Green electrospun Janus membrane of polyether block amide (PEBA) doped with hierarchical magnesium hydrogen phosphate for the removal of pharmaceuticals and personal care products.

It has been a challenge to prepared polyether block amide (PEBA) fibrous membrane via solution electrospinning. The only few reported methods though involved hazardous solvents and surfactants which were against the principle of green chemistry. In this work, uniform fibrous membrane of PEBA was successfully fabricated by solution electrospinning with a bio-based solvent dihydrolevoglucosenone (Cyrene). To further improve the mechanical strength and adsorption performance of the PEBA membrane, a hierarchical magnesium hydrogen phosphate (MgHPO4·1.2H2O, MHP) was synthesized to blend evenly into the PEBA matrix. A Janus MHP/PEBA membrane with one side of hydrophobic surface and the other side of hydrophilic surface was subsequently prepared, which exhibited fast adsorption, high capacity, good selectivity and reusability towards ibuprofen, acetaminophen, carbamazepine and triclosan. In addition, the Janus membrane showed high removal efficiency of the above contaminants in secondary wastewater effluent with good long term stability. It demonstrated that this Janus MHP/PEBA membrane had a good potential in practical wastewater treatment.

An Overview to the Health Benefits of Seaweeds Consumption.

Currently, seaweeds are gaining major attention due to the benefits they give to our health. Recent studies demonstrate the high nutritional value of seaweeds and the powerful properties that seaweeds' bioactive compounds provide. Species of class Phaeophyceae, phylum Rhodophyta and Chlorophyta possess unique compounds with several properties that are potential allies of our health, which make them valuable compounds to be involved in biotechnological applications. In this review, the health benefits given by consumption of seaweeds as whole food or by assumption of bioactive compounds trough natural drugs are highlighted. The use of seaweeds in agriculture is also highlighted, as they assure soils and crops free from chemicals; thus, it is advantageous for our health. The addition of seaweed extracts in food, nutraceutical, pharmaceutical and industrial companies will enhance the production and consumption/usage of seaweed-based products. Therefore, there is the need to implement the research on seaweeds, with the aim to identify more bioactive compounds, which may assure benefits to human and animal health.

Poly- and Oligosaccharide Ulva sp. Fractions from Enzyme-Assisted Extraction Modulate the Metabolism of Extracellular Matrix in Human Skin Fibroblasts: Potential in Anti-Aging Dermo-Cosmetic Applications.

Ulva sp. is known to be a source of bioactive compounds such as ulvans, but their biological activity on human dermal fibroblast extracellular matrix (ECM) is poorly reported. In this work, the regulation of ECM has been investigated for the first time at both proteomic and transcriptomic levels in normal human skin dermal fibroblasts, after 48 h of incubation with poly- and oligosaccharide fractions from Ulva sp. obtained after enzyme-assisted extraction and depolymerization. Cell proliferation enhancement (up to +68%) without exhibiting any cytotoxic effect on fibroblasts was demonstrated at 50 and 1000 µg/mL by both fractions. At the proteomic level, polysaccharide fractions at 1000 µg/mL enhanced the most the synthesis of glycosaminoglycans (GAGs, up to +57%), total collagen, especially types I (up to +217%) and III, as well as the synthesis and activity of MMP-1 (Matrix Metalloproteinase-1, up to +309%). In contrast, oligosaccharide fractions had no effect on GAGs synthesis but exhibited similarities for collagens and MMP-1 regulation. At the transcriptomic level, the decrease of COL1A1 and COL1A2 expression, and increase of COL3A1 and MMP-1 expression, confirmed the modulation of ECM metabolism by both fractions. Our research emphasizes that poly- and oligosaccharide Ulva sp. fractions exhibit interesting biological activities and supports their potential use in the area of skin renewal for anti-aging dermo-cosmetic applications.

Rosa platyacantha Schrenk from Kazakhstan-Natural Source of Bioactive Compounds with Cosmetic Significance.

Plants belonging to the Rosa genus are known for their high content of bioactive molecules and broad spectrum of healing and cosmetic activities. Rosa platyacantha Schrenk is a wild-type species abundant in the mountainous regions of Kazakhstan. The phytochemical composition as well as the bioactivity of R. platyacantha extracts have not been fully investigated to date. In this study, various parts of R.platyacantha plant, collected in Almaty region, Kazakhstan, were used to prepare five hydroalcoholic extracts (R1-R5). The extracts were compared for the content of phytochemicals and selected biological activities, which are important for the potential cosmetic application of R. platyacantha. Extract R3, prepared from flower buds, showed the most significant antioxidant and tyrosinase inhibitory potential, decreasing the monophenolase and diphenolase activities of tyrosinase. Extract R3 showed also collagenase inhibitory activity and cytotoxicity against human melanoma cells A375, being less cytotoxic for noncancerous skin keratinocytes HaCaT. Analysis of fractions E and F, obtained from R3 extracts, revealed that quercetin, kaempferol, rutin, and their derivatives are more likely responsible for the tyrosinase inhibitory properties of R. platyacantha extracts.

The Cosmetic Potential of The Medicinal Halophyte Tamarix Gallica L. (Tamaricaceae) Growing in The Eastern Part of Algeria: Photoprotective and Antioxidant Activities.

AIM AND OBJECTIVE: Currently, the use of ingredients from natural sources has gained great attention in the cosmetic field, especially for the development of new photoprotective formulations. Therefore, the present study aimed to evaluate the cosmetic potential of the crude methanol extract and the ethyl acetate fraction of the medicinal halophyte Tamarix gallica L. (Tg) growing in the area of Tebessa in the eastern part of Algeria, by assessing their phenolic and flavonoid contents, photoprotective and antioxidant activities. METHODS: The research approach consisted of determining phenolic and flavonoid contents of aerial parts via Folin-Ciocalteu and aluminum chloride methods, respectively. The antioxidant activity was measured through two in vitro methods, DPPH radical scavenging activity and total antioxidant capacity test (TAC). The in vitro photoprotective effect was evaluated according to the parameter SPF (Sun Protection Factor) by using the UV spectroscopic method in the UV-B region (290-320 nm). RESULTS: The methanol extract (Tg-MeOH) and ethyl acetate (Tg-EtOAc) fraction showed good antioxidant activity with IC50 values of 14.05±0.66, 27.58±1.98 µg/mL respectively in the DPPH test. Furthermore, both extracts displayed strong total antioxidant capacity (287.01±7.85, 246.7±1.12 mg AAE/g, respectively) in the TAC test. Both extracts exhibited high photoprotective activity, with sun protection factor (SPF) values 37.03±0.22 and 36.08±0.03. The antioxidant and photoprotective activities of these extracts were probably related to polyphenols content (190.27±0.74 mg AGE /g and 121.77±1.29 mg AGE /g, respectively) and flavonoids (78.75±0.06 mg QE /g and 58.67±1.19mg/g). CONCLUSION: Our findings show that extracts of Tamarix gallica L. could be a promising source to be mixed as a natural sunscreen and antioxidant agents into photoprotective cosmetic formulations.

Saponin fraction from Sapindus mukorossi Gaertn as a novel cosmetic additive: Extraction, biological evaluation, analysis of anti-acne mechanism and toxicity prediction.

ETHNOPHARMACOLOGICAL RELEVANCE: Sapindus mukorossi Gaertn. (S. mukorossi), known as 'mu huan zi' in Chinese folklore, belongs to the family Sapindaceae and it has been traditionally used for treating coughing and excessive salivation, removing freckle, whitening skin, etc. Evidence-based medicine also verified the antimicrobial, anti-tyrosinase and anti-acne activity of S. mukorossi extract, suggesting that it has the potential to be a pharmaceutical and cosmetic additive. AIM OF THE STUDY: The present study was intended to evaluate the freckle-removing and skin-whitening activities of S. mukorossi extracts, and further analyzing the potential anti-acne mechanism. METHODS: Saponin fractions were purified by using the semi-preparative high-performance liquid chromatography, and their antibacterial activity was detected against Propionibacterium acnes (P. acnes), which was the leading cause of inflamed lesions in acne vulgaris. The anti-lipase and anti-tyrosinase activities were assayed using a commercial kit, while the potential anti-acne mechanism was predicted on the basis of the network pharmacology. Active components of saponin fraction were identified by HPLC-MS analysis. Furthermore, the different toxicity level of compounds was predicted according to the quantitative structure-activity relationship, and the first application of crude extract and saponin fraction to facial masks was analyzed based on the comprehensive evaluation method. RESULTS: The saponin fraction (F4) purified from the fermentation liquid-based water extract (SWF) showed the best antibacterial activity against P. acnes ATCC 6919 with the MIC of 0.06 mg/mL, which was 33-fold of its parent SWF (with the MIC of 2.0 mg/mL). Compared with SWF, the application of F4 caused greater inhibition rates on lipase and tyrosinase. Chemical constituents of F4 were evaluated, from which four oleanane-type triterpenoid saponins were detected to contribute to the above biological activities of F4. The mechanism of the four compounds on anti-acne was predicted, and seven targets such as PTGS2 and F2RL1 were obtained to be important for the treatment of acne. The four compounds were also predicted to have different levels of toxicity to various species, and they were not harmful to rats. Besides, F4 and SWF were applied to facial masks and there was no significant influence on the physicochemical properties including pH, stability, and sensory characteristics. CONCLUSION: This work demonstrated that oleanane-type triterpenoid saponins were speculated to contribute to the skin-whitening, freckle-removing, and anti-acne activities of F4. These findings will facilitate the development of the S. mukorossi extract and the allied products as the new and natural anti-acne agent and cosmetic additives.

Exploitation of Filamentous and Picoplanktonic Cyanobacteria for Cosmetic Applications: Potential to Improve Skin Structure and Preserve Dermal Matrix Components.

The use of natural products in skin care formulations gained interest as a concern for modern societies. The undesirable side effects of synthetic COMPOUNDS, as well as the associated environmental hazards, have driven investigation on photosynthetic organisms as sustainable sources of effective and environmentally friendly ingredients. The use of natural extracts in cosmetics has been highlighted and, along with plants and algae, cyanobacteria have come into focus. Due to their low culture demands, high grow rates and ability to produce a wide variability of bioactive metabolites, cyanobacteria emerged as an economic and sustainable base for the cosmetic industry. In this study, we evaluated the potential of ethanol extracts of picocyanobacteria strains of the genera Cyanobium and Synechocystis and filamentous strains of the genera Nodosilinea, Phormidium and Tychonema for skin applications, with focus in the field of anti-aging. The extracts were analyzed for their pigment profile, phenolic content, antioxidant potential, cytotoxicity against keratinocytes (HaCat), fibroblasts (3T3L1), endothelial cells (hCMEC/D3) and capacity to inhibit hyaluronidase (HAase). The total carotenoid content ranged from 118.69 to 383.89 µg g-1 of dry biomass, and the total phenolic content from 1.07 to 2.45 mg GAE g-1. Identified carotenoids consisted of zeaxanthin, lutein, canthaxanthin, echinenone and ß-carotene, with zeaxanthin and lutein being the most representative (49.82 and 79.08 µg g-1, respectively). The highest antioxidant potential was found for Phormidium sp. LEGE 05292 and Tychonema sp. LEGE 07196 for superoxide anion radical (O2•-) scavenging (IC50 of 822.70 and 924 µg mL-1, respectively). Low or no cytotoxicity was registered. Regarding HAase inhibition, Tychonema sp. LEGE 07196 and Cyanobium sp. LEGE 07175 showed the best IC50 (182.74 and 208.36 µg mL-1, respectively). In addition, an increase in fibroblast proliferation was registered with these same strains. From this work, the ethanol extracts of the species Tychonema sp. and Cyanobium sp. are particularly interesting for their potential application in anti-aging formulations, once they stimulated fibroblast proliferation and inhibit hyaluronic acid digestion.

Phycocosmetics and Other Marine Cosmetics, Specific Cosmetics Formulated Using Marine Resources.

Marine resources exist in vast numbers and show enormous diversity. As a result, there are likely many possible applications for marine molecules of interest in the cosmetic industry, whether as excipients or additives, but especially as active substances. It is possible to obtain extracts from active substances; for example, quite a few algae species can be used in moisturizing or anti-ageing products. In the field of topical photoprotection, mycosporine-like amino acids and gadusol are important lines of enquiry that should not be overlooked. In the field of additives, the demonstration that certain seaweed (algae) extracts have antimicrobial properties suggests that they could provide alternatives to currently authorized preservatives. These promising leads must be explored, but it should be kept in mind that it is a long process to bring ingredients to market that are both effective and safe to use.

The improvement on the skin surface by a new type of dermocosmetic loaded plant extract: A split face skin topographic study.

Various extrinsic and intrinsic origins slant skins and pledge evident vicissitudes of the skin surface. We explored the effects of dermocosmetic loaded medical Cannabis seed extract and evaluate the improvement on the skin surface in Asian and male volunteers in a split face topographic study. Dermocosmetic and base (without extract) fabricated were directed to apply by volunteers (Asian male) on their right and left cheek, respectively, in the split face skin topographic study up to three months. Efficacy of dermocosmetic versus base was assessed by non- invasive diagnostic technique focusing on skin texture parameters (energy, contrast and variance) and surface evaluation of the living skin (SELS), SEr (skin roughness), SEsc (skin scaliness), SEsm (skin smoothness), SEw (skin wrinkles). Unlike base, dermocosmetic showed significant effects on skin texture parameters (energy, variance and contrast) and SELS (SEr, SEsc, SEsm and SEw) parameters in Asian male volunteers when ANOVA applied. The level of significance was 5%. Dermocosmetic ultimately improved on skin surface and advocacies for anti-aging effects on skin appearance.

Prediction of adsorption capacity for pharmaceuticals, personal care products and endocrine disrupting chemicals onto various adsorbent materials.

Adsorption is a common process used to remove pharmaceuticals, personal care products and endocrine disrupting chemicals (PPCPs/EDCs) from water. However, as PPCPs/EDCs cover a wide range of molecules and chemical structures, prediction of the adsorption capacity is very challenging. In this study, a novel model was developed to predict adsorption isotherms of PPCPs/EDCs onto various types of adsorbents using a combination of Polanyi potential theory, molecular connectivity indices (MCIs) and molecular characteristics. Polanyi theory provided the basic mathematical form for the correlation. MCIs, hydrophobicity and H-bond count were used to normalize the Polanyi equation based on the molecular structure and interactions among the chemicals, the adsorbents, and the solution. In total, adsorption data were collected from 158 reports for 55 PPCPs/EDCs onto 306 different adsorbent materials. The correlation was first trained with 46 PPCPs/EDCs adsorbed onto 162 carbonaceous adsorbents (CAs), with 44.8% SDEV. Then the model was employed to predict 46 PPCPs/EDCs onto 118 other CAs and 9 new PPCPs/EDCs onto 23 CAs in ultrapure water, with error from 42 to 48% SDEV. When applying to non-carbonaceous adsorbents, the models can still predict the adsorption of PPCPs/EDCs with 90.09% SDEV. For the first time, a model, the PD - MCI - hydrophobic - H bond model, was developed to predict adsorption of a wide group of complicated PPCPs/EDCs onto a big variety of carbonaceous and non-carbonaceous adsorbents. The proposed model approach may provide a simple means for predicting adsorption capacities of PPCPs/EDCs onto various adsorbents.

Oral and dermal toxicity of alkenones extracted from Isochrysis species.

Isochrysis is commercially available marine algae used for animal feed, human nutrient supplements, and biodiesel. The Isochrysis species is one of five genera of haptophytes that produces unique, long-chain lipids known as alkenones that are promising new ingredients for green cosmetics, personal care products and pharmaceutical delivery. However, there is a lack of toxicity data for alkenones in animals, thus limiting their use in humans. In this study, we performed acute oral, acute dermal, and repeated 28-day dermal toxicity studies, using female SAS Sprague Dawley Rats. Our behavioral studies indicated that the specific alkenones had no overt behavioural effects at oral doses up to 4000 mg/kg. In the acute and chronic dermal toxicity studies, the alkenones produced less irritation and did not significantly damage the skin based on the Draize skin reaction scale and trans-epidermal water loss readings compared to the positive control, 1% sodium lauryl sulfate. Overall, our results indicated that alkenones are safe in Sprague Dawley rats, suggesting that they could be used for both oral and dermal formulations, although additional studies will be required.

Unravelling property of polysaccharides from Sargassum sp. as an anti-wrinkle and skin whitening property.

In recent years, the natural ingredients are in high demand in formulating the cosmetic products. Seaweed polysaccharides signify the attractive natural ingredient with a wide range of functional properties that are expected for cosmeceutical formulations. The present work aimed to study the skin protection ability of polysaccharides extracted from Sargassum vachellianum (SvP), Sargassum horneri (ShoP) and Sargassum hemiphyllum (SheP). The extracted crude polysaccharides were characterized by HPLC and FTIR, which revealed that the polysaccharides are fucose-containing sulfated polysaccharides. Skin whitening and anti-wrinkling activity were analyzed by the ability to inhibit tyrosinase and elastase. The results revealed that the ShoP showed maximum tyrosinase inhibition (64.72 ±â€¯0.46%) and SvP exhibited considerable elastase inhibition (30.12 ±â€¯0.33%). The maximum moisture absorption (79.7 ±â€¯0.62%) and retention (68.99 ±â€¯0.64%) ability were observed in ShoP. The antioxidant activity was estimated by DPPH, superoxide radical scavenging, reducing power and total antioxidant activity. All the tested polysaccharides showed antioxidant activity in a dose-dependent manner, among them ShoP exhibited maximum total antioxidant (80.93 ±â€¯0.17%) and superoxide radical scavenging activity (67.4 ±â€¯0.42%) whereas SheP showed maximum DPPH radical scavenging activity (74.56 ±â€¯0.10%). Therefore, the present study indicates the potential of polysaccharides, ShoP, SvP and SheP as a promising cosmetic ingredient in cosmeceuticals.

Synthesized carbon nanodots for simultaneous extraction of personal care products and organophosphorus pesticides in wastewater samples prior to LC-MS/MS determination.

A simple, rapid and efficient solid-phase extraction method based on synthesized carbon nanodots was developed for the preconcentration and extraction of personal care products and organophosphorus pesticides in environmental matrices. Factorial (screening) and central composite designs were employed for the optimization of experimental conditions that could potentially influence the percentage recoveries of the target analytes. The experimental variables, including sample pH, mass of adsorbent, eluent volume and sample volume, were examined. Under the optimized conditions, the developed method was validated, and acceptable analytical results obtained showed good performance. The method accuracy carried out at two spiking levels (10 and 100 µg L-1) in different sample matrices ranged between 63 and 120%. The method precision based on relative standard deviation (% RSD) was < 10%. The linear range studied had a determination coefficient of (R2 > 0.995). The limits of detection (LOD) and limit of quantification (LOQ) established varied between 0.015-0.125 and 0.05-0.415 µg L-1 ,respectively. The ensuing method was applied successfully in the determination of the five multi-class organic compounds under study, in influent and effluent wastewater matrices, sampled from a municipal wastewater treatment plant located in Pretoria, South Africa.

Simultaneous analysis of multiclass contaminants of emerging concern in sediments by liquid chromatography with tandem quadrupole mass spectrometry.

A quick, easy, cheap, effective, rugged, and safe (QuEChERS)-based extraction and simultaneous dispersive solid-phase extraction (dSPE) clean-up method was developed for contaminants of emerging concern (CECs) in sediment samples. Hydration with a phosphate buffer (pH 2.0) and salting out with NaCl and MgSO4 facilitated the extraction and liquid-liquid portioning of the aqueous and organic phases. Cleanup of the extracts was achieved by florisil and C18 (1:1) sorbents in dSPE with minimal compromise of the analytes. The extracts were clean enough for determination by liquid chromatography-tandem mass spectrometry (LC-MS/MS). The procedure was validated for preservatives, blood lipid regulators, analgesics and anti-inflammatory drugs, plasticizers, and other classes of CECs in sediment matrix spiked at 6 levels between 1- and 40-fold concentrations for CECs of varying analytical sensitivities. The recovery values were generally between approximately 27 and 120% and the relative standard deviation (%RSD) values were below 20% at 10- , 20- , and 40-fold spiking levels, albeit the recoveries for some analytes dropped at low spike concentrations. The method showed high sensitivity where the method detection limits (MDLs) were at low ppb levels for the majority of the analytes that ranged between 0.002 and 1.93 µg/kg. The method performance was also compared with well-established US Environmental Protection Agency (USEPA) Method 1694 by analyzing sediment samples collected from Yundang Lagoon (Xiamen, China) with field-incurred CEC residues. The sediment samples were detected with residues of parabens, gemfibrozil, ketoprofen, naproxen, fenoprofen, diclofenac, miconazole, carbamazepine, benzophenon-3, glibenclamide, sildinafil citrate, and some bisphenol analogues. Environ Toxicol Chem 2019;38:1409-1422. © 2019 SETAC.

Electrospraying of environmentally sustainable alginate microbeads for cosmetic additives.

Polymer microbeads (MBs) for scrubbing additives have generally been prepared from non-biodegradable synthetic polymers. The worldwide pollution of the marine ecosystem by microplastics urgently demands novel environment-friendly MBs. In this study, Ca-alginate MBs were fabricated by electrospraying an aqueous alginate solution into distilled water containing calcium ions. The size and shape of the Ca-alginate MBs were controlled by electrospraying parameters, such as nozzle diameter and solution concentration. As the alginate concentration and needle diameter were increased, the size of alginate MBs was gradually increased, because of the higher mass flow rate. In addition, the adsorption and degradation behavior of alginate MBs were examined using model contaminants and sea water, respectively. In particular, alginate MBs rapidly degraded in sea water, due to the reversible ion-exchange reaction between Ca2+ in MBs and Na+ in sea water. Therefore, the electrosprayed Ca-alginate MBs offer a promising alternative for environment-friendly cosmetic additives.

Composite Material that Comprised Metal-Organic Nanotubes and a Sponge as a High-Performance Adsorbent for the Extraction of Pharmaceuticals and Personal Care Products from Environmental Water Samples.

A composite material that comprised metal-organic nanotubes (MONTs) and a sponge, Cu-MONTs-sponge, was synthesized by using a rapid and convenient surfactant-assisted dip-coating method and used as a high-performance adsorbent for the solid-phase extraction of pharmaceuticals and personal care products (PPCP) from environmental water samples. By adjusting the surfactant concentration, a composite material that contained metal-organic nanotubes and a macroporous 3D porous sponge was constructed. This modified sponge achieved outstanding reproducibility as an adsorbent, with the adsorption of trace or ultratrace amounts of contaminants. Moreover, this composite material was conveniently recycled and its extraction efficiency only decreased by 6.3-12.1 % after 30 adsorption/desorption cycles. The resulting composite exhibited excellent adsorption capacity for PPCPs, which was attributed to its unique porous structure, natural hydrophobicity, and electrostatic interactions between the metal-organic nanotubes and analyte molecules. This Cu-MONTs-sponge material is an ideal adsorbent for the extraction of trace amounts of PPCPs from environmental water samples.

Exploring potential new galactomannan source of Retama reatam seeds for food, cosmetic and pharmaceuticals: Characterization and physical, emulsifying and antidiabetic properties.

In this study, physicochemical, interfacial and emulsifying properties of Retama reatam and guar galactomannans were comparatively investigated. The results showed that Retama reatam galactomannan is mainly composed of total carbohydrates (95.52%) and lower protein contents (0.87%). The sugars identified were mannose (Man) and galactose (Gal), with a Man:Gal ratio of 1.85 compared to guar gum (1.83). The results of thermal properties indicated were transition temperature (Tg) and melting temperature (Tm) very similar to those of the guar gum. Moreover, results also revealed that there is no significant difference in terms of equilibrium interfacial tension of Retama reatam gum at 10 and 20°C. Moreover, preliminary tests show that stable oil-in-water nanoemulsions may be formulated using Retama reatam gum. Therefore, measurement of mean oil droplet diameter d after heating at 80°C, shows that stable nanoemulsions may be formulated using Retama reatam galactomannan. Further in vivo experiments confirmed that Retama reatam gum can reduce the glycemic index of starchy foods and inhibit the surge of postprandial blood glucose level.

A novel microbial technique for producing high-quality sophorolipids from horse oil suitable for cosmetic applications.

Horse oil contains linoleic, palmitoleic and unsaturated fatty acids that are similar to those in human skin, and may therefore be an ideal substance from which to isolate biosurfactants for cosmetic products to improve human skin quality. Herein, an innovative approach was developed to synthesise sophorolipids from horse oil by hydrolysis, followed by fermentation using the yeast Candida bombicola. The yield of sophorolipids from direct fermentation of horse oil and hydrolysed horse oil was 40.6 ± 1.3 g l-1 and 58.4 ± 1.8 g l-1 respectively. To further increase the yield, 30-40 g l-1 glucose was added in a fed-batch fermentation process to maintain the pH between 4.0 and 4.5, resulting in a conversion yield of 71.7 ± 0.8 g l-1 . The purity and structure of the synthesised sophorolipids were analysed by ultra-performance liquid chromatography-mass spectrometry and nuclear magnetic resonance. An in vitro human dermal fibroblast model was used as a surrogate for human skin to measure elastase inhibition activity. Antiwrinkle properties of isolated sophorolipids were better than those of horse oil or hydrolysed horse oil in several in vitro assays. Furthermore, no cytotoxicity was observed at a concentration of 50 µg ml-1 , and wound-healing capacity was evident in a cell culture model. Additionally, the synthesised sophorolipids attenuated lipopolysaccharide-induced expression of inflammatory cytokines in macrophages, and efficiently inhibited several strains of bacteria and yeast. In conclusion, fed-batch fermentation of hydrolysed horse oil is a novel and efficient approach for producing high-quality and high-yield sophorolipids that exhibit great potential as cosmetic ingredients.

[Mechanisms and Efficiencies of Removal of PPCPs by Pilot River Water Bypass Treatment Process].

The pharmaceuticals and personal care products (PPCPs) released into urban rivers are triggering certain ecological risks. The current study investigated the removal efficiencies of 30 frequently detected PPCPs by two river water bypass treatment processes (CS-BAF-UF-Ozone and CS-MBR-Ozone), and investigated the removal mechanism and eco-toxicological risk variation of target compounds via section-removal investigation and risk quotient model, respectively. Results indicated that both processes could efficiently remove the target PPCPs; the removal rates of tetracyclines and caffeine were>90% in the biological sections, while sulfonamides, fluoroquinolones, and other pharmaceuticals could only be efficiently removed when the COD of the influent and the water temperature were comparatively higher; the ozone process had particular effect on removing these compounds. The cumulative removal rate of all PPCPs during the whole process was higher than 92.5%. The total risk quotient (RQtot) of target PPCPs could be efficiently reduced by the bypass treatment processes; the RQtot decreased from 12.6 in the influent river water to 0.2 in the ozone effluent, with a removal rate of 98.4%.

Cosmetic and Skincare Benefits of Cultivated Mycelia from the Chinese Caterpillar Mushroom, Ophiocordyceps sinensis (Ascomycetes).

Mushrooms are potential sources of novel natural cosmeceutical ingredients. This study was conducted to evaluate the cosmetic (skincare) benefits of the valuable medicinal species Ophiocordyceps sinensis (=Cordyceps sinensis). The mycelial extracts of 2 O. sinensis strains, Cs-HK1 and Cs-4, prepared sequentially with ethyl acetate, ethanol, and hot water were tested with in vitro assays for tyrosinase-, collagenase-, and elastase-inhibitory activity. The ethyl acetate extracts of both fungal strains showed potent antityrosinase and antielastase activity, with low half-maximal inhibitory concentrations (0.14-0.47 mg/mL) comparable to those of the respective reference compounds (arbutin and epigallocatechin gallate). All mycelial extracts exhibited moderate or significant anticollagenase activity; most extracts showed a significant photoprotective effect with a sun protection factor up to 25. The results from this study show the potential use of O. sinensis as a source of cosmetic ingredients for skincare applications.