Symposium review: The Mozzarella/pasta filata years: A tribute to David M. Barbano.

In the decades that followed the end of World War II, Mozzarella cheesemaking in the United States grew steadily as the pizza restaurant established an ever-expanding footprint across America and beyond. By the 1980s, Mozzarella cheesemaking had attained unprecedented scales of production, yet even as new cheese plants were coming on line across the country and production capacities were reaching extraordinary levels, the scientific and technological knowledge base needed to standardize production schedules, control product quality, and maximize cheese yields and efficiency lagged far behind industry needs. It was within this historical context that David Barbano turned his systematic and meticulous research program toward the needs of the Mozzarella cheese industry during the 1980s. By the early 1990s, Barbano was leading a team of graduate students, post-docs, technical staff, and collaborators in a systematic evaluation of every step in the Mozzarella cheesemaking process. The end product of these studies was nothing less than the transformation of what had been (to a large degree) a poorly understood "black box" process into a precisely controlled make procedure that lent itself to precision tailoring of cheese functionality, tight control over manufacturing schedules and efficiency, and maximization of cheese yields. Barbano's international collaborators included research scientists from Italy, where Mozzarella originated. Working with them, Barbano led a systematic evaluation of the scientific and technological aspects of Ragusano cheese, a traditional Protected Designation of Origin pasta filata cheese from Sicily. In the process, Barbano's team demonstrated a new approach to traditional artisanal practices that merged both the art and science of cheesemaking, in effect combining the best of both worlds, toward the goal of sustaining traditional cheesemakers and the working landscapes that they support. Throughout all of these studies, Barbano's research led to innovations in cheesemaking technology (such as improved salting methods, preacidification treatments, and strategies to improve low-fat Mozzarella functionality) that have revolutionized the Mozzarella industry worldwide.

A 100-Year Review: Cheese production and quality.

In the beginning, cheese making in the United States was all art, but embracing science and technology was necessary to make progress in producing a higher quality cheese. Traditional cheese making could not keep up with the demand for cheese, and the development of the factory system was necessary. Cheese quality suffered because of poor-quality milk, but 3 major innovations changed that: refrigeration, commercial starters, and the use of pasteurized milk for cheese making. Although by all accounts cold storage improved cheese quality, it was the improvement of milk quality, pasteurization of milk, and the use of reliable cultures for fermentation that had the biggest effect. Together with use of purified commercial cultures, pasteurization enabled cheese production to be conducted on a fixed time schedule. Fundamental research on the genetics of starter bacteria greatly increased the reliability of fermentation, which in turn made automation feasible. Demand for functionality, machinability, application in baking, and more emphasis on nutritional aspects (low fat and low sodium) of cheese took us back to the fundamental principles of cheese making and resulted in renewed vigor for scientific investigations into the chemical, microbiological, and enzymatic changes that occur during cheese making and ripening. As milk production increased, cheese factories needed to become more efficient. Membrane concentration and separation of milk offered a solution and greatly enhanced plant capacity. Full implementation of membrane processing and use of its full potential have yet to be achieved. Implementation of new technologies, the science of cheese making, and the development of further advances will require highly trained personnel at both the academic and industrial levels. This will be a great challenge to address and overcome.

Earliest evidence for cheese making in the sixth millennium BC in northern Europe.

The introduction of dairying was a critical step in early agriculture, with milk products being rapidly adopted as a major component of the diets of prehistoric farmers and pottery-using late hunter-gatherers. The processing of milk, particularly the production of cheese, would have been a critical development because it not only allowed the preservation of milk products in a non-perishable and transportable form, but also it made milk a more digestible commodity for early prehistoric farmers. The finding of abundant milk residues in pottery vessels from seventh millennium sites from north-western Anatolia provided the earliest evidence of milk processing, although the exact practice could not be explicitly defined. Notably, the discovery of potsherds pierced with small holes appear at early Neolithic sites in temperate Europe in the sixth millennium BC and have been interpreted typologically as 'cheese-strainers', although a direct association with milk processing has not yet been demonstrated. Organic residues preserved in pottery vessels have provided direct evidence for early milk use in the Neolithic period in the Near East and south-eastern Europe, north Africa, Denmark and the British Isles, based on the δ(13)C and Δ(13)C values of the major fatty acids in milk. Here we apply the same approach to investigate the function of sieves/strainer vessels, providing direct chemical evidence for their use in milk processing. The presence of abundant milk fat in these specialized vessels, comparable in form to modern cheese strainers, provides compelling evidence for the vessels having being used to separate fat-rich milk curds from the lactose-containing whey. This new evidence emphasizes the importance of pottery vessels in processing dairy products, particularly in the manufacture of reduced-lactose milk products among lactose-intolerant prehistoric farming communities.

Cheese cultures: transforming American tastes and traditions.

Although the history of cheesemaking in the United States tells largely a tale of industrialization, there is a submerged yet continuous history of small-batch, hands-on, artisan cheese manufacture. This tradition, carried on in artisan cheese factories across the country, although concentrated in Wisconsin, is often overlooked by a new generation of artisan cheesemakers. Continuities in fabrication methods shared by preindustrial and post-industrial artisan creameries have been obscured by changes in the organization and significance of artisan production over the last one hundred years. Making cheese by hand has morphed from chore to occupation to vocation; from economic trade to expressive endeavor; from a craft to an art. American artisan cheesemaking tradition was invented and reinvented as a tradition of innovation. Indeed, ideological commitment to innovation as modern, progressive, American­and thus a marketable value­further obscures continuities between past and present, artisan factories, and new farmstead production. The social disconnect between the current artisan movement and American's enduring cheesemaking tradition reproduces class hierarchies even as it reflects growing equity in gendered occupational opportunities.

Cheese mites and other delicacies: the introduction of test objects into microscopy.

In the 1820s, certain minute objects began to be used regularly as tests for microscopes. Scales of insects, animal hairs and tiny leaves served as convenient means to assess their optical performance. It was a peculiar conjunction of optics, astronomy and natural history that formed the intellectual background for the emergence of the tests; and their establishment was greatly facilitated by the culture of conversation and competition in which microscopical practice was embedded. The introduction of the tests soon gave rise to a peculiar and highly productive interaction: the application of test objects incited instrument makers to aspire after technical improvements. These pursuits led, in turn, to a differentiation and refinement of the tests themselves, which then again suggested specific kinds of improvements. Historians have paid only scant attention to these issues. But the early history of test objects deserves thorough investigation. In fact, it provides a key to the understanding of the intellectual and social contexts and the dynamics of microscopy in early 19th-century Britain.

Bacteria in two-millennia-old cheese, and related epizoonoses in Roman populations.

A tremendous volcanic eruption destroyed all the life around Mount Vesuvius during the night between 24 and 25 August, 79 AD. Two famous towns, Pompeii and Herculaneum, were completely buried under volcanic products. At Herculaneum, about 25m of volcanic mud killed about 250 people who had fled to the beaches in an attempt to escape (Bisel, S. C.,Rivista di Studi Pompeiani, 1, 123-124, 1987). An anthropological examination of the skeletons of these "fugitives" reveals the bone lesions typical of brucellosis in 17.4% of adults (Capasso, L., International Journal of Osteoarchaelogy, 9, 277-288, 1999). This very high incidence of brucellosis was theoretically linked to the consumption of ovine milk and its derivates, which is also indicated by both literary and figurative sources. A single carbonized cheese was found in Herculaneum; its analysis clearly reveals the excellent state of preservation of the milk curds. For the first time, we demonstrate the presence of a variety of bacteria, possibly Lactobacillus, that also includes cocco-like forms that seem to be morphologically and dimensionally consistent with Brucella. The long interval spent by the organic remains under the volcanic mud and high temperatures they suffered preclude the possibility of identifying the bacteria through molecular methods.