Lactiplantibacillus plantarum OL5 biosurfactants as alternative to chemical surfactants for application in eco-friendly cosmetics and skincare products.

Cosmetics have been extremely popular throughout history and continue to be so today. Cosmetic and personal care products, including toothpaste, shampoo, lotions, and makeup, are typically made with petroleum-based surfactants. Currently, there is an increasing demand to enhance the sustainability of surface-active compounds in dermal formulations. Biosurfactants, derived from living cells, are considered more environmentally friendly than synthetic surfactants. Thus, the use of biosurfactants is a promising strategy for formulating more environmentally friendly and sustainable dermal products. Biosurfactants have the potential to replace chemical surface-active agents in the cosmetic sector due to their multifunctional qualities, such as foaming, emulsifying, and skin-moisturizing activities.In this study, two glycolipopeptide biosurfactants derived from Lactiplantibacillus plantarum OL5 were used as stabilizing factors in oil-in-water emulsions in the presence of coconut oils. Both biosurfactants increased emulsion stability, particularly in the 1:3 ratio, dispersion, and droplet size. Moreover, the cytotoxicity of the two Lactiplantibacillus plantarum biosurfactants was assessed on B lymphocytes and MCF-7 cells. Overall, the results gathered herein are very promising for the development of new green cosmetic formulations.

Antiaging effects of a skin care formulation containing nanoencapsulated antioxidants: A clinical, in vitro, and ex vivo study.

BACKGROUND: The development of effective cosmetic products for the reduction of the signs of skin aging is a complex process which requires an optimized combination of ingredients and specialized systems to deliver the actives to the skin layers. AIM: To evaluate the tolerance and antiaging clinical efficacy of a cosmetic formulation containing a blend of nanoencapsulated antioxidants: ascorbyl palmitate, resveratrol, tocopherol, caffeine, carnosine, and niacinamide. METHODS: Clinical efficacy was determined by subjective and instrumental analyses of collagen synthesis by fluorescence spectroscopy, by three-dimensional imaging analysis of suborbital edema, and by analysis of skin hydration and sebum content by biophysical techniques-Corneometer® and Sebumeter®. RESULTS: The studied formulation was safe and effective for the improvement of skin appearance by increasing collagen synthesis and skin moisturizing and by reducing facial blemishes, swelling, and oiliness. A preclinical exploratory approach using an experimental model of human cell and skin cultures agreed with the observed antiaging effects, identifying mechanisms related to the containment of oxidative stress, reduction of melanin production, increased synthesis of type I procollagen, and regulation of the epidermal cohesion protein filaggrin. CONCLUSIONS: The skin benefits obtained resulted from the combination of the ingredients in the formulation and the nanoencapsulation-based delivery system, which favors the solubility, safety, efficacy, and bioavailability of the preparation to the skin.

Synthesis of Planar-Type ZnO Powder in Non-Nano Scale Dimension and Its Application in Ultraviolet Protection Cosmetics.

ZnO is one of the most widely used inorganic sunscreens, owing to its fine particle size and UV light shielding capability. However, powders at nanosizes can be toxic and cause adverse effects. The development of non-nanosized particles has been slow. The present work investigated synthesis methods of non-nanosized ZnO particles for ultraviolet protection application. By altering the starting material, KOH concentration, and input speed, the ZnO particles can be obtained in different forms, including needle type, planar type, and vertical wall type. Cosmetic samples were made by mixing different ratios of synthesized powders. The physical properties and the UV blockage efficacy of different samples were evaluated using scanning electron microscopy (SEM), X-ray diffraction (XRD), particle size analyzer (PSA), and ultraviolet/visible (UV/Vis) spectrometer. The samples with 1:1 ratio of needle-type ZnO and vertical wall-type ZnO exhibited superior light blocking effect owing to improved dispersibility and prevention of particle agglomeration. The 1:1 mixed sample also complied with the European nanomaterials regulation due to the absence of nanosized particles. With superior UV protection in the UVA and UVB regions, the 1:1 mixed powder showed potential to be used as a main ingredient in UV protection cosmetics.

In Vivo Skin Hydrating Efficacy of Fish Collagen from Greenland Halibut as a High-Value Active Ingredient for Cosmetic Applications.

The industrial processing of fish for food purposes also generates a considerable number of by-products such as viscera, bones, scales, and skin. From a value-added perspective, fish by-products can act also as raw materials, especially because of their collagen content (particularly in fish skin). Interestingly, the potential of marine collagen for cosmetic applications is enormous and, remarkably, the extraction of this protein from fish skins has been established for different species. Using this approach, we investigated the integration of marine collagen (COLRp_I) extracted from the skin of the Greenland halibut as an active ingredient in a cosmetic hydrogel formulation. In this study, extracts of marine collagen at concentrations up to 10 mg/mL showed a non-cytotoxic effect when cultured with fibroblast cells for 3 days. In addition, marine collagen extract, when incorporated into a cosmetic hydrogel formulation, met criterion A of ISO 11930:2019 regarding the efficacy of the preservative system (challenge test). In addition, the cosmetic formulations based on marine collagen at dosages of 0.1, 0.25 and 0.5% were tested in a clinical study on the skin of the forearms of 23 healthy volunteers, showing a sightly hydration effect, suggesting its potential for beauty applications. Moreover, this work illustrates that the circular economy concept applied to the fish processing industry can represent important benefits, at innovation, environmental and economic levels.

Content and stability of B complex vitamins in commercial cosmetic products.

BACKGROUND: Individual B vitamins have many favorable effects on the skin and are common cosmetic ingredients. However, their formulation is demanding due to stability issues, which consequently affect the products' quality. AIMS: We aimed to determine the quality (labeling accuracy, content determination, and content-related quality control) and stability under long-term and accelerated storage conditions of a representative sample of commercial cosmetics containing the most common B vitamins - nicotinamide, dexpanthenol, pyridoxine, and cyanocobalamin. METHODS: Cyanocobalamin was determined by a previously published stability-indicating HPLC- diode array detector (DAD) method for the simultaneous determination of all hydrophilic vitamins. This method was additionally simplified and adjusted for the time-effective analysis of nicotinamide, dexpanthenol, and pyridoxine. Both methods were properly validated. RESULTS: All labeled B vitamins were present in the 36 tested products, mostly in contents, reported effective on the skin. Thus, a straightforward correlation between vitamin contents and product prices were not observed. The content-related quality control of eight products, which quantitively specify their content, revealed significantly lower nicotinamide contents (47% and 57%) in two products and appropriate or higher nicotinamide (102%-112%) and dexpanthenol (100%-104%) contents than declared in the remaining products. The 6-month long-term and accelerated stability studies demonstrated the products' physical stability, but also revealed dexpanthenol, pyridoxine, and cyanocobalamin degradation, while nicotinamide was mostly stable in the tested products. CONCLUSIONS: The obtained results provide an inside into the quality of commercial vitamin B cosmetics and highlight the importance of stability testing in the formulation of quality, efficient, and safe cosmetics.

Protection of hair from damage induced by ultraviolet irradiation using tea (Camellia sinensis) extracts.

BACKGROUND: Damage to hair by UV is relevant to most people, and for many, it is a major source of hair damage. Prevention of UV damage is of high interest to cosmetic companies. OBJECTIVES: Describe UV damage mechanisms and link these mechanisms to measurable changes in hair protein composition and color changes resulting from breakdown of yellow-colored kynurenines. Test the power of botanical antioxidants, specifically Camellia sinensis (tea) extracts to prevent this protein damage and color change. Link specific phytochemistry of extract samples to hair performance. METHODS: Camellia sinensis (tea) extracts were analyzed by LC-MS to identify the key composition chemistries. ORAC (Oxygen Radical Antioxidant Capacity) was used to measure ability of the extract to react with a peroxyl radical via a hydrogen abstraction mechanism. Hair protein structural damage was measured by quantification of a biomarker peptide that is specific to UV-induced damage and hair color changes were measured with a spectrophotometer. RESULTS: Levels of key phytochemistry in the extracts, specifically the catechins, correlated with prevention of UV-induced protein damage and prevention of color changes due to kynurenine breakdown. Extracts with higher phytochemistry levels also had higher ORAC scores indicating that they were more effective antioxidants. CONCLUSIONS: Camellia sinensis (tea) extracts can be used as effective protective treatments for hair protection but this efficacy is linked to extract concentrations of key chemistries (catechins).

Hydrolipidic Characteristics and Clinical Efficacy of a Dermocosmetic Formulation for the Improvement of Homeostasis on Oily Mature Skin.

BACKGROUND: Although the scientific literature associates mature skin with dry skin and the secretion of sebum on the face decreases over the years, in tropical countries, such as Brazil, mature skin can still present oily characteristics. Thus, the knowledge of the hydrophilic characteristics of mature skin is fundamental to help the development of more effective treatments for this skin type. In this context, the study aimed to evaluate the hydrophilic characteristics and the clinical efficacy of a cosmetic formulation for mature skin added with alfalfa and lentil extracts by using biophysical and skin imaging techniques. METHODS: Twenty-eight healthy females aged between 45 and 59 years were enrolled. Measurements of the stratum corneum water content, sebum content, transepidermal water loss, skin microrelief, and pores count were performed before and after the 28-day formulation application. RESULTS: The mature skin presented as oily with wrinkles and pores. The proposed formulation significantly reduced the sebum content and the number of fine and large pores and improved skin microrelief and hydration after a 28-day period of the application when compared to the vehicle. CONCLUSIONS: The proposed formulation was effective in oily mature skin treatment, improving its general skin aging and oiliness conditions, and reducing pores count in just 28 days.

Improvement of Skin Permeation of Caffeine, a Hydrophilic Drug, by the Application of Water Droplets Provided by a Novel Humidifier Device.

Recently, a novel humidifier that sprays water fine droplets equipped with a copolymer, poly(3,4-ethylene dioxythiophene)-poly(styrene sulfonate) (PEDOT/PSS) was developed. PEDOT/PSS in the humidifier absorbs water from the environment and releases fine water droplets by heating. In the present study, the effect of hydration on the skin barrier, stratum corneum, was first determined by the application of fine water droplets using the humidifier. The skin-penetration enhancement effect of a model hydrophilic drug, caffeine, was also investigated using the humidifier and compared with a conventional water-evaporative humidifier. More prolonged skin hydration effect was observed after application of the fine water droplet release humidifier using PEDOT/PSS than that using a conventional humidifier. In addition, markedly higher skin permeation of caffeine was observed in both infinite and finite dose conditions. Furthermore, higher skin permeation of caffeine from oil/water emulsion containing caffeine was observed in finite dose conditions by pretreatment with the humidifier using PEDOT/PSS. This device can provide water droplets without replenishing water, so it is more convenient for enhancing the skin permeation of chemical compounds from topical drugs and cosmetic formulations.

Comprehensive characterization of the structure and properties of human stratum corneum relating to barrier function and skin hydration: modulation by a moisturizer formulation.

The stratum corneum (SC) is key in the maintenance of the biomechanical barrier and hydration of skin. Our previous investigations showed beneficial effects of a combination of emollients on water capture and retention and protein and lipid organization, all of which are linked to dryness and dry skin damage. Here, we show how a formulation containing an emollient combination ("Trio") and its basal formulation (placebo) impacted the descriptors of SC hydration in SC layers. Only the Trio formulation-not its placebo formulation-modified SC biomechanical drying stress behaviour and imparted a high capacity to protect it from dehydration. This was in accordance with findings at the molecular level using Raman analyses and at the structural level using cryo-scanning electron microscopy (SEM). After topical application, only the Trio formulation profoundly increased lateral packing of lipids and their compactness. Cryo-SEM showed that, unlike the placebo formulation, the Trio formulation prevented the water loss when applied before the dehydration process. In conclusion, these studies demonstrate that stresses in the SC due to dehydration can be alleviated using a formulation containing emollients that interact with the SC lipid components.

Blue light protection, part II-Ingredients and performance testing methods.

BACKGROUND: There are numerous cosmetic ingredients that have been identified to have blue light protection benefits. The urge to learn more about blue light protection claims has led to several substantiation test methods that can be utilized by companies to prove product efficacy. AIMS: Part II of this article provides up-to-date information on cosmetic ingredients that can provide protection from blue light, and methods companies can use to substantiate blue light protection claims. METHODS: An Internet search was completed using the Google Scholar database and a cosmetic ingredient supplier database (UL Prospector) for ingredients and relevant literature. RESULTS: Multiple ingredient categories, for example, algae-derived ingredients, UV filters, botanical extracts, antioxidants, and vitamins, are available on the market to fight against blue light-induced skin damage. There is not a formal standardized method to test for blue light protection; however, spectrophotometers, imaging devices, measuring oxidative stress, and visual evaluations are some of the methods being used today. CONCLUSIONS: The number of ingredients launched for blue light protection and new methods developed to test products for blue light protection claims is expected to increase in the near future as we are learning more about the mechanism of damage that occurs in the skin upon blue light exposure.

Blue Light Protection, Part I-Effects of blue light on the skin.

BACKGROUND: Blue light is emitted visible light between the wavelengths of 400 to 500 nm. The main source of blue light is sunlight, but digital screens, light-emitting diodes (LEDs), and fluorescent lighting serve as additional sources. Concerns about the negative effects of blue light on the skin have rapidly increased over the past 15 years, and consequently, the urge to learn more about this topic is increasing as well. AIMS: Part I of this article provides up-to-date information on the definition of blue light and the negative and positive effects of blue light on the skin. METHODS: An Internet search was completed using the Google scholar database for relevant literature. RESULTS: Blue light can be both harmful and beneficial to the skin, depending on intensity and wavelength. Short-term safety information is more readily available from clinical studies; however, the biological effects of repeated and/or longer-term exposure are not fully understood yet. CONCLUSIONS: Low-energy and low exposure times to high-energy blue light can help prevent skin diseases, while studies have revealed that longer exposure to high-energy blue light can increase the amount of DNA damage, cell and tissue death, and injury, eye damage, skin barrier damage, and photoaging.

Retinoid stability and degradation kinetics in commercial cosmetic products.

BACKGROUND: Retinoids as dermatological agents are effective against acne, psoriasis, skin aging, and other skin conditions. However, their susceptibility to degradation is a limiting factor for their widespread use. OBJECTIVES: Within this study, we aimed to provide comprehensive and evidence-based information on retinoid stability and degradation kinetics in commercial cosmetics, focusing on different factors affecting their stability. METHODS: A validated HPLC-UV methodology was utilized for determination of the most common retinoids in cosmetics (retinol, retinyl palmitate, ß-carotene) and a newer promising retinoid (hydroxypinacolone retinoate). The stability of 16 retinoid derivatives in 12 commercial cosmetics was evaluated within 6 months of long-term and accelerated stability testing in addition to a one-week photostability study. Retinoid degradation in the tested formulations followed first-order kinetics, which was further applied to shelf-life prediction. RESULTS: Long-term and accelerated stability testing revealed retinoid instabilities in almost all products, resulting in a 0%-80% decline after 6 months at 25°C and a 40%-100% decline at 40°C, which were kinetically evaluated. Light degradation was more pronounced than temperature-induced degradation. Among the studied retinoids, the stability of the newer hydroxypinacolone retinoate was the most prominent. This study also identifies correlations between retinoid concentrations, price, formulation, and their stability in cosmetics. CONCLUSIONS: Retinoid instabilities were formulation-dependent and associated with lower contents than declared in some cosmetics. Retinoid chemical stability and physical stability in topical formulations need to be evaluated by real-time stability studies, instead of the more frequently used accelerated stability studies.

Safety Evaluation of TiO2 Nanoparticle-Based Sunscreen UV Filters on the Development and the Immunological State of the Sea Urchin Paracentrotus lividus.

Sunscreens are emulsions of water and oil that contain filters capable of protecting against the detrimental effects of ultraviolet radiation (UV). The widespread use of cosmetic products based on nanoparticulate UV filters has increased concerns regarding their safety and compatibility with both the environment and human health. In the present work, we evaluated the effects of titanium dioxide nanoparticle (TiO2 NP)-based UV filters with three different surface coatings on the development and immunity of the sea urchin, Paracentrotus lividus. A wide range of NP concentrations was analyzed, corresponding to different levels of dilution starting from the original cosmetic dispersion. Variations in surface coating, concentration, particle shape, and pre-dispersant medium (i.e., water or oil) influenced the embryonic development without producing a relevant developmental impairment. The most common embryonic abnormalities were related to the skeletal growth and the presence of a few cells, which were presumably involved in the particle uptake. Adult P. lividus immune cells exposed to silica-coated TiO2 NP-based filters showed a broad metabolic plasticity based on the biosynthesis of metabolites that mediate inflammation, phagocytosis, and antioxidant response. The results presented here highlight the biosafety of the TiO2 NP-based UV filters toward sea urchin, and the importance of developing safer-by-design sunscreens.

Design of sustainable lip gloss formulation with biosurfactants and silica particles.

OBJECTIVE: The main objective of this study was to design a sustainable lip gloss from water-in-oil emulsions by understanding the rheology of combining biosurfactants (rhamnolipids and sophorolipids) with silica particles (Aerosil powders). The different parameters consisted of the silica particle diameter size, the concentration of the particles within the formulation, alongside the different types of biosurfactant and oils used. The experimental results could provide information on the formulation design of cosmetic emulsions such as lip products and foundations. METHODS: One parameter was varied each time, while the rest were kept constant in order to determine their effect on the viscosity profile of the formulations. A traditional mechanical rheometer was used in order to measure the bulk viscosity profiles of the different formulations, over a wide range of shear stress applied. RESULTS: The larger silica particle diameter size indicated an increase in the viscosity of the formulations, as yield stress was also generated for the specific diameter of 14 nm. It was also found that as the particle concentration increased, the viscosity increased as well. Rhamnolipids and sophorolipids indicated very similar behaviour, meaning that the biosurfactant acts as an emulsifier and does not impact the system's rheological behaviour. The replacement of silicone oil with other natural oils was only successful with canola, and castor oil, since jojoba, squalene and mineral oil were not stabilized. CONCLUSION: The lip gloss was designed by water-in-oil emulsions which were stabilized by biosurfactants and the rheology of the oil phase was enhanced by silica particles. The formulation rheology gave a stable emulsion, the shear-thinning effect ensured easy applicability, whereas the viscosity and elasticity provided nice hold on the lips.

OBJECTIF: L'objectif principal de cette étude était de concevoir un brillant à lèvres durable à partir d'émulsions eau-dans-huile en comprenant la rhéologie de la combinaison de biosurfactants (rhamnolipides et sophorolipides) avec des particules de silice (poudres Aerosil). Les différents paramètres comprenaient la taille du diamètre des particules de silice, la concentration des particules dans la formulation, ainsi que les différents types de biosurfactants et d'huiles utilisés. Les résultats expérimentaux pourraient fournir des informations sur la conception de la formulation d'émulsions cosmétiques telles que les produits pour les lèvres, les fonds de teint, etc. MÉTHODES: Un paramètre a été modifié à chaque fois, tandis que les autres ont été maintenus constants afin de déterminer leur effet sur le profil de viscosité des formulations. Un rhéomètre mécanique traditionnel a été utilisé afin de mesurer les profils de viscosité en vrac des différentes formulations, sur une large gamme de contraintes de cisaillement appliquées. RÉSULTATS: La plus grande taille de diamètre des particules de silice a provoqué une augmentation de la viscosité des formulations, car une limite élastique a également été générée pour le diamètre spécifique de 14 nm. Il a également été constaté que lorsque la concentration des particules augmentait, la viscosité augmentait également. Les rhamnolipides et les sophorolipides ont montré un comportement très similaire, ce qui signifie que le biosurfactant agit comme un émulsifiant et n'a pas d'impact sur le comportement rhéologique du système. Le remplacement de l'huile de silicone par d'autres huiles naturelles n'a réussi qu'avec le canola et l'huile de ricin, car le jojoba, le squalène et l'huile minérale n'étaient pas stabilisés. CONCLUSION: Le brillant à lèvres a été conçu par des émulsions eau dans l'huile qui ont été stabilisées par des biosurfactants et la rhéologie de la phase huileuse a été améliorée par des particules de silice. La rhéologie de la formulation a donné une émulsion stable, l'effet d'amincissement par cisaillement a assuré une applicabilité facile, tandis que la viscosité et l'élasticité ont fourni une bonne tenue sur les lèvres.

Inhibitory effects of shell of Camellia oleifera Abel extract on mushroom tyrosinase and human skin melanin.

BACKGROUND: As an oil production byproducts, the shell of Camellia oleifera Abel (SC) is usually discarded in the dump. However, previous investigations suggested that the SC could provide valuable bioactive materials. OBJECTIVE: The objectives of this study were to examine the ability of SC extract to inhibit in vitro tyrosinase activity and the melanin inhibition effects of cosmetic formulations containing SC 1,3-butanediol extract in human volunteers. METHODS: The cell viability was determined using a WTT assay. A mushroom tyrosinase was used to evaluate the anti-tyrosinase activity of the SC extract. The placebo (no extract) or test (SC 1,3-butanediol extract) or positive control (kojic acid) cosmetic cream was applied on face of volunteers(30 female subjects) three times a day for 8 weeks. The active compounds in SC extract were screened using liquid chromatography-high-resolution mass spectrometry (UHPLC-QTOF). RESULTS: The result showed that the cytotoxicity of SC extract is insignificant when the concentration of SC extract is below 160 µg/mL. In addition, SC extract dose dependently inhibited tyrosinase activity and SC 1,3-butanediol extract possessed a stronger inhibitory activity than methanol extract and water extract. Clinical evaluations revealed that facial melanin levels of the volunteers receiving cosmetic formulations (containing SC 1,3-butanediol extract) were decreased 59% from baseline in 6th weeks, whereas the placebo group showed no effect. SC 1,3-butanediol extract was detected to contain 12 kaempferol compounds, significantly, kaempferol 3-O-[α-rhamnopyranosyl-(1→6)-ß-glucopyranoside] and kaempferol-3,7-O-α-L-dirhamnoside are the major compounds. CONCLUSION: These results indicate that SC extract can be used as a natural skin-whitening agent in cosmetic products.

Assessment of the moisturizing properties of a magnetic mask containing iron oxide particles.

BACKGROUND: Moisturizer is an important component of many cosmetic products. It helps to maintain the skin's integrity and its barrier functions. Recently, magnetic masks that seek to improve the properties of the skin have been developed and have become a new cosmetic trend. However, scientific proof of their stated properties is lacking. AIMS: To test whether iron oxide contained in a face mask with magnetic properties in an oily matrix with a freeze-dried aloe-vera base increases moisturization of the skin and improves skin barrier function. METHODS: Formulations were prepared containing an oil phase (67.3% wt.) and a solid phase (32.7% wt.). The moisturizing properties of the mask were tested by measuring in vivo electrochemical impedance spectroscopy, contact angle, and visual appearance. Meanwhile, human panel tests were performed to evaluate the sensory perception of potential users. RESULTS: The moisturizing effect of the iron oxide mask is clearly superior to that of the other tested samples. Water retention and low transepidermal water loss (TEWL) were evidenced for the iron oxide magnetic mask. Its occlusive action on the skin resulted in larger water contact angles and enhances the barrier effect. A favorable sensory perception on the part of the users was obtained for the iron oxide magnetic mask. CONCLUSION: The presence of iron oxide and the magnetic property of the mask enhance occlusive behavior, diminishing the TEWL. Sensory analysis of the iron oxide magnetic mask performed by human panel tests shows that they possess characteristics including neutral odor, and easy, pleasant-feeling application.

Strawberry-Based Cosmetic Formulations Protect Human Dermal Fibroblasts against UVA-Induced Damage.

Extreme exposure of skin to Ultraviolet A (UVA)-radiation may induce a dysregulated production of reactive oxygen species (ROS) which can interact with cellular biomolecules leading to oxidative stress, inflammation, DNA damage, and alteration of cellular molecular pathways, responsible for skin photoaging, hyperplasia, erythema, and cancer. For these reasons, the use of dietary natural bioactive compounds with remarkable antioxidant activity could be a strategic tool to counteract these UVA-radiation-caused deleterious effects. Thus, the purpose of the present work was to test the efficacy of strawberry (50 µg/mL)-based formulations supplemented with Coenzyme Q10 (100 µg/mL) and sun protection factor 10 in human dermal fibroblasts irradiated with UVA-radiation. The apoptosis rate, the amount of intracellular reactive oxygen species (ROS) production, the expression of proteins involved in antioxidant and inflammatory response, and mitochondrial functionality were evaluated. The results showed that the synergic topical use of strawberry and Coenzyme Q10 provided a significant (p < 0.05) photoprotective effect, reducing cell death and ROS, increasing antioxidant defense, lowering inflammatory markers, and improving mitochondrial functionality. The obtained results suggest the use of strawberry-based formulations as an innovative, natural, and useful tool for the prevention of UVA exposure-induced skin diseases in order to decrease or substitute the amount of synthetic sunscreen agents.

The cosmetic and dermatological potential of keratin hydrolysate.

BACKGROUND: Although keratin hydrolysates have become established as standard components in hair and nail cosmetics, studies on the moisturizing effects of keratin hydrolysates do not appear among contemporary literature. OBJECTIVES: To test if adding keratin hydrolysate into an ointment base increases hydration of the skin and improves skin barrier function, or diminishes trans-epidermal water loss. METHODS: Formulations were prepared containing 2%, 4%, and 6% keratin hydrolysates (based on weight of the ointment base). The moisturizing properties of keratin hydrolysates were tested by measuring skin hydration, trans-epidermal water loss and skin pH; measurements were carried out at intervals of 1, 2, 3, 4, 24, and 48 h. Testing was conducted on 10 women. RESULTS: As regards hydration, adding 2% keratin hydrolysate to the ointment base is optimal, as an increase of 14%-23% occurs in hydration of the stratum corneum. For trans-epidermal water loss, adding 4% KH to the ointment base is preferential, as this triggers a 26%-46% decrease in trans-epidermal water loss. CONCLUSIONS: Keratin hydrolysate acts as a humectant (it binds water from lower layers of the epidermis to the stratum corneum) as well as an occlusive (it reduces trans-epidermal water loss). The highly favorable properties of keratin hydrolysates are attributed to the wide distribution of keratin hydrolysates molecular weights; low-molecular weight fractions easily penetrate the SC, while high-molecular weight fractions form a protective film on the epidermis. Adding keratin hydrolysates to the ointment base did not cause phase separation even after 6 mo storage.

Valorization of antioxidants extracted from olive mill wastewater.

Antioxidants are highly important gradients used to preserve cosmetic products and reduce the effect of oxidative stress on the skin. The present work explores the possibility of using phenolic compounds of olive mill wastewater (OMW) as effective alternatives to the commercial antioxidants used in cosmetic formulations deemed by their allergic and carcinogenic effects. Esterification of tyrosol and hydroxytyrosol extracted from OMW with various fatty acids was conducted using Novozyme 435 lipase as a biocatalyst. Upon synthesis, butyrate, caprate, laurate, and palmitate tyrosyl and hydroxytyrosyl esters were isolated and evaluated for their antioxidant and antibacterial activities. Results showed that laurate derivatives are the most efficient in preventing lipid oxidation and inhibiting growth of pathogenic strains. In the prospective of industrial use, laurate tyrosyl and hydroxytyrosyl derivatives were incorporated in a formulation of moisturizer to substitute the commercial antioxidant butylated hydroxyltoluene. Oleuropein, extracted from olive leaves powder, was also tested as an antiaging ingredient in cosmetic formulations. The evaluation of physicochemical, microbiological, and sensorial properties of the new cosmetic products indicated that oleuropein and lipophilic derivatives do not affect the properties of the standard formulation. Oleuropein and lipophilic derivatives can be added as active ingredients to stabilize cosmetic preparations.

The assessment of the effect of a cosmetic product brightening the skin of people with discolorations of different etiology.

BACKGROUND: Hyperpigmentations are disorders displayed with a change in the color of the skin, its strange shape, the lack of symmetry, and irregular placement. They appear no matter on the age, gender, and often as a congenital defect. Disorder connected with overproduction of melanin by pigmentary cells. The change of color is due to endogenous and exogenous cause. OBJECTIVES: The aim of this thesis was to conduct a research in vivo. This will allow to judge the effectiveness of the cosmetic product which brightens the skin with hyperpigmentation problems. The characteristics of dermocosmetics were tested on people with various etiology of hyperpigmentation. The aim of the research was to assess the effect of the active substances used daily on skin hyperpigmentation. METHODS: The tests were carried out on groups of patients with hyperpigmentations. The application of the pharmaceutical and the use of specific apparatus measurements were taken on every medical checkup. A survey was conducted to assess the changes in the face, neck, and neckline skin. The research was based on the apparatus analysis of the skin condition (MPA® , VISIA® ). RESULTS: Regular application of the pharmaceutical caused brightening of hyperpigmentations (P < 0.05). General improvement in skin condition was also observed - the increase in skin elasticity, smoothness, and the enhancement of hydration levels. CONCLUSIONS: Dermocosmetics for people with hyperpigmentation are an essential part of their medical treatment. In case of epidermal hyperpigmentation, the recipe of individually chosen and tested combination of ingredients enables us to reach satisfactory results.