A comprehensive study on changes in coastal hydrodynamics associated with cyclonic activity.

A Mediterranean cyclone is a weather phenomenon capable of producing extremely severe conditions, including heavy rainfall and strong winds. Between March 24 and 26, 2023, a cyclone passed along the western Egyptian Mediterranean coast, spanning three days. This paper aims to investigate the cyclone's impact on wave characteristics, focusing particularly on simulating changes in the energy transported from wind to waves during its passage, which constitutes the core objective of this study. The research methodology involved collecting meteorological and hydrodynamic data over five days from March 23 to 27, 2023, utilizing databases of the Bologna Limited Area Model (BOLAM) and the General Bathymetric Chart of the Oceans (GEBCO). This data, combined with field data for model calibration and validation, was analyzed using the Simulating the WAves Nearshore (SWAN) model packaged within the Delft 3D hydrodynamical model, integrated with other data manipulation tools. (SWAN) demonstrated the ability to simulate energy transport during extreme weather events along the coastal area with high resolution, up to 500 m. The results indicate a significant increase in significant wave height, reaching up to 2.5 m, and disturbances in wind direction, with velocities exceeding 10 m per second. These conditions pose risks to the infrastructure in some cities along the study area and have severe impacts on coastal communities. A notable finding from the simulations is the excess energy transport, which reached up to 12,000 watts per meter over the sea surface during the cyclone. Furthermore, calibration and validation results affirm the (SWAN) model's capability to accurately study wave characteristics.

The contribution of wind wave changes on diminishing ice period in Lake Pyhäjärvi during the last half-century.

To address the contribution of long-term wind wave changes on diminishing ice period in Northern European lakes, an in situ observation of wind waves was conducted to calibrate a wind-wave numerical model for Lake Pyhäjärvi, which is the largest lake in southwest Finland. Using station-measured hydrometeorological data from 1963 to 2013 and model-simulated wind waves, correlation and regression analyses were conducted to assess the changing trend and main influences on ice period. Ice period in Lake Pyhäjärvi decreased significantly over 51 years (r = 0.47, P < 0.01). The analysis of main hydrometeorological factors to ice period showed that the significant air temperature rise is the main contributor for the diminishing of ice period in the lake. Besides air temperature, wind-induced waves can also weaken lake ice by increasing water mixing and lake ice breakage. The regression indicated that mean significant wave height in December and April was negatively related to ice period (r = - 0.48, P < 0.01). These results imply that long-term changes of wind waves related to climate change should be considered to fully understand the reduction of aquatic ice at high latitudes.

Diffraction and reflection of irregular waves in a harbor employing a spectral model

The SWAN wave model is widely used in coastal waters and the main focus of this work is on its application in a harbor. Its last released version - SWAN 40.51 - includes an approximation to compute diffraction, however, so far there are few published works that discuss this matter. The performance of the model is therefore investigated in a harbor where reflection and diffraction play a relevant role. To assess its estimates, a phase-resolving Boussinesq wave model is employed as well, together with measurements carried out at a small-scale model of the area behind the breakwater. For irregular, short-crested waves with broad directional spreading, the importance of diffraction is relatively small. On the other hand, reflection of the incident waves is significant, increasing the energy inside the harbor. Nevertheless, the SWAN model does not achieve convergence when it is set to compute diffraction and reflection simultaneously. It is concluded that, for situations typically encountered in harbors, with irregular waves near reflective obstacles, the model should be set without the diffraction option.

O modelo de ondas SWAN é amplamente empregado em simulações na região costeira e o presente trabalho investiga sua aplicação dentro de um porto. A última versão disponibilizada para a comunidade - SWAN 40.51 - inclui uma aproximação para computar a difração, embora, até o momento, poucos trabalhos abordando este tema foram publicados. O desempenho do modelo é estudado em um porto onde os fenômenos de reflexão e difração são importantes. Para avaliar suas estimativas, um modelo do tipo Boussinesq também é empregado, juntamente com medições realizadas em um modelo em escala reduzida da área atrás do quebramar. Para ondas irregulares, com cristas curtas e espalhamento direcional mais amplo, a importância da difração é relativamente menor. Contudo, o modelo SWAN não alcança convergência quando programado para estimar difração e reflexão simultaneamente. Conclui-se que, para situações normalmente encontradas em portos, com ondas irregulares próximas a obstáculos refletivos, o modelo deve ser empregado sem a opção de difração.