ABSTRACT
We report the results of an investigation on stratum corneum lipids, which present the main barrier of the skin. Molecular dynamics simulations, thermal analysis and FTIR measurements were applied. The primary objective of this work was to study the effect of cholesterol on skin structure and dynamics. Two molecular models were constructed, a free fatty acid bilayer (stearic acid, palmitic acid) and a fatty acid/cholesterol mixture at a 1:1 molar ratio. Our simulations were performed at constant pressure and temperature on a nanosecond time scale. The resulting model structures were characterized by calculating surface areas per headgroup, conformational properties, atom densities and order parameters of the fatty acids. Analysis of the simulations indicates that the free fatty acid fraction of stratum corneum lipids stays in a highly ordered crystalline state at skin temperatures. The phase behavior is strongly influenced when cholesterol is added. Cholesterol smoothes the rigid phases of the fatty acids: the order of the hydrocarbon tails (mainly of the last eight bonds) is reduced, the area per molecule becomes larger, the fraction of trans dihedrals is lower and the hydrophobic thickness is reduced. The simulation results are in good agreement with our experimental data from FTIR analysis and NIR-FT Raman spectroscopy.