Particle trajectories and size sorting above a rippled bed under standing water waves.

Particle trajectories and size sorting above an artificial rippled bed under standing surface waves are experimentally and theoretically studied. It is observed that fine particles may be trapped in a very thin region near the ripple crests. When the surface waves damp, fine particles concentrate on the top of ripple crests forming narrow strips, while coarse particles settle more uniformly along the rippled bed. Measurements of particle concentrations before their deposition confirm this size segregation. The present experimental results are explained with a theoretical approach.

Dynamics of propagating front into sand ripples under regular waves.

The results of an experimental study of pattern formation on sandy bottom under the action of regular harmonic surface waves are reported. It is found that two modes of pattern formation occur: sand ripples form uniformly on the whole bottom or from localized nucleation sites. In the second regime, the ripples appear in isolated regions (patches) increasing in size, and front propagation speed is measured. A simple dynamical model based on the Ginzburg-Landau equation is proposed to explain the characteristics of patches.

Segregation of sedimenting grains of different densities in an oscillating velocity field of strongly nonlinear surface waves.

This paper reports the results of an experimental and theoretical study of the segregation of heavy (sand) and light [polyvinyl chloride (PVC)] grains under the action of intense nonlinear water waves, solitons. The tests are carried out with initially carefully mixed grains at the bottom of a wave flume used in resonant mode. Ripples form on the bed and the segregation process is considered after the stopping of the wave paddle. The waves are damped and the PVC grains concentrate in a narrow region close to the ripple crest. A theoretical model explaining this grain density segregation is developed.