Deposition of plant lipids after single application of a lip care product determined by confocal raman spectroscopy, corneometry and transepidermal water-loss.

OBJECTIVE: Lip treatment products often incorporate oils and waxes in their formulations, and a desired outcome of their use is to prevent lip dryness and roughness as well as help to repair this condition. The objective of this study was to combine confocal Raman spectroscopy with skin capacitance (corneometry) and transepidermal water loss (closed chamber Aquaflux system) measurements, in the evaluation of the degree of moisturization and lip skin penetration of a fruit wax (Rhus vernicula peel cera) and natural oil-based (Cocos nucifera fruit oil and Olea europea oil) lip care product, following a single application. METHODS: The study was conducted on a total of 15 healthy female volunteers. Instrumental measurements were performed before and 30 min, 2 h and 6 h after a single application of the product. RESULTS: Lip skin barrier function as well as lip hydration were significantly improved and penetration of olive oil was maintained for at least 6 h post product application. The deposition of the three component lipids (berry fruit wax, coconut oil and olive oil) into the stratum corneum after a single application of the lip care product was maintained and data significant for 2-6 h post product application. Lipid deposition was regarded as a positive long-lasting skin care (depot-) effect combined with a profound hydrating effect for about 6 h. CONCLUSION: The tri-method approach taken in this study is deemed relevant and valid for measuring lip hydration offering a complimentary assessment of the barrier function of lip skin and interactive effects of cosmetic ingredients.

OBJECTIFS: Les formulations des produits de soins des lèvres contiennent souvent des huiles et des cires. En outre, la prévention, voire la réparation de la sécheresse et de la rugosité des lèvres font partie des résultats attendus de l'utilisation de ces produits. Cette étude avait pour objectif d'associer une spectroscopie confocale Raman à des mesures de la capacitance de la peau (cornéométrie) et de la perte d'eau transépidermique (système à chambre fermée Aquaflux), dans l'évaluation du niveau d'hydratation et de pénétration cutanées des lèvres d'une cire à base de fruits (cire d'écorce de Vernis du Japon) et d'un produit de soins des lèvres à base d'huiles naturelles (huile de coco et huile d'olive), après une seule application. MÉTHODES: Au total, l'étude a été menée auprès de 15 volontaires en bonne santé de sexe féminin. Des mesures instrumentales ont été réalisées avant, puis 30 minutes, 2 heures et 6 heures après une seule application du produit. RÉSULTATS: Une amélioration significative de la fonction barrière et de l'hydratation de la peau des lèvres a été observée, et la pénétration cutanée de l'huile d'olive est demeurée stable pendant au moins 6 heures après l'application du produit. Le dépôt des trois lipides entrant dans sa composition (la cire de baies, l'huile de coco et l'huile d'olive) dans la couche cornée s'est prolongé pendant 2 à 6 heures après une seule application du produit de soins des lèvres, présentant ainsi un intérêt significatif pour le recueil de données. Les résultats concernant le dépôt lipidique ont décrit un effet positif et durable dans le soin de la peau associé à une hydratation intense pendant environ 6 heures. CONCLUSION: L'approche à trois méthodes adoptée dans le cadre de cette étude pour mesurer l'hydratation des lèvres est jugée pertinente et valable, car elle offre une évaluation complémentaire de la fonction barrière de la peau des lèvres et des effets interactifs des ingrédients entrant dans la composition des cosmétiques.

Observer-blind randomized controlled study of a cosmetic blend of safflower, olive and other plant oils in the improvement of scar and striae appearance.

OBJECTIVE: The normal process of skin tissue repair following injury invariably results in visual scarring. It is known that topical treatment with hydrophobic cosmetics rich in silicone and mineral oil content can improve the appearance of scars and striae. Given lifestyle preferences of many cosmetic consumers towards so-called natural treatments, the objective of this controlled randomized study was to investigate the efficacy of a plant body oil rich in oleic and linoleic acids (Bio Skin Oil® ) for improving the appearance of scars and striae. METHODS: A panel of 80 volunteers with non-hypertrophic scars (40) or stretch marks (40) not older than 3 years applied a cosmetic face and body oil for 8 weeks. Compared to an untreated scar/stretch mark region, a blinded investigator as well as volunteer assessments with given observed parameters demonstrated the efficacy of the oil under test. RESULTS: On the Observer Scar Assessment Scale (OSAS), the mean score was reduced on the product-treated area by approximately 5% (P = 0.006). The untreated area remained unchanged. Observed effects by volunteers were more pronounced - Patient Scar Assessment Scale (PSAS) giving a reduction of approximately 20% on the treated area, and on the control untreated area a reduction of approximately 6%. The overall product effect of 14% was shown to be clearly significant (P = 0.001). All statements relating to product traits achieved higher frequencies of agreements than of non-agreements and were therefore assessed positively by the volunteers. Highest frequencies of agreements occurred in statements that the test product provides a long-lasting, soft and supple skin feeling (93%); caring effect (87%); and quick absorbance (84%). Agreement was also found for statements that the product improves the skin appearance (61%) and that scars/striae appear less pronounced (51%). Only 17% of volunteers felt the oil had no benefit to the appearance of their scars/striae. CONCLUSIONS: The oil blend under test is effective in improving the appearance of non-keloid scars and striae. Further work is required to understand the mechanisms of how plant oil fatty acids ameliorate scar and striae appearance.

A plant oil-containing pH 4 emulsion improves epidermal barrier structure and enhances ceramide levels in aged skin.

OBJECTIVE: Xerosis is a serious problem among the very old. It is a dermatological challenge caused by significant alterations in stratum corneum (SC) function and structure. Two negative changes in aged skin are (i) the enhanced skin surface pH and (ii) the altered SC lipid content, composition and ordering. METHODS: Therefore, we investigated the way in which an acidic skin care product with different plant oils affects SC function, structure and lipid profile in older subjects with dry skin. Before and after a 3-week application period, different biophysical measurements were performed: transepidermal water loss, SC hydration and skin surface pH. In addition, the SC lipid matrix was evaluated by analysis of the intercellular lipid lamellae and the SC lipid profile. RESULTS: After treatment, a significant increase in lipid lamellae in the intercellular space of the SC was observed in the area treated with the test product compared to the untreated area. Furthermore, the ceramide level was found to be increased, although ceramides were not provided by the acidic test formulation. CONCLUSION: In summary, topical application of a pH 4.0 product containing plant oils improves epidermal barrier formation and SC lipid ordering and ratio in aged dry skin.