Cognitive-behavioural processes during route previewing in bouldering.

INTRODUCTION: In the Olympic climbing discipline of bouldering, climbers can preview boulders before actually climbing them. Whilst such pre-climbing route previewing is considered as central to subsequent climbing performance, research on cognitive-behavioural processes during the preparatory phase in the modality of bouldering is lacking. The present study aimed at extending existing findings on neural efficiency processes associated with advanced skill level during motor activity preparation by examining cognitive-behavioural processes during the previewing of boulders. METHODS: Intermediate (n = 20), advanced (n = 20), and elite (n = 20) climbers were asked to preview first, and then attempt two boulders of different difficulty levels (boulder 1: advanced difficulty; boulder 2: elite difficulty). During previewing, climbers' gaze behaviour was gathered using a portable eye-tracker. RESULTS: Linear regression revealed for both boulders a significant relation between participants' skill levels and both preview duration and number of scans during previewing. Elite climbers more commonly used a superficial scan path than advanced and intermediate climbers. In the more difficult boulder, both elite and advanced climbers showed longer preview durations, performed more scans, and applied less often a superficial scan path than in the easier boulder. CONCLUSION: Findings revealed that cognitive-behavioural processes during route previewing are associated with climbing expertise and boulder difficulty. Superior domain-specific cognitive proficiency seems to account for the expertise-processing-paradigm in boulder previewing, contributing to faster and more conscious acquisition of perceptual cues, more efficient visual search strategies, and better identification of representative patterns among experts.

A retrospective analysis of mission reports in the national Swedish Police Registry on mountain rescue 2018-2022: here be snowmobiles.

BACKGROUND: Increasing mountain activity and decreasing participant preparedness, as well as climate change, suggest needs to tailor mountain rescue. In Sweden, previous medical research of these services are lacking. The aim of the study is to describe Swedish mountain rescue missions as a basis for future studies, public education, resource allocation, and rescuer training. METHODS: Retrospective analysis of all mission reports in the national Swedish Police Registry on Mountain Rescue 2018-2022 (n = 1543). Outcome measures were frequencies and characteristics of missions, casualties, fatalities, traumatic injuries, medical conditions, and incident mechanisms. RESULTS: Jämtland county had the highest proportion of missions (38%), followed by Norrbotten county (36%). 2% of missions involved ≥ 4 casualties, and 44% involved ≥ 4 mountain rescuers. Helicopter use was recorded in 59% of missions. Non-Swedish citizens were rescued in 12% of missions. 37% of casualties were females. 14% of casualties were ≥ 66 or ≤ 12 years of age. Of a total 39 fatalities, cardiac event (n = 14) was the most frequent cause of death, followed by trauma (n = 10) and drowning (n = 8). There was one avalanche fatality. 8 fatalities were related to snowmobiling, and of the total 1543 missions, 309 (20%) were addressing snowmobiling incidents. Of non-fatal casualties, 431 involved a medical condition, of which 90 (21%) suffered hypothermia and 73 (17%) cardiovascular illness. CONCLUSIONS: These baseline data suggest snowmobiling, cardiac events, drownings, multi-casualty incidents, and backcountry internal medicine merit future study and intervention.

Risk of Cardiac Arrhythmias Among Climbers on Mount Everest.

Importance: Arterial hypoxemia, electrolyte imbalances, and periodic breathing increase the vulnerability to cardiac arrhythmia at altitude. Objective: To explore the incidence of tachyarrhythmias and bradyarrhythmias in healthy individuals at high altitudes. Design, Setting, and Participants: This prospective cohort study involved healthy individuals at altitude (8849 m) on Mount Everest, Nepal. Recruitment occurred from January 25 to May 9, 2023, and data analysis took place from June to July 2023. Exposure: All study participants underwent 12-lead electrocardiogram, transthoracic echocardiography, and exercise stress testing before and ambulatory rhythm recording both before and during the expedition. Main Outcome: The incidence of a composite of supraventricular (>30 seconds) and ventricular (>3 beats) tachyarrhythmia and bradyarrhythmia (sinoatrial arrest, second- or third-degree atrioventricular block). Results: Of the 41 individuals recruited, 100% were male, and the mean (SD) age was 33.6 (8.9) years. On baseline investigations, there were no signs of exertional ischemia, wall motion abnormality, or cardiac arrhythmia in any of the participants. Among 34 individuals reaching basecamp at 5300 m, 32 participants climbed to 7900 m or higher, and 14 reached the summit of Mount Everest. A total of 45 primary end point-relevant events were recorded in 13 individuals (38.2%). Forty-three bradyarrhythmic events were documented in 13 individuals (38.2%) and 2 ventricular tachycardias in 2 individuals (5.9%). Nine arrhythmias (20%) in 5 participants occurred when climbers were using supplemental bottled oxygen, whereas 36 events (80%) in 11 participants occurred at lower altitudes when no supplemental bottled oxygen was used. The proportion of individuals with arrhythmia remained stable across levels of increasing altitude, while event rates per 24 hours numerically increased between 5300 m (0.16 per 24 hours) and 7300 m (0.37 per 24 hours) before decreasing again at higher altitudes, where supplemental oxygen was used. None of the study participants reported dizziness or syncope. Conclusion and Relevance: In this study, more than 1 in 3 healthy individuals experienced cardiac arrhythmia during the climb of Mount Everest, thereby confirming the association between exposure to high altitude and incidence of cardiac arrhythmia. Future studies should explore the potential implications of these rhythm disturbances.

Climbing anxiety scale (CAS-20): Preliminary development and validation.

Anxiety has been the primary focus of emotion research in sport psychology. Most of the existing anxiety measures focus on the competition related anxiety. Little is known about the way in which anxiety affects athletic outcomes in extreme sports. We contribute to the literature on anxiety in extreme sports by: (1) developing and providing a preliminary validation for a novel, theoretically anchored sport climbing inventory, Climbing Anxiety Scale (CAS-20), among an international sample of rock-climbers (N = 153); and (2) providing preliminary evidence on its factorial and criterion-related validity. Our investigation includes two phases. The first phase (6 clinical and sport psychology experts) included the development and expert review of a climbing specific anxiety scale. The second phase (N = 153) offers preliminary evidence pertaining to the measure's reliability, factorial, convergent and criterion related validity. Factorial validity was investigated by deploying a series of confirmatory factorial analyses. Convergent and discriminatory validity were examined by comparing the scale's associations with a general anxiety measure, a sport anxiety measure, as well as climbing self-efficacy. Criterion-related validity was estimated by examining its relationship with rock-climbing performance. We contribute to the general domain of sport and athletic research by developing a sport-specific anxiety measure, investigating whether and how anxiety comes into play in rock-climbing, a high-risk sport. This scale can be used for assessing anxiety in climbing and monitoring the impact of an interventions designed to reduce these symptoms.

Exome sequencing in extreme altitude mountaineers identifies pathogenic variants in RTEL1 and COL6A1 previously associated with respiratory failure.

Adaptation of humans to challenging environmental conditions, such as extreme temperature, malnutrition, or hypoxia, is an interesting phenomenon for both basic and applied research. Identification of the genetic factors contributing to human adaptation to these conditions enhances our understanding of the underlying molecular and physiological mechanisms. In our study, we analyzed the exomes of 22 high altitude mountaineers to uncover genetic variants contributing to hypoxic adaptation. To our surprise, we identified two putative loss-of-function variants, rs1385101139 in RTEL1 and rs1002726737 in COL6A1 in two extremely high altitude (personal record of more than 8500 m) professional climbers. Both variants can be interpreted as pathogenic according to medical geneticists' guidelines, and are linked to inherited conditions involving respiratory failure (late-onset pulmonary fibrosis and severe Ullrich muscular dystrophy for rs1385101139 and rs1002726737, respectively). Our results suggest that a loss of gene function may act as an important factor of human adaptation, which is corroborated by previous reports in other human subjects.

Mapping Risk Judgment and Risk Taking in Mountain Hiking: An Information Integration Approach.

Risk analysis is essential for promoting hiking-based tourism. Our objective in the present study was to map 395 mountain hikers' positions on risk judgment and risk taking, according to how they integrated three antecedent factors of confidence (environment, team, and self). For integrating information, people can develop an additive rule whereby they apply the same weight to all information or use interaction rules (i.e., conjunctive or disjunctive), to give different weights to information. In the questionnaire our participants completed, there were eight scenarios that combined the three confidence antecedent factors as information cues. We applied cluster analysis, repeated-measures analyses of variance, chi-square tests, and bivariate correlation analyses to the questionnaire results to identify three participant risk positions. In the first risk position (cluster 1), participants used a disjunctive integration rule for both risk judgment and risk taking. In the second risk position (Clusters 2 and 4), they used an additive integration rule for risk judgment while they used a disjunctive integration rule for risk taking. In the third risk position (cluster 3), they used an additive integration rule for both risk judgment and risk taking. In each risk position, confidence in the three antecedent factors (environment, team, and self) negatively affected risk judgment and positively affected risk taking. We found the compositions of the clusters to be related to the participants' sex, and we discuss various advantages of applying information integration for mountain hiking practitioners and promoters.

Delaying Suspension Syndrome Onset in Aerially Suspended Victims Through Leg Raising.

INTRODUCTION: Suspension syndrome (SS) develops when venous blood pools in extremities of passively suspended individuals, resulting in presyncopal symptoms and potential unconsciousness or death independent of additional injuries. We investigated use of leg raising to delay onset of SS, as it can decrease venous pooling and increase cardiac return and systemic perfusion. METHODS: Participants were suspended in rock climbing harnesses at an indoor climbing wall in a legs-dangling control position or a legs-raised interventional position to compare physiological outcomes between groups. Participants were suspended for a maximum of 45 min. Onset of 2 or more symptoms of SS, such as vertigo, lightheadedness, or nausea, halted suspension immediately. We recorded each participant's heart rate, blood pressure, oxygen saturation, lower leg oxygen saturation, pain rating, and presyncope scores presuspension, midsuspension, and postsuspension, as well as total time suspended. RESULTS: There were 24 participants. There was a significant difference in total time suspended between groups (43.05±6.7 min vs 33.35±9.02 min, p=0.007). There was a significant difference in heart rate between groups overall (p=0.012), and between groups, specifically at the midsuspension time interval (80±11 bpm vs 100±17 bpm, p=0.003). Pain rating was significantly different between groups (p=0.05). Differences in blood pressure, oxygen saturation, lower leg oxygen saturation, and presyncope scores were not significant. CONCLUSION: Leg raising lengthened the time individuals tolerated passive suspension and delayed symptom onset.

Nutritional physiology and body composition changes during a rapid ascent to high altitude.

Exposure to high altitude might cause the body to adapt with negative energy and fluid balance that compromise body composition and physical performance. In this field study involving 12 healthy adults, sex-balanced, and aged 29 ± 4 years with a body mass index of 21.6 ± 1.8 kg/m2, we investigated the effects of a 4-day trekking up to 4556 m a.s.l. on Monte Rosa (Alps, Italy). The food intake was recorded using food diaries and nutrient averages were calculated. The bio-impedance analysis was performed at low and high altitudes, and a wearable biosensor (Swemax) was used to track hydro-saline losses in two participants. Daily total energy intake was 3348 ± 386 kcal for males and 2804 ± 415 kcal for females (13%-14% protein, 35% fat, 44%-46% carbohydrates). Although there was a significant body weight loss (65.0 ± 9.3 vs. 64.2 ± 9.10 kg, p < 0.001, d = 1.398), no significant changes in body composition parameter were found but a trend in the increase of the bioelectrical phase angle in males (p = 0.059, d = -0.991). Body water percentage significantly changed (p = 0.026, η2 p = 0.440), but the absolute water did not, suggesting that the weight loss was not due to water loss. Salivary and urinary osmolality did not change. A reduction in sweat rate at higher altitudes was observed in both participants. Interestingly, salivary leptin increased (p = 0.014, η2 p = 0.510), and salivary ghrelin decreased (p = 0.036, η2 p  = 0.403). Therefore, the 4-day trekking at altitude of hypoxia exposure induced changes in satiety and appetite hormones. High altitude expeditions require more specific nutritional guidance, and using multiplex analysis could help in monitoring fluid balance and body composition.

Validity and Reliability of Finger-Strength Testing in 6 Common Grip Techniques for the Assessment of Bouldering Ability in Men.

OBJECTIVE: To determine the criterion validity and test-retest reliability of isometric finger-strength testing in 6 differentiated grip techniques for the assessment of bouldering ability among male climbers. METHODS: We recruited participants at climbing gyms in Sweden and through online advertisements. We included climbers over 15 years of age with a minimum bouldering performance level of 17 International Rock Climbing and Research Association (IRCRA) for men and 15 IRCRA for women. We tested unilateral, maximal isometric peak finger strength in the front 3 drag, half crimp, closed crimp, 35 sloper, 45 × 90-mm, and 90 × 90-mm pinch through maximal force deloaded of a force plate. We analyzed criterion validity, test-retest reliability, and capacity to determine bouldering performance ability using a stepwise multivariable regression model. RESULTS: Women were excluded from the analysis due to insufficient sample size (n = 16). Thirty-two male participants were included in the primary analysis. The median (interquartile range) age in the advanced and elite group was 27 (25; 35) and 23 (22; 32) years, respectively. The half crimp for the participants' weak and strong hand displayed the highest ability to determine bouldering grade performance, explaining 48% to 58% of the variance. In the stepwise regression, maximal strength in the half crimp and the front 3 drag collectively explained 66% of the variance for performance. CONCLUSION: Strength in the half crimp proved the most important performance indicator. The results of this study provide a reliable and valid framework for maximal isometric peak finger-strength testing in advanced and elite male boulderers.

Analysis of Sprint Ski Mountaineering Performance.

Ski mountaineering sprint competitions are short individual races involving 3 uphill sections (U), 3 transitions (T), and a final descent. To date, relatively little is known about this novel Olympic discipline, and here we examined (1) the contribution of the time spent on U, T, and final descent to overall finishing time and (2) the potential relationships with final ranking. During the different rounds of 2 International Ski Mountaineering Federation World Cup sprint competitions, male and female ski mountaineers were video recorded. Correlation and multiple linear regression analyses were used to investigate the impact of U, T, and final descent on the best overall finishing time. Linear-mixed model analysis was applied to explore potential interactions between section times, rounds, and final ranking. Overall, U (r = .90-.97) and T (r = .57-.89) were closely correlated with the best overall finishing time (all P < .05). U explained approximately 80% to 90% of the variation in the best finishing time for both sexes, with U + T explaining approximately 95% to 98% of this variation. In each successive round, the ski mountaineers eliminated were all slower on U than the Top 3 (all P < .05). The fastest skiers increased their performance on U in the later rounds of the competitions, while those eliminated showed a tendency toward a decrease. Our findings reveal that world-class sprint ski mountaineers conduct transitions optimally and perform effectively uphill. Training for such competitions should aim to improve short supramaximal uphill performance (∼1.5-2.5 min), ensuring that this does not decline with multiple efforts. These insights into ski mountaineering sprint performance are of considerable value in connection with training for the 2026 Winter Olympics.

Retinal Vascular Changes in Response to Hypoxia: A High-Altitude Expedition Study.

Westwood, Jessica, India Mayhook-Walker, Ciaran Simpkins, Andrew Darby-Smith, Dan Morris, and Eduardo Normando. Retinal vascular changes in response to hypoxia: a high-altitude expedition study. High Alt Med Biol. 25:49-59, 2024. Background: Increased tortuosity and engorgement of retinal vasculature are recognized physiological responses to hypoxia. This can lead to high-altitude retinopathy (HAR), but incidence reports are highly variable, and our understanding of the etiological mechanisms remains incomplete. This study quantitatively evaluated retinal vascular changes during an expedition to 4,167 m. Methods: Ten healthy participants summited Mount Toubkal, Morocco. Fundus images were taken predeparture, daily throughout the expedition, and 1 month postreturn. Diameter and tortuosity of four vessels were assessed, in addition to vessel density and features of HAR. Results: Significant (p ≤ 0.05) increases in tortuosity and diameter were observed in several vessels on high-altitude exposure days. There was a strong correlation between altitude and supratemporal retinal artery diameter on days 2, 3, and 6 of the expedition (r = 0.7707, 0.7951, 0.7401, respectively; p < 0.05). There was a significant increase in median vessel density from 6.7% at baseline to 10.0% on summit day. Notably there were no incidences of HAR. Conclusion: Physiological but not pathological changes were seen in this cohort, which gives insight into the state of the cerebral vasculature throughout this expedition. These results are likely attributable to relatively low altitude exposure, a conservative ascent profile, and the cohort's demographic. Future study must include daily retinal images at higher altitudes and take steps to mitigate environmental confounders. This study is relevant to altitude tourists, patients with diabetic retinopathy or retinal vein occlusion, and critically ill patients.

Simulations of the human heat balance during Mount Everest summit attempts in spring and winter.

The majority of research dealing with the impacts of the Himalayan climate on human physiology focuses on low air temperature, high wind speed, and low air pressure and oxygen content, potentially leading to hypothermia and hypoxia. Only a few studies describe the influence of the weather conditions in the Himalayas on the body's ability to maintain thermal balance. The aim of the present research is to trace the heat exchange between humans and their surroundings during a typical, 6-day summit attempt of Mount Everest in the spring and winter seasons. Additionally, an emergency night outdoors without tent protection is considered. Daily variation of the heat balance components were calculated by the MENEX_HA model using meteorological data collected at automatic weather stations installed during a National Geographic expedition in 2019-2020. The data represent the hourly values of the measured meteorological parameters. The research shows that in spite of extreme environmental conditions in the sub-summit zone of Mount Everest during the spring weather window, it is possible to keep heat equilibrium of the climbers' body. This can be achieved by the use of appropriate clothing and by regulating activity level. In winter, extreme environmental conditions in the sub-summit zone make it impossible to maintain heat equilibrium and lead to hypothermia. The emergency night in the sub-peak zone leads to gradual cooling of the body which in winter can cause severe hypothermia of the climber's body. At altitudes < 7000 m, climbers should consider using clothing that allows variation of insulation and active regulation of their fit around the body.

Comparison of finger flexion strength and muscular recovery of male lead sport climbers across climbing classes.

BACKGROUND/OBJECTIVE: The purpose of this study was to compare finger flexor strength (FS), finger flexor muscle recovery (FR), and forearm circumference (FC) across three different climbing classes in male lead sport climbers. METHODS: A total of 37 male lead sport climbers were classified into low (LC), intermediate (IC), and advanced classes (AC) categories according to the International Rock Climbing Research Association (IRCRA) Scale. All participants measured FS three times for both open grip (OG) and crimp grip (CG). Following FS measurement, the FR was observed immediately after the all-out training. The FC was measured twice using an inelastic tape. RESULTS: The FS differed significantly across climbing classes for both grip styles and hands, regardless of dominant hand, with the higher classes showing greater FS (all, p ≤ 0.001). FR was significantly higher in AC compared to IC and LC at 5 min (all, p ≤ 0.001), 10 min (all, p ≤ 0.005) and 15 min (all, p ≤ 0.005). The FC showed significant differences with climbing classes for both forearms. CONCLUSION: Climbing classes are associated with differences in FS, with higher class corresponding to greater FS. Similarly, climbing classes are linked to FR and FC, with higher classes being associated with faster recovery and larger FC.

Suspension syndrome: a scoping review and recommendations from the International Commission for Mountain Emergency Medicine (ICAR MEDCOM).

BACKGROUND: Suspension syndrome describes a multifactorial cardio-circulatory collapse during passive hanging on a rope or in a harness system in a vertical or near-vertical position. The pathophysiology is still debated controversially. AIMS: The International Commission for Mountain Emergency Medicine (ICAR MedCom) performed a scoping review to identify all articles with original epidemiological and medical data to understand the pathophysiology of suspension syndrome and develop updated recommendations for the definition, prevention, and management of suspension syndrome. METHODS: A literature search was performed in PubMed, Embase, Web of Science and the Cochrane library. The bibliographies of the eligible articles for this review were additionally screened. RESULTS: The online literature search yielded 210 articles, scanning of the references yielded another 30 articles. Finally, 23 articles were included into this work. CONCLUSIONS: Suspension Syndrome is a rare entity. A neurocardiogenic reflex may lead to bradycardia, arterial hypotension, loss of consciousness and cardiac arrest. Concomitant causes, such as pain from being suspended, traumatic injuries and accidental hypothermia may contribute to the development of the Suspension Syndrome. Preventive factors include using a well-fitting sit harness, which does not cause discomfort while being suspended, and activating the muscle pump of the legs. Expediting help to extricate the suspended person is key. In a peri-arrest situation, the person should be positioned supine and standard advanced life support should be initiated immediately. Reversible causes of cardiac arrest caused or aggravated by suspension syndrome, e.g., hyperkalaemia, pulmonary embolism, hypoxia, and hypothermia, should be considered. In the hospital, blood and further exams should assess organ injuries caused by suspension syndrome.

Challenges in the management of high-altitude illnesses and emergencies in Bhutan and Nepal.

Many popular tourist attractions and trekking routes in Bhutan and Nepal are situated between 3000 and 6000 m in elevation. High-altitude emergencies are becoming more common and medical providers must be aware of the practical and medical issues in managing these disorders. We reflect on the challenges in providing high-altitude emergency medical services in Bhutan and Nepal.

Women's Health at High Altitude: An Introduction to a 7-Part Series by the International Climbing and Mountaineering Federation Medical Commission.

Horakova, Lenka, Peter Paal, Jacqueline Pichler Hefti, Marija Andjelkovic, Beth A. Beidleman, Mia Derstine, David Hillebrandt, Dominique Jean, Kaste Mateikaite-Pipiriene, Alison J. Rosier, Susi Kriemler, and Linda E. Keyes. Women's health at high altitude: An introduction to a 7-part series by the International Climbing and Mountaineering Federation Medical Commission. High Alt Med Biol. 24:243-246, 2023. Background: Women have been traveling to high altitude since the inception of modern mountaineering. Although there are distinct female-specific features such as menstruation and menopause relevant to adaptation to and performance at high altitude, very little data exist on women's high-altitude health. To summarize what is known to date, the Medical Commission of the International Climbing and Mountaineering Federation (UIAA) has created a series of articles on women's health, high altitude illness, and performance at high altitude. Methods: Assembling an international author team, two types of manuscripts were developed: (1) reviews on female-specific topics such as pregnancy; (2) reviews on sex differences in high-altitude related illnesses, nutrition, cold injuries, and mortality. Results: The literature search yielded 7,165 articles, with 482 studies meeting the inclusion criteria for full-text review. The authors of individual chapters reviewed these articles and performed additional hand searches. Conclusions: Some important questions on women sojourning and exercising at high altitude have been studied, but many are still awaiting a qualified and evidence-based response. Our seven reviews, to be published in future issues of this journal, summarize what is known about lowland women sojourning at high altitude, provide recommendations, and highlight knowledge gaps in high altitude women's medicine.