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1.
J. pediatr. (Rio J.) ; 100(3): 263-266, May-June 2024. tab
Article in English | LILACS-Express | LILACS | ID: biblio-1558331

ABSTRACT

Abstract Objective: Perfume (Parfum) or fragrance is a natural or synthetic cosmetic ingredient added to emit a pleasant aroma or to improve the odor of a cosmetic formula. It is a mixture of substances, not revealed by the manufacturer, which may contain ingredients with allergenic potential, endocrine disruptors, and other possible harmful effects on human health. This study aims to analyze children's cosmetics labels to assess the presence of Perfume. Methods: The researchers randomly visited points of sale in Curitiba, the capital of a southern Brazilian state; in order to catalog the largest possible number of children's cosmetics items. Results: 398 children's cosmetics were analyzed and found Parfum on 295 (74.1 %) of the labels, including 90.4 and 79,1 % of the shampoos and wet wipes, respectively. Conclusion: Exposure of children's skin to fragrances can lead to local side effects such as allergies, but also to systemic effects, and the lack of knowledge of the general population and health professionals about its possible deleterious effects emphasizes the importance of changes in the regulation of cosmetics aiming to reduce the use of this ingredient.

2.
J Asian Nat Prod Res ; : 1-12, 2024 May 16.
Article in English | MEDLINE | ID: mdl-38753582

ABSTRACT

Two series of vanillin derivatives containing 1,3,4-oxadiazole and 1,3-thiazolidin-4-one scaffolds were prepared and evaluated for their antifungal activity. The results revealed that compounds 6j (29.73 µg/ml) and 7a (38.15 µg/ml) displayed excellent inhibitory activity against the spore of Fusarium solani. The inhibitory activity of compound 7d (10.53 µg/ml) against the spore of Alternaria solani was more than 42-fold that of vanillin. Compound 7a (37.54 µg/ml) showed better antifungal activity against the spore of B. cinerea than positive controls. The cytotoxicity assay confirmed that compounds 6k, 7a, and 7d showed good selectivity and less toxicity to normal mammalian cells.

3.
MethodsX ; 12: 102627, 2024 Jun.
Article in English | MEDLINE | ID: mdl-38445172

ABSTRACT

In recent years, there has been a rise in research on sensorium in various academic disciplines. Olfaction is recognized as a sense that is most closely linked to cognition, memory and emotion. Due to this unique feature, studies on various aspects of human olfaction are steadily gaining prominence in the humanities and social sciences. In order to understand how the olfactory modality is marked, several taxonomies and semantic spaces of olfactory terms have been developed. However, the focus has been on the general olfaction lexicon and there is a lack of systematic and comprehensive lexicons for fragrant smells. This article addresses this gap. It adopts a multilingual perspective and describes the process of developing a fragrance lexicon in two languages, Russian and English. A fragrance lexicon refers to a list of words that people might use to describe a perfume. The steps in the lexicon development included •sourcing the lexical items in the two languages•translating and cleaning the word lists•revising and refining the lexiconThe fragrance lexicon presented in this article can be used to aid linguistic analyses of naturally occurring communications about perfumes, such as computational analyses of consumer-generated perfume reviews.

4.
J Pediatr (Rio J) ; 2023 Nov 24.
Article in English | MEDLINE | ID: mdl-38012955

ABSTRACT

OBJECTIVE: Perfume (Parfum) or fragrance is a natural or synthetic cosmetic ingredient added to emit a pleasant aroma or to improve the odor of a cosmetic formula. It is a mixture of substances, not revealed by the manufacturer, which may contain ingredients with allergenic potential, endocrine disruptors, and other possible harmful effects on human health. This study aims to analyze children's cosmetics labels to assess the presence of Perfume. METHODS: The researchers randomly visited points of sale in Curitiba, the capital of a southern Brazilian state; in order to catalog the largest possible number of children's cosmetics items. RESULTS: 398 children's cosmetics were analyzed and found Parfum on 295 (74.1 %) of the labels, including 90.4 and 79,1 % of the shampoos and wet wipes, respectively. CONCLUSION: Exposure of children's skin to fragrances can lead to local side effects such as allergies, but also to systemic effects, and the lack of knowledge of the general population and health professionals about its possible deleterious effects emphasizes the importance of changes in the regulation of cosmetics aiming to reduce the use of this ingredient.

5.
Curr Biol ; 33(10): 2075-2080.e3, 2023 05 22.
Article in English | MEDLINE | ID: mdl-37054713

ABSTRACT

Perfume making in male orchid bees is a unique behavior that has given rise to an entire pollination syndrome in the neotropics.1,2 Male orchid bees concoct and store species-specific perfume mixtures in specialized hind-leg pockets3 using volatiles acquired from multiple environmental sources, including orchid flowers.4,5 However, the function and the ultimate causes of this behavior have remained elusive.2,6 Although previous observations suggested that male perfumes serve as chemical signals, the attractiveness for females has not be shown.7,8 Here, we demonstrate that the possession of perfume increases male mating success and paternity in Euglossa dilemma, a species of orchid bees recently naturalized in Florida. We supplemented males reared from trap-nests with perfume loads harvested from wild conspecifics. In dual-choice experiments, males supplemented with perfumes mated with more females, and sired more offspring, than untreated, equal-aged, control males. Although perfume supplementation had little effect on the intensity of male courtship display, it changed the dynamics of male-male interactions. Our results demonstrate that male-acquired perfumes are sexual signals that stimulate females for mating and suggest that sexual selection is key in shaping the evolution of perfume communication in orchid bees.


Subject(s)
Perfume , Female , Bees , Male , Animals , Courtship , Species Specificity , Florida , Flowers
6.
Physiol Behav ; 264: 114147, 2023 05 15.
Article in English | MEDLINE | ID: mdl-36893999

ABSTRACT

Humans can communicate their emotions to others via volatile emissions from their bodies. Although there is now solid evidence for human chemical communication of fear, stress and anxiety, investigations of positive emotions remain scarce. In a recent study, we found that women's heart rate and performance in creativity tasks were modulated by body odors of men sampled while they were in a positive vs. neutral mood. However, inducing positive emotions in laboratory settings remains challenging. Therefore, an important step to further investigate the human chemical communication of positive emotions is to develop new methods to induce positive moods. Here, we present a new mood induction procedure (MIP) based on virtual reality (VR), that we assumed to be more powerful than videos (used in our previous study) to induce positive emotions. We hypothesized that, consequently, given the more intense emotions created, this VR-based MIP would induce larger differences between the receivers' responses to the positive body odor versus a neutral control body odor, than the Video-based MIP. The results confirmed the higher efficacy of VR to induce positive emotions compared with videos. More specifically, VR had more repeatable effects between individuals. Although positive body odors had similar effects to those found in the previous video study, especially faster problem solving, these effects did not reach statistical significance. These outcomes are discussed as a function of the specificities of VR and of other methodological parameters, that may have prevented the observation of such subtle effects and that should be understood more in-depth for future studies on human chemical communication.


Subject(s)
Body Odor , Emotions , Nonverbal Communication , Female , Humans , Male , Affect/physiology , Emotions/physiology , Virtual Reality , Nonverbal Communication/psychology , Young Adult , Adult
7.
J Colloid Interface Sci ; 638: 561-568, 2023 May 15.
Article in English | MEDLINE | ID: mdl-36773518

ABSTRACT

HYPOTHESIS: Solubilization of hydrophobic compounds in water is commonly performed by using organic solubilizers such as hydrotropes, surfactants, co-solvents, and macrocycles to form host-guest complexes. 3,3'-commo-bis[closo-1,2-dicarba-3-cobaltadodecaborane] derivatives (COSANs) are fully inorganic and non-amphiphilic ionic boron clusters with nanometric size (nano-ions) showing superchaotropic properties as they strongly bind to neutral organic molecules. Therefore, we expect COSANs to act as solubilizers of sparingly water-soluble molecules, but with a mechanism different from all other organic solubilizers known so far. EXPERIMENTS: The aqueous solubilization efficiency of COSANs towards butanol was evaluated by determining phase diagrams and comparing them to classical solubilizers. Nanostructuration of the mixture was studied using UV spectroscopy, small-angle X-ray, and neutron scattering with contrast variation. FINDINGS: COSANs act as efficient aqueous solubilizers of medium-chain alcohols (0.6 < log P < 1.5). Unlike surfactants, COSAN is an efficient solubilizer in its monomeric state, at concentrations well below its critical aggregation concentration. Solubilization by COSAN takes place with a bi-dimensional anisotropic growth of COSAN/butanol co-assemblies, whereas solubilization by surfactant occurs via an isotropic swelling of micelles. Appealingly, COSANs/2-butanol co-assemblies efficiently solubilize more hydrophobic compounds with log P values up to around 6, offering new opportunities in many applied fields.

8.
Indoor Air ; 32(11): e13153, 2022 11.
Article in English | MEDLINE | ID: mdl-36437662

ABSTRACT

We performed a cross-sectional survey of 2143 female students in a university in Tianjin, China regarding perceived air quality (PAQ) and sick building syndrome (SBS) symptoms in the student dormitory. The prevalence of general, mucosal, and skin symptoms was 22.1%, 21.9%, and 26.3%, respectively. The three most prevalent PAQ complaints were "dry air" (48.9% often), "stuffy odor" (18.2%), and "other unpleasant odors" (5.1%), and they were significant risk factors for 11-12 out of 12 SBS symptoms (adjusted odds ratios [AOR]: 1.6-5.8). Survey data of 1471 undergraduates, whose dorms were of uniform layout and furnishing, were used to further investigate the influences of occupancy level and occupant behaviors on PAQ and SBS symptoms. Frequent use of air freshener/perfume was a significant risk factor for "dry air," less frequent room cleaning and higher occupancy density were significant risk factors for "stuffy odor," and less natural ventilation was a significant risk factor for both "stuffy odor" and "pungent odor." These factors were also significantly associated with some SBS symptoms. In particular, the use of air freshener/perfume exhibited a significant dose-response pattern with "fatigue" (sometimes: AOR 1.3; often: AOR 2.0) and with "irritated, stuffy, or runny nose" (sometimes: AOR 1.6; often: AOR 2.2).


Subject(s)
Air Pollution, Indoor , Air Pollution , Perfume , Sick Building Syndrome , Humans , Female , Sick Building Syndrome/epidemiology , Sick Building Syndrome/etiology , Cross-Sectional Studies , Air Pollution, Indoor/adverse effects , Students
9.
J Environ Health Sci Eng ; 20(1): 589-598, 2022 Jun.
Article in English | MEDLINE | ID: mdl-35669814

ABSTRACT

Cosmetic products, especially perfumes and colognes, are widely used in various communities. However, the use of these products can have side effects on consumers. This article aims to review the relevant literature published up to August 2020 to determine whether perfumes and colognes can affect people's health. Relevant articles were identified through electronic search. A total of 562 articles were selected and finally 37 related articles were included in the study after the screening process. The results of this systematic study showed that phthalates, aldehydes, parabens and aluminum-based salts are the most important contaminants in aromatic products that cause side effects such as allergies, breast cancer, reproductive disorders, especially in males, skin allergies, nervous system damage and migraine headaches for consumers. The incidence of complications in people using these products depends on parameters such as age, gender, race, amount of substance consumed, duration of use and economic status, and regarding the relationship between diseases such as cancer, respiratory disorders and endocrine with common contaminants in aromatic products, incidence of these diseases is probable in consumers which require further research to prove.

10.
Chem Senses ; 472022 01 01.
Article in English | MEDLINE | ID: mdl-35588293

ABSTRACT

Emotions can be communicated in social contexts through chemosignals contained in human body odors. The transmission of positive emotions via these signals has received little interest in past research focused mainly on negative emotional transmission. Furthermore, how the use of perfumed products might modulate this transmission remains poorly understood. To investigate human positive chemical communication, we explored the autonomic, verbal, and behavioral responses of receivers exposed to body odors of donors having undergone a within-subject positive or neutral mood induction procedure. These responses were compared with those obtained after exposure to the same body odors with added fragrance. Our findings suggest that positive emotions can be transmitted through body odor. They not only induced modifications at the physiological (heart rate) and verbal levels (perceived intensity and familiarity) but also at the behavioral level, with an improved performance on creativity tasks. Perfume did not modulate the physiological effects and had a synergistic effect on the positive body odor ratings (increased perceived differences between the neutral and positive body odor).


Subject(s)
Perfume , Emotions/physiology , Humans , Odorants , Smell/physiology , Sweat
11.
Foods ; 11(3)2022 Feb 01.
Article in English | MEDLINE | ID: mdl-35159578

ABSTRACT

It is typically recommended that panelists should refrain from wearing personal fragrances, such as perfume or cologne, prior to sensory evaluation. Interestingly, no study has been reported as to whether panelists' perceptions of test samples could be affected by personal fragrances worn by themselves. The objective of this study was, therefore, to determine the effect of such a personal fragrance on olfactory performance. Nineteen untrained participants were screened, recruited for, and underwent the Sniffin' Sticks test designed for measuring olfactory performances that included the odor threshold, discrimination, and identification (TDI). The olfactory performance tasks were conducted under three fragrance level conditions: (1) control (no fragrance), (2) just-about-right (JAR), and (3) excessive, with a preliminary study used to identify both the JAR and excessive fragrance levels. The results showed that the odor discrimination, odor threshold, and combined TDI performances were significantly lowered in the two conditions with the perfume fragrance, while the odor identification performance exhibited no significant differences across all three conditions. These findings provide empirical evidence that even low to moderate levels of personal fragrance can significantly reduce individuals' olfactory capabilities, possibly subsequently altering the perception of test samples during sensory evaluation.

12.
Pediatr Dermatol ; 39(2): 320-321, 2022 Mar.
Article in English | MEDLINE | ID: mdl-35014095

ABSTRACT

Contact dermatitis usually presents as erythematous macules, papules, and vesicles. Sometimes, unusual clinical presentations of contact dermatitis are reported, including pustular, lymphomatoid, lichenoid, and pigmented variants. We describe the first patient with bullous irritant contact dermatitis caused by perfume, mimicking impetigo lesions. We report this case to raise awareness concerning the possibility of serious cutaneous reactions, such as bullous impetigo-like irritant contact dermatitis due to perfumes which are ubiquitous, especially after direct contact with the solution. Perfume ingredients, such as fragrance, solvents, and preservatives all may cause or contribute to irritant contact dermatitis.


Subject(s)
Dermatitis, Allergic Contact , Dermatitis, Contact , Dermatitis, Irritant , Impetigo , Perfume , Soft Tissue Injuries , Dermatitis, Allergic Contact/etiology , Dermatitis, Contact/etiology , Dermatitis, Irritant/diagnosis , Dermatitis, Irritant/drug therapy , Dermatitis, Irritant/etiology , Humans , Impetigo/diagnosis , Impetigo/drug therapy , Irritants
13.
Plants (Basel) ; 12(1)2022 Dec 20.
Article in English | MEDLINE | ID: mdl-36616146

ABSTRACT

Catasetum is a speciose Neotropical orchid genus of which male and female flowers emit scents acting both as attractant and reward for their exclusive pollinators, male orchid bees (Euglossini: Apidae). In Catasetum, it is well known that flowers display a remarkably morphological sexual dimorphism. However, it remains poorly investigated whether this is also true for floral scents. Here, we investigated the pollination ecology and floral scent traits (chemistry and total emission) of C. maranhense, a species endemic to the Brazilian N/NE region. Males of Euglossa securigera are the only pollinators of C. maranhense. The floral scent of C. maranhense is composed of 29 volatile compounds, with eucalyptol, indole, (E)-Methyl p-methoxycinnamate, and (Z)-Methyl p-methoxycinnamate accounting for more than 80% of the scent bouquet. No sexual dimorphism was detected in any of the traits investigated. We discuss the ecological and evolutionary significance of our findings to Catasetum species and other unisexual perfume plants.

14.
J Cosmet Dermatol ; 20(11): 3684-3688, 2021 Nov.
Article in English | MEDLINE | ID: mdl-34596939

ABSTRACT

INTRODUCTION: Perfumes are the cosmetics applied to the skin. Body odor has been shown to be attractive in the fertile days in non-user of contraception. However, contraception pill intake destroy cyclic attractiveness of odors. AIM: The aim was to test attractiveness and intensiveness of perfume applied to the female skin in course of menstrual cycle. MATERIAL AND METHODS: Diluted vanilla extract was applied on forearm of 18 women (9 women users of contraception and 9 non-users of contraception). Thirty minutes occlusion samples were collected and judged for its attractiveness and intensity by 25 men. Samples were collected at 1st, 8th, 14th, and 22nd day of cyclus. RESULTS: Attractiveness of smell of perfume in women, which use contraceptive was statistically significantly higher than in non-user. Furthermore, attractiveness of smell at 15th day of menstrual cycle was second best when perfume was applied in women, which use contraceptive. CONCLUSIONS: Perfume on the skin of women, which apply contraceptive, smell better than on non-contraceptive-user skin. Moreover, women body odor together with perfume is highly attractive in contraceptive-user in the middle of the cyclus.


Subject(s)
Perfume , Female , Humans , Male , Menstrual Cycle , Odorants , Perception , Smell
15.
Molecules ; 26(11)2021 May 22.
Article in English | MEDLINE | ID: mdl-34067262

ABSTRACT

In the last two decades, scientific methodologies for the prediction of the design, performance and classification of fragrance mixtures have been developed at the Laboratory of Separation and Reaction Engineering. This review intends to give an overview of such developments. It all started with the question: what do we smell? The Perfumery Ternary Diagram enables us to determine the dominant odor for each perfume composition. Evaporation and 1D diffusion model is analyzed based on vapor-liquid equilibrium and Fick's law for diffusion giving access to perfume performance parameters. The effect of matrix and skin is addressed and the trail of perfumes analyzed. Classification of perfumes with the perfumery radar is discussed. The methodology is extended to flavor and taste engineering. Finally, future research directions are suggested.


Subject(s)
Chemical Engineering/methods , Flavoring Agents/chemistry , Perfume/chemistry , Alkenes/chemistry , Diffusion , Glycerol/chemistry , Humans , Odorants , Psychophysics , Skin , Skin Cream/chemistry , Smell , Thermodynamics
16.
Front Chem ; 9: 679116, 2021.
Article in English | MEDLINE | ID: mdl-34109157

ABSTRACT

Two essential oils were isolated from discarded perfume lemon and leaves (Citrus limon (L.) Burm. F.) by hydro-distillation with good yield (0.044% for perfume lemon and 0.338% for leaves). Their biological activities were evaluated against five selected bacterial strains and Aedes albopictus (Ae. albopictus, Diptera: Culicidae). Chemical composition indicated that both essential oils were rich in essential phytochemicals including hydrocarbons, monoterpenes and sesquiterpene. These constituents revealed some variability among the oils displaying interesting chemotypes (R)-(+)-limonene (12.29-49.63%), citronellal (5.37-78.70%) and citronellol (2.98-7.18%). The biological assessments proved that the two essential oils had similar effect against bacterial (inhibition zones diameter ranging from 7.27 ± 0.06 to 10.37 ± 0.15 mm; MICs and MBCs ranging from 1.6 to 6.4 mg/mL); against Ae. albopictus larvae (LC50 ranging from 384.81 to 395.09 ppm) and adult mosquito (LD50 ranging from 133.059 to 218.962 µg/cm2); the activity of the two chemotypes ((R)-(+)-limonene and citronellal): larvae (LC50 ranging from 267.08 to 295.28 ppm), which were all presented in dose-dependent manners. Through this work, we have showcased that recycling and reusing of agriculture by-products, such as discarded perfume lemon and leaves can produce eco-friendly alternatives in bacterial disinfectants and mosquito control product.

17.
Int J Pharm ; 604: 120672, 2021 Jul 15.
Article in English | MEDLINE | ID: mdl-33961955

ABSTRACT

In this study, volatile perfume was encapsulated in microcapsules (MCs) via interpolyelectrolyte complexes (IPECs) of oppositely charged polymers, with high encapsulation efficiency, to be delivered in a sustained manner. Positively charged chitosan (CTS) and negatively charged Eudragit® S100 (ES100) were used as eco-friendly biopolymers. Limonene (LMN) was selected as the model perfume. First, the solution of LMN in ethyl acetate and poloxamer 407 (POX407) in acidic solution was emulsified using ultrasonication. CTS and ES100 were added in that particular order to form o/w emulsion. LMN-loaded microcapsules (LMN-MCs) were prepared by adjusting the pH and freeze-drying for solidification. The electrostatic interactions of CTS and ES100 to form IPECs were highly dependent on pH, changing in the microscopic images of emulsion droplets and zeta potential. The NH3+ group of CTS and the COO- group of ES100 caused the electrostatic interactions at a specific pH. The formation mechanism of LMN-MCs was successfully validated using instrumental analysis, charge density, and energy dispersive X-ray spectrometer (EDS) mapping. Encapsulation efficiency, loading content, and release rates of LMN-MCs varied according to the ratios of CTS and ES100, demonstrating optimal performance at a 1:1 ratio. The current LMN-MCs could provide a simple manufacturing process with high performance in terms of encapsulation efficiency (>94%), drug loading, yield and sustained release of volatile perfume for 120 h.


Subject(s)
Perfume , Polymers , Capsules , Delayed-Action Preparations , Hydrogen-Ion Concentration
18.
J Chromatogr A ; 1643: 462076, 2021 Apr 26.
Article in English | MEDLINE | ID: mdl-33789193

ABSTRACT

The present research is focused on the preliminary evaluation, in particular in relation to the advisable operational conditions, of a novel low duty cycle flow modulator. In such a respect, a fast comprehensive two-dimensional gas chromatography-mass spectrometry method is herein proposed. Applications on a C7-C30 series of alkanes, 64 fragrance allergens (plus 2 internal standards), and 5 perfumes, were carried out by using two different column sets, low-polarity + medium-polarity and low-polarity + low-polarity. In both cases, the first column was of dimensions 10 m × 0.25 mm ID × 0.25 µm df, while the second one was of dimensions 1 m × 0.10 mm ID × 0.10 µm df. A modulation period of 700 ms, with a re-injection period of 80 ms, was used in order to obtain a higher duty cycle (measured to be approx. 0.04). Absolute quantification of the allergens was carried out by using two internal standards, namely 1,4-dibromobenzene and 4,4'-dibromobiphenyl. In terms of limits of quantification the instrumental response was characterized by a wide variability, ranging between 9 ppb and 5.4 ppm for both column sets. A total number of 97 fragrance allergens were identified and quantified in five commercial perfumes.


Subject(s)
Allergens/analysis , Chromatography, Gas/methods , Perfume/chemistry , Alkanes/analysis , Alkanes/chemistry , Allergens/chemistry , Limit of Detection , Perfume/standards , Reference Standards , Spectrometry, Mass, Electrospray Ionization
19.
Curr Treat Options Allergy ; 8(1): 21-41, 2021.
Article in English | MEDLINE | ID: mdl-33520600

ABSTRACT

PURPOSE OF REVIEW: The main aims of fragrances are to create pleasing scents or to mask unpleasant odors. We hereby review their main exposure sources, presumed benefits, and unwanted effects, with special attention to allergic contact dermatitis (prevalence, regulatory environment, risk assessment methodology, and preventive measures). RECENT FINDINGS: Fragrances elicit positive emotions and presumably have therapeutic benefits related to stress reduction and memory enhancement. However, they also cause detrimental health or environmental effects including contact dermatitis (irritant and/or allergic), non-eczematous contact reactions, photosensitivity, photo-allergy, and immediate contact reactions, which can negatively impact the quality of life. Fragrances are the most frequent chemicals causing contact dermatitis. Their main sources are cosmetics, household products, industrial substances, food flavorings, oral hygiene products, and topical medications. It is difficult for sensitized patients to avoid contact with fragrances, due to their ubiquity and because manufacturers are not willing to volunteer information regarding fragrance ingredients. SUMMARY: The treatment of contact dermatitis relies on allergens avoidance which does not "cure" the disease (sensitization persists for life) but prevents disabling illness. The patient should understand that avoiding perfume means to avoid all scented goods and not just perfumes.Labeling fragrances is key in primary prevention (by giving the healthy individual the chance to make an informed choice to avoid risky substances), diagnosis (by helping the practitioner to plan and interpret patch tests), secondary prevention, and prognosis (by allowing the sensitized patient to follow the avoidance instructions). However, only 26 fragrances are mandatory to be declared in cosmetics. The vague labeling of other fragrance ingredients as "perfume" or "fragrance" hampers the diagnostic and preventive approaches. Therefore, in our opinion, declaration should be mandatory for all fragrance ingredients as well as straightforward so most consumers can understand it. Moreover, legislation should be improved to prevent inappropriately high exposures by forbidding stronger allergens, restricting maximum concentrations in the finished product or fields of application, delivering information regarding the risks to the general public, and controlling the compliance of manufacturers with the regulations. Besides, manufacturers should share information regarding the composition in the final products and provide physicians with samples of all fragrance chemicals whenever needed for patch test investigations.

20.
Int J Cosmet Sci ; 43(2): 225-234, 2021 Apr.
Article in English | MEDLINE | ID: mdl-33452685

ABSTRACT

OBJECTIVE: This study aims to correlate new experimental data relevant to the description of the combined evaporation/permeation process of a perfume applied onto the skin. METHODS: The vapour pressure data were measured by thermogravimetric analysis (TG-DTA). The Antoine constants and the Clarke and Glew parameters were determined for the same set of fragrance molecules to describe its low vapour pressures at new temperature ranges. The permeability coefficient of a set of 14 fragrance molecules in ethanolic solution was determined by Franz diffusion cell experiments, using porcine skin. The samples were analysed by gas chromatography with a flame ionization detector (GC/FID) and high-performance liquid chromatography with UV visible detector (HPLC/UV). A QSAR model was proposed to correlate the experimental data. RESULTS: The Antoine constants were determined and presented low standard deviations. The Clarke and Glew physically significant parameters were obtained along with its statistical analysis. The fitting is good since the magnitude order is in accordance with the literature, associated with the low correlation between the estimated parameters and low standard deviations. The presented correlation, based on a mixture using only ethanol as solvent, showed better results than previous QSAR models with a standard relative deviation ( σ r ) of 0.190, a standard error (SE) of 0.397 and a determination coefficient (R2 ) of 0.7786. CONCLUSION: The dataset is still small compared to larger and more general QSAR models; however, it is much more specific as to the type of solvent and class of materials studied. This work represents an advance for the modelling of the perfume diffusion process since it specifies important properties that until then had been treated in a more general way.


OBJECTIF: Cette étude vise à corréler de nouvelles données expérimentales pertinentes à la description du processus combiné d'évaporation/perméation d'un parfum appliqué sur la peau. MÉTHODES: Les données de pression de vapeur ont été mesurées par analyse thermogravimétrique (TG-DTA). Les constantes d'Antoine et les paramètres de Clarke & Glew ont été déterminés pour le même ensemble de molécules de parfum afin de décrire ses faibles pressions de vapeur à de nouvelles plages de température. Le coefficient de perméabilité d'un ensemble de 14 molécules de parfum en solution éthanolique a été déterminé par des expériences de cellules de diffusion de Franz, en utilisant de la peau de porc. Les échantillons ont été analysés par chromatographie en phase gazeuse avec un détecteur à ionisation de flamme (GC / FID) et chromatographie liquide haute performance avec détecteur UV visible (HPLC / UV). Un modèle QSAR a été proposé pour corréler les données expérimentales. RÉSULTATS: Les constantes d'Antoine ont été déterminées et ont présenté de faibles écarts types. Les paramètres physiquement significatifs de Clarke & Glew ont été obtenus avec son analyse statistique. L'ajustement est bon car l'ordre de grandeur est conforme à la littérature, associé à la faible corrélation entre les paramètres estimés et les faibles écarts types. La corrélation présentée, basée sur un mélange utilisant uniquement de l'éthanol comme solvant, a montré de meilleurs résultats que les modèles QSAR précédents avec un écart relatif standard (σr) de 0,190, une erreur standard (SE) de 0,397 et un coefficient de détermination (R2) de 0,7786. CONCLUSION: L'ensemble de données est encore petit par rapport aux modèles QSAR plus grands et plus généraux ; cependant, il est beaucoup plus spécifique quant au type de solvant et à la classe de matériaux étudiés. Ce travail représente une avancée pour la modélisation du processus de diffusion des parfums car il précise des propriétés importantes jusque-là traitées de manière plus générale.


Subject(s)
Odorants , Permeability , Gas Chromatography-Mass Spectrometry/methods , Thermogravimetry
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