Alternative evaluation method in vitro for the water-resistant effect of sunscreen products.

BACKGROUND/PURPOSE: Sunscreen products today represent a trend of providing not only simple sun protection factor (SPF)/protection of UVA (PFA) but also other additional benefits. For example, as popularized by seasonless use of sunscreens, the special function of water resistance or sand proof is added to sunscreens as well as for leisure. Because a human in vivo test is time consuming and expensive, a screening process has been tried using an accurate in vitro system. In this study, we suggest the development of an in vitro test that can predict the result of in vivo water resistance of sunscreens. METHODS: Water resistance is presented as a comparison of initial SPF and water-exposed SPF by immersion and washing. In order to be comparable with the in vivo test, water immersion and flow were defined as the basic statements. Also, substrate, revolutions per minute (r.p.m.)--rotative velocity--of propeller inducing water flow, and time of immersion were defined as controlled factors. Considering the strength, separation of test material and adhesive texture, a PMMA plate was selected as suitable among commercial substrates: Transpore tape, VITRO SKIN, and PMMA plate. Also, when the PMMA plate was adhered on the wall of a water bath, the water turbulence of the rotational propeller alone was not strong enough to wash off the test material from the substrate. Therefore, PMMA plates were fixed on the axis. In this experiment, the most important thing is whether this in vitro system can predict correctly. Hence, we tried to match the in vitro water resistance following from our control factors and water resistance value of the in vivo test. RESULTS: We found the immersion time and r.p.m. of controlled factors to obtain the target water resistance using design of experiment, MiniTab statistical package. Response optimization yielded the optimal in vitro conditions of 150 r.p.m./60 min. The repeatability and reproducibility of this in vitro system were also good in validation studies. CONCLUSIONS: This study enables to modify an in vivo water resistance test and predict the result of in vivo water resistance by the manufacture of effective equipment and choosing a suitable substrate. Compared with in vivo results, our in vitro system is more time and cost effective, and provides reliable results.

Correlation between a Cutometer and quantitative evaluation using Moire topography in age-related skin elasticity.

BACKGROUND/PURPOSE: As aging occurs, our skin gets more wrinkles, becomes drier and loses its elasticity. Validating the evaluation of skin elasticity is especially important, because it is not as visible as other signs of aging such as wrinkles. So it is needed that the method for measuring skin elasticity is able to reflect perception about the change of the skin state. METHODS: Here, the correlation between age and the parameters given by a Cutometer is identified and the main parameters that reflect the decreases in skin elasticity in terms of ages are presented. Also, Moire's system, an evaluation method to quantify the sensory value of viewing, is developed. A five-grade standard of Moire topographic photo scale on the face is used to evaluate the state of skin elasticity and lifting 20- to 61-year-old women. Based on this photo standard, scoring is performed using a five-grade system by three specialists to obtain the consensus score. The score is compared with the result of a Cutometer. RESULTS: Significant negative correlations between age and results of a Cutometer (r=-0.687-0.725), Moire's topography scores (r=-938), were found. Some Cutometer parameters and the decreases in skin elasticity in terms of ages were highly correlated (r=-0.687-0.725). The results from Moire system and flexibility as sensory evaluation also had a very high correlation with age (r=-0.765-0.932). Finally, we have shown the significance of the correlation between the result of a Cutometer and the score of Moire topography (r=0.711). CONCLUSIONS: It is considered that Cutometer parameters R7 and R2 are used as main parameters to assess skin elasticity and aging. And our studies using Moire topography on the face have confirmed that instrumental measurements reflect the decrease in skin elasticity, which is perceived visually.

Enantioseparation of chiral aromatic amino acids by capillary electrophoresis in neutral and charged cyclodextrin selector modes.

Simultaneous enantioseparations of 15 racemic aromatic amino acids and L-mimosine for their chiral discrimination were achieved by neutral selector-modified capillary electrophoresis (CE) and by charged selector-modified CE. Among the diverse cyclodextrins (CDs) examined, hydroxypropyl (HP)-alpha-CD as the neutral selector and highly sulfated (HS)-gamma-CD as the charged selector provided best chiral environments of different enantioselectivities. Fairly good enantiomeric resolutions were achieved with the HP-alpha-CD mode except for racemic 6-hydroxy-3,4-dihydroxyphenylalanine, threo-3,4-dihydroxyphenylserine and homophenylalanine while high-resolution separations of all the enantiomeric pairs were achieved in the HS-gamma-CD mode except that L-mimosine was not detected and a partial resolution (0.6) for threo-3,4-dihydroxyphenylserine enantiomers. Relative migration times to that of internal standard under the respective optimum conditions were characteristic of each enantiomer with good precision (% RSD: 0.7-3.8), thereby enabling to cross-check the chemical identification of aromatic amino acids and also their chiralities. The method linearity was found to be adequate (r> 0.99) for the chiral assay of the aromatic amino acids investigated. When applied to extracts of three plant seeds, nonprotein amino acids such as L-mimosine (42 nug/g) from Mimosa pudica Linné, and L-3,4-dihydroxyphenylalanine (268 nug/g) from Vicia faba were positively detected along with L-tryptophan, L-phenylalanine and L-tyrosine.