Evaluation of eye irritation potential of experimental cosmetic formulations containing glycolic acid, salicylic acid and ethanol using the Bovine Corneal Opacity and Permeability Assay.

OBJECTIVE: Prototype cosmetic formulations containing short-chain acids and alcohols intended to be applied in the proximity of the eyes are sometimes evaluated for ocular irritation potential using the validated Bovine Corneal Opacity and Permeability Assay (OECD TG 437). We evaluated the eye irritation potential of nine experimental cosmetic formulations designed and prepared by Avon Global Reserach and Development to differ only in the concentrations of Ethanol, Glycolic Acid and Salicylic Acid. METHODS: We analysed the data generated using the BCOP assay. The opacity and permeability values obtained following the exposure of bovine corneas to experimental cosmetic formulations were combined into a single In Vitro Irritancy Score used to rank eye irritation potential. Histopathological examination of treated corneas was used to provide additional information about the depth and degree of the injury and to support the prediction of eye irritation potential of each experimental cosmetic formulation. RESULTS: The In Vitro Irritancy Scores and histopathological analysis showed that experimental formulations containing only Ethanol, Glycolic Acid, or Salicylic Acid alone had, at most, a mild ocular irritation potential. The experimental formulations containing both Ethanol and Glycolic Acid had a mild ocular irritation potential, while the experimental formulations containing both Ethanol and Salicylic Acid had a moderate ocular irritation potential. Severe ocular irritation potential was induced by an experimental formulation containing a combination of Glycolic Acid and Salicylic Acid and it was further accentuated by the addition of Ethanol to the formulation. Our data indicate a possible synergistic effect on eye irritation potential of Ethanol, Glycolic Acid and Salicylic Acid in at least some experimental cosmetic formulations. Further, our results provide insight on an apparent concentration-dependent ocular irritation potential effect of combinations of Glycolic Acid, Salicylic Acid and Ethanol in at least one experimental cosmetic formulation. CONCLUSIONS: The results presented herein emphasise the need to consider in vitro testing of prototype cosmetic formulations containing combinations of Ethanol, Glycolic Acid and Salicylic Acid rather than relying on any predicted additive effect on ocular irritation based solely on previously generated results of similar formulations containing Ethanol, Glycolic Acid or Salicylic Acid alone. Further work is required to understand the significance of these observations and to elucidate the mechanisms responsible for the apparent synergistic effects of Glycolic Acid, Salicylic Acid and Ethanol and eye irritation potential suggested by our results.

Sens-ocular model: Cell-based assay to evaluate eye stinging potential of chemicals and baby cosmetic formulations.

The TRPV1 receptor, which is known to contribute significantly to pain perception, has recently been identified as a useful tool for predicting eye stinging potential in cosmetics. In this study, HEK-293 cells with high TRPV1 expression were utilized to evaluate calcium influx related to receptor activation triggered by chemicals and cosmetic formulations. The cells were exposed to increasing concentrations of substances to cause or not some aggression to the eye, and TRPV1 activity was assessed by measuring intracellular FURA-2 AM fluorescence signal. To confirm TRPV1 channel activation, capsazepine, a capsaicin antagonist, was employed in addition to using capsaicin as a positive control. The study's results indicate that this novel model can identify compounds known to cause some aggression to the eye, such as stinging, considering a cut-off value of 60% of Ca2+ influx exposed to the lowest evaluated concentration (0.00032%). When applied to the cosmetic baby formulation, although the presented model exhibited higher sensitivity by classifying as stinging formulations that had previously undergone clinical testing and were deemed non-stinging, the assay could serve as a valuable in vitro tool for predicting human eye stinging sensation and can be used as a tier 1 in an integrated testing strategy.

Nanocosmetics and Skin Health: A Comprehensive Review of Nanomaterials in Cosmetic Formulations.

The development of nanocosmetics nanotechnology has ushered in a new age in cosmetic research, completely changing the skincare scene. This abstract investigates the relationship between skincare and nanotechnology, particularly emphasizing the effects of nanocosmetics on skin health. Cosmetics, known as "nanocosmetics," use materials at the nanoscale, typically between 1 and 100 nanometers, to improve the effectiveness and delivery of active chemicals. Nanotechnology in cosmetics allows for the development of sophisticated delivery methods that provide enhanced stability and tailored distribution, including nanoemulsions and nanocapsules. This breakthrough overcomes the constraints of conventional formulations by enabling the entry of active ingredients into the skin's deeper layers. Studies investigating nanocosmetics and skin health were included. This encompassed in vitro studies, animal models, and clinical studies of various designs. Exclusion criteria included studies focusing solely on nanotechnology unrelated to skin health or nanocosmetics and review articles editorials, commentaries, and conference abstracts. Nanocosmetics is a groundbreaking development in skincare that provides creative answers to a range of skin issues. As the area develops, realizing the full potential of nanotechnology in fostering ideal skin health will need sustained research and adherence to safety regulations.

Evaluation of Physicochemical and Microbial Properties of Extracts from Wine Lees Waste of Matelica's Verdicchio and Their Applications in Novel Cosmetic Products.

Wine lees are sediments deposited on the walls and bottom of barrels resulting from wine fermentation and mainly consist of yeasts. Saccharomyces cerevisiae extracts, rich in beneficial components for the skin, have already been used in cosmesis, while wine lees have not been well exploited by the cosmetics industry yet. The aim of this work was the full characterization of the wine lees from Verdicchio's wine, with the aim to exploit it as a beneficial ingredient in new cosmetic products. After mapping the microbial composition of the sample waste, the parameters for the sonication extraction process were optimized and the physicochemical properties of the extract were analyzed. The efficiency of the aqueous extraction-and in particular the yeast cell lysis necessary for the release of proteins from the cell-was assessed by evaluating cell shape and size, and protein release, under scanning electron microscopy (SEM), dynamic light scattering (DLS) and Bradford's protein assays. Thus, the total phenol content and antioxidant capacity of the supernatant recovered from native and sonicated lees were determined by Folin-Ciocalteu's and spectrophotometric assays, respectively. To quantify the heavy metals and highlight the presence of microelements beneficial for the skin, inductively coupled plasma-mass spectrometry (ICP-MS) was applied. In vitro metabolic activity and cytotoxicity were tested on both HaCat keratinocytes and human gingival fibroblasts, showing that wine lees are safe for skin's cells. The results show that sonicated lees appear to be more interesting than native ones as a consequence of the release of the active ingredients from the cells. Due to the high antioxidant capacity, content of beneficial elements for skin and an appropriate microbiologic profile, wine lees were included in five new solid cosmetic products and tested for challenge test, compatibility with human skin, sensory analysis, trans epidermal water loss (TEWL) and sebometry.

Bio-Based Nano-Enabled Cosmetic Formulations for the Treatment of Cutibacterium acnes-Associated Skin Infections.

Acne is a common chronic skin condition with serious physical and psychosocial consequences. In some cases, the appearance of pimples, whiteheads, or blackheads on the face, neck, and back may lead to scarring, disfiguring, depression, frustration, and anxiety in patients. Current treatments rely on antibiotics to eradicate Cutibacterium acnes (C. acnes), the bacterium responsible for this skin condition. However, these approaches do not scavenge the reactive oxidative species (ROS) generated during disease development and raise concerns about the increase in antimicrobial resistance. In this study, an environmentally friendly and cost-effective self-assembly nanoencapsulation technology based on zein, a bio-based hydrophobic protein, was employed to produce multifunctional essential oil (EO)-loaded nanocapsules (NCs) with superior antioxidant and bactericidal activity toward C. acnes. The NCs displayed "smart" release of the active cargo only under the conditions that were conducive to acne proliferation on skin. Once incorporated into creams, the EO-loaded NCs led to a complete inhibition of C. acnes and demonstrated the capacity to scavenge ROS, thus preventing damage to human skin cells. The in vitro permeation studies revealed that the nanoformulated EO was able to penetrate through the epidermis, indicating its potential for the treatment of skin diseases, such as acne.

Addressing the Structural Organization of Silicone Alternatives in Formulations by Molecular Dynamics Simulations and a Novel Equilibration Protocol.

The world of cosmetics is an always-evolving field with constant updates on its formulation components. The current reality asks for an ever-increasing need for natural and sustainable replacements for synthetic compounds in all fields of modern consumer products. However, the research and development stages of finding these alternatives can be an expensive, time-consuming, and often wasteful process that turns this task into a laborious procedure. This study introduces the development of a computational methodology that will aid the research of silicone alternatives, disclosing their structural performance in a formulation. Additionally, an equilibration protocol was developed to measure the distribution and densities of these silicone alternatives to determine how they behave in relation to their counterparts, using molecular dynamics simulations. Two systems were tested, A and B, where the former is composed of one ester (Dipentaerythrityl Hexa C5 Acid Ester) and the latter by an ester combined with an alkane (Triheptanoin and C13-Isoalkane); all three molecules are commercially available and widely used. Both systems were subjected to a 3-step thermal regulation strategy. The systems went through an initial simulation at 25 °C and at 70 °C, then a temperature switch took place (25 °C « 70 °C), then a shock to 200 °C, and finally a Simulated Annealing protocol reaching 250 °C. In the end, all systems converged towards micelle-like structures. These results come to further ascertain the position of computational chemistry and Molecular Dynamics Simulations as an important part of R&D processes in modern sciences and investigation.

Bacterial Nanocellulose toward Green Cosmetics: Recent Progresses and Challenges.

In the skin care field, bacterial nanocellulose (BNC), a versatile polysaccharide produced by non-pathogenic acetic acid bacteria, has received increased attention as a promising candidate to replace synthetic polymers (e.g., nylon, polyethylene, polyacrylamides) commonly used in cosmetics. The applicability of BNC in cosmetics has been mainly investigated as a carrier of active ingredients or as a structuring agent of cosmetic formulations. However, with the sustainability issues that are underway in the highly innovative cosmetic industry and with the growth prospects for the market of bio-based products, a much more prominent role is envisioned for BNC in this field. Thus, this review provides a comprehensive overview of the most recent (last 5 years) and relevant developments and challenges in the research of BNC applied to cosmetic, aiming at inspiring future research to go beyond in the applicability of this exceptional biotechnological material in such a promising area.

Fundamentals and applications of particle stabilized emulsions in cosmetic formulations.

The cosmetic industry is one of the fastest growing industrial sectors that is constantly evolving by absorbing new technologies and incorporating innovative yet sustainable products. Cosmetic products are comprised of diverse formulations such as skin care, color cosmetics, hair care, makeup, body care products. Traditionally, cosmetic emulsions are stabilized using surfactants or polymers. Due to its adverse effects on environment, cytotoxicity effects, numerous health hazards, there is a strong drive to shift towards sustainable and surfactant free emulsions. With increasing consumer demand for a safer and more biodegradable products, formulating "surfactant- free" emulsions by replacing conventional stabilizers with particles has gained popularity. In this review, various important aspects and applications of particle stabilized emulsions in cosmetic formulations will be discussed. Importantly, novel ideas on surface modification of particles and use of Janus particles in cosmetic formulations will be discussed.

Correlations between sebaceous glands activity and porphyrins in the oily skin and hair and immediate effects of dermocosmetic formulations.

BACKGROUND: Oily skin and hair not only contain a large amount of sebum, but also exhibit other changes that compromise their physiology. The immediate effects of dermocosmetics are very important for adhesion to treatment. AIM: The aim of the present study was to characterize oily skin and scalp, to evaluate the correlation of sebum production with porphyrin counts and the immediate effects of topical formulations for sebum control. PATIENTS/METHODS: A total of 100 women aged 18-49 years were recruited. Sebaceous gland activity, sebum amount, stratum corneum water content (SCWC) transepidermal water loss (TEWL), skin gloss, amount of porphyrins and pores were determined in the face and SCWC, sebum amount, porphyrin count, and TEWL were also determined in the scalp. The immediate effects of formulations containing a guarana extract were determined after 2 hours of application. RESULTS: A correlation between sebaceous gland activity and presence of porphyrins in the frontal region of the face was detected. Low gloss values and large amounts of pores in the malar region were related to lower skin uniformity. High sebum values and low SCWC and porphyrin count were also observed in the vertex region. The studied formulations reduced the sebum content of face and scalp after 2 hours of application. CONCLUSION: Oily skin and hair showed high sebum values, which were correlated with porphyrin count and with the activity of sebaceous glands. Finally, the studied formulations had immediate reducing effects on sebum amounts on the skin and scalp.

The Late Stages of Melanogenesis: Exploring the Chemical Facets and the Application Opportunities.

In the last decade, the late stages of melanin biosynthesis involving the oxidative polymerization of 5,6-dihydroxyindole (DHI) and 5,6-dihydroxyindole-2-carboxylic acid (DHICA) have been extensively investigated. Most of the information derived from a biomimetic approach in which the oxidation of melanogenic indoles was carried out under conditions mimicking those occurring in the biological environment. Characterization of the early oligomers allowed for drawing a structural picture of DHI and DHICA melanins, providing also an interpretative basis for the different properties exhibited by these pigments, e.g., the chromophore and the antioxidant ability. The improved knowledge has opened new perspectives toward the exploitation of the unique chemistry of melanins and its precursors in cosmetic and health care applications. A noticeable example is the development of an innovative hair dyeing system that is based on the marked ease of DHI to give rise to black melanin on air oxidation under slightly alkaline conditions. The advantage of this method for a step-wise coverage of gray hair with a natural shade pigmentation on repeated treatment with a DHI-based formulation with respect to traditional dyes is presented. A variant of DHICA melanin combining solubility in water-miscible organic solvents, an intense chromophore in the UltraViolet-A UV-A region, and a marked antioxidant potency was evaluated as an ingredient for cosmetic formulations.

Layered Double Hydroxide-Based Functional Nanohybrids as Controlled Release Carriers of Pharmaceutically Active Ingredients.

The chemical stability, degradation and penetration ability of pharmaceutically active ingredients in topical formulations are the greatest challenges because of problems with the protection of actives for long times and with delivery. Therefore, the development of unique and efficient substrate material is vital for their protection and controlled drug release. Layered double hydroxides (LDHs) known as hydrotalcite like compounds possess positive charges due to isomorphic substitutions, which are counterbalanced by hydrated exchangeable anions located in the interlayer region. Some of the active ingredient molecules can be intercalated into the inner region of the LDHs through ionic bonding, hydrogen bonding or van der Waals interaction to form nanohybrids, which are more potent for their protection and controlled-release. This account focuses on our recent research efforts and key scientific and technical challenges in the development of LDH based nanohybrids for commercial use in advanced controlled release carriers of active ingredients in topical formulations.

Influence of UV filters on the texture profile and efficacy of a cosmetic formulation.

OBJECTIVE: Considering that many cosmetic products contain UV filters in their composition and that few studies have evaluated the role of UV filters in the physical properties and clinical efficacy of these products, the aim of this study was to assess the influence of UV filters on the properties and immediate effects of a cosmetic formulation. METHODS: Four cosmetic formulations, vehicle (V), vehicle containing UV filters (F), vehicle containing cassava polysaccharides and alfalfa (A) oligosaccharides and vehicle containing UV filters plus cassava polysaccharides and alfalfa oligosaccharides (multifunctional formulation, M) were developed. The texture profile of the formulations was analysed with a TA.XT plus Texturometer® . Twenty female volunteers aged 39-45 years were then selected for the assessment of immediate clinical efficacy of the formulations under study and of transepidermal water loss (TEWL), stratum corneum water content and microrelief of the skin obtained with their use. RESULTS: The presence of UV filters resulted in an improvement of the physical properties of the multifunctional cosmetic formulation (M) and of skin microrelief. However, the presence of UV filters also caused a significant decrease in hydration. CONCLUSION: The presence of sunscreens had a negative influence on immediate skin hydration and TEWL. On the other hand, it positively influenced parameters related to the physical properties of the multifunctional formulation and skin microrelief. Thus, we conclude that the influence of UV filters on the development of cosmetic formulations is an important factor to be considered because it can have either positive or negative effect on the efficacy of the product.

Acetyl hexapeptide-3 in a cosmetic formulation acts on skin mechanical properties - clinical study

abstract Acetyl hexapeptide-3 has been used in anti-aging topical formulations aimed at improving skin appearance. However, few basic studies address its effects on epidermis and dermis, when vehiculated in topical formulations. Thus, the objective of this study was to determine the clinical efficacy of acetyl hexapeptide-3 using biophysical techniques. For this purpose, formulations with and without acetyl hexapeptide-3 were applied to the ventral forearm and the face area of forty female volunteers. Skin conditions were evaluated after 2 and 4-week long daily applications, by analyzing the stratum corneum water content and the skin mechanical properties, using three instruments, the Corneometer(r) CM 825, CutometerSEM 575 and ReviscometerRV600. All formulations tested increased the stratum corneum water content in the face region, which remained constant until the end of the study. In contrast, only formulations containing acetyl hexapeptide-3 exhibit a significant effect on mechanical properties, by decreasing the anisotropy of the face skin. No significant effects were observed in viscoelasticity parameters. In conclusion, the effects of acetyl hexapeptide-3 on the anisotropy of face skin characterize the compound as an effective ingredient for improving conditions of the cutaneous tissue, when used in anti-aging cosmetic formulations.

resumo Acetil hexapeptídeo-3 tem sido utilizado como um ingrediente ativo em formulações tópicas antienvelhecimento para a melhoria da aparência cutânea. No entanto, poucos estudos avaliam seus efeitos na epiderme e derme, quando veiculado em formulações tópicas. Portanto, o objetivo desse estudo foi a determinação da eficácia clínica de acetil hexapeptídeo-3 utilizando técnicas de biofísica e de análise de imagem. Para tal, formulações contendo, ou não, acetil hexapeptídeo-3 foram aplicadas no antebraço volar e na face de voluntárias. As condições cutâneas foram avaliadas após duas e quatro semanas de aplicação diária das formulações, por meio da análise no conteúdo aquoso do estrato córneo e avaliação das propriedades mecânicas da pele, utilizando os equipamentos Corneometer(r) CM 825, CutometerSEM 575 e ReviscometerRV600. Todas as formulações avaliadas aumentaram o conteúdo aquoso do estrato córneo na face, o qual permaneceu constante até o fim do estudo. Por outro lado, somente as formulações contendo acetil hexapeptídeo-3 apresentaram efeito significativo nas propriedades mecânicas, por meio da diminuição da anisotropia da pele na face. Não foram observados efeitos significativos para os parâmetros de viscoelasticidade. Em conclusão, os efeitos de acetil hexapeptídeo-3 na pele caracteriza este peptídeo como um ingrediente ativo efetivo para a melhoria das condições cutâneas, quando utilizadas em formulações cosméticas.

Determination of N-acetylglucosamine in cosmetic formulations and skin test samples by hydrophilic interaction liquid chromatography and UV detection.

N-Acetylglucosamine is an ingredient in pharmaceuticals, nutritional supplements and in cosmetics. N-Acetylglucosamine in cosmetics is expected to improve skin hydration, reparation, and to contribute as anti-wrinkle agent. This study reports on the validation and application of an HPLC method based on HILIC and UV detection for determining N-acetylglucosamine in cosmetics and in samples obtained after testing the skin exposed to cosmetics formulations. The chromatographic column used is a ZIC(®)-pHILIC (150 mm × 4.6 mm, 5 µm particle size) on which a mobile phase containing acetonitrile-aqueous KH2PO4 (70:30, v/v) 15 mM was applied in isocratic elution mode injecting 20 µl of sample at 0.5 ml/min constant flow-rate and 10±1°C column temperature. Under these conditions the total run time was 10 min and N-acetylglucosamine eluted baseline separated from all other compounds in the samples. Calibration in the range from 40 to 80 µg/ml allowed to assess the method linearity (R(2)>0.999) in a concentration range corresponding to about 50% to 120% of the expected levels of N-acetylglucosamine in the formulations. Precision expressed by RSD% was always better than 2% in intra-day and inter-day assays of authentic samples. Accuracy was in all cases within 95-105% of the expected concentration value in formulations containing N-acetylglucosamine. The sensitivity of the method was at the level of 10 µg/ml as limit of detection, and at 40 µg/ml as limit of quantitation. The application of the method to formulations containing solid lipid nanoparticles documents its usefulness in cosmetic quality control. The results witness that the method is also suitable for the determination of N-acetylglucosamine in samples obtained from skin test strips.

Preservative activity of lavender hydrosols in moisturizing body gels.

UNLABELLED: The study was undertaken to verify the antimicrobial activity of Lavandula angustifolia hydrosols in moisturizing body gels. The inhibition efficacy of four lavender hydrosols (obtained from fresh or dry herbs or flowers) was tested against Staphylococcus aureus ATCC 6538, Escherichia coli ATCC 1627, Candida sp. LOCK 0008 and Aspergillus niger ATCC 16404 in compliance with the standards of the European Pharmacopoeia Commission. Although the tested hydrosols did not express any remarkable antimicrobial action when tested via the macrodilution method, they show preservative activity in cosmetic preparations. Criterion A for fungi was fulfilled for the cosmetic formulation containing dried flower hydrosol (reduction of the inoculum by two logarithmic units within 14 days with no increase up to the 28th day) and Criterion B for bacteria E. coli and Staph. aureus (reduction of the inoculum by three logarithmic units within 14 days with no increase up to the 28th day). The fresh herb lavender hydrosol in the cosmetic formulation was regarded as the second one effectively satisfying Criterion B for bacteria, but its activity against fungi was below the acceptance value set out in the official regulations. Lavender hydrosols used as a replacement for water phase in cosmetics may contribute to maintaining microbiological stability of cosmetic formulations. SIGNIFICANCE AND IMPACT OF THE STUDY: The presented research proved antimicrobial activity of hydrosols obtained from fresh or dried Lavandula angustifolia herbs or flowers in moisturizing body gel. The study shows the usefulness of lavender hydrosols as a natural, ecologically friendly component of cosmetics with potential preservative activity in formulations. Hydrosols are commonly regarded as waste in the production of essential oils. The use of lavender hydrosols in the cosmetic industry as a replacement for water phase in cosmetics may not only result in expenses reduction for chemical stabilizers and preservatives but also in substantial decrease in sewage disposal.

Moisturizing effect of a cosmetic formulation containing pequi oil (Caryocar brasiliense) from the Brazilian cerrado biome

Caryocar brasiliense, popularly known in Brazil as “pequi”, is a species widely distributed in the Brazilian Cerrado. The seeds are surrounded by a woody endocarp coated with a yellow fleshy mesocarp rich in oil and vitamin A, whose oil has a useful role in the treatment of skin aging and protection of human skin against UV-induced damage and skin hydration. The aim of this study was to evaluate the effect of cosmetic formulations containing pequi oil (Caryocar brasiliense) on skin hydration, after a single application. Hydration effect assessment was performed by applying the formulations under study (Control – no formulation, vehicle, and vehicle + pequi oil) onto forearm skin of 30 human volunteers. Skin capacitance and Transepidermal Water Loss (TEWL) measurements were analyzed before, and at 1, 2 and 3 hours after, a single application. Evaluation results of a single application of the vehicle containing pequi oil showed an increase in stratum corneum water content, indicating a skin moisturizing effect. Results of the evaluation of immediate effects of TEWL demonstrated that the vehicle containing pequi oil significantly increased skin moisture during the 3 h evaluation period. The formulations containing pequi oil showed clinical efficacy, increasing stratum corneum water content and enhancing skin barrier function.

Caryocar brasiliense, popularmente conhecido como “Pequi”, é uma espécie amplamente distribuída no Cerrado Brasileiro. O fruto é composto por sementes com endocarpo rígido e lenhoso, recoberto pelo mesocarpo carnoso, amarelado, rico em óleos e vitamina A, útil na proteção da pele contra raios UV, no tratamento das marcas senis da pele, bem como na hidratação cutânea. O objetivo deste estudo foi avaliar o efeito cosmético de formulações contendo óleo de pequi (Caryocar brasiliense) na hidratação cutânea, após uma única aplicação. Este efeito foi avaliado instrumentalmente através de medidas da capacitância da pele e pela perda de água transepidérmica após 1, 2 e 3 horas de uma única aplicação das formulações em estudo (controle, veículo e veículo + óleo de pequi) na pele do antebraço de 30 voluntários. Por meio das avaliações, a formulação contendo óleo de pequi aumentou o conteúdo de água no estrato córneo após 1, 2 e 3 horas, além de diminuir a perda de água transepidérmica, aumentando, significativamente, a hidratação cutânea durante as 3 horas de avaliação. A formulação contendo óleo de pequi apresentou eficácia clínica, aumentando o conteúdo aquoso do estrato córneo, bem como promovendo o efeito barreira na pele.

Immediate and long-term effects of polysaccharides-based formulations on human skin

A new trend in cosmetic formulations is the use of biotechnological raw materials as the polysaccharides from Klebsiella pneumoniae, which are supposed to enhance cell renewal, improve skin hydration and micro-relief. Botanical extracts of Myrtus communis leaves contain different sugars, which may provide the same benefits. Thus, the objective of this study was to evaluate through objective and subjective analysis the immediate and long-term effects of cosmetic formulations containing polysaccharides biotechnologically-originated and / or the ones contained in Myrtus communis extracts. Three polysaccharide-based and placebo formulations were applied on the forearm skin of 40 volunteers. Skin hydration, transepidermal water loss (TEWL), viscoelasticity and skin micro-relief measurements were made before and 2 hours after a single application and after 15 and 30 day-periods of daily applications. Answers to a questionnaire about perceptions of formulation cosmetic features constituted the subjective analysis. All polysaccharide-based formulations enhanced skin hydration. Formulations with isolated or combined active substances improved skin barrier function as compared to placebo, in the short and long term studies. Formulations containing Myrtus communis extracts had the highest acceptance. Results suggest that daily use of formulations containing these substances is important for protection of the skin barrier function.

Uma nova tendência em formulações cosméticas é a utilização de matérias-primas biotecnológicas como os polissacarídeos de Klebsiella pneumoniae, que pode aumentar a renovação celular e melhor a hidratação e micro-relevo da pele. Por outro lado, o extrato vegetal de Myrtus communis contém diferentes polissacarídeos, que também podem proporcionar benefícios à pele. Assim, o objetivo do estudo foi a avaliação dos efeitos imediatos e em longo prazo, de formulações cosméticas contendo polissacarídeos obtidos por processo biotecnológico e/ou de extrato de M. communis por meio de análises objetivas e subjetivas. Três formulações contendo os polissacarídeos e um placebo foram aplicadas na pele dos antebraços de 40 voluntários. As medidas foram realizadas antes e após 2 horas da aplicação das formulações e após 15 e 30 dias de aplicações diárias em termos de hidratação da pele, perda transepidérmica de água (TEWL), viscoelasticidade e micro-relevo da pele. Para a análise subjetiva, os voluntários responderam um questionário a fim de obter-se informações sobre a percepção relativa à qualidade de cosméticos. Todas as formulações provocaram aumento da hidratação cutânea. As formulações que continham os polissacarídeos melhoraram a função barreira da pele, em curto e em longo prazo. A formulação contendo extrato de M. communis apresentou maior aceitação. Os resultados sugerem que o uso diário dos polissacarídeos avaliados é importante na proteção da função barreira da pele.

Physical and physicochemical stability evaluation of cosmetic formulations containing soybean extract fermented by Bifidobacterium animalis / Avaliação da estabilidade física e físico-química de formulações cosméticas contendo extrato de soja fermentado por Bifidobacterium animalis

Peel off facial masks, based on polyvinyl alcohol (PVA), are formulations that, after application and drying, form an occlusive film over the face. After removing, they provide cleanness, tensor and moisturizing effects, removing dead cells, residues and other materials deposited on the stratum corneous. The soybean extract fermented by Bifidobacterium animalis has sugars, amino acids, peptides, proteins and free isoflavonoids in high concentrations, when compared to the unfermented extract, providing benefits to the cosmetic formulations like anti-aging effect, moisture, tensor action and emollience. The cosmetic bases of peel off facial masks, added with 5.0 percent w/w of fermented soybean extract, were submitted to Preliminary and Accelerated Stability Studies. Eight (8) preparations were evaluated in several conditions of temperature (-10.0, 5.0, 22.0 and 45.0 ºC) and time (maximum of 15 days), comparing the results with the initial condition (48 h after preparation). The variables observed were: organoleptic characteristics, pH and appearing viscosity value and film drying time. The preparation containing 17.0 percent w/w of PVA and 0.5 percent w/w of guar gum was selected between the eight preparations initially prepared, because it presented the best performance in the stability test, being recommended storage at low temperatures (5.0 ºC).

As máscaras faciais peel off a base de álcool polivinílico (PVA) são formulações que, após a aplicação e secagem, formam um filme oclusivo sobre a face e, após sua remoção, conferem limpeza, ação tensora e hidratação à pele, retirando células mortas do estrato córneo, resíduos e outros materiais depositados. O extrato de soja fermentado por Bifidobacterium animalis possui açúcares, aminoácidos, peptídeos, e alto teor de isoflavonas na forma livre, quando comparado ao leite não fermentado, propiciando benefícios às formulações cosméticas, como ação antienvelhecimento, hidratação, efeito tensor e emoliência. As bases cosméticas de máscaras faciais peel off, acrescidas de extrato de soja fermentado 5,0 por cento p/p, foram submetidas aos ensaios de Estabilidade Preliminar e Acelerada, avaliando-se 8 preparações em diversas condições de temperatura (-10,0; 5,0; 22,0 e 45,0 ºC) e tempo (máximo de 15 dias), em relação à condição inicial (48 h após o preparo). As variáveis observadas envolveram: características organolépticas, valor de pH, viscosidade aparente e tempo de secagem do filme. A preparação contendo 17,0 por cento p/p de PVA e 0,5 por cento p/p de goma guar foi a selecionada dentre as oito preparações elaboradas inicialmente, por ter apresentado melhor desempenho no teste de estabilidade, sendo recomendado o armazenamento em temperatura reduzida (5,0 ºC).