Ex vivo UV-vis and FTIR photoacoustic spectroscopy of natural nanoemulsions from cellulose nanocrystals and saponins topically applied into the skin: Diffusion rates and physicochemical evaluation.

Nanoemulsions are increasingly gaining importance in the development of topically applied medicine and cosmetic products because their small droplets favor the penetration rates of active compounds into the body. In this scenario, the measurements of their diffusion rates as well as eventual physicochemical changes in the target tissues are of utmost importance. It is also recognized that the use of natural surfactants can avoid allergic reactions as frequently observed for synthetic products. The natural saponins extracted from Sapindus Saponaria have the property of forming foam and are exploited as biocompatible and biodegradable, while cellulose nanocrystals are known to increase the stability of a formulation avoiding the coalescence of drops at the interface. Therefore, nanoemulsions combining natural saponins and cellulose nanocrystals are promising systems that may facilitate greater diffusion rates of molecules into the skin, being candidates to substitute synthetic formulations. This study applied the Photoacoustic Spectroscopy technique to measure the diffusion rates and the physicochemical properties of nanoemulsified formulations containing saponins and cellulose nanocrystals topically applied to the skin. The ex vivo study combined the first-time photoacoustic measurements performed in both ultraviolet-visible and mid-infrared spectral regions. The toxicity of these formulations in L929 cells was also evaluated. The results showed that the formulations were able to propagate throughout the skin to a depth of approximately 756 µm, reaching the dermal side. The non-observation of absorbing band shifting or new bands in the FTIR spectra suggests that there were no structural changes in the skin as well as in the formulations after the nanoemulsions administration. The cytotoxicity results showed that the increase of cellulose nanocrystals concentration decreased cellular toxicity. In conclusion, the results demonstrated the advantage of combining photoacoustic methods in the ultraviolet-visible and mid-infrared spectral regions to analyze drug diffusion and interaction with the skin tissues. Both methods complement each other, allowing the confirmation of the nanoemulsion diffusion through the skin and also suggesting there were no detectable physicochemical changes in the tissues. Formulations stabilized with saponins and cellulose nanocrystals showed great potential for the development of topically administered cosmetics and drugs.

Evaluation of a multiple microemulsion from Trichilia catigua extract and the percutaneous penetration through skin by Phase-Resolved photoacoustic spectroscopy.

Emulsion systems have been a breakthrough in cosmetic products, providing performance and effectiveness of products that use this technological strategy for drug delivery systems. In this sense, the microemulsion of the multiple emulsion W/O/W type containing a standardized extract of Trichilia catigua with high levels of polyphenols and antioxidants has great potential for cosmetic use. The aim of this study was to evaluate the formulations safety through the analysis of toxicity, comedogenicity, and histopathology in rabbits and apply the Phase-Resolved Photoacoustic Spectroscopy method to determine the formulation percutaneous penetration through the skin. The ex vivo experiments were performed in the ears of albino New Zealand rabbits treated twice a day for 14 days. The results of histological, hematological, and blood chemistry showed that the formulations are safe. Histopathological analysis showed no tissue reaction in any of the analyzed organs (liver and kidneys), confirming the absence of toxicity. Histological analysis showed that the formulations with extract of T. catigua demonstrated mild-moderately comedogenic and acanthosis compared to the control group. Inflammatory reactions, erythema, and desquamation were not observed in treated and controls animals. The phase-resolved photoacoustic spectroscopy method showed the penetration of the developed formulations throughout the rabbit's skin, identifying their absorption bands at the dermal side of the skin. In conclusion, the results of this study provide a step towards the application of the developed natural antioxidant encapsulated in a multiple microemulsion for skincare, concerned with the physical, chemical, and biological properties of the formulation.

Anestésicos tópicos: [revisão] / Topical anesthetics: [review]

Os procedimentos cirúrgicos e cosmiátricos realizados pelos dermatologistas, tais como laser para epilação, remoção de tatuagem e rejuvenescimento, curetagem, eletrocoagulação, crioterapia, preenchimentos injetáveis, aplicação de toxina botulínica, escleroterapia, "peelings" químicos, entre outros, requerem muitas vezes o uso de anestésicos locais para o conforto do paciente. Tradicionalmente, o agente anestésico de escolha é a lidocaína injetável. Embora seja muito eficaz na produção de anestesia local total, a injeção causa dor. Há vários anestésicos tópicos disponíveis que podem aliviar o desconforto causado por esses procedimentos, sem a necessidade de injeções.