 treatment and 16.6 ± 0.8% after incubation with 22) and the intrinsic (mitochondrial) apoptotic pathway. Moreover, studies have shown that JM4 and 22 affect the activation of external apoptosis pathways by inducing the caspase-8 and caspase-10 cascades. Thus, activation of caspase-3 and DNA damage via external and internal apoptotic pathways were observed after treatment with JM4 and 22. The obtained results suggest that J. montana extracts could be developed as new topical preparations with potential anticancer properties due to their promising cytotoxic and proapoptotic potential.

Optimization of Two Eco-Friendly Extractions of Black Medick (Medicago lupulina L.) Phenols and Their Antioxidant, Cosmeceutical, α-Glucosidase and α-Amylase Inhibitory Properties.

Medicago lupulina is an ancient edible plant from the Fabaceae family. In this work, two eco-friendly methods for extraction of bioactive phenolics from M. lupulina were developed using mixtures of water with two non-toxic, skin- and environmentally-friendly polyol solvents: glycerol and polypropylene glycol. Ultrasound-assisted extractions were optimized using a Box-Behnken design. The independent variables were the concentration of organic solvent in water (X1), extraction temperature (X2) and time (X3), while the response was phenolic content. The optimum conditions for extraction of polyphenols were (X1, X2, X3): (45%, 70 °C, 60 min) and (10%, 80 °C, 60 min) for glycerol and polypropylene glycol extraction, respectively. The extracts prepared at optimum conditions were rich in phenolic compounds, mainly derivatives of apigenin, kaempferol, luteolin, quercetin, caffeic and ferulic acid, as well as coumestrol. Their cosmeceutical and antidiabetic activity was tested. Both extracts demonstrated notable antioxidant, anti-lipoxygenase and anti-α-amylase activity. In addition to those activities, the glycerol extract efficiently inhibited protein coagulation, elastase and α-glucosidase activity. Glycerol present in the extract displayed enzyme-inhibiting activity in several assays and supported the action of the bioactive constituents. Thus, the optimized glycerol extract is a desirable candidate for direct incorporation in antidiabetic food supplements and cosmeceutical products.

Comparison of Maceration and Ultrasonication for Green Extraction of Phenolic Acids from Echinacea purpurea Aerial Parts.

Echinacea purpurea is used in herbal medicinal products for the prevention and treatment of the common cold, as well as for skin disorders and minor wounds. In this study, the efficiency of traditional maceration using water and ethanol was compared with the maceration using mixtures of water and glycerol, a non-toxic, biodegradable solvent from renewable sources. It was found that the glycerol-water mixtures were as effective as ethanol/water mixtures for the extraction of caffeic acid derivatives. All the prepared extracts demonstrated notable antiradical properties. Furthermore, an efficient ultrasound-assisted extraction using glycerol-water mixtures was developed using six independent variables. Their levels needed for the maximum extraction of caffeic acid derivatives were as follows: glycerol 90% (m/m), temperature 70 °C, ultrasound power 72 W, time 40 min, and ascorbic acid 0 mg/mL. Under the optimized conditions, ultrasound-assisted extraction was superior to maceration. It achieved significantly higher yields of phenolic acids in shorter extraction time. The presence of zinc in plant material may contribute to the beneficial effects of E. purpurea preparations. Since glycerol is a non-toxic solvent with humectant properties, the prepared extracts can be directly used for the preparation of cosmetics or oral pharmaceutical formulations without the need for solvent removal.

Recent Trends in the Application of Chromatographic Techniques in the Analysis of Luteolin and Its Derivatives.

Luteolin is a flavonoid often found in various medicinal plants that exhibits multiple biological effects such as antioxidant, anti-inflammatory and immunomodulatory activity. Commercially available medicinal plants and their preparations containing luteolin are often used in the treatment of hypertension, inflammatory diseases, and even cancer. However, to establish the quality of such preparations, appropriate analytical methods should be used. Therefore, the present paper provides the first comprehensive review of the current analytical methods that were developed and validated for the quantitative determination of luteolin and its C- and O-derivatives including orientin, isoorientin, luteolin 7-O-glucoside and others. It provides a systematic overview of chromatographic analytical techniques including thin layer chromatography (TLC), high performance thin layer chromatography (HPTLC), liquid chromatography (LC), high performance liquid chromatography (HPLC), gas chromatography (GC) and counter-current chromatography (CCC), as well as the conditions used in the determination of luteolin and its derivatives in plant material.

Glycerolic Licorice Extracts as Active Cosmeceutical Ingredients: Extraction Optimization, Chemical Characterization, and Biological Activity.

A green ultrasound-assisted extraction (UAE) method using glycerol/water mixtures for extraction of licorice (Glycyrrhiza glabra) bioactive constituents was developed in this study. The response surface method, according to the Box-Behnken design, was employed to optimize the extraction parameters: glycerol concentration (X1), temperature (X2), and the amount of herbal drug used in the production (X3). The responses were content of total phenols (TP), TP extraction efficiency (TPy) and the content of licorice characteristic constituents, glabridin (Gla) and isoliquiritigenin (Iso). Response surface analysis predicted the optimal extraction conditions for maximized amounts of TP, Tpy, Gla, and Iso. The extracts were prepared using the calculated conditions. The analysis of the selected constituents confirmed the validity of the model. Furthermore, biological activity of the extracts was tested. The results demonstrate that UAE using glycerol is a fast and efficient method for preparation of extracts with excellent radical scavenging, Fe2+ chelating and antioxidant activity. Furthermore, the observed notable tyrosinase and elastase inhibitory activity of the extracts, as well as their anti-inflammatory activity, indicate the anti-aging properties of the investigated extracts. The fact that the extracts were prepared using the safe, cosmetically active solvent, glycerol, makes them suitable for direct use in specialized cosmeceutical formulations.

Antidiabetic and Cosmeceutical Potential of Common Barbery (Berberis vulgaris L.) Root Bark Extracts Obtained by Optimization of 'Green' Ultrasound-Assisted Extraction.

Berberis vulgaris is rich in berberine, an isoquinoline alkaloid, with antidiabetic activity, often used topically for skin-related problems. The aim of this work was to develop a "green" method for berberine extraction using mixtures of water with glycerol, a non-toxic, environmentally-friendly solvent. Response surface methodology based on Box-Behnken design was used to optimize the experimental conditions for ultrasound-assisted extraction of berberine and anti-radical components from B. vulgaris root bark. The independent variables were temperature (X1), glycerol concentration (X2), and ultrasound power (X3), while the responses were berberine concentration and DPPH radical scavenging activity of the extracts (RSA IC50). The response values of the extracts prepared at optimum conditions were (response, X1, X2, X3): berberine yield (145.5 µg/mL; 80 °C, 50%, 144 W) and RSA IC50 (58.88 µL/mL; 80 °C, 30%, 720 W). The observed values deviated from the predicted values by -3.45% and 6.42% for berberine and RSA IC50, respectively, thus indicating the validity of the selected models. The prepared extracts demonstrated antioxidant, anti-melanogenic, and anti-inflammatory activity, as well excellent α-glucosidase and α-amylase inhibitory activity. The displayed biological properties and lack of glycerol toxicity makes the prepared extracts suitable for direct inclusion into antidiabetic and dermatologic food supplements and topical products.

Getting More Than You Paid For: Unauthorized "Natural" Substances in Herbal Food Supplements on EU Market.

As the population in the industrialized world develops preference for what is perceived as a natural and holistic way of disease treatment, the popularity and the number of food supplements on the market, including herbal ones, is experiencing an unprecedented rise. However, unlike herbal medicinal products, intended for treating or preventing disease, current legislation classifies food supplements as products intended for achieving nutritional or physiological effect and to supplement the normal diet. Accordingly, most food supplements are not to be associated with specific health claims. However, either due to the subtle suggestions by the producers or the wishful thinking of the consumers, certain pharmacological effects from food supplements are often expected. Medicinal plants included in food supplements usually do not produce dramatic and instant pharmacological effects. Therefore, in order to meet the expectation of their customers, some producers have turned to the illicit and dangerous practice of adulterating their products with synthetic adulterants, including naturally occurring molecules, having the desired activity. Such practice is prevalent in, although not limited to, food supplements intended for use as weight-loss aids, as well as for sport performance and libido enhancement. The review is focusing on naturally occurring alkaloids, phenylethanolamines, and their semi-synthetic derivatives in food supplements in the European Union as reported by the Rapid Alert System for Food and Feed. Their desired and undesired pharmacological effects, as well as the methods for their detection and quantification in food supplements, will be reviewed.

Cyclodextrin encapsulation of daidzein and genistein by grinding: implication on the glycosaminoglycan accumulation in mucopolysaccharidosis type II and III fibroblasts.

This work aimed to investigate the potential effect of cyclodextrin encapsulation on intrinsic ability of daidzein (DAD) and genistein (GEN) to inhibit the glycosaminoglycan (GAG) synthesis in fibroblasts originating from patients with mucopolysaccharidosis (MPS), type II and III. DAD or GEN encapsulation with either 2-hydroxypropyl-ß-cyclodextrin or sulphobuthylether-ß-cyclodextrin were achieved by neat grinding and were characterised by thermal analysis, X-ray powder diffraction, scanning electron microscopy and solubility testing which confirmed the complexes formation with increased solubility with respect to starting compounds. Both isoflavones, as well as their co-ground cyclodextrin complexes reduced GAG levels in the fibroblasts of MPS II and MPS III patients from 54.8-77.5%, in a dose dependent manner, without any significant cytotoxic effect. Cyclodextrin encapsulation did not change the intrinsically high effect of both DAD and GEN on the GAG level reduction in the treated cells, thus could be considered as a part of combination therapies of MPS.

Chemical Composition, Antioxidant and α-Glucosidase-Inhibiting Activities of the Aqueous and Hydroethanolic Extracts of Vaccinium myrtillus Leaves.

Vaccinium myrtillus (bilberry) leaf is traditionally used in southeastern Europe for the treatment of diabetes. In the present study, the ability of bilberry leaf extracts to inhibit carbohydrate-hydrolyzing enzymes and restore glutathione concentration in Hep G2 cells subjected to glucose-induced oxidative stress was investigated. A comprehensive analysis of the antioxidant activity of two bilberry leaf extracts was performed. The aqueous extract showed excellent total antioxidant and chelating activity. Its antioxidant activity in the ß-carotene-linoleic acid assay was very good, reaching the activity of the antioxidant standard BHA (93.4 ± 2.3% vs. 95.1 ± 2.4%, respectively). The hydroethanolic extract (ethanol/H2O, 8:2, v/v), on the other hand, was a better radical scavenger and Fe2+ reducing agent. Furthermore, the aqueous extract was able to efficiently increase glutathione concentration in Hep G2 cells subjected to glucose-induced oxidative stress and restore it to the levels observed in non-hyperglycaemic cells. The hydroethanolic extract strongly inhibited α-glucosidase, with the IC50 statistically equal to the antidiabetic drug acarbose (0.29 ± 0.02 mg/mL vs. 0.50 ± 0.01 mg/mL, respectively). Phytochemical analysis revealed the presence of quercetin and kaemferol derivatives, as well as chlorogenic and p-coumaric acid. The study results indicate that V. myrtillus leaf may have promising properties as a supporting therapy for diabetes.

4α-Methylated steroids with cytotoxic activity from the soft coral Litophyton mollis.

Seven new (1-3, 5 and 8-10) and three previously reported (4, 6 and 7) 4α-methylated steroids were isolated from the organic extract of the gorgonian Litophyton mollis. The structures and the relative configurations of the isolated natural products were determined on the basis of extensive analyses of their NMR and MS data. Metabolites 1 and 5-8 exhibited cytotoxic activity against K562 human chronic myelogenous leukemia cells with IC50 values below 10µM, while at the same time displaying low toxicity against healthy PBMCs.

Phytotherapy of alcoholism.

Alcoholism is a medical, social, and economic problem where treatment methods mostly include difficult and long-lasting psychotherapy and, in some cases, quite controversial pharmacological approaches. A number of medicinal plants and pure natural compounds are reported to have preventive and therapeutic effects on alcoholism and alcohol dependency, but their constituents, efficacy and mechanism of action are mostly unknown so far. Recently, kudzu [Pueraria lobata (Willd.) Ohwi], St. John's wort (Hypericum perforatum L.), danshen (Salvia miltiorrhiza Bge.), ginseng (Panax ginseng C.A. Mey.), Japanese raisin tree (Hovenia dulcis Thunb.), ibogaine (Tabernanthe iboga H. Bn.), evening primrose (Oenothera biennis L.), prickly pear fruit (Opuntia ficus indica (L.) Mill.), purple passionflower (Passiflora incarnata L.), thyme (Thymus vulgaris L.), fenugreek seed (Trigonella foenum-graecum L.), ginger (Zingiber officinale Roscoe) and many others drew the attention of researchers. Can, therefore, drugs of natural origin be helpful in the treatment of alcoholism or in decreasing alcohol consumption?